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Official Rythmik Audio DIY Subwoofer Kit thread - Page 6

post #151 of 341
where can i put a order on the Diy kit?
rythmik website?i have viewed the price of $769 for DS1510&H600EQ3 ,so the price is expensive little...
Did you have any cheap dealers to buy them?...PM please
post #152 of 341
Quote:
Originally Posted by james_jsj View Post

where can i put a order on the Diy kit?
rythmik website?i have viewed the price of $769 for DS1510&H600EQ3 ,so the price is expensive little...
Did you have any cheap dealers to buy them?...PM please

The only place to order the DIY kits is from the Rythmik website there are no dealers other than Rythmik for the DIY kits. They also never go on sale because they are priced so reasonable for what you are getting. You won’t find a better sounding sub for that price anywhere. The price of $769 reflects a price increase of $40 that will not go into effect until the 18th if you order before then the increase will be deducted at check out. This was posted on the Official Rythmik thread.
post #153 of 341
I was just messin around with the T/S parameters of the 15" Rythmik and surprisingly the smaller E15 box had a Qtc of .709.
The 4 cu.ft. box was at .620. Maybe this doesn't really matter with the servo amp.?? The 4 cu.ft. box still has more output but not by much. Maybe the E15 box size is the way to go for overall sound quality?
Measured at 600watts.
post #154 of 341
With the servo amps in sealed boxes I think the SQ is the same only the SPL changes between the different subs. I think with the vented boxes this is also true.
post #155 of 341
I have ordered two of the DS1510 kits. I am excited for this build. I am designing my own boxes. Probably 3.75 CuFt after deductions for the driver,amp and bracing.

I think this is going to be fun build.
post #156 of 341
It is a fun build. I built my box first and then bought the DS1505. I'm still working out the kinks, I moved the sub to different wall that has a better response so I'm starting over EQ'ing. I'm also thinking about building a down firing because I think it may have a better response in my room. My old sub didn't have as many nulls and it was down fireing. Well see that's a lot of work.
post #157 of 341
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darksky Audio View Post

I have ordered two of the DS1510 kits. I am excited for this build. I am designing my own boxes. Probably 3.75 CuFt after deductions for the driver,amp and bracing.

I think this is going to be fun build.

I'm right on the edge of the fence to do the same thing. Now that prices are changing saturday I'm feeling the pressure.
post #158 of 341
I have been thinking about it for a few months.

Originally I had planned on two F25 subs, but with the delays Brian has had to deal with , he recommended going with the F15HP kits instead.

I started a build thread over at emotiva lounge: http://http://emotivalounge.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=diy&action=display&thread=22288&page=3

I have gone through a few revisions in the design. I want to end up with a box that is around 3.75 after all the take aways.

I am going to use .75 mdf and double the walls to 1.5 ont he top front and back.I want to use a mica product to put piano black on them for finish.
On the sides I will use quartersawn oak or another hardwood to double the thickness to 1.5
The bottom will sit on a 1 inch thick sheet of granite that is a little bigger than the box all the way around.
post #159 of 341
How in the world are you going to move that sub? My 4cu ft box with driver and amp I believe is over 100 lbs. When you add double wall and the granite bottom I would think it will be well over 200 lbs. I’ve had mine in 4 different locations trying to find the best one, so you may not be able to bring it in and the first place you put it be the best sounding spot. I would love to see some pictures when you have it done. I does sound like it’s going to be a sharp looking sub.
post #160 of 341
I won't put the base on until it is in the living room. Anyone know how heavy the drivers are?

I am trying to find some planks that I like for the sides. I want something cool, tigery, figured, knotty, veined - something. I am thinking about an orangish undercoat to bring up the details, then a tobacco stain for a topcoat with maybe tung oil finish.

