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Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - Page 22

post #631 of 814
Got this today from the CNC company:

"Erich,

Newest information has the subwoofers being cut tomorrow. There were a couple of jobs inserted before the subwoofers that was necessary to keep the men downstream from the CNC working. I am looking forward to looking at your designs on the mdf speakers so that I can get shop orders out to production as soon as possible. Let me know when you will be ready to discuss the next size and quantities. "
post #632 of 814
Erich,
Any updates on when the next batch of flat packs will be ready?
Thanks.
Jake
post #633 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakedsnk View Post

Erich,
Any updates on when the next batch of flat packs will be ready?
Thanks.
Jake

The next round of these has been cut.

I should be picking them up today or tomorrow and will start boxing them up towards the end of the week. I didn't get as many cut this time around, so you might not want to wait very long.

It looks like my shipping rates have gotten even better than last time. 2 people placed orders today and shipping was $16 to MD and about $16.50 to VA.

Here's the link
post #634 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g. View Post

...
Also, which "Rack Mountable" amp to run two of these? as a Plate does not seem to be in the build plans for mounting?

I am also looking for a rack mount amp to power my two horns. Right now I have two driven off an old 100w plate amp and the results are underwhelming. They really wake up when I run them off one of my QSC amps, but that's playing with fire as they have more than enough power to kill these little drivers

For about 2 bills I found the Dayton SA230 (233w @ 1% THD) or Audiosource AMP110 (75w per channel @ .1% THD). Any throughts on these or other suggestions?
post #635 of 814
Amps? Behringer's A500 is not bad for a pair (delivers 125 W RMS into 8 ohms). The Audiosource is a bit much for one 8-ohm cabinet when bridged (150 W), and not quite powerful enough for a stereo pair (50W), and will not do 4 ohm loads when bridged. These options will require a highpass.

The Inuke 1000DSP would work well for a pair (110 W RMS into 8 ohms), and the DSP will allow for proper highpass and limiters, as well as EQ capability. Costs a touch less than the A500 plus an outboard high-pass or DSP too, but will need a fan-mod for theater use.

Just my ideas here....
post #636 of 814
hi radman, Pyromaniak and all guys sorry for the silence . i have made an eight inch version and i have used a normal speaker i think it's sony .i will post pictures soon .what i have noted and can't be ignored when you open the lid for the speaker it becomes louder . i think i should place my speaker near the throat.
post #637 of 814
Finally got them running. The SA240 dayton plate amp was dead, had to fix it. They sound amazing. Here's a picture. Sorry for the quality though, terrible cell phone.
LL
post #638 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by stewin View Post

hi radman, Pyromaniak and all guys sorry for the silence . i have made an eight inch version and i have used a normal speaker i think it's sony .i will post pictures soon .what i have noted and can't be ignored when you open the lid for the speaker it becomes louder . i think i should place my speaker near the throat.

A different driver in a different box is a different sub. I'd totally expect things to measure differently.
post #639 of 814
Just wondering how people are using their horns with the foster or any other plate amp. I am not sure if we can mount it on the cabinet itself ... so are people just placing them on a shelf, and connecting to the cabs via speakers wires?
post #640 of 814
I need to know where to find the cheapest power source for this this build, under 100.00 would be great if possible, plate or not doesn't matter to me.
post #641 of 814
Hey everyone,

Been lurking around the DIY forums for a while. I currently have a full Pioneer series (the one by Andrew Jones), used for about 60% music, 40% HT. The weak link is clearly the sub, the Pioneer SW-8

Anyway, my budget is kind of limited, so I thought I would ask you guys...would this design be an upgrade over my single SW-8, assuming that I will only be building one of them?

Thanks!
post #642 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by normn3116 View Post

Hey everyone,

Been lurking around the DIY forums for a while. I currently have a full Pioneer series (the one by Andrew Jones), used for about 60% music, 40% HT. The weak link is clearly the sub, the Pioneer SW-8

Anyway, my budget is kind of limited, so I thought I would ask you guys...would this design be an upgrade over my single SW-8, assuming that I will only be building one of them?

Thanks!

It would destroy multiples of your Pioneer sub in every way conceivable. Build it and show pics!
post #643 of 814
Lilmike's insubnia looks nice. Would fit nicely with my 2x 75w amp that is gathering dust at this time.

That same amp is bridgeable to 1x 150w and would go nicely with a Dayton RSS 8", 10" or 12" in a conventional design.

What would be the advantages or differences between the two types of sub?

Peter

PS: This would be my first sub. mostly for music, don't need earth shattering explosions for a movie. To be used with a 2.5 way SBaccoustis/SEAS designed by Jed at Clearewave Loudspeaker Design.
post #644 of 814


I've heard about this build during the past year or so, but finally found it recently. Nice job on the design, build, and the measurements to back it up. Appreciate all of the documentation here.

