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Official Samsung LNxxC630 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 17

post #481 of 800
12/9/10 at 7:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

My 40" 630 arrived today. The panel is an SQ02 as expected which is what I wanted as it will be hanging on the wall of a naturally lighted very bright room.

Attachment 174619

...
Buzz

This is a great picture. I see that the sticker on the outside of the box lists that it's SQ02! This means that I might just be able to rifle through a few boxes without having to open them to find an actual Samsung panel.

If the outside sticker is accurate to what's in the box, it will sway me heavily toward the Samsung over the Panasonic.
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post #482 of 800
12/9/10 at 8:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GammaBreaker View Post
This is a great picture. I see that the sticker on the outside of the box lists that it's SQ02! This means that I might just be able to rifle through a few boxes without having to open them to find an actual Samsung panel.

If the outside sticker is accurate to what's in the box, it will sway me heavily toward the Samsung over the Panasonic.
Wow. That's from an old post. It turned out that part of our decorating added some curtains and wall hanging was out of the question. The TV now sits on a table in a corner. It works out well though, because the swivel base allows pointing the display at our three most used viewing points which is a nice bonus considering the less than desirable viewing angle of this LCD.

Yes, the box label matches the TV.
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post #483 of 800
12/9/10 at 10:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scot_wm View Post
I have a Samsung LN40C630, manufactured in Mexico, with firmware version 2010/07/28_1001003 with an SQ06 panel. I am very pleased with the quality and detail of both HD and standard pictures on this set. It seems that HD picture quality varies between broadcast channels as they are received by my TV antenna. Jay Leno's face and suit on NBC's 1080i broadcast seem to be somewhat lacking in detail, while David Letterman's face and suit on CBS' 1080i broadcast are very detailed. On ABC's 720p Wheel of Fortune, Vanna White's gown is very detailed. 1080p Blu-ray looks great and 480i DVD looks about as good as it can. The detail level of HD broadcasts varies from program to program.

The main problem that I have had with my LN40C630 is that none of the posted settings from this forum have been able to completely tame my TV's tendency to overplay all red colors. After fixing the flesh tones, red colors seemed to be either too orange or too burgundy. Correcting the reds would make the flesh tones too red. Blues were also inaccurate, but not as obvious as the reds. After trying five or six posted Color Space settings, I was still unable to correct the red and blue problems. After examining the various Color Space settings, I noticed that they all shared the same basic color ratios, with the exception of the Cyan and Magenta settings. The Cyan settings had too much red and the Magenta settings had too much blue. Once I adjusted the red, green and blue settings in these two categories, all of the other color problems were nearly solved. Finally, I ran across a post that had the ideal 10p White Balance settings for my TV. After changing these settings the colors became nearly-perfect.

All of my color calibrations were done by playing my Sharp LC-C3242U next to the Samsung with identical broadcast programming. The Sharp TV has very accurate color and one of the most pleasing pictures that I have ever seen on an LCD TV. After going back and forth, over various channels, I was able to come up with a calibration formula for the Samsung TV that looks great to me. The Sharp and Samsung TVs now have nearly identical pictures. The Samsung's white balance is exactly where I want it. I can play a black and white movie without having the screen appear too green, too red or too blue. It looks just right.

Black levels on the Samsung are the best that I have seen on an LCD TV. Apparently, the SQ panel is the source of the good black levels, but it might also be the cause of a delay between the display and the sound when playing Blu-ray discs. Setting the Audio Delay in the SPDIF Output to 70 has resolved this issue.

For those who have experienced problems getting their Samsung LNxxC630 TV to display accurate red and blue colors, the following settings might help.

SAMSUNG LN40C630 Movie Mode Settings:

HDMI Disc players output 1080i, Roku HDMI player outputs 720p and these devices play in Screen Fit mode. 1080i broadcasts play in Screen Fit mode and 720p programming plays in 16x9 mode.

