Official Samsung LNxxC630 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 14

Thought i'd share my settings for a 60C630. It is an FB01 panel. Did my settings while using the DVE blu-ray

Mode: movie
Backlight: 8
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 48
Sharpness: 34 (below this and the image gets fuzzy...above produces ringing)
Color: 49
Tint: G52/R48
Eco solution: off

Advanced settings
Black tone: off
Dynamic contrast: off
Shadow detail: 0
Gamma: -2
Color space: auto
White balance: default
10p white balance: off
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: off
xvYCC: on

Picture options
Color tone: warm2
Size: screen fit
Digital noise filter: off
Mpeg noise filter: off
Auto motion plus: off or custom (blur reduction 10, judder reduction 3)

Hope others can take some advantage of these settings and if you have something to add to these settings, I'd love to hear it

I've had both versions of the 40C630 (AA01 and SQ02) and the AA01 looked way sharper to my eyes, even though the SQ02 has better blacks. I've compared the SQ02 side-by-side with my lowly 46B500 (AA01) and the B500 also looks sharper. The difference is really noticeable with SD sources.

My assumption is that the rectangular subpixel structure of AMVA3 panels ||| is superior to the older type of S-PVA matrix, which uses wedge-shaped subpixels >>>. Of course it's possible that the outsourced AUO panels simply come with a better graphic processor.

Did you use a light meter ? or just eyeball it with the DVE disc ?

J.

Mike, since you've had both A and S panels, I know you've noted that the off angle viewing on the S was better, but how much better are we talking? Slightly better? A lot better? And how would you compare the A panel to other TVs in general? And didn't you determine that the SQ01 panels were the newer pixel type?

The only things you can do without a meter are black level (brightness) and white level (contrast). Granted, you can use the color bars and a blue filter to help with saturation and hue, but every time I've done that followed by meter measurements it never turned out as close as I'd like but probably a lot better than the factory setup. Those two items are where calibration begins. Beyond that you need a meter and software for:

1. Grayscale (either 2 point or 10 point white balance - and oddly enough the 630's offer both).
2. Color Gamut - a)saturation b)hue c)luminance - Color Space on the 630 but the adjustment is done with R,G,B. x,y,Y is easier IMO because of direct control over luminance.
3. Gamma - an often very tricky combination of all of the above which is greatly aided if there are x,y,Y grayscale adjustments available.

No light meter...just used DVE

My current situation means I can't afford a light meter right now ... otherwise I'd get an EYE-ONE meter and calibrate it myself.

Sooo .... Still awaiting a full blown metered calibration for the LN60C630 ...

j.

Waiting eagerly and patiently for your next numbers!

Unfortunately for me , buzzard doesn't have the LN60c630 ... the 60 incher is Sharp based ... i.e. as such mine is a completely different panel than his ... sigh ...

The iD2, at least the one I got, is not much use unless you calibrate it against a reference meter, which in my case is an i1Pro. It looks like the Chroma 5 Pro you recommend comes with offsets applied, which would be a significanty less expensive way to go. I'm still struggling with my color calibration. I get the grayscale perfect, then move on to the gamut. When I optimize the gamut, the grayscale is all over the place and beyond repair, and the picture is terrible. With a clean gray scale, the picture is very nice, even thought gamut numbers aren't good. So I guess haven't figured out the strategy yet for getting the best combination of grayscale and gamut.

It's the ChromaPure Chroma 5 "Pro" model and does include offsets for various types of displays including Samsung DLPs. The last time I calibrated the 40C630 using the offset I was a little bit rushed so although the finished product was quite good, the gamma needs work. The i1Pro will give me an offset for my particular set instead of "generic" Sammy LCD's so accuracy should be improved. I'm going to shoot for a 2.22 gamma and this should brighten the picture a little.

I would appreciate it if anyone can coach me how to best set up my PS3 for blu ray playback.

Currently my settings are as follows (connected to HDMI1 in non-pc mode)

Video Settings
BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI) y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr
BD 1080p 24hz Output (HDMI) Automatic

Display Settings
Cross Color Reduction Filter off
RGB Full Range (HDMI) Limited
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI) On
Deep Color Output (HDMI) Automatic

Earlier in the post in was mentioned that HDMI Black Level is greyed out when the signal is not RGB. That got me wondering, should I be in RGB?

Any tips would be welcome.

In addition, I use my PS3 to stream HD (mkv) content from my laptop.

Edit

I just realized that while the PS3 is in XMB and in the process of playing games, HDMI black level is not greyed out and automatically sets to low, presumably because the TV knows the PS3 is set to RGB Limited.

Unless there is another reason I'm overlooking, I'll keep my settings as posted above.

None of these TVs look all that great from more than about 30 degrees off center. The S is better than the A, but there's really not a huge difference. If off angle viewing is important, you're probably better off going with a plasma display.


It has the best *resolution* of any LCD I've seen, but I haven't seen any 7 series Samsung displays.