I'm planning on building 2 of these, each with its own sub plate amp. Most of the plate amps with adjustable crossover that I've looked at have a 2nd order roll off.

Based on the frequency response (above), I was wondering if a 2nd order slope would be enough?

Would it be necessary to add a passive contour filter in addition to an amp's 2nd order?
post #645 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

The next round of these has been cut.

I should be picking them up today or tomorrow and will start boxing them up towards the end of the week. I didn't get as many cut this time around, so you might not want to wait very long.

It looks like my shipping rates have gotten even better than last time. 2 people placed orders today and shipping was $16 to MD and about $16.50 to VA.

Here's the link

High Erich,
Wow, can't believe my luck! I'm interested in building a tapped horn, and there is a nice looking flat-pack available! How much is shipping to CA?

And more importantly, where can you buy the driver?
post #646 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Subjga View Post

High Erich,
Wow, can't believe my luck! I'm interested in building a tapped horn, and there is a nice looking flat-pack available! How much is shipping to CA?

And more importantly, where can you buy the driver?

Estimated shipping costs are listed on his site. You can request an invoice which will have precise shipping costs to your address.

You can buy the driver from DIYCable.com
post #647 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by peter_m View Post

That same amp is bridgeable to 1x 150w and would go nicely with a Dayton RSS 8", 10" or 12" in a conventional design.

What would be the advantages or differences between the two types of sub?

A TH (Tapped Horn) will get louder than a 'conventional design' given the same power. It is a much larger enclosure and will require a high pass filter to prevent frequencies below the tuning point of the TH.
post #648 of 814
Hi guys,

Just wanted to say what a great thread this is and how awesome it is that talented people share their knowledge and designs freely. It really is a beautiful thing. I'm not smart enough to figure out how to design a box like this, so I really appreciate when someone does and shares it. Thank you.

Also, is this the TB woofer that works with this box? It's gotten a bit pricey! http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...32&FTR=264-832

Where can you purchase the Exodus woofer? Thanks! *edit* Just saw a few posts above mine. Exodus woofer sold here: http://www.diycable.com/main/product...roducts_id=538
post #649 of 814
Hey all, im getting petty close to biting the bullet and building 1 or 2 of these, i however do have a question about the amp. Do all amps need some sort of high pass alteration like what was being discussed earlier in this thread or is it not needed? I would be using mine for music in a 2.1 system

i was thinking of getting one of these to power it

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-802
post #650 of 814
Just ordered a flat pack for a temporary fix.
Should be interesting. I will see how it does for an outdoor party sub.
If it is not enough it will be my new bedroom bass box.
post #651 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

Hey all, im getting petty close to biting the bullet and building 1 or 2 of these, i however do have a question about the amp. Do all amps need some sort of high pass alteration like what was being discussed earlier in this thread or is it not needed? I would be using mine for music in a 2.1 system.

For this tapped horn, you should have a high pass filter to protect the driver. If your amp doesn't have a built in 35Hz (correction: 25Hz) high-pass filter (the one you referenced does not) you'll need a separate filter for it.


Edited by BeerParty - 6/13/12 at 1:09pm
post #652 of 814
post #653 of 814
Is there a easy way to check that one has built the sub correctly? I mean to check for air leaks or driver sanity etc? I recently built 2 ( flat packs with anarchy driver and NHT foster amps) but I'm finding the output to be limited. But then my room is quite difficult with it being open to downstairs. So I wanted to make sure that I didn't mess anything up.
post #654 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

For this tapped horn, you should have a high pass filter to protect the driver. If your amp doesn't have a built in 35Hz high-pass filter (the one you referenced does not) you'll need a separate filter for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

I suggest 20 to 25 Hz with this one.

Sorry lilmike, I guess I got this one confused with another build.

Thanks for correcting me.
post #655 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by cacophonix View Post

Is there a easy way to check that one has built the sub correctly? I mean to check for air leaks or driver sanity etc? I recently built 2 ( flat packs with anarchy driver and NHT foster amps) but I'm finding the output to be limited. But then my room is quite difficult with it being open to downstairs. So I wanted to make sure that I didn't mess anything up.

Measuring the SPL and Impedance of your cabinets is the best way to know what is going on. There are lots of ways to do this, some are even inexpensive.

Room placement can make or break the performance too.
post #656 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Measuring the SPL and Impedance of your cabinets is the best way to know what is going on. There are lots of ways to do this, some are even inexpensive.

Room placement can make or break the performance too.

Very very true. I moved the subwoofers downstairs, and now i've more bass than i can handle. The volume is set to 9 o clock position, and even then the bass is very prominent.

