The picture would go out 5-10 minutes every time. I don't have a warranty, but what I did to fix it was switch the power save to high and turn the tv volume all the way down (not your speaker setup). Now it hasn't went off once. Sure, the picture is darker now that it has been set to high power save, but it works.
What does this mean? What part is it that needs to be fixed
probably bad power supply, Samsung's as well as other LCD's have a tendency to have electrolytic capacitors go out on them and when they do it usually causes these kinds of problems
probably bad power supply, Samsung's as well as other LCD's have a tendency to have electrolytic capacitors go out on them and when they do it usually causes these kinds of problems
Interesting. Do you have any idea on how much it will cost to repair? It's a 26" lns2651d.
When the picture went out I wasn't able to see any back lights.
Interesting. Do you have any idea on how much it will cost to repair? It's a 26" lns2651d.
When the picture went out I wasn't able to see any back lights.
if its capacitors and you do it yourself its pretty cheap say 20 dollars tops in parts
if you take it to a repair shop you might as well buy a new TV they will either take the easy expensive route and buy a new power supply or just replace the caps either way they are going to charge you at least a couple hundred bucks or more
screw that. Any idea on where to buy the parts to get started?
do you have experience soldering on electronics and have an iron and some form of a de-soldering tool? (solder sucker, copper wick)
if you do not have much experience in this area you may want to think twice about trying it or at least find someone you know that does have some to help or guide you.
its not hard to replace capacitors on a power supply but if you go into doing this for the first time never having any basic electronics experience you could easily damage more than already is damaged etc.
here is a decent video guide a guy made of fixing bad caps in his samsung TV
as for where to find the capacitors if that even is your problem, a visual inspection of the power supply should tell you what caps are bad by visible bulging of the tops/bottoms of the caps. you must replace them with capacitors of an equal farad value (2200uF etc. for an example of a common capacitance rating) the voltage rating needs to be equal or greater than what is on the power supply but keep in mind that high voltage rated capacitors are usually larger and may or may not fit.
most important of all make sure to put the lead marked negative to the connection marked negative on the PCB. if you stick in in with the polaity reversed it will cause damage to the power supply and likely also result in the capacitor exploding and catching fire so be warned.
Fry's electronics if you have one in your area usually has a decent supply of common electronic components, radio shack's may still have some they used to carry a lot but these days i think they do not carry as much as they used to. you can also try the phone book or google for an electronics's supply shop. they are not as common as they used to be back in the 90's but some are still around
otherwise on the internet there are plenty of them mouser electronics's is probably one of the largest ones with extensive amounts of parts http://www.mouser.com/
The picture would go out 5-10 minutes every time. I don't have a warranty, but what I did to fix it was switch the power save to high and turn the tv volume all the way down (not your speaker setup). Now it hasn't went off once. Sure, the picture is darker now that it has been set to high power save, but it works.
What does this mean? What part is it that needs to be fixed
Turning the backlight down will reduce the current draw from the inverter and power supply. You may have either faulty backlight system - TV shuts down because of that, or the increased current draw from the inverter puts stress on switched mode power supply. If the caps look okay and the TV keeps shutting down when you increase backlight level, try replacing inverter board and check CCFL tubes.
To check the backlight, switch to HDMI source but do not feed any signal. Start increasing the backlight and observe if there is any horizontal area on screen that looks duller. If you see such area, one CCFL tube (or more) has failed. This is possible but very unlikely. If everything looks good and backlight uniformity looks okay, continue increasing backlight level and see if the TV shuts down. If it does - replace the inverter board.
Turning the backlight down will reduce the current draw from the inverter and power supply. You may have either faulty backlight system - TV shuts down because of that, or the increased current draw from the inverter puts stress on switched mode power supply. If the caps look okay and the TV keeps shutting down when you increase backlight level, try replacing inverter board and check CCFL tubes.
To check the backlight, switch to HDMI source but do not feed any signal. Start increasing the backlight and observe if there is any horizontal area on screen that looks duller. If you see such area, one CCFL tube (or more) has failed. This is possible but very unlikely. If everything looks good and backlight uniformity looks okay, continue increasing backlight level and see if the TV shuts down. If it does – replace the inverter board.
Boky
I can't check right now since I'm at work, but when the picture goes out I can't see any backlight at all. Does this mean it's the panel?
Replace power supply/inverter board if there is no solder fracture or bulging capacitors. This is possible not symptom of bad capacitors if there are no bulging capacitors in that area. We seen this before, very intermittent failure in backlight inverter in very few units.
Before deciding what to do next, check all transformers' solder joints also look at the inverter lamp transformer solder joints, rarely we see one bad joint there. Just in case, check all transformers, usually I see one solder fracture there. Also inspect Lamp inverter transformer(s), some of pins is covered by the plastic cover that clips on, unclip to check all pins, solder fracture is on outside around the brass eyelet where it meet the solder eyelet track.