Backlight 7
Contrast 86
Brightness 45
Sharpness 25
Color 42
Tint: Green 50/Red 50

PICTURE OPTIONS:

Color Tone: Warm 1
Size: Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level: Low (when not grayed out)
Film Mode: Auto 1 (when not grayed out)
Auto Motion Plus: Custom
Blur Reduction: 8
Judder Reduction: 2
Auto Protection Time: 2 hours

ADVANCED SETTINGS:

Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Shadow Detail: 0
Gamma: 0
Expert Pattern: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
xvYCC: Off (grayed out)

Color Space: Custom
Red: Red 45, Green 10, Blue 0
Green: Red 15, Green 40, Blue 0
Blue: Red 10, Green 0, Blue 70
Yellow: Red 48, Green 52, Blue 0
Cyan: Red 0, Green 35, Blue 45
Magenta: Red 35, Green 10, Blue 6

White Balance
R-Offset: 25
G-Offset: 23
B-Offset: 24
R-Gain: 22
G-Gain: 20
B-Gain: 23

10p White Balance: On
Interval 1: Red 0, Green -1, Blue -1
Interval 2: Red 0, Green -1, Blue -1
Interval 3: Red 0, Green -1, Blue -1
Interval 4: Red -1, Green 0, Blue -1
Interval 5: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 6: Red +1, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 7: Red 0, Green 0, Blue -1
Interval 8: Red 0, Green +1, Blue -2
Interval 9: Red 0, Green +2, Blue -2
Interval 10: Red 0, Green +2, Blue -3

TUNER AND COMPONENT: Standard Mode Settings.

Component DVD plays in 16x9 mode.

The Following Standard mode settings replace the HDMI Movie Mode settings:

White Balance
R-Offset: 25
G-Offset: 23
B-Offset: 24
R-Gain: 17
G-Gain: 24
B-Gain: 23

Color Space: Custom
Red: Red 40, Green 10, Blue 0
Green: Red 15, Green 45, Blue 0

10p White Balance: On
Interval 1: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 2: Red 0, Green 0, Blue -1
Interval 3: Red 0, Green 0, Blue -1

WOW -
I have the same set with the same screen and I have been trying a bunch of the posted settings too. I thought I had my set looking good but these settings really nail the colors for my TV.
The only issue I still have is the blacks are too black. No detail in dark scenes. I can fix it by cranking the gamma or brightness. They "seem" to do the same thing.
I have Gamma at +2 and brightness at 47. It might be a tad bright for sports but I need the brightness for movies.
Thanks for the post - These colors are perfect. RED is RED without burning the screen and basketball courts are a nice bright golden polished color. Flesh tones are real nice too. Before - with most of the other posted settings a BBall court was washed out (too light) and the RED was too flat or too hot.
Still tweaking - can someone explain the difference between gamma and brightness?
Thanks
JJK
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post #484 of 800
12/10/10 at 3:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJK1 View Post
can someone explain the difference between gamma and brightness?
Thanks
JJK
Gamma

Brightness - from CurtPalm.com: Brightness: The control used to adjust black level. Setting brightness too low will cause darker details to be lost into black (called 'black crush'). Setting brightness too high will cause the black to appear grey. Brightness affects all colours at the same time.
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post #485 of 800
12/10/10 at 4:33am
need settings for the 60 incher.. not seeing any posted. uses a different panel then the other sizes so I'm assuming needs it's own calibration info.
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post #486 of 800
12/10/10 at 6:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Wow. That's from an old post. It turned out that part of our decorating added some curtains and wall hanging was out of the question. The TV now sits on a table in a corner. It works out well though, because the swivel base allows pointing the display at our three most used viewing points which is a nice bonus considering the less than desirable viewing angle of this LCD.

Yes, the box label matches the TV.

I really appreciate the followup. Assuming I can get a good look at the boxes or convince/bribe an employee to find an SQ panel, it should save a lot of headaches.
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post #487 of 800
12/10/10 at 9:31am
60 incher 630 model here ... a dude by the name of 'kissfan' had his saem 60 incher calibrated and was going to share his settings ... but then he disappeared ...

I am going to try and find a meter used and do it myself ... grey scale accuracy is important to me ... that would be my starting point ...

J.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stockwiz View Post

need settings for the 60 incher.. not seeing any posted. uses a different panel then the other sizes so I'm assuming needs it's own calibration info.
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post #488 of 800
12/10/10 at 10:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJK1 View Post

WOW -
I have the same set with the same screen and I have been trying a bunch of the posted settings too. I thought I had my set looking good but these settings really nail the colors for my TV.
The only issue I still have is the blacks are too black. No detail in dark scenes. I can fix it by cranking the gamma or brightness. They "seem" to do the same thing.
I have Gamma at +2 and brightness at 47. It might be a tad bright for sports but I need the brightness for movies.
Thanks for the post - These colors are perfect. RED is RED without burning the screen and basketball courts are a nice bright golden polished color. Flesh tones are real nice too. Before - with most of the other posted settings a BBall court was washed out (too light) and the RED was too flat or too hot.
Still tweaking - can someone explain the difference between gamma and brightness?
Thanks
JJK

You're right about the black levels of the SQ06 display being truly black. The blacks are deep and rich, without a trace of the blue cast that I have seen in a lot of other LCD displays. I have not noticed any major problems with picture information being obscured in the background due to lack of contrast. However, it is critical that the Dynamic Contrast setting of the SQ06 be set to OFF. Activating this setting can totally kill the detail in black levels.

