or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - Page 20

post #571 of 814
This is a great sub.



I've made some improvements to it.

First, the Exodus woofer has a fairly high RE, which means that car audio guys won't be able to deliver all the power that their amps are designed to deliver (since car amps generally deliver most of their power into 2ohm loads.)

Second, the version I've made could be a good option for someone that wants to use this sub at home, but wants to run it off a stereo amp.

My version of the sub costs an additional fifteen dollars, and puts out about 2dB more. It also uses a woofer which is readily available at Crutchfield, Sonic Electronix, heck I think you can get it over the counter at Best Buy. My version may also appeal to folks overseas, as the driver I opted for is very common.

Enjoy!

http://forum.audiopsychosis.com/view...?f=3&t=61#p353
post #572 of 814
Built 4 from the cut sheet with my Dad's help! We used the tang band from PE when they were on sale and we're very happy with the results! Thanks lilmike and radman! The minidsp works great, too. I'm temporarily powering these with an Outlaw Audio amp. Still need to sand and finish them, but don't want to disconnect. About $200 into the enclosures (w/speakers). Awesome!
LL
post #573 of 814
First of all i would like to say these look amazing!! I found this from a link posted on a HTGuide thread this week! Im amazed i hadnt seen it before!

So i was wondering a few things, hopefully someone can help me out. Im building myself speakers for my HT, i have the statement monitors as mains and statement center. what do you guys think of think of adding a couple of these subs with the statements? or maybe 4. Would they match well? ive never had a sub other than a HTIB and dont know if i would need more powerful sub to keep up with the statements.

Second question. I have never built a TL, TH, so i was wondering about the angled folds. How precise do they have to be? How would i go about them? i read that you dont have to worry about it if you use PL, but i was planning on using regular wood glue so i have no idea how to go about it. Any tips to a beginner like me?

i would have ordered the flat packs but i live in Brazil so i will have to build my own.

Last question. I already have a Bash 300 laying around. Would it be able to push 4 of these on its own? Has anyone tried this?

Thanks in advance!! Any help is appreciated!
post #574 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by zephyrtear View Post

First of all i would like to say these look amazing!! I found this from a link posted on a HTGuide thread this week! Im amazed i hadnt seen it before!

So i was wondering a few things, hopefully someone can help me out. Im building myself speakers for my HT, i have the statement monitors as mains and statement center. what do you guys think of think of adding a couple of these subs with the statements? or maybe 4. Would they match well? ive never had a sub other than a HTIB and dont know if i would need more powerful sub to keep up with the statements.

Second question. I have never built a TL, TH, so i was wondering about the angled folds. How precise do they have to be? How would i go about them? i read that you dont have to worry about it if you use PL, but i was planning on using regular wood glue so i have no idea how to go about it. Any tips to a beginner like me?

i would have ordered the flat packs but i live in Brazil so i will have to build my own.

Last question. I already have a Bash 300 laying around. Would it be able to push 4 of these on its own? Has anyone tried this?

Thanks in advance!! Any help is appreciated!

Accuracy counts. The closer you keep things to what I modeled, the more likely it is that you get what I modeled as a result. There is no need for miter cuts though - all the angles are small and PL will fill any gaps if the cuts are square and accurate.

I recommend 4 for HT use.

Please use PL. Air leaks kill the performance of these. PL minimizes that chance.

Assembly is not too bad. I'll be doing a set of instructions for a similar tapped horn (T-6) that is a bit larger in the next few weeks. It will be a step-by-step, just like the F-20 instructions.

The 300-watt BASH is a fine amp fit for 4, wire them in series-parallel. The amp will see an 8-ohm load, but it won't mind.
post #575 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Accuracy counts. The closer you keep things to what I modeled, the more likely it is that you get what I modeled as a result. There is no need for miter cuts though - all the angles are small and PL will fill any gaps if the cuts are square and accurate.

I recommend 4 for HT use.

Please use PL. Air leaks kill the performance of these. PL minimizes that chance.

