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Official Rythmik Audio DIY Subwoofer Kit thread - Page 8

post #211 of 302
1/7/13 at 10:56am
I'm helping a friend build DS1505 vented subwoofer. Can anyone who has built this already put up some build pics? I'm not sure i understand the braces correctly (esp the positioning of brace B3). He has already bought the kit.
We are trying to follow the plans at http://www.rythmikaudio.com/download/DS1500v_sub_plan.pdf
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post #212 of 302
1/7/13 at 2:51pm
Very strange to me. I e-mailed them about the T/S Parameters for the 1510 driver (so I could try some simulations) and they told me they were the same as the 1501. How could a subwoofer with a different cone, different basket, and different motor have the same T/S parameters? Or is it actually the same motor, and the pictures make it look different?

Even then, the 1501 is supposed to be good for 500W and the 1510 for 600W. What am I missing here?
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post #213 of 302
1/8/13 at 11:37pm
dj---As for the power rating, that is simply because the 1510 has a three inch voice coil, the 1501 a two. The motor on the 1510 is also quite a bit larger than the 1501's. The t/s parameters are inductance, impedance, resistance, etc., and the two drivers can be, and apparently are, similiar in those regards in spite of the different motors and power handling capabilities. The Servo Feedback circuit that Rythmik uses may make the two drivers more alike electronically than they otherwise would be.
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post #214 of 302
1/11/13 at 11:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

dj---As for the power rating, that is simply because the 1510 has a three inch voice coil, the 1501 a two. The motor on the 1510 is also quite a bit larger than the 1501's. The t/s parameters are inductance, impedance, resistance, etc., and the two drivers can be, and apparently are, similiar in those regards in spite of the different motors and power handling capabilities. The Servo Feedback circuit that Rythmik uses may make the two drivers more alike electronically than they otherwise would be.

I hear you, but I have a really hard time believing that 2 different subwoofers would have the same T/S parameters, especially with a larger voicecoil and different motor.
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post #215 of 302
1/12/13 at 10:39am
Don, maybe you know?
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post #216 of 302
3/13/13 at 12:06pm
Anyone have any thoughts on a buget build using a DS1501 mated with an O-Audio BASH 300W amp? Seems most use the servo amps.

Anyway, my room is 24'x12'x8' lower lever(Tri-Levlel home) and the upper back wall opens to the kitchen. I really want to go with a sealed enclosure about 3 to 3.5 cu ft due to my desire for natural bass for a 50/50 Music/Movies system. I wonder if I need the output of a ported enclosure? I really don't want a larger enclosure and I wonder how well I will like the sub ported with the BASH amp vs. going with a servo amp? However, if i can get the DS1501 I saw for $150, the O-Audio amp for $129, and build my own enclosure this would make for a very affordable entry sub. I could always move to the servo amp later when the budget allows.

I don't have a sub currnetly and have been looking at used older 12" HSU and SVS subs on craigslist in the $250-$400 price range. But, I have always said that one 15" or two 12" subs would be my starting point.
Edited by WLDock - 3/13/13 at 12:18pm
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post #217 of 302
3/13/13 at 2:47pm
Not sure how many folks are still watching this thread yet I purchased two 1510 sealed kits and will begin planning my builds this weekend. I basically want to mimic two F-15HPs yet I will need to build an enclosure that will best fit my intended locations. This will involve the driver ending up on the long side of a rectangular enclosure. My main question is what is better, closer to 3 cubic feet like the actual HP or 4 cubic ft like some of the kit plans etc..?

If anyone is monitoring share your thoughts. ... :-)

Thanks
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post #218 of 302
3/14/13 at 3:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Not sure how many folks are still watching this thread yet I purchased two 1510 sealed kits and will begin planning my builds this weekend. I basically want to mimic two F-15HPs yet I will need to build an enclosure that will best fit my intended locations. This will involve the driver ending up on the long side of a rectangular enclosure. My main question is what is better, closer to 3 cubic feet like the actual HP or 4 cubic ft like some of the kit plans etc..?