I guess i was just a bit let down because there was very little bass upstairs, and everyone was raving about these and so i thought that i had messed up the cabinets somehow. But now, they totally rock downstairs. I just completed a pair of sealed selah SSR speakers, and together they sound awesome!
post #657 of 814
Alright, I was put onto this thread a few weeks ago and am really hankering to give this thing a go, but... *total noob question coming your way*

Would it be possible to drive these using a Denon 7.1 receiver with 90w/channel (I'm using 5.1 right now so I'm thinking that would leave me the other 2 channels since it is a 7.1 receiver)? I see alot of talk about getting an amp to run these and I'm a bit low on the discretionary funds right now. Would this even work and/or is it anywhere near optimal?
Thanks!
post #658 of 814
Not without the ability to feed the unused amp channels via auxiliary in. You might be able to do this with a Zone 2 setup, but I have never tried.
post #659 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by cacophonix View Post

Very very true. I moved the subwoofers downstairs, and now i've more bass than i can handle. ...I guess i was just a bit let down because there was very little bass upstairs,

Room construction is a huge factor in wall reflectance in the subsonic range. I will guess you moved from stick-built walls, above grade to cinderblock walls below grade? The latter do not absorb or transmit sound, so it's nearly all reflected.

And that's a very bad thing... you now have huge room modes to deal with, either by using multiple subs at a range of locations (for uniformity; they won't increase sound levels) or adding low frequency absorbers to reduce the reflected energy. Or both.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pressedmeat View Post

...*total noob question coming your way*...

Noob does not mean unreasonable, and you're not asking an unreasonable question. Here's a good link regarding subs:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subwoofer

Your issue is frequency range, section 2.2 of that page. Subs are designed to produce frequencies below ~100 Hz. Your amp will produce frequencies from 20-20KHz. You need a way to a) cross over to the sub so it only sees freq. below 100Hz or so, and b) cross your other speakers so they don't see frequencies below 100Hz or so.

Normally, that's handled by the AVR. Your Denon has a line level subwoofer out, I'm sure, so the crossover circuitry is there, but intended for use with a separate amp. It is theoretically possible to use the other two channels as you desire, but...

What's not so common is an external input to the zone 2/surround channels. If you can plug in an iPod, for example, and listen to it on the zone 2 speakers while using the other channels to watch a movie, you have the required connectivity for what you want to do.

If there are no separate inputs that can allow you to port LFE out to one of the zone 2 amps, the sub would need a speaker-level low-pass filter to cut the sub above 100Hz, and a pair of speaker level high-pass filters to cut the speakers below 100Hz. For the kind of money that requires (big coils are expensive), you could buy a plate amp and be done.

Especially since Parts Express' plate amps are on sale; $50 for 70W is a very good fit to an Anarchy TH. Plug 'n' play with your Denon's LFE output.
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...AT&srchCat=505

Have fun,
Frank
post #660 of 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbov View Post

Room construction is a huge factor in wall reflectance in the subsonic range. I will guess you moved from stick-built walls, above grade to cinderblock walls below grade? The latter do not absorb or transmit sound, so it's nearly all reflected.

And that's a very bad thing... you now have huge room modes to deal with, either by using multiple subs at a range of locations (for uniformity; they won't increase sound levels) or adding low frequency absorbers to reduce the reflected energy. Or both.


Noob does not mean unreasonable, and you're not asking an unreasonable question. Here's a good link regarding subs:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subwoofer

Your issue is frequency range, section 2.2 of that page. Subs are designed to produce frequencies below ~100 Hz. Your amp will produce frequencies from 20-20KHz. You need a way to a) cross over to the sub so it only sees freq. below 100Hz or so, and b) cross your other speakers so they don't see frequencies below 100Hz or so.

Normally, that's handled by the AVR. Your Denon has a line level subwoofer out, I'm sure, so the crossover circuitry is there, but intended for use with a separate amp. It is theoretically possible to use the other two channels as you desire, but...

What's not so common is an external input to the zone 2/surround channels. If you can plug in an iPod, for example, and listen to it on the zone 2 speakers while using the other channels to watch a movie, you have the required connectivity for what you want to do.

If there are no separate inputs that can allow you to port LFE out to one of the zone 2 amps, the sub would need a speaker-level low-pass filter to cut the sub above 100Hz, and a pair of speaker level high-pass filters to cut the speakers below 100Hz. For the kind of money that requires (big coils are expensive), you could buy a plate amp and be done.

Especially since Parts Express' plate amps are on sale; $50 for 70W is a very good fit to an Anarchy TH. Plug 'n' play with your Denon's LFE output.
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...AT&srchCat=505

Have fun,
Frank

That does look like a good price and thank you for the additional information. What do people do with these plate amps? I'm under the impression that they won't fit into this specific enclosure, so, do most people stick them on a shelf somewhere, build a special box just for the amp or what? I have this mental picture of a spiderweb of speaker wire and piles of plate amps laying around everywhere. I have a modest home theater setup, but not much extra space (shelves, etc.) for additional equipment. I'm probably coming across as one of those total pain in the necks...and my wife would agree. I just want to make sure I have a complete picture before I undertake the process.
Thanks again!
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