Official Samsung LNxxC630 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 6

Yuck... another reason for me not to upgrade. I was curious on if I should...

Skibum, the settings I used of yours earlier looked great to the eye, but failed just about every lagom test on my set.


I think this is just more proof that there is a large variance from set to set (plus I have an SQ01 and there are no verticle lines or any other issues that some have reported on mine, guess I got lucky ), and really the only way to get a good picture is to try it yourself. Or just keep messing with other peoples settings and changing little bits here and there.


Anyway, I just did a couple basic changes and got some pretty good results with lagom after about 30 minutes of messing with it. The color contrast test is almost perfect, I can see all 32 shades accept for blue. The last two are the same and the first two are really hard to see. Gamma is perfect for red, and pretty good for green at 48%. Blue is hard to tell, as its blended from about 1.5-2.5 with no variation. White is closer to 2 then 2.25, but pretty good none the less. None of the 25% or 10% ones blend at all though.

The rest of the tests are within 95% of perfect though. Accept for sharpness which seems to be a lost cause. After Lagom, I used Avatar BR to test color and brightness which seemed great, and True Blood HD for skin tones (Sooki has a good natural skin tone).


These are what worked for me using HDMI 3 with my HTPC, and had ATI driver set to full RGB. All dark room, sitting about 8 feet away. Mostly film based content at 1080/24P.


Mode - Movie
Backlight - 5
Contrast - 94
Brightness - 55
Sharpness - 50
Color - 50
Tint - 50/50
ECO - All Off

Black Tone - Off
Dynamic Contrast - Off
Shadow Detail - 0
Gamma - -1
Color Space - Custom (each color settings default)

White Balance
R-Offset - 23
G-Offset - 22
B-Offset - 25
R-Gain - 25
G-Gain - 25
B-Gain - 25

10p WB - Off
Flesh Tone - 0
Edge Enhancement - Off

Color Tone - Warm2
Size - 16:9
Digital Noise Filter - Off
MPEG Noise Filter - Off
HDMI Black Level - Low
Auto Motion Plus - Off

Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post
hmm my calibration settings are all wacked

went to compared my DTP94 to another and both said it has well too much red (which i kept thinking myself the last few days)

i did update firmware a week ago (i did reset all settings as before, every last one)

either the firmware settings can affect calibrations ugh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what a pain!!!!!!!!!!

or something drifted rather a lot in my set over the last few weeks


either way none of my posted settings work all that well for my set anymore


i'm suspicious of the firmware update, maybe they decided to correct a bit for stock settings being too cool and added red??



disturbingly an eyeone 2 from NEC gave rather different WB results than either of the two DTP94, it claimed blue was lacking not green and blue, to my eye the DTP94 readings make more sense, hope it's just because it was a special NEC puck (adjusted to also work with wide gamuts) and not that eyeone 2's stink


My picture has gotten redder also and my set came with the latest firmware i think it just drifts after awhile

you shouldn't be using sharpness above 0 with a digital input, sharpness makes sense for analog inputs

i doubt that you should use HDMI Low for a computer input, that has to crush your desktop, that restricts the set to black=16 and white=235 instead of the full PC range of 0=black 255=white maybe that is why you turned brightness way up to 45 to try to counteract that a bit


anyway either my set suddenly shifted or going form firmware 1007 to 1021 totally changed the calibration on my set, my old settings for 10pt WB, WB are messed up now. i'm working on a new set. it's also possible the striping on my set alters things too, since if every other line is either doing too little or too much green i'm sure the settings wouldn't be able to match up well to a set with no striping (unless it happened that even lines were too much and odd too little and it all balanced out)

i might not bother too much now since i'm annoyed enough with the striping to start demanding either a new panel or a reasonable explanation for why they decided to make some panels do even and odd scalines lines at slightly different shades and dont want to waste too much time on something that might get replaced

some quick and dirty updates for my now firmware 1021 set are do everything the same as in my last set of values but change WB and 10pt WB to:

brightness 44 change to 45 now
WB change to RGB offsets: 25,24,24 RGBGains:20,27,27
10pt WB (R,G,B):
1 9,7,9
2 3,3,4
3 1,0,-1
4 3,2,-2
5 3,2,-1
6 5,4,0
7 6,6,2
8 4,6,5
9 4,5,4
10 0,2,-3