ADVANCED SETTINGS (for MOVIE and STANDARD modes)

Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off (Be sure that this setting is turned OFF)
Shadow Detail: 0
Gamma: 0

When adjusting contrast and brightness, I have found that real world conditions can often create an accurate picture. For example, a scene where several men are standing together in dark colored suits (any Perry Mason episode, for example) is a good choice for contrast and brightness adjustment. Then adjust the contrast and brightness levels just enough to make the fine details in the suit material become visible without making black levels look washed out. If you don't have any test discs available, you can use the THX video tests that are included in all Star Wars DVDs.

Increasing the gamma level does indeed boost contrast, but it may still be necessary to adjust the brightness and contrast to obtain proper black levels.
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post #489 of 800
12/10/10 at 11:27am
Hi guys - I just got my Samsung LN46C630. I'm not too serious a tweaker, but what I'm trying to extract from this thread is this:

I get the sense there is a set of changes one should make from the as-delivered settings that everyone agrees on, and then there's a fine tune that is set (and user) specific. I.e., you get the set, it's "BAD". You make some common changes, and it's "GOOD", and then you custom tweak and it's "GREAT".

Can you help me capture the first set of changes? So far I think its:
1) turn off Digital Filter, MPG filter, AMP.
2) film = auto1
3) picture mode = Movie.
I'm sure there are some others? I suspect if I apply this complete set of changes, the result will be "good enough" for me (and many others 8-})

Thanks!
/j

(and FWIW, I got mine at BB in MA last week, and it's a SQ05)


Update - I did a calibration this morning using the AVS disk - easy. I suggest watching the video if you're a newbie like me. so forget this qn 8-}
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post #490 of 800
12/11/10 at 4:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffw_00 View Post

Hi guys - I just got my Samsung LN46C630. I'm not too serious a tweaker, but what I'm trying to extract from this thread is this:

I get the sense there is a set of changes one should make from the as-delivered settings that everyone agrees on, and then there's a fine tune that is set (and user) specific. I.e., you get the set, it's "BAD". You make some common changes, and it's "GOOD", and then you custom tweak and it's "GREAT".

Can you help me capture the first set of changes? So far I think its:
1) turn off Digital Filter, MPG filter, AMP.
2) film = auto1
3) picture mode = Movie.
I'm sure there are some others? I suspect if I apply this complete set of changes, the result will be "good enough" for me (and many others 8-})

Thanks!
/j

(and FWIW, I got mine at BB in MA last week, and it's a SQ05)


Update - I did a calibration this morning using the AVS disk - easy. I suggest watching the video if you're a newbie like me. so forget this qn 8-}

What is the avs disk? I got my LN46C630 a couple weeks ago. I got an AA06. I noticed most have the SQ. I dont know the difference but ive tried some of the posted settings for the SQ panel And im not sure they are right for my tv.

Im just looking to get this thing calibrated. anyone know the difference between AA and SQ?
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post #491 of 800
12/11/10 at 8:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lltoolj View Post

What is the avs disk? I got my LN46C630 a couple weeks ago. I got an AA06. I noticed most have the SQ. I dont know the difference but ive tried some of the posted settings for the SQ panel And im not sure they are right for my tv.

Im just looking to get this thing calibrated. anyone know the difference between AA and SQ?

I don't know what an avs disk is.

A panels are MVA panels made by AU Optronics.

S panels PVA panels made by Samsung and Sony in a joint venture.

Here are a couple of sites with more information on this:

http://www.digitalversus.com/samsung...4_9365_36.html

http://www.digitalversus.com/samsung...4_9615_93.html

http://www.digitalversus.com/panel-s...ews-15457.html
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post #492 of 800
12/12/10 at 1:05pm
Just picked up a LN40C630 with the SQ06 panel.

While I'm slightly picky with how the settings look, I'm by no means a tweaker... Thanks to scot_wm for the settings... I'm using your first set as my starting point... I do find my tastes requires a bit more black/contrast/pop... This my ruin my future reputation on here, but of the 4 default settings, I tend to lean more towards Dynamic *shocking... Yes, it is a bit too sharp and a bit too blue, but the pop and vibrance is very alluring.

