Originally Posted by 230-SEAN
Very interesting, thanks for the reply!
The two combos I mentioned before on the chip card are as follows:"White"
Basecoat: DC432 Artist's White
Topcoat: ME15 Pearl Luster"Platinum"
Basecoat: DC485 Platinum Band
Topcoat: ME08 Silver Lining
The basecoats are not metallic, and the Chip Code #s are simply a Reference number.
The "Artist's White" is consider an appropriate shade that will not bleed through or discolor the Pearl. Likewise the Platinum. Both are simply color tinted Mixes.
Directions on card are basically lay the basecoat down, wait at least 24 hours, then lay the topcoat on, then you're done.
One would have to be very fortunate...and skillful...and more than a bit lucky to apply such paints unadulterated, and in one coat, and have a uniform surface. But really, it doesn't matter in in this case, as neither is applicable as a screen surface in their pure form. They are "Decor Oriented" finishes and possess far too much sheen to work as a reflective screen surface.
So the "metallic" features of these paints appear to be the two that you have mentioned, but have different product #s, maybe this card is old.
I'd venture to say that the product numbers for the Dutch Boy metallics you listed is proprietary as to being a Menards #....not a Dutch Boy #, because the numbers I gave you come directly off the DB 1 Gallon Tubs. You find that number directly at center on the label, and below the Product "Name" (ie: Silver Lining)
Also, as you can see the platinum I was talking about is a base color rather than a metallic additive. Was this the same platinum you were talking about in your post, or is there a different one that you have used?
2 years ago they had a actual Platinum White, so I though you were referring to that. It never was a consideration anyway. I see now that by your description, they determined the best way to effect the Color/effect they intended was to use a very light Gray base, and have the Customer apply a semi-translucent coating of Silver Lining that would impart the desired color & additional reflectivity.
Another question, when you say "mixes" do you literally mean that what I stated as a base and top coat are mixed together and applied as one? Or do you mean as I mentioned above, basecoat-let-dry-topcoat? Thanks!
Almost every DIY Screen application used by members on this Forum employs a "Base" Most often it is painted on, but for those who use materials that already have a Flat/Matte/Semi-Gloss/Gloss White finish, if they are spraying, such ?Mixes" can apply directly over such surfaces.
Rolling over those sort of surfaces is dependent upon the use of Foam Finish Rollers and a deft touch with a Roller. Since many lack that ability, often they prime such surfaces.
The "Mixes" I referred to are a combination of paints, additives and tints. Usually within a ratio of 25-30% of each REFLECTIVE paint and subsequently smaller amounts of other varied ingredients (Water-Polyurethane-Corrective Metallic tints)
But in a way you are correct....because initially, that old Girl MississippiMud was in effect a combination of a white Base and a reflective Metallic Topcoat. The current advanced mixes all contain a degree of "White" within them. None are pure metallic.
OK...now my turn.
Exactly what are you trying to / hoping to accomplish? Pretty much anything and everything you could consider has been considered and an effort made toward making such a reality.
Whatcha' wanna do?