Did anyone look at my drawings? What do you think of the box getting narrower towards the rear? I like the bevels on the edges to make it look smaller (Ha).
post #161 of 341
The shipping weight of the DS1505 is 39 lbs. The DS1510 is going to be heavier by at least a few pounds. I've heard if the wood you are describing I want to say it came from Africa I think it was call zebra wood, I can’t remember sorry not much help. I did look at your box and I think I will look great much better than a square one. I’m not that good of a woodworker so I didn’t attempt it and I was on somewhat of a budget so I just used the black ash vinyl from PE. I don’t think you can do much to make them look smaller they are big, oh and that marble is going to be sharp, I haven’t seen that before so it will be unique also.
post #162 of 341
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darksky Audio View Post

I am trying to find some planks that I like for the sides. I want something cool, tigery, figured, knotty, veined - something. I am thinking about an orangish undercoat to bring up the details, then a tobacco stain for a topcoat with maybe tung oil finish.

you could do a wood veneer using paperbacked veneer and heat lock glue.(iron on)


veneersupplies.com
post #163 of 341
I am open to any and all suggestions for this build

I have seen the African zebrawood. That kind of pattern (more or less) can be found in other woods as well, it just is not as prominent. I will try an find something that is interesting.

Hopefully I will get to a wood supply house sometime soon.

As far as paperbacked veneers. Some of them are nice. I have seen the Black Ash one and thought well of it. For this project, I think I will use hardwood. I only need about fourteen foot of 1x8 stock to complete the look I want.

Where would you get magnets and slip in mounts for the grille?

I talked to a granite supply girl today at a semi fancy countertop shop. She figured about $150 for each four square foot piece with the edge cuts. I think she is way too high. I am talking about two- two foot countertop scraps, not soem great big special order.

Thanks for all the help. I will post pictures of the build as I go along. Any suggestions will really be considered. This is my first attempt at making a speaker enclosure.

I need the help...
post #164 of 341
You can get all the hardware from PartsExpress.com. I used the magnets on my DS1505 and they work great. I made a round grill cover so when you put it on you have to hold it up to the speaker and rotate it to line up the magnets and when they line up it sucks the grill onto the speaker. Use their hurricane nuts to mount the speaker they are better than t-nuts they won’t tear up the MDF.
post #165 of 341
Wow, the hurricane nuts look like they surpass the Tnuts completely. I will order from PE today. I want to pick up some other stuff as well.

I think that ten bucks for 8 magnets is too much. Getting everything from one source is convenient, but I think that those magnets may only cost a few cents to procuce. I will look around.

Larry thanks for your interest.

Awde- I looked at your link in depth. Some of those two ply veneers are beautiful. You have got me thinking.
post #166 of 341
I bought some rare earth magnets from HarborFreight.com a while back to replace some window magnets on my alarm system and forgot I had them. I paid $1.99 in store for them, I checked, they are just as strong as the ones from Parts Express. They are a little bit smaller in diameter but you get 10 in the pack. So put more than 4 on the cover although you may only need four. I’ll be using these next time.
post #167 of 341
I picked up 20 3/4 x 1/8 on Ebay for $13 bucks.
post #168 of 341
Cool haven't thought about e-bay for stuff like that. There sure was a lot to choose from. I wander how diameter vs thickness has to do with holding power. It's going to be a little hard to counter sink a 3/4 inch magnet. Guess you can use a paddle bit, may even work better because it will be a flat bottom.
post #169 of 341
A paddle bit is what I was thinking. I also went to Parts Express and picked up. The large grill guides.. I imagine the 3/4 magnets will be pretty strong. I will set them into the MCF and then put the formica over them. I am not sure what to do on the grills yet

I also got parts to build a few speker wires and some TechFlex to make everything pretty.

I am thinking about making RCA cables for the new subs too. Have you ever made RCA cables? Looks pretty straight forward.

I am just not sure which plugs to buy.

I looked at some old wide plank oak flooring today. It would make neat panels for my subs. Too bad for me, the guy that has them has already got them earmarked for a project. They are old enough that they are real dimensional 1x10 with no flutes on the bottom. They were just nailed to the joists.
post #170 of 341
The easiest grill I've made is the one I'm using on my Rythmik a round one. I've never bothered with making any cables because they are so cheep Amazon and Monoprice. I did see where they made a kitchen counter top out of some old oak floor planking and it did come out nice but it wasn't cheep. Have you gotten you parts yet? I saw that the DS1510 vented is on back order. Was talking to Brian about changing over to a FV15 but I think I've about made up my mind not to because the F15 has a better frequency response it's just not quite as loud.
post #171 of 341


UPS man brought me two of these this afternoon. Sawdust starts tomorrow.

post #172 of 341
here is a copy of my first drawing:


From above:


This was an early drawing. The front rectangular section will actually be nine and three quarters inches deep. I needed to make the interior volume a little larger, so I pushed that angled section back a little.
post #173 of 341
So what's your final internal volume with your adjustment in size?
post #174 of 341
3.76 cubic feet after everything. all the take aways- driver.35 Amp.117 baffles.16 bracing.08
post #175 of 341
I finaly took the plunge!!
Ordered 2 HP's and some cherry veneer last week. I started building boxes over the weekend. Here's my progress.


post #176 of 341
Wow, those are beautifully done. I am cutting material today. I really like the veneers that you suggested. I am having a hard time justifiying the hardwood. I will post more pictures tonight.
post #177 of 341
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darksky Audio View Post

Wow, those are beautifully done. I am cutting material today. I really like the veneers that you suggested. I am having a hard time justifiying the hardwood. I will post more pictures tonight.

Thanks. After looking at the total cost of the project I decided to go with a cheaper veneer option. I settled on paperbacked cherry 4'x8' for $56
post #178 of 341
Those boxes are very nice. I like the way you used the strength of the circle as your internal bracing. It is so simple and so incredibly strong. It is so much of a better design, than even most of the sub companies use.

You should be proud of your work.

I cut twentytwo peices of .75 mdf out of two full sheets today. I began assembly. I put the fram of one together and began the second. I have more rudimentary degigns for my bracing, given the shape of my boxes, I thionk they will be pretty neat.

I will post good pictures tonight. I put a few crappy shots on the other (Emotiva Lounge) site when I got in, but they don't really show off the design. I will have more to show tonight.

I think I have figured out what I am doing on the sides. - white oak 1x4 strips running horizontally. I have some pretty stock to work from.
post #179 of 341
Gentlemen, T20 lives!
http://redspade-audio.blogspot.com.a...-complete.html

What does T mean?
It could be tapped horn ...
It could be turbo charged ...
Terminator?
Trouble Maker?
Or all of the above!

Yes, it is ugly (it will go under the house)
No, it's not as neat or pretty as just about any other Rythmik DIY build!

Bracing:



I made it dual opposed and it's really quite amazing how little the box moves. I can get the kind of output that would push the drivers as direct radiators, and you can barely feel the box move. Yet it's a giant horn that manages to be light enough for me to move it into the room from the workshop without help, without straining.

It is 2.25m tall x 600 wide x 400 deep.

It's huge!



Drivers mount here with a removable panel:



This is the mouth:



Driver is DS12 with 18mm xmax. This one was manufactured by TC Sounds and the basket is the same as that used on my previous subs - the 2003 version of the Acoustic Elegance AV12. As a direct radiator the Rythmik kills the AV12 in sound quality. The AV12 had a bit more thermal power handling and a bit more xmax, but the Rythmik is in another league.

Temporary position for testing:



It's quite a simple design with around 94 db sensitivity (simulated) and 120 db max SPL all the way down to 20 Hz. The tapped horn limits the bandwidth and I would say about 60 Hz would probably be the upper limit, whereas normally I'd run it up to say 80 Hz. Crossing it around 40 - 50 Hz means this becomes a very robust high SPL sub. The narrower bandwidth reduces the thermal load and power demands on the amp. The idea is to increase the sensitivity and output to match my horn system (Synergy horns). The amps in this design have just enough power to reach xmax limits and it is safe with a 20 Hz high pass added to the built-in 20 Hz first order filter. Basically it becomes indestructable! Previously it was possible to find the limits but that will no longer be the case.

So does the horn loading improve the sound? Does it degrade it?

I'm still asking myself this. It's hard to compare because it's a bit like getting in the driver's seat of a race car. I've had the kits since 2006 and I have not heard anything better than the Rythmik subs. (And no, I'm not a sheltered DIYer lacking exposure to high end systems).

What I notice with the tapped horn is that bass can tend to take on a tactile sensation. I have not had this with direct radiator subs. I'm not sure if it's related to running hot, or if it's some horn trait, or simply the ability to hit hard without compression due to the extreme output capability. Hard to say so far.

The bass with this thing is very potent. It's the closest thing to a live rock concert I've heard in a home. It's tactile and punchy. But at the same time it's taken up some bass trap real estate which isn't helping. I have a little get together coming up where we will run this along with a front loaded horn and various pro driver sealed boxes. That will be fun.
post #180 of 341
Great work Paul! You should ask Brian about his experience with using his drivers/amps in the DTS10 enclosure. He would have some comments on sound quality differences I'm sure.
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