Assembly is not too bad. I'll be doing a set of instructions for a similar tapped horn (T-6) that is a bit larger in the next few weeks. It will be a step-by-step, just like the F-20 instructions.

The 300-watt BASH is a fine amp fit for 4, wire them in series-parallel. The amp will see an 8-ohm load, but it won't mind.

Thank you for the response!! i was away for the weekend so couldnt answer earlier.

I guess i will build 4 for my HT then!! and use PL. Im glad my amp will power all 4 of these!

But i will wait for your instructions then to see how to properly build this! Im not sure when i will start the build, gotta figure out when to get the speakers!
Thanks again!!
post #576 of 814
do we know when more of these will be ready?
post #577 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher View Post

do we know when more of these will be ready?

Erich might have a few left, give him a PM

Al
post #578 of 814
Yes, I do have some more left, but not many. I haven't updated the website because it's about to get changed. I ordered 120 the first time and I could try to get some more cut if it makes sense. I'm not sure what the smallest amount would be to have the CNC company cut some extras, but I could find out.
post #579 of 814
Not sure if I missed it, but has anyone posted SPL numbers for the Anarchy horn build yet? In-room numbers, corner or against a wall? From how many feet away?
post #580 of 814
Anymore left? I would love to get my hands on two flat pack kits if they are still available. How would I order? Who do I pay and how? I would love to get these before the anarchies run out.
post #581 of 814
I think I'm nearly out. Maybe 1 or 2 left at this point. I'll have to check through some emails to make sure people that did request them get them. Give me a couple days to check with everyone. Some guys contacted me here with a screen name different from the email addresses, so I have to match everything up to see who wants what.

It probably makes sense to go ahead and ask for the CNC company to cut more. For whatever reason, I've had a lot of people ask about them in the past week. I'll let everyone know when there are extras. Last week I picked up 200 Overnight Sensation speakers for super cheap and should be getting a couple hundred other flat packs shortly.

I won't be updating the current website until the new website is finished. I ran into a snag but hopefully it will be done within a week or so. The new site will make it MUCH easier to order and track everything. Plus I'll have all the designer names in one place so it's easy to donate to the guys that did all the design work.

By late fall I'm hoping to have at least 20 different flat packs for everyone. There's also some other interesting things in the works as well. It's been quite hectic lately, but all of this should come together in a couple months and be really nice.
post #582 of 814
I would imagine it is because DIY Cable is clearing out the anarchy stock and is switching over to a part time operation.

I hope it doesn't go the way of Adire. I still have my Brahma...

Post or PM me with pricing for the flat packs and shipping to 20817 whenever you get things straightened out.
post #583 of 814
that is such great info from alpine that i'm going to stick it in another post.
post #584 of 814
So I'm thinking one of these subs will be my winter project. I'll use this for music at reasonable volumes, so the PE 70W amp should be fine. I've read that an HP filter is needed for the sub amp and that some amps have this built in and some don't. Would I need to add something to the PE amp for use with this design or is it good to go as is? Forgive the noob question but I'm new to speaker building and this seems like a good start and supplement to my existing setup. I've been reading the various sub threads and can't seem to glean this critical detail. Thanks.
post #585 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarpedian View Post

So I'm thinking one of these subs will be my winter project. I'll use this for music at reasonable volumes, so the PE 70W amp should be fine. I've read that an HP filter is needed for the sub amp and that some amps have this built in and some don't. Would I need to add something to the PE amp for use with this design or is it good to go as is? Forgive the noob question but I'm new to speaker building and this seems like a good start and supplement to my existing setup. I've been reading the various sub threads and can't seem to glean this critical detail. Thanks.

Don't get me wrong - I like the Insubnia a lot.