I did watch the Dark Knight on blu ray and the standard, movie, and scot_wm's settings are just too washed out... a film of haze almost...

What settings should I mess with if I wanted to keep, say scot_wm's settings, but wanted to address the washed out/haze look? Bump up the contrast and backlight? Any settings I should turn on? Dynamic contrast?? is that a huge no no?

I say that the stop motion/jittery look really made me upset when I first turned on the set... I went though and turned off all the settings everyone told me to, edge, AMP, and so on... but I'm wondering if one of these, say the dynamic contrast or something, will help my washed out/haze issue...

The warm1 and warm2 exacerbates my problem and I'm tempted to stick with normal...


THANKS!!!!
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post #493 of 800
12/12/10 at 2:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by iliveinalaska View Post
Just picked up a LN40C630 with the SQ06 panel.

While I'm slightly picky with how the settings look, I'm by no means a tweaker... Thanks to scot_wm for the settings... I'm using your first set as my starting point... I do find my tastes requires a bit more black/contrast/pop... This my ruin my future reputation on here, but of the 4 default settings, I tend to lean more towards Dynamic *shocking... Yes, it is a bit too sharp and a bit too blue, but the pop and vibrance is very alluring.

I did watch the Dark Knight on blu ray and the standard, movie, and scot_wm's settings are just too washed out... a film of haze almost...

What settings should I mess with if I wanted to keep, say scot_wm's settings, but wanted to address the washed out/haze look? Bump up the contrast and backlight? Any settings I should turn on? Dynamic contrast?? is that a huge no no?

I say that the stop motion/jittery look really made me upset when I first turned on the set... I went though and turned off all the settings everyone told me to, edge, AMP, and so on... but I'm wondering if one of these, say the dynamic contrast or something, will help my washed out/haze issue...

The warm1 and warm2 exacerbates my problem and I'm tempted to stick with normal...


THANKS!!!!

While I am not a fan of the Dynamic-torch mode, you can still jazz up my picture settings by using the Warm 2 settings that I have posted.

Put the display in the Standard mode. After the Warm 2 settings are in place, your color balance should be fairly accurate. After that, you can make things brighter and more vivid by making the following changes:

Backlight 7 and up
Contrast 85
Brightness 44 and up
Sharpness 25 and up
Color 40 and up

PICTURE OPTIONS: (Most important change.)

Color Tone: Cool (brightest) or Normal (brighter)

ADVANCED SETTINGS:

Gamma: +1, +2 or +3

White Balance (Higher Offset = brighter picture.)
R-Offset: 34
G-Offset: 32
B-Offset: 33
R-Gain: 25
G-Gain: 23
B-Gain: 26

Your panel will not be displaying a well-calibrated image, but you might still like it. I would appreciate hearing how this works for you.
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post #494 of 800
12/12/10 at 2:35pm
What's with all this sharpness 25 stuff? Have any of you actually looked at an HD sharpness pattern? That added white halo around everything is not part of the original content. It's additional material that degrades the picture. A little bit of sharpness, about 5 max, is almost always plenty for SD or overly compressed HD content.

Mine is set at 0. 1 to 7 does nothing to improve the picture and 8+ looks worse and worse.
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post #495 of 800
12/12/10 at 2:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
What's with all this sharpness 25 stuff? Have any of you actually looked at an HD sharpness pattern? That added white halo around everything is not part of the original content. It's additional material that degrades the picture. A little bit of sharpness, about 5 max, is almost always plenty for SD or overly compressed HD content.

Mine is set at 0. 1 to 7 does nothing to improve the picture and 8+ looks worse and worse.
I received my 40c630 last week and have not had much time to play with the settings, however, the first thing I did was crank my sharpness all the way down to 0.
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post #496 of 800
12/13/10 at 5:31am
After messing with the settings again, not being satisfied with the dull sheen with movie mode, I came up with the following settings which I like

Standard Mode

Backlight 9
Contrast 85
Brightness 44
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint: Green 50/Red 50

PICTURE OPTIONS:

Color Tone: Warm 2
Size: Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level: Low
Film Mode: Auto 1
Auto Motion Plus: Off
Auto Protection Time: 2 hours


ADVANCED SETTINGS:

Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Shadow Detail: 0
Gamma: 0
Expert Pattern: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color Space: Auto
xvYCC: Off (grayed out)
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
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post #497 of 800
12/13/10 at 9:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by betterdan View Post

After messing with the settings again, not being satisfied with the dull sheen with movie mode, I came up with the following settings which I like.

