Official Samsung LNxxC630 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 20

It is best to calibrrate each set individually, as they are not the same. If you do not already have a disc you can download the file and instructions here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496.

For the panel type the box should say someting like AA05 or SQ05 where the upc and other informaition is. If not there, it will be on the back of the TV. I have found that leaving the auto motion on can create artifacts and judders, so at the moment, I just leave it off. Most here either leave it off or keep it on clear.

Hello everyone!

I'm likely buying a LN55C630 very soon, but wanted to see if anyone uses this with Call of Duty--Black Ops on the XBOX. I'm wanting to confirm if there is a way to minimize gaming lag, and if so, how low is the lag? What settings did you use to achieve it? It's important for me to know the lag can be minimized before buying this TV.

I have read the thread that documented the ways to minimize the lag on the LNxxA650. Not sure if the same info applies to this C model of the 630.

ANY HELP IS MUCH APPRECIATED !!

I use buzzards 1st settings and have for 6 months. I tried cnets and found Buzzards better by far. If you want to check your red, freeze the picture on a target logo/ad and that's red.
Anyhow, I prefer Judder at 3 and Blur at 9. Any more of each and the soap opera effect occurs. I have found that that is the limit for a clear, sharp picture. Very rarely will I get what we gamers call "rubber banding" (where a object/person moves unnaturally from point A to point B as if pulled by a rubber band). Again, I've found these settings to be the limits for my set.

Thanks newguy, i'll try it tonight !

Now my only concern is the gaming settings, i tried to calibrate it yesterday with several calibration settings found on this thread... now i can notice a lack of details. The lag is kinda ok but my concern is the detail, doesn't look sharp at all ... and i was wondering, the game mode..what is it suppose to do ?

I will try your settings when I get home as I am using settings from Scott_WM and they are pretty good. Nice blacks, etc. However, I have a problem with one side brighter than the other and is only noticeable on hockey or football when there is no logo on the upper left. However, when there is a logo in the upper left it balances out the brightness. I wonder if is a F/W problem? I have the 55C630 with the AA panel. I have a SQ01 on my 46A650 and it is much more uniform. Crutchfield is sending another set and I told them I wanted a SQ panel and he said he marked that on the order... but I will be surprised if I get that. Anyone able to work out the "unlevel" brightness problem?

I just got a new 46 inch C610 lcd with the SQ03 board. I could really use some help setting it up. I have it in my living room which is a very bright room during the day, unless the blinds are closed.
This is the first LCD I have ever owned and have seen a few different settings posted here. Is it possible for someone here to recommend some settings to work with to get it set up so the picture looks better then just the standard setup out of the box. I don't have a blueray yet but do have HD TV.

Thanks

I just purchased a 46 inch C630 and a Pioneer receiver. Does anyone know the best way to send the signal to the receiver? Right now, I have the cable signal and my Xbox360 going into the receiver, and then one HDMI connection going to the TV. Is there an advantage to send the cable box and Xbox straight to the TV, and then send the audio to the receiver?

On ANOTHER note: How do you access GAME MODE? The manual talks about it, but doesn't mention how to turn it on.

THANKS
mike

I have the same set as you.
Bring up the On Screen Menu.
Slide down to "Plug and Play" enter that.
Slide down to "General" enter that.
Game Mode is right at the top.

Hi guys!

My TV is LN46C630K1F .

Anyone know a "perfect" settings for both Standard and Movie?

Please let me know!

Thanks a bunch

First you say you've seen settings then you ask for settings.




For both of you, use a calibration disc like Avia or DVE or Spears & Munsil to set the basics. Better yet, IMO, download the free one. All the info on that one is here.

After your basics are set you can try and use calibration settings from someone else's display but the resulting picture will vary considerably. It'll be pure luck if you get a great picture. Full calibration, that is, gray scale and color gamut, is specific to each set.

Try mine for example. If no good, search out others. No guarantees and that's for sure.

Haven't posted since I got my Sharp LC-37DD43U in 2006. It's been working great for 4 years and I never "questionned" the colors. There are none of those complex settings and it looked right out of the box (except having to set simple stuff like back light and brightness)

Now I have a Samsung LN 46C610 (SQ3 panel) for 2 weeks and I've been fiddling around with it and can't find something that looks good.


I tried the Best Buy settings and they seem to improve things (especially the yellowish tinge in the movie mode)

I figure the overall appearances of these factory settings would be more due to the internal factory programming of the TV than the panel? After all the TV's have to look all the same in their respective modes out of the box if it's the same model (at least color wise)

I can deal with turning off the processing crap like Dynamic Contrast and Edge Enhancement but to me if a TV doesn't have a setting that looks good out of the box without having to mess with "white balance", 10p white balance, color space...it's not good

I also have a year old LG computer monitor and it's set at "6500k" , never fiddled with any setting and I also never "questioned" the colors on it .Everything look as it should like grays and flesh tones

Nope. It isn't that way. TV manufacturer's parts specs requirements aren't like the military or for reference quality test instruments. Every set, even the next one off the assembly line, looks different. If you don't already have a calibration disc, select the link in my post above, download a freebie, and do the basic calibrations on your display.

What's pissing me off right now is the nagging feeling I may never find the "right" settings , and get used to a compromise that's in fact a poor picture quality

I also found I could match the "Standard" and "Movie" modes:
ALL other settings equal (warm2 etc...) , It seems there is about a 15 point Color difference
Standard Mode Color 40= Movie Mode Color 56 , looking pretty identical .At default 50 Standard is over saturated and Movie undersaturated

Another observation:
Color Space= Native boosts mostly blues without affecting other colors much like flesh tones (you can see really well in Oceans documentaries on Discovery Channel or the PS3 interface is set to blue) . If you don't want to mess with "custom" Color Space ,it offsets the pale skies of warm2 but still leaves the whites a bit yellowish

So my best "simple calibration" without messing with stuff I'm not too sure about would be:

Movie (or Standard)
Warm2
Color 56 (Movie Mode) or 40 (Standard Mode)
Color Space :Native
Turn off processing crap (Dynamic Contrast, Edge Enhancement...)
Put Brightness and Gamma to have shadow detail like you want (for me 50/Gamma+1)

No messing with white balance, 10p white balance or custom color space

I bought the LN46C650 because of the rave reviews on it's color and quality. Once i opened the box i started using some of the settings listed here as starting points. Everything looks totally washed out. The blacks look horrible. They are like grayish browns. There is no pop in the color (vibrancy) and no deep blacks, their is either no details in the darks or the brightness/gamma is too high and i'm seeing grays. I've updated the firmware to the latest version. I've followed Scott and Buzz's settings plus a few more, here and other sites. I know these are just starting points, but i was hoping to be somewhat closer to a great setup.

I bought this on newegg and several comments said to use Game Mode and you don't have to do too much tweaking. I couldn't find that mode at all. I updated the firmware to the 11/03/10 version and finally found the Game Mode option (which kicks you into standard mode and removes some options). This has really helped out the look. The blacks are much deeper and i see details in them. Colors pop and Windows Media Center has amazing blues, reds and yellows. The back ground on WMC has a nice smooth transition from the dark blues on the outside to the light blues on the inside. I was testing with Harry Potter HBP (for the inky blacks at the beginning with the dark wizards flying around London), Terminator Salvation for the multiple shades of green and grays, Ultraviolet for the eye popping colors during the 2nd part of the opening sequence when she's stealing the package (man those Yellows and Violets look awesome), Braveheart with the subdued reds and greens of the kilts and the lush greens of the highland grasses and Buried with it's almost entire black screen (movie about a guy buried alive in a box, from his perspective). Comparing all these with Scott and Buzz's versions versus Game Mode made huge differences. Game mode really looked great. I've lost my Avia disc so i cannot properly calibrate but i'm not sure i want to until i decide if i want to keep this unit.

I was coming from a fully calibrated (Avia) Panasonic gen 4 plasma which has amazing color and great blacks. So i was a little unnerved at how bad (grainy and washed out) this LCD looked. I have a Panasonic L32x1 in the bedroom and with a little Avia tweak it looks phenomenal. The blacks are amazing and the colors are rich and vibrant. Skin tones looks very good as well.

I have gone ahead and planned on returning this unit in exchange for the PN50C680 plasma. I already scheduled the exchange before i found Game Mode. The colors in Game Mode seem acceptable and the blacks are good. But i'm afraid there is something wrong with the unit. It's the Axx series and has a column of light on the left hand side of the screen that's quite noticeable. I thought it was just a reflection until others here started mentioning it.

I was looking at the C6500 but reading AVS i found that several thought the C680 had much truer blacks. This is my first venture out of the realm of Panys and i'm a little discouraged by it. I hope the C680 plasma does a better job. It seems odd to me that a 5 year old plasma that's been used daily for 5 years looks better over composite than a brand new LCD over HDMI.

For any that are running over XBOX, did you change your XBOX color space settings? RGB mode and 2 others are there. I'm not sure if i should set it to any mode other than RGB to maybe enhance the blacks and make "movie mode" look more like what scott and buzz speak of with regards to the deep rich blacks. Mine just looked washed out. Anyway this post was part vent, part question and part answer (for those in my boat).

Thanks.

The color control only plays a small part in adjusting saturation. From Tom Huffman ---

Why can't I fix oversaturated colors by simply turning down the main Color control?

This issue comes up often in the context of popular displays that exhibit a strongly oversaturated gamut. The JVC RS1/2/10/15 front projectors are perhaps the best example.

Lacking a full-featured CMS, one is tempted to try to alleviate the problem by simply turning down the main Color control. Turning it down slightly may help somewhat, but anything more than a very small adjustment is likely to make the color worse rather than better. Why? The reason has to do with the fact that, contrary to popular belief, color controls are not engineered to adjust saturation. They are Chroma gain controls. Turn the color up, you increase the chroma of the signal. Turn the Color down, and you decrease the chroma. Although related, chroma and saturation are not the same.

Perhaps the best way to think of the difference is this: Imagine a red patch of color illuminated under a strong, bright light and then imagine the same patch seen under a dim light. As you change the lighting conditions, the red appears more or less colorful. This is chroma. However, the saturation of the color does not change even as its brightness changes dramatically. It will not plot differently on the CIE chart, despite the fact that it is less colorful and significantly dimmer.

Interestingly, the reverse is not true. If you lower the saturation of red, the chroma decreases to approximately the same degree. A less saturated red seems proportionally less colorful, but a less colorful red is not necessarily proportionally less saturated. Consider the two examples below.

Example 1: Chroma change


Example 2: Saturation change


The first example mimics the effect of turning down the main Color control. If you turned the Color control all the way down to zero, the the patch would finally lose all of its colorfulness (and saturation) and retain only some residual brightness, appearing as a shade of gray.

The second example mimics what occurs when we decrease saturation using a CMS. The brightness stays relatively constant (it may actually slightly increase), but it loses colorfulness as well.

This should make clear why turning down the main color control is not a good strategy for addressing oversaturated colors. What this does is similar to what you see in Example 1. It will reduce the saturation of the colors, but it will also significantly reduce their brightness. What we need is what is simulated in Example 2.

However, the main color control IS a good tool for adjusting color decoding problems. Unfortunately, it works equally for all of the colors, when what is generally needed is color-specific adjustment.

Note: "Chroma" is a term that has somewhat different meanings depending on the context. Those familiar with video engineering will understand chroma to refer to a rather general concept of color. Video signals contain chrominance and luminance. However, in color science "chroma" has a more specific meaning, which is "colorfulness of a area relative to a similarly illuminated area of white." Color scientists use the term "colorfulness" to refer to what video engineers refer to as chroma.

But the settings I mentioned do seem to "match" the Movie and Standard mode . I had the movie Kick-Ass on Blu Ray(very colorful with lots of bright primary and secondary colors) playing on my PC monitor and the TV at the same time and warm 2 + those color settings pretty much matched the colors on the monitor set at 6500k.

some of you guys can try it too

I'm less happy with how my HD cable box looks compared to my previous Sharp Aquos

Anyways it's clear to me Movie Mode at 48-49 color (seems the values usually suggested) is way too washed out .

SD looks crappier too. not sure if it's just because it's a larger TV


But also by your explanation, if I turned down Color to 40 to make Standard more tolerable , it's also possible I turned down something (chroma or saturation or whatever) that's making like the picture is missing something

please advise, my 40c630 set has oversaturated Red and Blue, which setting in CMS should i change to make it 'normal'?

In the menu it clearly says

Color :Adjust color SATURATION
White Balance :Adjust red/green/blue BRIGHTNESS so that the brightest point of the picture becomes white
10p White Balance. Controls the white balance in 10 point interval by adjusting the red/green/blue BRIGHTNESS

Would anyone happen to recommend any AMP settings for PS3 gaming, or Blu Rays? At the moment I'm enjoying Anti blur at 9 and anti judder at 3, seems to be a good balance. I'm using game mode, but feel I should be taking advantage of AMP for PS3 gaming... any takes on this?

Yeah me too . At first I thought "smooth" was great because backgrounds stays clear when you turn around in third/first person games . But I started noticing some artifacts like blur and ghosting effects (not constant, hard to explain , but not present with AMP off)

As for lag I guess I'm not good enough a gamer to notice any. I just make sure stuff like Dynamic Contrast, Black Tone and all the other processing settings are off (except AMP)

We use amp off and don't use game mode for the XBOX 360 (too many jaggies in game mode looks awful) and me and my son can't detect any input lag at all.

Color: Read Tom Huffman's entire post here. He isn't guessing. Tom is one of the most highly respected calibrators you're ever going to find and he is the author of ChromaPure calibration software.

White balance and 10 pt. white balance: It's the same thing, just a difference in precision. It is grayscale, otherwise known as color temperature. Equalizing the brightness off all three primaries ensures pure, uncolored gray. Increasing or decreasing the totel brightness of each particular point adjusts gamma. Any of these operations requires a meter and software.

You can choose custom and play with reducing the numbers but to do this properly you need calibration equipment. Color points are generally most accurate in the movie mode using warm 2 and this would be a good place to start.

what's CMS?

is that Color Space ? or something in the service menu?

Color Management System. User menu > Advanced > Color Space > Custom

So If I understand correctly for "White Balance" (color temperature)

"Color Tone" (Normal,Warm 1...) is the gross adjustment
"White Balance" fine tunes Color Tone
"10p White Balance" fine tunes "White Balance"

If I find "Warm2" too yellowish for cable TV, I may as well use Warm 1 instead of fiddling with the advanced settings? (if I'm not using calibration equipment or software)

White balance is gray scale. On the Samsung, White Balance is a 2 pt. calibration and 10 pt. is as named. They sort of do what you described but if you want to learn check out the stickies in the Calibration sub forum.

The newer Samsungs have calibration controls accessible in the user menus. I don't know the exact reasoning for this but I think the Internet has taught too many people how to get into services menus with predictable disaster. In the user menu the settings can be reset without bricking the display. Just because they are there doesn't mean they should be used by someone ill equipped. The Owners manual does NOT say that grayscale and CMS is for expert use only. Their bad. In Mitsubishi manuals it labels advanced controls as being for professionals only. Samsung provides no such warning. In short, if you don't have the software, hardware, and knowledge, leave these controls alone because there is nothing there that can be adjusted by sight.

Get a calibration disc and make the appropriate adjustments. Brightness, contrast, color, and tint will take you at least 50% of the way to a calibrated TV. Beyond that, ya gotta pay to play.

thanks, that's what I thought.

So for me it's either find a "basic setting" I like or change the TV

I think I've been too obsessed in keeping Warm 2 because it's somekind of standard. It looks ok for Blu Rays but for TV most shows look to yellow

I'll try my settings with Warm 1 or Normal Color Tone for a few days and see from there

Good timing on your post - half time LOL

Warm 2 is suggested because the manufacturer usually uses it to bring the movie mode closer to Rec. 709 SMPTE HD standard. This can often be seen by viewing the warm 2 x and y values in the service menu. Many calibrators start with this setting and also turn off all the auto settings. After that it's just like on the calibration discs - brightness, contrast, sharpness (if required) color, and tint. Color and tint is sometimes left at the factory settings as they are adjusted in the CMS anyway.

I wouldn't obsess over warm 2. Get the black level (brightness) and white level (contrast) right first. Put on programming that YOU are familiar with and adjust color and tint by eye. I use things like ESPN Sports Center, NASCAR paint schemes, skin tone from CNN HD, stuff like that. If skin tone and a Green Bay Packer uniform look right to me that's all I can do without using a meter.

Further thought - Blu-Rays are reasonably consistent, but TV is all over the place and you might have to adjust on the fly.