Originally Posted by shujin
I wouldn't link the amps power supply to the distortion level of the amp. Yes torroidal power supplies due tend to increase the cost of the amp but that is because of the cost to make a torroidal transformer. If you look at most of the new amps that are available today you will see that most contain power supplies that are similar to pc power supplies. This is because of two things, cost, and efficiency. Pc power supplies are called switching power supplies because they use transistors that turn off and on at a high rate to produce the desired dc output. These power supplies do not require big large transformers and some don't even contain a transformer (I.e. The amp in the paradigm signature 15 sub). If you find a good sub amp that doesn't have a torroidal transformer wouldn't right it off as a not buy. It just uses different power supply technology to from a dc voltage from an ac source.
I agree completely that new tecnology is not something to be disregarded. But it is a fact that torroidal power supplies eliminate much of the distortion found in standard power supplies, which unfortunately, most subs have. Torroidal power supplies are used in power conditioners for the lack of noise, and they are also used in high quality amplifiers like Emotiva. I have heard identical output plate amps, one with the standard square power supply, and one with a torroidal supply. Both used identical cabinets and drivers. The torroidal equipped plate amp was clearly (both figuritively and literally
) the better of the two. This was a couple of years ago however, and maybe things have changed, but I'm still sold on torroidal since I see them still being used in high quality applications over a switched power supply in the lower quality models.
Originally Posted by wwinkler
You might want to look at different plate amps to determine if you can find one that almost precisely matches the size of your existing amp.
Last month, I used a 500w PE BASH amp to replace a 9+ year old amp on a JBL PSW-D115. My son who is very good at cabinet making and has done many car audio installs wanted to take the subwoofer to a friend's woodworking shop. I suggested using 2"x4"s in a rectangular shape that was glued to the back of the subwoofer. The old amp was 7"x13" whereas the new amp is 8"x12". I can only turn the new amp to 1/4 power.
Because of high hourly labor costs, having a subwoofer repaired may not be cost-effective. The PE 300w BASH amp is ~$150.
If there are obvious burn marks on a few parts on the amp, then it might be straightforward to do a repair yourself; else you would likely need a service manual to meticulously go through the process of locating the defective parts.
Yes, the Dayton 300S Bash amp is what I am leaning towards getting for a replacement. I heard back from the maker of my sub amp and was quoted a flat repair cost, regardless of the issue, of $80 + shipping to the repair facility. Return shipping is complimentary. I would still have $100 into this amp, which I do love but is 3 years old and could fail again just as easily as it just did, OR the alternative is I drive to Dayton (I live about 1/2 hour from PE) and buy the Bash 300S for a total cost of $160+ $5 for gas and have a year warranty, VS. no warranty on my repaired amp. I'm one to spend a few extra bucks to repair what I love, but I have been burned one too many times with something else failing in the past, I would ultimately save money just buying new.
I would buy the 500 watt non Bash amp if I had the cash, easily. I just can't afford it. I have the driver (this is a DIY sub BTW) that would easily handle the power, but the best I can afford is 300 watts which the driver seems to take so easily and my house feels literally like an earthquake. In fact, my wife is still pissed off at me for the sub causing a very sentimental, old and irreplacable vase from her father who has passed, to fall and crack. My only saving grace is that the vase did not shatter, But I hear about it everytime she looks at it, which is often. I will take this shame (translated as pride the sub was able to do what it did from so far away
) to my grave, she has made sure I know this.
Originally Posted by Steve_M
I think it's unfortunate that PE calls their BASH amps digital, when nothing could be further from the truth.
It's also unfortunate that people like those at O audio keep calling class D digital when in fact the D does not stand for digital or anything else. It is merely a classification. Class D is not digital. It is PWM, which is an analog process.
I thought class A/B, class D and so on were just designations for the type of amp and its output, not digital or analog? However, with the 300S being my first encounter with a digital amp, I'm interested why you say it is not what it is described as? I understand PWM from my model railroading days as being Pulse Width Modulation. But the PE description mentions nothing of the sort.