But - if you're only looking at building one sub, primarily for listening to music, and you're gonna buy a whole sheet of plywood anyhow - I really suggest you look at my T-6 instead (I should know - I designed both....and the T-6 was the result of some of the things I learned from the Insubnia...as well as a few other builds along the way). The Insubnia (this sub) is a nice small cabinet, and it does play low. It is just not that loud by itself. If it is all you have room for - have at it. If you want to build a flat pack, that's an option too, if Erich has any left. If you have a little more room and are not afraid of DIY, consider the T-6

The T-6 has nearly the same low corner, but adds ~6 dB at a watt, and takes lots more power if you use the right driver. It also leaves you with next to no scrap left out of a 4X8 sheet of plywood.

I suggest a high-pass on nearly all my designs because I know how I listen to things, and I hate to hear drivers complain when I ask them to do things they can't. Some amps have them, some don't, and I can't tell based on the data they provide for that amp. That being said, you will not likely have problems with that 70W amp, especially given that the Anarchy is an 8-ohm driver, and the amp would likely deliver no more than 50 W into an 8-ohm load.
post #586 of 814
Hmmmm.......... Hadn't seen the plans for the T-6 here at AVS, I picked up the Insubnia thread over at AudioKarma and liked the form factor and tapped horn concept. Your T-6 looks like another very cool design to consider. I'd be using either in a fairly small room at moderate levels, mostly FM and CDs so I'm not too concerned with maximum volume. Big sounds are available in my HT downstairs, although I have to admit you've got me wondering what a pair orf these would do for my HT! Thanks for the hard work and well documented build info!
post #587 of 814
Would the ferrite magnet version change this design at all?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-919
post #588 of 814
The ferrite motor is a touch peakier than the neo motor, but the plots are within a dB.

Of course - that all depends on the specs being what they are claimed to be. My measured specs were a bit different than the manufacturer's specs on the neo-motor version.
post #589 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

It's not a drop-in replacement, but it is definitely close enough to be usable.



Both drivers driven with 1 watt, Exodus Anarchy in gray, Tang Band W6-1139SI (my measured T/S parameters) in black.

The response is not quite as smooth, it won't quite get as loud, but it does play as low - according to a comparison of the models.

I have the driver and the wood (and I drew the plans...), I just need the time to put one together and test it.



Im curious what you mean by the Tang band W6-1139SI 'is not a drop in replacement'? I have 4 of these and I am just about to build them but what needs to change?
post #590 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMe View Post

Im curious what you mean by the Tang band W6-1139SI 'is not a drop in replacement'? I have 4 of these and I am just about to build them but what needs to change?

All I meany by that is the response is not exactly the same, but certainly close enough.

PM with suggestions sent.
post #591 of 814
Ok just got my anarchy speakers yesterday and now I am looking for an amp while waiting for the flat pack cabinets to be back in stock.

Would somebody put the amp issue to bed for me?

I know 75 watts per speaker seems like the golden number to me but I am going to be running two of these bad boys and I am having a bit of a time finding a good amp that will run 75 watts per channel at 4 ohms. Everything seems to run at 50 watts or 100+.

I found this guy but I would rather not buy 2 amps: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-802

Would this 240 work and not burn out the two speakers?: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-804
post #592 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by englehmj View Post

Ok just got my anarchy speakers yesterday and now I am looking for an amp while waiting for the flat pack cabinets to be back in stock.

Would somebody put the amp issue to bed for me?

I know 75 watts per speaker seems like the golden number to me but I am going to be running two of these bad boys and I am having a bit of a time finding a good amp that will run 75 watts per channel at 4 ohms. Everything seems to run at 50 watts or 100+.

I found this guy but I would rather not buy 2 amps: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-802

Would this 240 work and not burn out the two speakers?: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-804

Should work OK, the Anarchy does not complain much when overdriven, so listen carefully when pushing things. Might not hurt to adjust the highpass to 25 Hz or so, all that takes is changing a couple resistors.
post #593 of 814
Hmm, did not realize that the 240 had a built in high pass for the sub. Where did you find info on this and do you have any idea what it comes set at? I am not sure I have the confidence the open up an amp to start rolling resistors.

I see in the manual that there is a built in 6db 125hzhigh pass on the HL outputs that you would run to your other speakers, but nothing in there about a HPF on the sub.