Your settings do not include any adjustments to color levels (other than Color Space: Auto) and your only adjustment to white balance is the Warm 2 setting. Are you happy with the look of your color and white balance?

My SQ06 display came with factory settings that had way too much red and the accuracy of the cyan and magenta varied with the Color Tone settings. However, setting Color Space to Auto did correct the color quite a bit, particularly the red push. I am assuming that you have left all of your White Balance settings at the factory default of 25 and that you have turned your 10p White Balance to Off, or if turned ON, the factory default detent settings are used in the Movie Mode.

It is possible to adjust the Movie mode and Standard modes to nearly identical picture quality, but you will not have access to the 10p White Balance settings in the Standard mode. Having access to the 10p White Balance settings allows the fine tuning necessary to obtain the optimum picture quality of subtle color shadings and these subtle adjustments are not available in the Standard mode. If you are avoiding the Movie mode because of its tendency to create a "dull sheen", you can make the following adjustments in the Movie mode to eliminate the dull picture quality:

PICTURE OPTIONS: (Most important change.)

Color Tone: Cool (brightest) or Normal (brighter)

ADVANCED SETTINGS:

Gamma: +1, +2 or +3

White Balance (Higher Offset = brighter picture. These settings can be adjusted to your preferred white balance.)
R-Offset: 34
G-Offset: 32
B-Offset: 33
R-Gain: 25
G-Gain: 23
B-Gain: 26

In the last few pages of this forum, I have posted my Color Space and 10p White Balance Warm 1 and Warm 2 settings. If you want to experiment with the subtle color settings available in the Movie Mode, you might want to try these settings. You can use my Color Space settings for both the Movie and Standard modes, but the 10p White Balance will be grayed out in the Standard mode. Some people have found that these settings improve their picture quality.
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post #498 of 800
12/13/10 at 9:40am
[quote=buzzard767;19636945]What's with all this sharpness 25 stuff? Have any of you actually looked at an HD sharpness pattern? That added white halo around everything is not part of the original content. It's additional material that degrades the picture. A little bit of sharpness, about 5 max, is almost always plenty for SD or overly compressed HD content.

Do you have either an A-series MVA panel or an S-series PVA panel?

I went back and examined the sharpness setting on my SQ06 panel and found that, combined with my current settings, the optimum sharpness setting is actually less than the 25 that I had been using. I don't know for sure, but the sharpness setting may be influenced by other settings, such as Movie mode vs. Standard mode, Gamma 0 vs. Gamma +3 and so on.

Using a Blu-ray test pattern, I ran the setting from 0 to 50 and found that the halo effect begins very slightly at around 12, at 20 it becomes a little more noticeable and by the mid 30s, it becomes very noticeable. After 50, the excessive edge enhancement ruins the picture. I'm not positive, but I think that 50 was the original factory setting.

I have now lowered my sharpness setting to 15, which looks about right to me from a viewing distance of 8 feet.
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post #499 of 800
12/13/10 at 2:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scot_wm View Post

Your settings do not include any adjustments to color levels (other than Color Space: Auto) and your only adjustment to white balance is the Warm 2 setting. Are you happy with the look of your color and white balance?

My SQ06 display came with factory settings that had way too much red and the accuracy of the cyan and magenta varied with the Color Tone settings. However, setting Color Space to Auto did correct the color quite a bit, particularly the red push. I am assuming that you have left all of your White Balance settings at the factory default of 25 and that you have turned your 10p White Balance to Off, or if turned ON, the factory default detent settings are used in the Movie Mode.

It is possible to adjust the Movie mode and Standard modes to nearly identical picture quality, but you will not have access to the 10p White Balance settings in the Standard mode. Having access to the 10p White Balance settings allows the fine tuning necessary to obtain the optimum picture quality of subtle color shadings and these subtle adjustments are not available in the Standard mode. If you are avoiding the Movie mode because of its tendency to create a "dull sheen", you can make the following adjustments in the Movie mode to eliminate the dull picture quality:

PICTURE OPTIONS: (Most important change.)

Color Tone: Cool (brightest) or Normal (brighter)

ADVANCED SETTINGS:

Gamma: +1, +2 or +3

White Balance (Higher Offset = brighter picture. These settings can be adjusted to your preferred white balance.)
R-Offset: 34
G-Offset: 32
B-Offset: 33
R-Gain: 25
G-Gain: 23
B-Gain: 26

In the last few pages of this forum, I have posted my Color Space and 10p White Balance Warm 1 and Warm 2 settings. If you want to experiment with the subtle color settings available in the Movie Mode, you might want to try these settings. You can use my Color Space settings for both the Movie and Standard modes, but the 10p White Balance will be grayed out in the Standard mode. Some people have found that these settings improve their picture quality.

Yea I left the white balance alone. When viewing a gray scale I see no color tint at all in the scale. I am going by eyeball here and i know that isn't the best way but it looks good to me with the settings I posted. In movie mode it just had that damn sheen over the picture which dulled the colors and like someone said before almost made it look like a thin smoke or fog screen which bugged me. Turning it to standard clears that up.
I tried your settings for warm 2 the other night and it didn't look bad but the colors look so much better on standard, even the skin tones look right. With your warm 2 settings the caucasian people looked a little too white even with a tan.
I loved the way my Mitsubishi DLP colors were it looked perfect to me so I guess I was trying to get it to look closer to that. After setting the controls like I did it is the closest to looking like my old Mitsubishi.
I always play the Suspiria dvd to look at colors since I know how it should look. The settings like I posted look the best color wise to me.
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post #500 of 800
12/13/10 at 4:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scot_wm View Post

Do you have either an A-series MVA panel or an S-series PVA panel?

I went back and examined the sharpness setting on my SQ06 panel and found that, combined with my current settings, the optimum sharpness setting is actually less than the 25 that I had been using. I don't know for sure, but the sharpness setting may be influenced by other settings, such as Movie mode vs. Standard mode, Gamma 0 vs. Gamma +3 and so on.

Using a Blu-ray test pattern, I ran the setting from 0 to 50 and found that the halo effect begins very slightly at around 12, at 20 it becomes a little more noticeable and by the mid 30s, it becomes very noticeable. After 50, the excessive edge enhancement ruins the picture. I'm not positive, but I think that 50 was the original factory setting.

I have now lowered my sharpness setting to 15, which looks about right to me from a viewing distance of 8 feet.

SQ02. Why?

Gamma, gray scale, and gamut are STRICTLY for meters and software. There is no way these adjustments can be accurately made by eye. Just because they are now in the user menu instead of the service menu doesn't mean they should be adjusted beyond neutral.

You get halo effect at 12 yet you think the correct setting is 15. Halo effect is added content due to TOO high a sharpness setting. Your correct setting is somewhere south of 12.
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post #501 of 800
12/13/10 at 6:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

SQ02. Why?

Gamma, gray scale, and gamut are STRICTLY for meters and software. There is no way these adjustments can be accurately made by eye. Just because they are now in the user menu instead of the service menu doesn't mean they should be adjusted beyond neutral.

You get halo effect at 12 yet you think the correct setting is 15. Halo effect is added content due to TOO high a sharpness setting. Your correct setting is somewhere south of 12.

One website says that the Samsung PVA display performs better than its MVA display in the same model TV, in color and contrast comparisons. I though that maybe sharpness levels might have different effects in different panels.

http://www.digitalversus.com/samsung...4_9615_93.html

My 32" Sharp TV had one of the best pictures that I have ever seen, but the screen is too small for the living room. My objective was to make the Samsung display look as close as possible to the Sharp display without the use of meters and software. I have been able to do this, but I can't say that my Samsung is accurately calibrated. Some people have said that they like my settings better than the factory defaults.

When I looked at the sharpness, I was 3 feet from the panel. I looked at both straight lines and lettering. Even with the sharpness control set to 0, there was a very, very faint trace of edge halo. The sharpness control showed very little effect on the edge halo at settings under 12. From a viewing distance of 8 feet, the difference between 12 and 15 cannot be seen, so I just set the sharpness up to the nearest multiple of 5.
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post #502 of 800
12/13/10 at 8:17pm
i just orderd the disney WOW world of wonder calibration disc, i read that its a good calibration disc and very helpful , has any body tryed it out?
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post #503 of 800
12/14/10 at 12:05am
My Sony XBR910 died couple of days ago and after some research I decided to get the LN46C630. I really like the bigger screen, the Sony was only 34". I ran the initial setup, changed the picture mode to Movie and size to Screen Fit. I have to say right out of the box it's it looks amazing. Live HD Sports have an unbelievable 3d effect! Especially close up shots. And the colors really pop. Live HD programs like news and talk shows and even some older movies in HD look very impressive. But some more current HD movies and TV shows and especially Blu Ray look a little weird. They have an overly digital processed look. Soap opera effect I think they call it. I tried some settings here and the picture looked dull. I really missed the way the picture popped so I reset it. Is there any way to loose the soap opera effect but keep the great color, clarity and pop?
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post #504 of 800
12/14/10 at 4:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by scot_wm View Post