If anyone is monitoring share your thoughts. ... :-)

Thanks

Smitty---You definitely want to have 4cuft internal volume. Brian uses a 3cuft box only to save on shipping costs, and recommends 4 cuft for the DS1510 driver and H600W amp. I don't know if you've seen it, but on the AVS website there are great subwoofer flatpacks being offered at bargain prices. Erich has CNC cut boxes in both 3cuft and 4cuft sizes. All you have to do is glue the panels together, and they have rabbet joints to make is very easy and clean. Check it out!
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post #219 of 302
3/14/13 at 3:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

I hear you, but I have a really hard time believing that 2 different subwoofers would have the same T/S parameters, especially with a larger voicecoil and different motor.

dj---Did you ever get an answer to your questions? If you can get Brian on the phone, I'm sure he'd be happy to discuss it with you.
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post #220 of 302
3/19/13 at 9:21am
Long time lurker here.

Ran across some extra bonus money this year and finally sprung on a Rythmik Audio DS1501 CI kit.

I'm stoked about starting a build! You guys think I'll get it on/before this Friday? I ordered yesterday biggrin.gif
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post #221 of 302
3/19/13 at 10:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by joshuass View Post

Long time lurker here.

Ran across some extra bonus money this year and finally sprung on a Rythmik Audio DS1501 CI kit.

I'm stoked about starting a build! You guys think I'll get it on/before this Friday? I ordered yesterday biggrin.gif

Hi Josh - same here on the extra cash.... biggrin.gif

Not sure on your question yet I ordered mine just over a week ago on Sat and they arrived last Wed. I live in the Dallas area thus they only had approx 250 miles to go.. They shipped on Tue.

So if all is well at Rythmik they / yours should ship today and depending on your state you very well could have them Fri. - Good luck!


Are you going sealed or vented? I'm building two 1510 kits / sealed boxes - haven't completely decided on shape or if front or down firing. You?

Cheers
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post #222 of 302
3/19/13 at 11:18am
It will be a sealed design. The room my HT setup is in is not that big, but has a vaulted ceiling and is a bit cramped for furniture. The current sub sits in a corner completely enclosed by 2 walls, a couch and an end table.

Its an older Onkyo sub that came with their HT-SP908 HTIB. I had reservations about the rythmik playing nice with the main speakers (they have 2 3-1/4 woofers and tweeter in each). I mainly watch movies on the setup so I am not too concerned if it ends up sounding a little "boomy".

I too am waffling between a down-firing or front-firing design. I am also trying to figure out if I will be integrating it into a box that is also an end table. Im kind of leaning more towards a side firing design (just so I can look at the enormity of the thing!).

Whatever the design is, it will most likely be made from furniture grade plywood with a veneer (to match my custom built HT rack).
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post #223 of 302
3/21/13 at 6:41am
Hey guys, I just bought a 1510 CI with 600PEQ3 so I will be making some dust and posting pictures in a few weeks (or whenever I find the time :-|)

KJsmitty, Brian told me over the phone that 1510 is not recommended for a down firing setup, so keep this in mind.

Cheers
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post #224 of 302
3/21/13 at 10:49am
Hi Everyone,
I have a question about a Rythmik DIY. In doing some more research on box sizes, etc and modeling some dimension in my room. Whether I like it or not, size is going to be an issue. I like the size and look of the sub here: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/D15SE.html
My question is, the plans found here: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/download/DS1500s_sub_plan.pdf use the same AMP and same size driver as the D15SE, but the box is much bigger. Is the driver the key here or is there something going on inside the box? The performance of the D15SE (first link) would seem to be all I need for my room. Could I expect to repeat that performance of the D15SE using the CI1501 Driver and AMP combo - http://www.rythmikaudio.com/DS1500ci.html and build a box to the dimensions of the D15SE, which would be smaller than the DIY plans prescribed for that driver/amp combo.
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post #225 of 302
3/21/13 at 12:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chpwaman View Post

Hi Everyone,
I have a question about a Rythmik DIY. In doing some more research on box sizes, etc and modeling some dimension in my room. Whether I like it or not, size is going to be an issue. I like the size and look of the sub here: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/D15SE.html
My question is, the plans found here: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/download/DS1500s_sub_plan.pdf use the same AMP and same size driver as the D15SE, but the box is much bigger. Is the driver the key here or is there something going on inside the box? The performance of the D15SE (first link) would seem to be all I need for my room. Could I expect to repeat that performance of the D15SE using the CI1501 Driver and AMP combo - http://www.rythmikaudio.com/DS1500ci.html and build a box to the dimensions of the D15SE, which would be smaller than the DIY plans prescribed for that driver/amp combo.

