Official Samsung LNxxC630 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 3

Thanks, I'll try this out tonight when I get home.

Hello.
I just purchased an LN40C610. I was going to play around with some settings and began wondering

what is the difference exactly between the 610 v 630. i cant find any info. I purchased at Sam's club, so could it be a warehouse club model number change so that youcant pricematch? TIA, and sorry if this isnt the best place to ask.

And this TV is awesome out of the box compared to a 32in Vizio i replaced.

yeah, i think it is basically a warhouse club and BB model that fights against price matching they may slightly alter minor features too

another try, actually it's only in the middle so not sure it is better than the previous go yet but:
same as my previouys post only this time (con 98; warm2; movie; sharp,edh,dynamic,black etc all to 0 or off; 50:50; bl: 2-4 for dark room fo rblurays even 2 is often good enough; 4-7 for brighter room;7-15 for really to really, really, really bright room)

brightness: 44
color: 49
gamma: -1 as before (although 0 for bright daylight viewing)
WB offsets: 27,25,23 gains: 23,24,27 (r,g,b)
10pt (level1-10 of r,g,b):
7,5,2
1,0,2
-2,-3,-3
0,-2,-5
0,-2,-5
2,1,-5
1,0,-5
1,1,-2
0,-1,-3
2,-1,-1

color space custom (color,r,g,b):
R: 46,0,0
G: 28,55,0
B:1,7,68
M:47,10,70 (this one is not taht great im pretty sure)
C: 16,54,48
Y: 51,55,0

edit: i'm no longer at all certain than any of them use static dithering, but that said something is causing a weird horizontal striping of some colors (easiest to see with manilla,yellow, orange type colors but can be seen with many others)

it almost seems to be back to every other scanline seemingly not handling the green subpixel the same way for the same shade, at least on my set and apparently on at least a few other copies of a number of other 2010 models

how do we make the tv display at 120hz?
everytime i switch to a source it just says 60mhz

i have the c610

Thanks for posting that skibum. I tried your settings and really like them, although I guess a professional calibration is in order. Your main settings were not far off from mine at all, but once I used your color settings I was able to turn off my flesh tone enhancement, and slide the tint back to 50/50 (I had it at 47/53). Probably not quite perfect on my set, but even better than it was!

The TV always runs at 120hz. the 60hrz you see in the top left with the resolution is just what the source is feeding to the TV.

i'm working on a better set now
might post within another week

interesting i am now trying tint at 48:52
and then using different color space settings

my new calibration program says to start with the tint control and to balance magenta and cyan with that and 48:52 seemed to do that best

i also bumped color up since it improved certain things but overall it made it too saturated so i have to try again with it a bit lower

big sets are bit tricky to get perfect too since a few inches this way or that and the readings change a step (or two) and as the calib tools heat up they keep needing to be re-calibrated again and again, etc. plus there are so many control that back-react with eachother (and for all i know starting with warm1 or something other than warm2 een if farther off to begin with might in the end give something better)

i also, again and again, find myself wanting calibration settings for color balance and gamma to be 1/2 the size the steps are it's almost impossible at times, mostly at the lower end to not have a single tick make double the shift needed and toss things noticeably off


interestingly Colorimetre HCFR keeps giving like 6000:1 contrast ratios but calman more like 3000:1 (maybe 4000:1 with strong backlight), colormietre does have a setting tha lets it read a lot longer near the black level

That is interesting. I wasn't going to mess with the custom color settings, because I have no way to calibrate it. Just using DVD essentials, I came up with 48/52 tint, but I bumped it up to 47/53 because I didn't like the flesh tones even with flesh tone enhanced. I also had color set at 60 because I like a lot of color. I left it there, but otherwise copied your settings.

Here's what I'm working with on my 46C630 (AA02 panel):

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 4-8 (depends on time of day)
Contrast: 92
Brightness: 43
Sharpness: 10
Color: 49
Tint: G51/R49

Eco Solution: all off

Advanced Settings
Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Content: Off
Shadow Detail: 0
Gamma: +1
Color Space: Custom
Red: R48/G0/B0
Green: R0/G50/B0
Blue: R0/G0/B46
Yellow: R50/G50/B0
Cyan: R0/G50/B50
Magenta: R50/G0/B50
White Balance:
R-Offset: 23
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 23
R-Gain: 25
G-Gain: 27
B-Gain: 24
10p White Balance: On (but no changes from defaults)
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
xvYCC: Off

Picture Options
Color Tone: Warm2
Size: Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
File Mode: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Clear for sports, otherwise Off
Auto Protection Time: 2 hours

Thanks for posting your settings/results so far. I tried out your first set shortly after unpacking on my 46" SQ01 and it was like night and day. I need to do a bit of tweaking for my set but the PQ is already far better than I was expecting for such an affordable set.