(most of these are all so high now that I think i'm now better going back and starting with gamma +1 instead of 0, but for now the above values are for gamma 0)


still not sure why i suddenly needed to change WB so much, but since both probes give very simialr results i dont think it could be my main probe breaking my best guess is the change in firmware from 1007 to 1021, if not that then something is really going wrong with my set since there is no way the calibration should shift that much in just a couple of weeks!

interesting, if so, these sets are drifting a hell of a lot, most sets normally take like a year or two to drift this much not 2-3 weeks. maybe they settle in after a month or two??

it seemed more like mine shifted after the new firmware but i'm not 100% sure though

anyway even my gamma totally shifted too, my old settings are just way totally off now

anyway i would hate to not own calib equipment and have paid someone like $400 and then had it drift way out of wack just 2-3 weeks later, maybe a word of warning to not pay for calibration until you have run the set for 2-3 months?

I have the display drivers set to full RGB, so I thought when using RGB it should be set to low. I dont care about desktop use, as that PC is only for watching movies.

I never notice any change in sharpness at all, accept at where I sit with it turned up a little bit it makes text a little easier to see. Does it do anything harmful to the picture?

If you have the Nvidia video part set to Full (0-255) then you 100% need to be using HDMI Black Level - Normal. By setting it to slow, you just clipped away the bottom and top 16 shades. Raising brightness way high to 55 may have brought back some of the lost shades on the bottom end, but probably not all and maybe makes other problems with gamma and it does not restore your top 16 missing shades of brights.

Digital signal gets transmitted perfectly to the set, sharpness just basically damages the signal. If you were using component or especially say composite the analog signal has only so much bandwidth during D/A and then A/D and you lose some detail so turning up sharpness (a little) can help reduce the softening effect a bit.

What if I set the RGB to limited? I have the option of RGB limited or full, and two options for Ypbpr.
ATI CCC btw.

Set sharpness down to 0, changed black level to normal, Gamma to 0, brightness to 45 and contrast to 95. Gamma is nearly perfect now, I can see all the boxes on the black and white level tests, and color gamma is slightly better, almost perfect.

Thanks

here are some new settings, these one are for a 55" SQ01-2010 with striping that has broken in for over a month and been upgraded to firmware 1021 your mileage may vary (my last full set were the above only firmware 1007 and only broken in a couple weeks):

movie mode
backlight 6
contrast 90 (tehcnically it probably bumps up the top few shades a bit much and maybe 86 or something would be more techincally correct if with less pop but whatever maybe i'll try that some other time)

contrast 90
brightness 44
sharpness 0
color 51
tint 50/50
eco off
black tone off
dynamic off
shadow detail 0
gamma +1
color space custom - use the same values as in my most recent posting that has them, make sure to change them to those settings
actually here they are again:
R 37,1,0
G 28,50,1
B 4,5,59
C 18,52,61
M 39,3,55
Y 50,50,1
WB offsets r,g,b 25,24,24
gains 20,27,27
10pwb level,r,g,b:
1 7,4,6
2 0,-1,0
3 -4,-5,-6
4 -3,-4,-7
5 -1,-3,-6
6 -1,-1,-6
7 1,1,-3
8 0,2,-1
9 1,3,1
10 1,1,1
flesh tone 0
edge off
warm2
screen fit
DNR off
MPEG DNR off
hdmi black level as needed (Normal for most PC stuff, Low for most other stuff; Normal when you send it 0-255 and Low when you send it 16-235)

HI guys,

Where the sharpness level should be for a Ps3 using Hdmi and why if you dont mind explaining.
Ihave Ln46c630 SQ01.

Thanks

0 for digital source, digital inputs already transfer the image over perfectly and added sharpening will just damage the signal

use sharpness for analog inputs, a little bit for component input and a greater amount for s-video and an even greater amount for composite input (but even it's better to not go too wild)

Does any-one have any CN01 Panel settings I can use for me C6530?

