Originally Posted by videoquest
Ok. Tried the calibrated settings above and they werent great either. Whites were yellow and overall the colors just didnt look right. Maybe its me or my set. I will say the settings near 195 worked the best in cinema mode. The APS mode actually isnt that bad either.
Out of the box my LGPJ350 wasn't bad, but it wasn't really good either.
After a month of so of letting the phosphors burn during normal usage and watching, I calibrated the greyscale using an inexpensive colorimeter (an Eye One Display LT, a/k/a i1 LT) and the free HCFR software with a netbook. You can't calibrate a display without some kind of calibration hardware, as our eyes adapt easily and are unreliable for calibrating to a standard.
You have to choose the Expert setting in order to get to the CMS controls to set your greyscale. See the calibration forum at AVS for information on what greyscale is and why it is important. I chose the twenty-point method rather than the two-point method. It takes a couple of hours or more to do it correctly, and that's just for a first run. I waited a few days and ran through it again, fine tuning my adjustments. My colorimeter's red sensors tend to read too low, resulting in a pinkish/reddish tint to everything when calibrating using the HCFR software.
My deltaEs were under 3 for every IRE level above 30, except for 40, which has a weird red deficiency, but this is still a very good result. Gamma is 2.25, which is very good. Because of the pinkish cast, I had to make my own offset using a sort of Kentucky windage. That is to say I didn't use a calculator or spreadsheet; I estimated my red readings as being about 5% off, and adjusted the red levels lower accordingly, and correspondingly I bumped up the blue levels slightly in the same places. I left green alone. This rather unscientific approach has largely corrected my pinkish cast at all IRE levels, so I think it has balanced out quite nicely.
What's the end result? The greyscale looks very neutral at all IRE levels, resulting in outstanding shadow detail and black levels. I can post a detailed list of my own settings later, but keep in mind that calibrating a display requires doing it on your own TV, in your own setting, with your own lighting conditions. Even the color of your surrounding walls and furnishings can affect the result.
For now, I can tell you that in very low light conditions my basic settings are as follows:
I suspect those with Brightness levels way below 50 are getting severe black crush. With my contrast setting at 77, I'm reading about 32-34 ftL of light on a 100% IRE window, which is within the target 30-40 ftL you want on a plasma TV. I set my brightness by multiplying .0065 by the Y level at 100%. That gave me the target Y level when I displayed a 10% IRE window. The 56-57 level was almost dead on the target.
I haven't adjusted the individual saturation or tint settings for the primary or secondary colors yet. That will probably come next after another iteration of my greyscale settings. For now, I'm very pleased with the vastly improved shadow detail and black levels and neutrality of whites I've achieved.
If you want to get the most out of your plasma, you might look into getting a cheap colorimeter and monkeying around with it. It truly makes a big difference once you figure out what you're doing. Either that, or pay an ISF or THX certified calibrator to come do it for you. Everything else is just guessing. Good luck.