Originally Posted by Hi Def Fan
If all that's needed is a Nokia data cable, why can't you just use one of the Nokia cables that has a mini plug on one end and USB on the other vs "building" one? Or can you? I did see one on Deals Extreme that runs about $5.
The models of Nokia cable I looked at on that site seem to all use a micro USB plug. From what I've read though you need a miniature 6 pin plug, and USB is only 4 pin.
I've seen pre-made DIY kits, some under $10, but they are the older style for serial port vs USB. The ones for USB are $25 or more. $5 seems unrealistic given what people are charging for DIY mini 6-pin/USB kits.
Are you saying if I get the right data cable I can just solder a USB plug to the other end of it? If so, is there any guides on how to do that, and can you tell me what model of cable I need?
I use the term "build" very loosely. With the Nokia cable, you are correct, it needs the right 6-pin connector at the end as well as a 4 conductor cable. I just pop open the USB end, solder on a pair of old CD-ROM audio cables from an old computer. Glue the 2 of them back to back, and you've got a 6-pin connector.
Older USB solutions were quite expensive because of the expense of the chip and complexity of the circuit. Now that we've recently found cheap Chinese ones mostly pre-made, prices have dropped dramatically and assembly became much easier.
However, one of our members recently found the easiest solution of all, if you can handle the $12 cost. Details are HERE
. There are guides or at least detailed threads for all our designs. Just look in our file section or follow the links in the interface threads.
I was concerned there might be a lot of hex editing because a lot of people say they have to refer to the JP1 forums extensively to get their remotes programmed properly.
We use a lot of codes mainly for the benefit of people who don't have JP1 cables. If you use the software, you only occasionally deal with numbers. Of course the brain trust that develop our software, and reverse engineer protocols and remotes use hex quite a lot. But the average JP1 user can get away with never dealing with hex and only using codes when creating a brand new device.
The way it usually goes is you get your remote, cable and software, the find upgrade files for all your devices on our site and load them into your remote as-is, with some minor changes per your personal preferences (change the button layout the way you like). When you encounter a new device that's not in our database, you'll learn all the commands from the original remote and make your own upgrade file with our tools. Our software analyzes your learns and spits out a 2 digit decimal number for each command which you need to type or paste into your upgrade file. So it's pretty simple. Most of the time you'll use upgrades created by others since most models within a brand use the same codes year after year. In the 10 years I've been doing this, I'd say 90% of the time any upgrade I needed already existed. When a new model comes out with a few new functions, I only have to add those new ones, not start completely from scratch.
While not as flexible, harmony software is easier overall. And the price is about the same as JP1 at the low end ($50 for a harmony 600 versus $20-$45 for a JP1 remote plus a cable). So if JP1 seems too complicated, any harmony except the 200 or 300 is a good alternative for most people. But as I said before, even without JP1 software or a JP1 cable, the RCA is far more powerful and flexible than a harmony 200 or 300. The URC WR7 is closer in functionality. The lack of discrete codes and no computer program-ability are the biggest drawbacks IMO.