Hey Guys....
I'm looking for the best setup for a sq01 LN46C610 panel.....any advice? specifically for gaming and blu rays

Thanks!

These tv's come with the test patterns and built in RGB filters but, no instructions as to how to use them. What is Samsung thinking? If your gonna include the tools, you should include the instructions/training for using them. Even just pics of what the color pattern should look like with the filters applied when it's set correctly. Can anyone help me out here? Should the color pattern with the red filter applied look red (same shade) everywhere and black (uniformly) where it is black? Same for the blue and green filters? If so the settings posted in the calibration thread are close but, not correct for my environment and tv. any comments or help would be appreciated.

skibum o tried your settings and they actuly worked very well , but i have sharpness at 30 so i have to lower it to cero right

Hey gang,

Just a quick question that for some reason I couldn't find an answer to using the search engine. How do you know which panel type you have for a particular tv. My neighbor has an LN55C630 and he wants me to at least do an Avia/DVE calibration on it, but I thought I may take a peek at using skibum's settings too to see what they look like, but I keep seeing that certain settings are better for panel A vs. panel B types.

Thanks,
Jeff

There is a sticker on the side of the TV or on the box if he still has it.

bguzman

Ahh, ok. Thanks for the tip on the sticker. The box is long gone, but I can check out the tv later today. Thanks!

Regs,
Jeff

Bought the LN46C630 and it has an AC04 panel. I bought it online but chose in store pickup from a local retailer, I was upset because I was hoping for an S panel, but I haven't noticed any Flashlighting and the picture looks pretty good. I used Skibum's settings and they actually look pretty good on this panel.

What are some good Blu-Rays to test out to see if I like the color settings? I own a lot of blu-rays so if you mention a few, I am likely to own one.

anyone?

cam some one please post there game mode settings thanks

I'm finding that Movie mode is just too dull for me...dynamic and natural seem to be the best in my opinion. However, it seems all of your calibration settings are based on Movie mode...does anyone have some good ones for one of the other modes?

Calibrating in the movie mode is all about getting as close to SMPTE standards as possible. The movie mode often offers more tools then other modes.

Playing with the controls to get a picture that suits your eye is fine and dandy but it is by no means "calibrating". Play away.

im using sharpness at 30 and i like how it looks , why is it that its better to have it at 0 and anohter question what are the best settings fore game mode and watching normal cable tv thanks

quick question for the following settings: which firmware is this on? i'm on 1006.1 on the ln40c630 SQ02, and i've tried buzzard767's numbers, but the red/magenta push was pretty apparent - skibum's numbers on the other hand have been working great for me. thanks in advance.

Skibum updated his for 1006, but you probably already knew that.

Mmmmm. If I didn't post it, I don't know. The TV is in Florida and I won't be back down there until October.

Buzz

46c630 sq02 panel any setting or other recommendations for pc have it hookedup through hdmi2 and i game on it and watch avi,mkv files and game online through it. Should i use hdmi1 instead since i game on pc i heard it has better response speed ??

How about for ps3 for watching dvds or playing games have it hooked up through hdmi1. (turned on game mode for playing to reduce lag ive read about)

Hello, i'm new here.
I spent a lot of time here reading calibration posts to tweak my new LN46c610 (AA02 panel) but have to yet to find something that fits my needs.

My PS3 and Pace2 HDTV both go through my HK Avr 254 via HDMI (with HDTV also hooked thru components... when i'm not turning the amp on).

None of the settings i've read here and tried so far have worked on this screen (they just make the image look dark and dull).

I thought at first that the AVR relay was responsible (ie changing panel settings would just ad to the already modified source-- avr tweaked settings) but then tried calibrating my HDTV with componants: Same results. For instance, setting the backlight to anything lower than 10 makes the whites greyish and dull...

I can't seem to calibrate this perfectly and i know i'm not getting as much as i should from this set. Now, i've set everything back to original "right out of the box" settings and consider returning this set back to the store.

Question: should i send all signals directly from the source to the C610 thru HDMI (there's no bypass on the AVR )
if so, will optical or coaxial be able to carry True HD and DTS HD to the Harman AVR 254?