I also asked this question to Rythmik and they said I could use the Ci1501 combo in the D15SE box and they were kind enough to send me the plans/dimensions for that box. Gotta love that type of customer service.
Edited by chpwaman - 3/21/13 at 4:16pm
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post #226 of 302
3/21/13 at 5:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by andy133 View Post

Hey guys, I just bought a 1510 CI with 600PEQ3 so I will be making some dust and posting pictures in a few weeks (or whenever I find the time :-|)

KJsmitty, Brian told me over the phone that 1510 is not recommended for a down firing setup, so keep this in mind.

Cheers

Many thanks Andy,
As of about an hour ago I have two "flat packs" cut. My folks are in town and my dad wanted to make some dust with me so off to get MDF we went. Tomorrow I'll break out the router and cut out the rounds and bracing reliefs.

All, I went with a front firing design with "interior- volume" dimensions: 19 wide by 19 tall by 21 deep, inches of course. Outer will be: 20.5 by 20.5 by 24 inches deep. Will put me right at a 4 cubic foot internal box with bracing etc.

I actually borrowed a coworkers 15 inch sub and performed a sub crawl this week as well. Best location fell in the back corners, front corners second and flanking my center channel was third best. My dimensions allow me to use them in all three locations, most importantly the 20.5 height allows it to sit under my screen.

The fun and fever has begun... biggrin.gif

Cheers
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post #227 of 302
3/24/13 at 7:35pm
Managed to get quite a bit done on my two DS1510 sealed 4 c-ft DIY boxes in the past few days.

Question on the sub internal "poly fill" / dampening material. The DS1510 kit contains what appears to one to two inch thick poly fill. My plan is to cover all internal sides of the box. Curious how thick the fill "should" be or best way to affix it to the internal walls etc.?

Anyone else building?

Cheers
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post #228 of 302
3/25/13 at 3:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Managed to get quite a bit done on my two DS1510 sealed 4 c-ft DIY boxes in the past few days.

Question on the sub internal "poly fill" / dampening material. The DS1510 kit contains what appears to one to two inch thick poly fill. My plan is to cover all internal sides of the box. Curious how thick the fill "should" be or best way to affix it to the internal walls etc.?

Anyone else building?

Cheers

Smitty---My kits (same as yours, two DS1510's) came with sheets of polyfill rather that loose material. I haven't unfolded the fill yet (my boxes are getting cut tomorrow, on a CNC machine) so I don't know if it's one big sheet or two smaller ones. Brian recommends lining the outer walls of the enclosure only, so do one layer of fill and give the sub a listen. If it sounds like you think it should, leave well enough alone. Or, you could take the drivers out and put in a second layer (assuming there is enough material left to do so) and see if it's better. A PITA, so hopefully you can get an answer from Brian soon. Congratulations on your new State of the Art Subs!
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post #229 of 302
3/25/13 at 6:26pm
I posted this question in Erich's thread but I figured I should ask it here as well. Since Rythmik's 15" subs are 3 cubic feet and Brian's DIY plans call for 3 or 4 cubic feet has anyone thought about using Erich's Flat Packs from DIY Sound Group? It seems like the bracing is pretty much the same so it should all work out. Hopefully a simple way to clone an E15 or F15HP.
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post #230 of 302
3/25/13 at 7:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

Smitty---My kits (same as yours, two DS1510's) came with sheets of polyfill rather that loose material. I haven't unfolded the fill yet (my boxes are getting cut tomorrow, on a CNC machine) so I don't know if it's one big sheet or two smaller ones. Brian recommends lining the outer walls of the enclosure only, so do one layer of fill and give the sub a listen. If it sounds like you think it should, leave well enough alone. Or, you could take the drivers out and put in a second layer (assuming there is enough material left to do so) and see if it's better. A PITA, so hopefully you can get an answer from Brian soon. Congratulations on your new State of the Art Subs!

Thanks BDP,
I no more than posted the question and found/read on the Rythmik site that Brian recommends less "fill" than most due to the servo design. Initially, all the recommendations elsewhere stating approximated one pound fill per cubic foot of box had me wondering. smile.gif. The kits did come with the sheet of fill. It's about one inch thick and probably enough to make the recommended one layer on all sides - will stick with that as you commented.

Congrats on your kits - and the CNC job on the boxes. I'm sure that will make for a perfect and beautiful pair. I'll admit I was a tad hesitant to attack two and a half sheets of MDF with a skill saw, table saw, router, drill and jig. My father, in his upper 70s, near deaf, yet still very capable physically was a huge help and was totally interested and excited to assist. He had no idea what a dedicated subwoofer was but thought the Rythmik amp and drivers were "things of beauty". biggrin.gif We managed to get everything cut within a 32nd of an inch tolerance. The only cuts I didn't worry much about we're the 6 and 7 inch diameter circles/cutouts on the internal bracing - those were quick work with the jigsaw...