The are two new types of S-PVA panels, one has RGB subpixels shaped like 3 towers of vertical wedges:

R G B
^ ^ ^
^ ^ ^
^ ^ ^

The other has simple rectangular RGB subpixels ||| like Sharp panels have. As far as I can tell, these types are only used in larger (46"+) and higher end (7+ series) Samsung TVs. The only way to get rectangular subpixels in a lower end Samsung LCD is to buy a model that uses an A panel.

New Numbers

First of all, I installed FW 1010.0, FW version date 10/21/2010. This results in a factory reset of all custom inputs so I started with a clean slate.

The display is a 40C630 with an SQ02 panel, Tijuana, Mexico manufacture date of April, 2010.

I have a new X-Rite i1Pro Spectroradiometer and I used it to profile my Chroma 5 Colorimeter from which the measurements were taken in a dark invironment. This equipment and procedure is, to the best of my knowledge, approved by ISF for professional calibrations. I use ChromaPure software and the patterns were input from a Blu-Ray player into HDMI1.

The results are very satisfactory. When you look at the pdf file, the Delta E (dE) numbers are all 2 or less indicating that deviation from the HD standards are not visually perceptible.

The colors green and red are slightly undersaturated and this is due to the limits of the display in keeping with colors not being clipped.

For those of you with SQ02 panels, these numbers may improve your picture. I bumped the gamma a bit for night time viewing but the backlight can be increased from 5 to around 10 or so for daytime without doing too much degradation of the overall picture.

Subjectively, my Blu-Ray standard content is outstanding. I transferred the numbers to the TV input (I have RG-6 connected to the TV - no cable box) and am 100% satisfied. If you try these numbers I hope you see some improvement although if you've read my previous posts you know that I'm not a big fan of using other's numbers - all displays are different!

Edit: Link to new (3-15-2011) Cal-Day settings: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=699

Source: HDMI1

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 5
Contrast: 94
Brightness: 46
Sharpness: 0
Color: 46
Tint (G/R): G50/R50
Eco Solution: All off

Advanced Settings

Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Shadow Detail: 0
Gamma: +1
Expert Pattern: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off

Color Space: Custom
Red R60, G0, B0
Green R22, G63, B0
Blue R4, B5, B88
Yellow R53, G51, B0
Cyan R19, G50, G52
Magenta R53, G0, B66

White Balance:
Red offset 25
G 25
B 25
Red Gain 30
G 34
B 30

10 Pt white balance on
1) R3, G2, B-1
2) R3, G3, B0
3) R1, G2, B1
4) R2, G1, B0
5) R-1, G-2, B-1
6) R-1, G-3, B-2
7) R-2, G-3, B-3
8) R1, G2, B1
9) R0, G-2, B-1
10) R-2, G0, B-2

Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off

Picture Options:
Color Tone: Warm 2`
Size: 19:9
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
Film Mode; Off
Auto Motion Plus 120hz: Standard
Auto Protection Time: 2 hours

 

40C630 11-05-2010.pdf 158.8857421875k . file

Edit to above:

Peak light output = 39.4 foot lumens
Average CCT = 6541 (6504 is the standard)
Average CIE94 = 1 (<2 is not discernible by the human eye)
Average Gamma = 2.27. It looks excellent at night with a backlight setting of 5

Has anyone been able to do color space and white balance on an FB01 panel?

Thank you all for your help so far. I am still trying to adjust the settings, and I am using the disc I burned from here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19419370 but I do have a few questions.
So far I have just been using this to watch HD TV. I have not had a chance to pay any blu rays for an extended period of time. Here are my questions/comments.

The left 1/3 of the TV seems brighter in dark scenes. It also looks like detail is lost there. Peoples hair specifically looks smudgy/blotchy. I am not very far from the center of the TV.

The picture seems jumpy/jittery sometimes. I am not sure what the difference between smooth, clear and standard are, on Auto Motion Plus, so I am having a hard time deciding on which if any are ideal. I still see blocking/artifacts (not sure what it is called) sometimes when there is movement, normally when the scene is up-close. The manufacture says “No Blur”, maybe I don’t know what that is, because I seem to see blur.

When I used the calibration disc I tried it on Movie and Standard. For the blue screen color on movie I had to increase the color to 51, but on Standard I had to decrease the color to 35. Is this normal when they both started at 50?

Should I set the screen size to Screen Fit instead of 16:9? It looks like Screen Fit displays more picture. I tried this on the calibration disc and on a Disney blu ray TV setup.

The manual is not very helpful in describing what Film Mode and the Auto Motion Plus settings actually do, or why you would want one over the other.

Use 'screen fit' whenever you can ... it is more accurate == bit for bit ... HD broadcasts may show some white lines at the edges ... that is embedded data/info ... set it to 16:9 if you see that , and the lines will go away ... but it overscans/zooms 5% or so in 16/9 tho ...

J.

buzzard, does hdmi1 make any difrence, thatn the other , ?

I used buzzard 767 newest settings and the colors are fairly accurate. I am running directtv via hdmi and have auto motion off. I also put the dynamic contrast to low and gave sharpness a 7 for sd viewing since not all programming is hd. I still find it very muted and the picture seems a bit greenish during dark scenes sometimes. Any suggestions? I have the 40c630 with the aa panel.

Can anyone help me out with this? I have not been able to find anyone that has gotten a ln55c630 calibrate in 55" with an AA02. I have tried a few of the setting for other 630s and 650s and have not been that happy with them.

I am going to get it calibrated eventually and am looking for some decent settings to hold me over.

I know using another persons settings is not ideal, but I used some setting posted here on our 63c7000 and they look great.

Yes, it might, and that's on my TV. There is no telling how my numbers will look on your display. The manufacturers don't exactly use military spec parts ya know?

@Buzz
Thanks for taking the time to post your calibration settings. I ended up going with an SQ based panel after all, and your latest settings look great on my TV too. (running latest firmware)

Thanks again

I have seen this question asked before but was unsure if a concrete answer was given.

Let's say I have my PS3/Blu Ray player hooked up to HDMI1 and calibrated to Buzz's settings. If I move my PS3/Blu Ray player to HDMI2 and transplant/clone/copy/duplicate the calibration settings from HDMI1 to HDMI2, will the picture be the "same"?

I don't have any labels set to HDMI1 or HDMI2 (PC or otherwise).

I doubt if you'll see any difference. The calibration patterns were from a Blu-Ray player hooked up to HDMI1. I copied the settings to HDMI2 (Roku Box - think NetFlix) and to the cable antennae input where cable TV is viewed via RG-6 cable - no STB. Visually, all three inputs look the same to me. If I find some spare time I'll do grayscale and color gamut measurements with the two HDMI inputs representing the "before" and "after". That should confirm it, at least for HDMI.

Mucho thanks Buzz, I agree, no tv's can be exactly alike, but your numbers gives me a great starting point. But, to be honest, this last set of numbers works brilliantly with my set. Latetest firware update 1010.0 and I have a LN55C630 with the SQ01 panel.

Hi, all. Brand newb to the board.

I'm just getting back into HT after an extended absence (my bank account thanks me!) and decided to pick up a 60C630.

I'm coming from an 8 year old Panasonic 53" CRT RPTV and pretty much all of my setup is based on what was popular almost a decade ago. Needless to say, all of my video connections are component with outputs of 1080i (cable) and 480P (DVD).

The only calibration tool I have is a "Sound and Vision Home Theater Setup" DVD. It does have a blue filter for color/tint adjustments but it is squarely DVD resolution.

Questions for the board:

1.) Should I even bother with checking my tint/colors/brightness with the DVD given that its 480P running through component? My main concern is getting the colors right for HD viewing via cable.

2.) I've tried copying some of the settings posted thus far and the colors seem quite washed out versus what I'm used to (my RPTV was properly calibrated). If I try to verify my settings vs the aforementioned DVD, I do find the color saturation to be way low (the DVD patterns recommend color levels in the low 60's which seems ridiculously high). Could this be solely attributable to the fact that I'm using component cables in 1080i instead of hdmi at 1080P (the parameters for most of the settings posted), or is the DVD I'm using for reference just totally irrelevant at this point?

I know enough not to trust just my eyes but the DVD patterns have me totally confused...

Thanks for any help in advance!

I'd say forget about it for now ... if you aren't using HDMI ... i've always found hdmi (versus component) to have a MUCH different look. AND no one has calibrated the 60 inch (Sharp based) panel yet ... different beasts altogether imho.

Personally, I'm waiting for someone who has the same LN60C630 panel , before I'd consider trying someone else's calibration settings. Reason being, that our 60 inchers are distinctly different panels (60"== x-gen Sharp) than the 40,46,55 ... those smaller panels are NOT Sharp x-gen to my knowledge.

My 02 only, J.

Two days after my last reply in which I indicated Buzz's settings looked fantastic on my SQ02 panel, I return here to report that I exchanged my SQ02 for an AA based panel. While the SQ display had beautiful blacks, the image was not sharp enough for my liking.

Now I'm stuck with a panel that doesn't have many calibration settings (I counted one in this thread which I am not 100% pleased with).

Instead of sitting on my hands waiting for someone to post pro calibration settings for an AA panel, I was wondering what cost effective options I have to calibrate the image myself. I would prefer a cheap solution that doesn't involve any additional instruments - primarily because I'm a noob and don't want to learn the science of TV calibration, and secondarily because a colorimeter is most certainly out of my budget this time of the year.

Do any common BD's have a calibration function?

You could always download a freeware video pattern test disc ... and do an eye-ball job ... that is certainly better than nothing ... but will likely only give you a contrast/brightness settings improvement ... all imho.

J.