When I looked at the sharpness, I was 3 feet from the panel. I looked at both straight lines and lettering. Even with the sharpness control set to 0, there was a very, very faint trace of edge halo. The sharpness control showed very little effect on the edge halo at settings under 12. From a viewing distance of 8 feet, the difference between 12 and 15 cannot be seen, so I just set the sharpness up to the nearest multiple of 5.

The nearest multiple of 5????? I must have missed something at the SpectraCal seminar.

Check sharpness at six inches with a magnifying glass if you need it. If a halo exists, turn down sharpness until it disappears. Then continue to turn down sharpness and see if the picture changes for better or worse. Stop at the "sharpest" picture point. On HD sets with HD patterns this point is 0 more often than not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CHAVES07 View Post

i just orderd the disney WOW world of wonder calibration disc, i read that its a good calibration disc and very helpful , has any body tryed it out?

This relates to my above post re: sharpness. The AVS Forum audience is a small one in the world of television so I don't think my information is going to put the TV calibration disc manufacturers out of business.

There is a free disc available. Go here. If you have a DVD burner download the AVCHD file, expand it, and burn the resulting iso file to a blank DVD disc. Also, download the Patterns Manual pdf file from the same page.

That disc contains everything you need to calibrate your set short of gray scale, color gamut, and gamma. Actually, if you have a spectroradiometer or colorimeter and software (ChromaPure, CalMan, or ColorHCFR) you can do a complete ISF style calibration because patterns for all three software versions are on the disc too.

You only need to use 5 patterns and the patterns manual describes exactly what you are looking for.

1) Basic Settings #1, Black Clipping - Use this to set black level with the brightness control.

2) Basic Settings #3, White Clipping - Use this to set white level with the contrast control.

3) Basic Settings #4, Flashing Color Bars - Use this to set color saturation (actually, Chroma gain) with the color control and hue with the tint control. On the Samsung 600 series sets, select the blue only mode rather than using a blue filter.

4) Basic Settings #5, Sharpness & Overscan - Use this to set sharpness.

5) Misc. Patterns (A), A4, Color Clipping - Use this to check that none of the three primaries, red, green, and blue, are being clipped. If one or more are you need to adjust the contrast control and/or the color control.

Now go back and recheck black and white levels. Some compromises may need to be made, but this is a part of caibration.

Before adjusting any of the above, turn off all the automatic controls that relate to dark levels, color, etc. They only work AGAINST you.

That's it. It's all you have to do. It's all you can do. Beyond this point requires a meter, software, and knowledge. If you don't have all three and you mess with custom color, white balance, 10 pt. white balance, or gamma you're asking for trouble. None of these things can be set by eye.
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post #505 of 800
12/14/10 at 3:58pm
well
is habe a sqo4 in it and my mother and brother two
all have 40c630

and i notice a problem with black parts of people mostly (most on brighter background) peple that move or the camra moves , the black of the pepole
have green shadow or aura or flashing short gree (hard to explain for me, my english is bad)

example (from storm raiders 2/stor warriors): some dark with black clothing Ninja are liging on the ground (realy bright yellow)and the camera move from right of the left and some one walks through them, then you see at the border of the black clothing and weapons/and parts of the ninjas turn extrem green " but when i pause the picture at the same , all is okay all is black no green to see!

i try to get it on my camera and put it on youtube!

i tried to smoe setings and when i turn the picture brightness higher (over 55 and higher )the green effect gets weaker or gone (depending on how high i turn the brightness), but then the blacklevel is bad !!!!

i mailed samsung but they only they put in new firmeware and reset the lcd
but the nwest firmware is already on it!!!

this problems is even worser when i wath a mpeg/vob over usb then i have ghosting (i think that from the digital rm(with not can be set in the medaplayer and the probaly by default on)

or is thier a way to turn of all the extra seting like digtal rm inthe mediplayer!!!
i have the lestet eu software/firmware on it (but to my surprise ther are 2 different firme ware for the c630 on the eu site , may say bescouse of to different chips set that are used , that samsung changed thier boards

my is T-MSX6DEUC-1002.1 =MStar
and the second for the other older ship sets is
T-VAL6DEUC-1014.0 =Valencia

so maby the software is not good or the new chip sets are not as good as the old ones
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post #506 of 800
12/15/10 at 2:58pm
I just got my 55" LN55c630 today. According to my box I have a AA04 panel. Upon quick glance I did not see any AA04 settings. Can anyone please post some AA04 settings if he/she has any? Thanks a lot!
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post #507 of 800
12/15/10 at 6:01pm
hey does some pls lock in the service meun for me

and tell me how the "front collor" default setting is!

press( when lcd is in standby): info, menu, mute than power let get in service menue
than highlight options (press right)than you see front collor settings , pls let me now them

pls let me now
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post #508 of 800
12/18/10 at 9:27am
The troubleshooting guide on page 46 of the SAMSUNG LN40C630 owner's manual offers a solution to the presence of an annoying dotted line on the edge of the screen.

Issue: "There is a dotted line on the edge of the screen."

Solution: "If the picture size is set to Screen Fit, change it to 16:9. Change cable/satellite box resolution."

The troubleshooting guide offers no explanation as to which edge of the screen is affected by the dotted line, nor does if offer an alternate way to correct the dotted line problem. Going into the 16:9 overscan mode does not solve the problem, it only hides it.

I have not seen the dotted line syndrome occur on any network programming. However, I have seen this problem on occasion when watching a couple of low-budget, independent stations that specialize in infomercial presentations. In these cases, the dotted line has appeared on the top of a few 1080i broadcasts when the TV is in the Screen Fit mode. Changing the picture size to 16:9 seems to be the only way to totally eliminate this dotted line.

On the other hand, I have seen a crawling, dotted line appear on the left side of the screen during 1080i, HDMI DVD and Blu-ray playback in the Screen Fit mode. The dotted line does not appear during static scenes, but when there is a sharp pan to the left or right, the dotted line flashes on and off. Changing from Screen Fit to 16:9 pushes about 5% of the picture behind the edge of the display and the dotted line disappears, just like the Samsung troubleshooting guide says it will. But I would prefer to stay in the Screen Fit mode, without the dotted line.

UPDATE: My DVD and Blu-ray players are set to 1080i output and my ROKU player is set to 720p so that I can use these devices in Screen Fit mode and in the case of the disk players, the Film Mode becomes active. My original observations were made while playing a DVD in both the DVD and Blu-ray players. However, when playing Blu-ray disks, the Judder control does not create a dotte line on the edge of the screen.

After looking around, I found that this vertical, dotted line was caused by Judder Reduction in Auto Motion Plus. Setting the Judder Reduction to 0 totally eliminates the vertical dotted line. Here are the settings in Auto Motion Plus and whether or not they produce the dotted line:

Off: No dotted line.

Clear: No dotted line.

Standard: Produces a dotted line.

Smooth: Produces a dotted line.

Custom: Produces a dotted line if Judder Reduction set between 1 and 10. Maximum Blur Reduction does not cause a dotted line to appear. A dotted line does not appear when Judder Reduction is set to 0.

One of the main selling points of Samsung for me was that its Judder Reduction and Blur Reduction can be separated from each other. This is not the case with most other TV brands.
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post #509 of 800
12/19/10 at 10:45am
does setting the mode to game mode completely turn off 120hz ?

why does movie mode make it look bad all the colors look dull an washed out i did find standard mode looksfantastic
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post #510 of 800
12/20/10 at 12:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scot_wm View Post

I have not seen the dotted line syndrome occur on any network programming. However, I have seen this problem on occasion when watching a couple of low-budget, independent stations that specialize in infomercial presentations. In these cases, the dotted line has appeared on the top of a few 1080i broadcasts when the TV is in the Screen Fit mode. Changing the picture size to 16:9 seems to be the only way to totally eliminate this dotted line.

The dotted line on top (dots move around) is the closed caption being improperly shown on the screen by a poorly broadcast HD show. Has nothing to do with the TV. You can push it off with various oversizing of the screen or moving of the image methods, but then some of your broadcast is off the edge. Personally I ignore it, but maybe you may find a quick method that you can use when needed (and turn off when not). There are also times when a blue line can be on the left edge by a broadcast, but this is getting less common. I had never heard of the judder issue with line on left.

/Dan
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