Are you performing the "assembly"? What size of box - did you utilize one of the Rythmik plans? -(You may have already mentioned the info in previous pages).
I've seen and heard two F15HPs in person a year ago yet my boxes look huge in comparison even though only larger by a couple of inches...biggrin.gif. I've taken pictures along the way and may post later this week. I'm enjoying the hell out of this build!

Cheers
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post #231 of 302
3/26/13 at 1:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Thanks BDP,
I no more than posted the question and found/read on the Rythmik site that Brian recommends less "fill" than most due to the servo design. Initially, all the recommendations elsewhere stating approximated one pound fill per cubic foot of box had me wondering. smile.gif. The kits did come with the sheet of fill. It's about one inch thick and probably enough to make the recommended one layer on all sides - will stick with that as you commented.

Congrats on your kits - and the CNC job on the boxes. I'm sure that will make for a perfect and beautiful pair. I'll admit I was a tad hesitant to attack two and a half sheets of MDF with a skill saw, table saw, router, drill and jig. My father, in his upper 70s, near deaf, yet still very capable physically was a huge help and was totally interested and excited to assist. He had no idea what a dedicated subwoofer was but thought the Rythmik amp and drivers were "things of beauty". biggrin.gif We managed to get everything cut within a 32nd of an inch tolerance. The only cuts I didn't worry much about we're the 6 and 7 inch diameter circles/cutouts on the internal bracing - those were quick work with the jigsaw...

Are you performing the "assembly"? What size of box - did you utilize one of the Rythmik plans? -(You may have already mentioned the info in previous pages).
I've seen and heard two F15HPs in person a year ago yet my boxes look huge in comparison even though only larger by a couple of inches...biggrin.gif. I've taken pictures along the way and may post later this week. I'm enjoying the hell out of this build!

Cheers

Can't do much better than a 32nd of an inch! For mine, I wanted three things: 1- a box with an internal volume of 4 cu.ft. after bracing and displacement of driver and amp. 2- the box to be tall, deep, and narrow, rather than a cube. 3- a second box to be built around the first, with 1/2" spacers separating the inner and outer boxes, the resulting empty chambers to be filled with Silica #60 sand. The design was inspired by the "Sand Box" that Danny Richie (Brian's collaborator at GR Research) posted on his site for his 12" driver. I was contacted by an AVS member who has a complete wood shop (including a CNC machine) about doing the job. You bet! I'm doing the assembly, so that I can put in bracing (tic-tac-toe style) every 5.5" in each plane inside the inner box. Overkill? Ah, what the Hell!---Eric.
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post #232 of 302
3/26/13 at 6:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

Can't do much better than a 32nd of an inch! For mine, I wanted three things: 1- a box with an internal volume of 4 cu.ft. after bracing and displacement of driver and amp. 2- the box to be tall, deep, and narrow, rather than a cube. 3- a second box to be built around the first, with 1/2" spacers separating the inner and outer boxes, the resulting empty chambers to be filled with Silica #60 sand. The design was inspired by the "Sand Box" that Danny Richie (Brian's collaborator at GR Research) posted on his site for his 12" driver. I was contacted by an AVS member who has a complete wood shop (including a CNC machine) about doing the job. You bet! I'm doing the assembly, so that I can put in bracing (tic-tac-toe style) every 5.5" in each plane inside the inner box. Overkill? Ah, what the Hell!---Eric.

And here I thought you were taking this build serious....... biggrin.gif

Quite impressive sounding; however, I think I just popped a hernia thinking about moving your masterpiece from the shop into the house..

Do you happen to have the cubic inches or cubic feet numbers for the DS1510 amp and driver displacement? I had estimated around 400 cubic inches but that was purely a semi calculated estimate etc.. My calculated net volume without amp/driver is 7308 cubic inches - approx 4.3 cubic feet. Figured I'd be right at 4 cubes sealed up..

Would love to see a picture or two during your assembly. Your box within a box design sounds awesome.

Cheers
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post #233 of 302
3/27/13 at 5:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

And here I thought you were taking this build serious....... biggrin.gif

Quite impressive sounding; however, I think I just popped a hernia thinking about moving your masterpiece from the shop into the house..

Do you happen to have the cubic inches or cubic feet numbers for the DS1510 amp and driver displacement? I had estimated around 400 cubic inches but that was purely a semi calculated estimate etc.. My calculated net volume without amp/driver is 7308 cubic inches - approx 4.3 cubic feet. Figured I'd be right at 4 cubes sealed up..

Would love to see a picture or two during your assembly. Your box within a box design sounds awesome.

Cheers

Brian has stated that the volume displacement of the 1501 is 0.3 cu.ft., and the plate amp 0.1. The 1510 driver must be a little greater (because of the larger magnets), but not enough to worry about I would guess (maybe 0.05-0.1). My bracing is taking up a little over 0.5 cu.ft., and I am lining the interior of the inner box with Armstrong Commercial Composite 1/8" floor tiles---a cheapskate version of wall damping, so I made the inner box (the one the driver sees) just under 5 cu.ft. (18W X 24H X 24D), right at 4.0 after the bracing, tiles, driver, and amp are subtracted. I'm planning on taking pics as I assemble these overbuilt anchors, posting them after they are completed, rather than as I go (I work s..l..o..w).
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post #234 of 302
3/28/13 at 2:06am
I just calculated the volume of sand I'll need, and it's weight. Damn, a hair under 45 lbs. per cab! Each sheet of Plum Creek highly-refined MDF I got weighs around 80 lbs., and each cab is taking two sheets for the inner and outer boxes. That's already over 200 lbs. per cab for the MDF and sand, and that doesn't include the DS1510 driver (a little over 30 lbs.),the plate amp (I don't recall, but it's gotta be 10-15 lbs.). Now we're up to 240-250 per cab, without bracing (1.5" X 1.5" X 396 linear inches of either plywood or hardwood---any recommendations? Bill F---my bracing Guru---if you see this, what do you recommend? I want to use square stock instead of dowels so that I can glue and bolt all the braces to one another everywhere they cross), grills (only a few pounds), and the floor tiles (1.5 lbs. per sq.ft.---about 24 lbs.). Oy, maybe I should put wheels on them instead of spikes. Thank God I have a cement slab foundation!
Edited by BDP24 - 3/28/13 at 2:15am
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post #235 of 302
3/28/13 at 5:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLaw612 View Post

I posted this question in Erich's thread but I figured I should ask it here as well. Since Rythmik's 15" subs are 3 cubic feet and Brian's DIY plans call for 3 or 4 cubic feet has anyone thought about using Erich's Flat Packs from DIY Sound Group? It seems like the bracing is pretty much the same so it should all work out. Hopefully a simple way to clone an E15 or F15HP.

Anywhere from 3cu.ft.up to 4cu.ft. is good, 4 being better because the driver will require less power from the amp, giving you a little more headroom. The problem with Erich's flatpacks, therefore, is that the 3cu.ft. box has a cutout for a 15", the 4cu.ft for an 18". Erich's a pretty accomodating guy, so if you ask nicely he may be willing to have a baffle for an 18 box cut for a 15" driver. Or, if 3cu.ft. is fine for you, no reason not to get one or two. They look really nice, don't they? The rabbets make assembly really easy, you'll just need a couple of 24" clamps and some wood glue.
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post #236 of 302
3/28/13 at 1:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

Anywhere from 3cu.ft.up to 4cu.ft. is good, 4 being better because the driver will require less power from the amp, giving you a little more headroom. The problem with Erich's flatpacks, therefore, is that the 3cu.ft. box has a cutout for a 15", the 4cu.ft for an 18". Erich's a pretty accomodating guy, so if you ask nicely he may be willing to have a baffle for an 18 box cut for a 15" driver. Or, if 3cu.ft. is fine for you, no reason not to get one or two. They look really nice, don't they? The rabbets make assembly really easy, you'll just need a couple of 24" clamps and some wood glue.

Thanks. I saw your posts in the other thread as well. I think I'll go with the 3cu.ft so it's not as big and passes the WAF - much like the E15. I emailed Brian and he said they would be fine, but to just make sure the driver cut-outs will work and it sounds like they will.
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post #237 of 302
3/29/13 at 6:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLaw612 View Post

Thanks. I saw your posts in the other thread as well. I think I'll go with the 3cu.ft so it's not as big and passes the WAF - much like the E15. I emailed Brian and he said they would be fine, but to just make sure the driver cut-outs will work and it sounds like they will.