Since I did not see anything about a built in HP on the sub, I was thinking about using the 30hz FMods.
post #594 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by englehmj View Post

Hmm, did not realize that the 240 had a built in high pass for the sub. Where did you find info on this and do you have any idea what it comes set at? I am not sure I have the confidence the open up an amp to start rolling resistors.

I see in the manual that there is a built in 6db 125hzhigh pass on the HL outputs that you would run to your other speakers, but nothing in there about a HPF on the sub.

Since I did not see anything about a built in HP on the sub, I was thinking about using the 30hz FMods.

It has a 12 dB/oct filter that is easy to change. This is a simple active filter where corner and Q can be adjusted within a specific range by swapping a pair of resistors. Not a big deal to do - I've modded a few similar amps without any drama - they all still work.

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/300-804boost.pdf

13K/220K should work fine, or you can just leave it stock.
post #595 of 814
All,

I'm seriously considering these for my problematic gameroom upstairs. The room opens up to the living room downstairs, and i've had problems with bass from day 1. I've had 2 yamaha SW315 without much luck. I'm thinking and hoping that these horns might be better than the yamahas. Plus their small footprint is perfect. I've 2 corners that i can tuck them into.

But since i've had so much bad luck with bass, i am very very eager to hear them first.
Is there anyone in Dallas area who has these subwoofers?

Thanks
post #596 of 814
Hi,

I'm planing to build a TH with a TangBand W69-1024 ( can't post URLs, yet, but you can easily find it at parts express ). Out of curiousity I downloaded the hornresp-file from lilmike's post a few pages back and punched in the TSPs for the above driver and it seems to work fine, even though Sd is quite a bit bigger!

Only I am getting a warning, that Atc is smaller than Sd, but that should be adjustable. The question is, if I could really build it that way and get a good result?

I also opened another thread, asking for a good startingpoint for this driver in a TH, but if it works in this beatiful little enclosure, I'd actually be quite happy with two of these.
LL
post #597 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by ((( atom ))) View Post

Hi,

I'm planing to build a TH with a TangBand W69-1024 ( can't post URLs, yet, but you can easily find it at parts express ). Out of curiousity I downloaded the hornresp-file from lilmike's post a few pages back and punched in the TSPs for the above driver and it seems to work fine, even though Sd is quite a bit bigger!

Only I am getting a warning, that Atc is smaller than Sd, but that should be adjustable. The question is, if I could really build it that way and get a good result?

I also opened another thread, asking for a good startingpoint for this driver in a TH, but if it works in this beatiful little enclosure, I'd actually be quite happy with two of these.

Why are you using the W69-1042?

The Exodus woofer has a superior motor.
If you want more output, the variant I published here gets louder:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post20689801

The only advantage to the W69, that I can see, is if you want an extremely narrow cabinet.

Not that the W69 is a bad woofer, but those two options have a similar cost with a motor that's more advanced, and refined motors are an important factor in reducing distortion.
post #598 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by ((( atom ))) View Post

Hi,

I'm planing to build a TH with a TangBand W69-1024 ( can't post URLs, yet, but you can easily find it at parts express ). Out of curiousity I downloaded the hornresp-file from lilmike's post a few pages back and punched in the TSPs for the above driver and it seems to work fine, even though Sd is quite a bit bigger!

Only I am getting a warning, that Atc is smaller than Sd, but that should be adjustable. The question is, if I could really build it that way and get a good result?

I also opened another thread, asking for a good startingpoint for this driver in a TH, but if it works in this beatiful little enclosure, I'd actually be quite happy with two of these.

Something is vastly different between your model and mine. My model looks far different than that, I'd suggest something other than the Insubnia for that driver.
post #599 of 814
Damn, I didn't get notified of your answers, so sorry for my late reply!

I would like to use these drivers, since I already have them. I am moving to a new place, so there is a long list of things that are more important to buy, so I can't spend a cent on drivers (my girlfriend would go mad ).

So, what are you saying? No chance for a proper TH with that driver?
post #600 of 814
Proper tapped horns are possible, just not this one.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn