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21" Maelstrom Curved Box Build - Page 6

post #151 of 732
That reddish tint on the ply grain is surprisingly sexy.
post #152 of 732
That looks great, Kevin!
post #153 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSounds View Post

That reddish tint on the ply grain is surprisingly sexy.

+1

just needs to be sanded even... many ridges
post #154 of 732
Black top and baffle.......don't carry it down or onto the sides of the plywood endgrain......
post #155 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

I wonder if laser or plasma can cut granite? A buddy manages a shop that has both CNC cutters.

I doubt it, but waterjet would.

But it's the edge finishing, not cutting, that's the hard/expensive part.

I still like black glass, even if it weren't cheaper.
post #156 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin A View Post

I love this build!

When I saw you trying out some finish ideas, I thought this sub would look great with some granite details: top & baffle, maybe? I do like the side grain of the wood.

Here's kinda what i was thinkin...




great job, BTW....

Yes, Kevin - that is really sexy looking IMO....

Great job on the mock up...
post #157 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

I doubt it, but waterjet would.

But it's the edge finishing, not cutting, that's the hard/expensive part.

I still like black glass, even if it weren't cheaper.

I think you could go with any glossy black product (granite, marble, corian, glass, even a laminate like formica ) & still get great (sexy) results. The cost & level of difficulty to shape & finish is gonna vary quite a bit, depending on the material chosen.


If you do go the formica route, please fight the urge to go "Avocado Green"...


post #158 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin A View Post

I think you could go with any glossy black product (granite, marble, corian, glass, even a laminate like formica ) & still get great (sexy) results. The cost & level of difficulty to shape & finish is gonna vary quite a bit, depending on the material chosen.


If you do go the formica route, please fight the urge to go "Avocado Green"...

Idk, i kinda like the green...but the side would then need to be "Tortilla Chip Yellow"
post #159 of 732
You can also go with some exotic wood like Brazilian Ebony or Indian Redwood...

The Brazilian Ebony turns black after a month and is super hard.. which one might think it's corian or even granite...
post #160 of 732
I love the look of the exposed plywood. I would highly recommend that you go with a darker stain if you are going to use epoxy. Ive heard that it has a tendency to yellow over time. a darker stain under the top coat will hide any imperfections. my .02$
post #161 of 732
I'd say look into a product called Corian. It is a solid surface counter top replacement for Granite. Looks great and can be machined on wood working tools. That will make it quite a bit cheaper to used.
post #162 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhgilmer View Post

I'd say look into a product called Corian. It is a solid surface counter top replacement for Granite. Looks great and can be machined on wood working tools. That will make it quite a bit cheaper to used.

That's what I'd seriously consider if I wanted to keep the cost reasonable yet still get a great look.

Here's a dramatic image of Corian "Nocturne"




post #163 of 732
Hey,I mentioned that 10 posts ago.....


post #164 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Hey,I mentioned that 10 posts ago.....



Yep, just reiterating a great suggestion so it wont be forgotten!
post #165 of 732
If you like the Corian idea you should check out Samsung's Staron solid surface or LG's HI-MACS.

My counter top guy swears up and down by the Korean (not corian) products...besides who here knew that Samsung and LG made countertops :-)


LG
samsung
post #166 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Hey,I mentioned that 10 posts ago.....



That is what I get for clicking "Last page" on the thread instead of reading it all

Great idea on the Corian Kanaris!
post #167 of 732
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the suggestions guys, there are some great ideas out there. And again thanks to Kevin A. for putting in the effort to give us a visual of what we're all talking about here.

A business associate has a friend who salvaged 3 pallets of black granite. He thinks he can get what I need for free or real cheap. Getting it cut and finished would be the only hurdle.

On another topic, its been suggested I use a Speakon instead of my planned Dayton binding posts. Looks don't matter either way. I don't have pets or kids so the exposed binding posts aren't a big deal for me either. Kevin at Exodus Audio suggests anything greater than 12 awg speaker wire is overkill for my 20' run. I'll be using a bridged Behringer EP4000 for now, possibly bigger in the future. Is there an advantage to using Speakon connections for this application?
post #168 of 732
If you can get the materials for cheap why not spend a little more on getting them cut. Your friend with a CNC laser cutteray know someone with a calypso water jet cutter. If not then you can use the handy-dandy yellow pages :-)


For the connections. I can only imagine te vibrations this beast will produce so I can see how the locking speakon connectors would be a benefit in preventing cables from shaking loose but otherwise I don't see why
post #169 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

On another topic, its been suggested I use a Speakon instead of my planned Dayton binding posts. Looks don't matter either way. I don't have pets or kids so the exposed binding posts aren't a big deal for me either. Kevin at Exodus Audio suggests anything greater than 12 awg speaker wire is overkill for my 20' run. I'll be using a bridged Behringer EP4000 for now, possibly bigger in the future. Is there an advantage to using Speakon connections for this application?

speakONs are cheap, reliable, and fool-proof. Otherwise, they have no advantage. 12awg is totally fine.

Great build, by the way. One of the best and most inspiring I've seen in a while.

Edit: also, if you get the right-angle speakON plug NL4FRX, you can get the back really close to the wall.
post #170 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlag View Post

speakONs are ... fool-proof.

Only if you wire them correctly.
post #171 of 732
Thread Starter 
I made the necessary adjustments to allow a top plate of alternative material to be mounted onto the enclosure. I cut a couple new cross braces sans top plate and attached those to the box and epoxied them to complete the wood portion of my box.



It was time to start the sanding stage. The initial sand was like carpet bombing a city before sending in the ground forces; weapon of choice an angle grinder with a 60 grit sanding wheel. Getting rid of the excess wood where the cube and cylinder meet was way easier than I expected. I was able to do it with the angle grinder. I just kept blending the two shapes until they met and it naturally took shape.

BEFORE




AFTER




Now that the enclosure is closer to its finished state I have to admit it is a really beautiful shape; I'm quite happy with it.

post #172 of 732
Nice job! Lookin' good!
Another mountain of sawdust, no doubt!
post #173 of 732
Looks awesome.What I would recommend is you get some miniwax wood putty and apply it all over and then get at it with some 150 to 220 grit sandpaper. Wear a mask. Once it's all smooth I would apply a sealer then sand that with some 320 paper and reapply again one more time.
post #174 of 732
the work is breathtaking!
post #175 of 732
looking G R E A T,,

that mock up by Kevin does look very good,, not sure the actual plywood will take that even of a staining,, would try a few test pieces of several layers glued together to verify,,

certainly has a rich appeal,,

will be interesting to see if this one will move the shoes on the shelf,,

Derry
post #176 of 732
+1 for speakons, best part about them is you can connect and disconnect with no chance of shorting, even under load.
post #177 of 732
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Looks awesome.What I would recommend is you get some miniwax wood putty and apply it all over and then get at it with some 150 to 220 grit sandpaper. Wear a mask. Once it's all smooth I would apply a sealer then sand that with some 320 paper and reapply again one more time.

I was going to use de-waxed garnet shellac as the sealer. I've read shellac makes an excellent sealer and it would darken the wood at the same time. Do you see any issues with that?
post #178 of 732
Thread Starter 
Score!
It wasn't easy getting granite for project, but I ended up getting a great deal once I did. The housing market is booming here so I couldn't even get a granite place to talk to me let alone give me a quote. Turns out a coworker has a friend that owns a granite place and he says he'll give me the 2'x2.5' piece for free and cutting and finishing it will be $60.
post #179 of 732
Quote:
Originally Posted by corock View Post

Score!
It wasn't easy getting granite for project, but I ended up getting a great deal once I did. The housing market is booming here so I couldn't even get a granite place to talk to me let alone give me a quote. Turns out a coworker has a friend that owns a granite place and he says he'll give me the 2'x2.5' piece for free and cutting and finishing it will be $60.



Of course, seeing is believing...
post #180 of 732
awesome corock!
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