Thar's great, because Erich's 3 cu.ft. flat pack gives you a driver cut-out option for the Dayton 15" RS driver, which has the same mounting specs as the Rythmik 15---14 1/16" through hole, 15.4" mounting flange recess with 0.4" depth (the Rythmik calls for 15 5/16 and 3/8---very close to identical). The flat packs are really nice, and an unbelievably good deal. If I was going with 3 cu.ft. I'd snap up a pair myself. And Erich is a great guy to deal with!
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post #238 of 302
3/29/13 at 9:08pm
WOW,
OK, I completed one of my DS1510 kits/enclosure tonight. Had to purchase a bit more poly fill as I believe what comes with the kit is enough for a 3 cubic ft box but not 4.. I am completely pleased with my work as well as the kit. My box design was a Rythmik 4 cubic foot 1501 front firing type, just modified to my height, width and depth desires - while maintaining the exact volume figures etc. I'll admit it turned out very solid - and heavy.. However, mine would feel like they were made out of "balsa wood" compared to the beasts BDP24 is constructing. biggrin.gif

Now for the really good part. I dollied the one beast into the theater, placed it on a towel, did a temp setup of the amp and plugged her in. Spooled up WOTW and put a smile on my face. The 1510 wasn't even in its sweet spot, rather just to the inside of one of my mains up front. No AVR tweaking, just plugged the LFE in and selected the track we all know best.. My "chubby F-15HP" as I call it came alive with authority.

"Chubby F-15HP" #2 has about three hours of work remaining yet tomorrow afternoon both will be in the theater and breathing. My brain will then explode while trying to blend everything appropriately..... biggrin.gif

I also need to complete the grills and outer "socks" for the boxes.

My next search will probably be DIY - Sheetrock repair.....

More later.

Cheers
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post #239 of 302
3/30/13 at 12:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

WOW,
OK, I completed one of my DS1510 kits/enclosure tonight. Had to purchase a bit more poly fill as I believe what comes with the kit is enough for a 3 cubic ft box but not 4.. I am completely pleased with my work as well as the kit. My box design was a Rythmik 4 cubic foot 1501 front firing type, just modified to my height, width and depth desires - while maintaining the exact volume figures etc. I'll admit it turned out very solid - and heavy.. However, mine would feel like they were made out of "balsa wood" compared to the beasts BDP24 is constructing. biggrin.gif

Now for the really good part. I dollied the one beast into the theater, placed it on a towel, did a temp setup of the amp and plugged her in. Spooled up WOTW and put a smile on my face. The 1510 wasn't even in its sweet spot, rather just to the inside of one of my mains up front. No AVR tweaking, just plugged the LFE in and selected the track we all know best.. My "chubby F-15HP" as I call it came alive with authority.

"Chubby F-15HP" #2 has about three hours of work remaining yet tomorrow afternoon both will be in the theater and breathing. My brain will then explode while trying to blend everything appropriately..... biggrin.gif

I also need to complete the grills and outer "socks" for the boxes.

My next search will probably be DIY - Sheetrock repair.....

More later.

Cheers

Didn't the DS1510 look incredible when you unboxed it? Pictures don't do it justice! My flat pack is done, I'm picking it up tomorrow. Joel lives close enough to me that the gas to drive over to him will cost less than the shipping would. Plus, no worries about damage while in transit!
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post #240 of 302
3/30/13 at 9:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post

Didn't the DS1510 look incredible when you unboxed it? Pictures don't do it justice! My flat pack is done, I'm picking it up tomorrow. Joel lives close enough to me that the gas to drive over to him will cost less than the shipping would. Plus, no worries about damage while in transit!

Well, let the gluing begin! I used a tad over three bottles of Titebond III. Yes I spread glue on both sides of the joint and did have some waste yet I predict about 5, maybe 6 bottles of glue for your double boxes BDP.. biggrin.gif

I just finished sub number two this morning. Need to get my son to help me dolly it into the house and position in the HT. Get this, last night while quickly setting up number one - even though impressive sounding I realized this morning I had the gain knob at -12.. And when prepping to install the amp in number two this morning I also thought I had left my flashlight and mirror "in" number one... I was like: did I really do that? Found them in the HT room however - I laughed..

And yes, I've played with speakers and have eyeballed many a woofer yet opening the box from Brian was a delight. I even mentioned above where my dad, not a speaker guy, thought they were totally awesome and a thing of beauty.

Anyway, they both turned out great, just need to integrate them now and keep the WAF in check.. I did take pictures along the way and will get them on PB so I can post a few.

Cheers
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Official Rythmik Audio DIY Subwoofer Kit thread