Looking forward to the next settings, thanks again!

My latest settings after a more careful calibration:

these apply to SQ01-2010 version panels (you can try them with others, if something internally adjusted the panels to match it might sort of work out for other panels, who knows)

they were carried out on a 55C650 using DTP94 sensor and Calman

[my panel has slightly different shading every other scanline, it seems like the middle and bottom and green sub-pixel often show a different shade FOR THE SAME COLOR ever other scanline, very weird, no idea what the heck is going on, never heard of static dithering by every other scanline since that would be too easy to notice and not so effective, something weird, if anyone else has an SQ01-2010 set that does or doesn't do please report it in the other thread I posted, trying to find out whether only a few, many, or all are doing it; if some don't then perhaps it might slightly alter the required settings from what is posted below]


Mode: Movie
Backlight: 2-4 for a dark room; 4-8 for typical room; 8-14 for a super bright room with a ton of direct sun streaming in, although it is up to your eyeballs in the end and what they like and can handle
Contrast: 98
Brightness: 44 (oops this really needs to be 46 now but that reacts with other settings maybe use 45 for now until I go fix it)
Sharpness: 0
Color: 52 (overall it is a touch too saturated with 4 out of 6 primaries and secondaries but it's tricky to match it work out perfectly between this and other stuff)
Tint: G48/R52
Eco Solution: Off
Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Shadow Detail: 0
Gamma: -1 for dim room viewing; 0 for bright room viewing
Felsh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
Color Tone: Warm2
Size: Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI: as needed Low if you send it 16-235 and Normal if you send it 0-255 (usually you need Low for stuff like external blu-ray standalone players and cable boxes and Normal for PCs)
Auto Motion Plus 120Hz: Off (although you can try it, up to you)
Source Edit Name HMDI1/DVI: DVI Devices
BD Wise: Off

Color Space: Custom
Red: R39,G6,B0 (can't get it quite right, can't remove enough blue again)
Green: R36,G51,B0 (falls a fair amount short of ideal max saturation point, once again they don't let you remove enough blue balance)
Blue: R3,G8,B50
Yellow: R56,G50,B0 (there is now way to quite extend it out far enough, can't remove enough blue)
Cyan: R23,G52,B47
Magenta: R34,G6,B51

White Balance:
R-Offset: 28
G-Offset: 23
B-Offset: 22
R-Gain: 23
G-Gain: 23
B-Gain: 28

10p White Balance:
gets a pretty even gamma 2.35 from 10%-90% combined with Gamma: -1 which is good for evening or night viewing (some say you can even go to -2 for viewing in a total black room but you might prefer -1 anyway; gamma 0 is better for broad daylight, well lit room)
1: R5,G7,B3
2: R0,G2,B3
3: R-4,G-3,B-4
4: R-3,G-2,B-5
5: R-2,G-1,B-4
6: R-1,G0,B-4
7: R1,G4,B0
8: R0,G3,B0
9: R1,G1,B1
10: R1,G1,B0

those should be pretty good i think

Calibration done in a pitch black room set to backlight 6 (to give it a bit more light to work with)
ColormetreHFCR claims 5700:1 CR
Calman gives 3900:1 CR







anyway i'm sure there are different combos that can get even better sinc esome settins back react against others but it takes a long time to figure it all out

EDIT: oooops, damn, forget to check the brightness setting and 44 doesn't quite work for these WB settings it chops off the last few black tones, 45 or maybe 46 is needed not 44 but tha tmight then back-react a little from the other settings. but using 45 for brightness with the above shouldn't mess it up too much although it won't be quite perfect.

Also I think I can go back and find a way to reduce the saturation hue shifts a bit, currently red is shifting in hue too much as the saturation of red decreases
anwyay it's a start

Maybe the OP should rename this the C630/C650 cal thread instead of the just the C630?

Hi there i just got my tv and its an A panel can some one please post some settngs thants in advance

Thanks so much skibum5000 and others for posting. I just got the C630 and am using this thread and DVE to get a perfect picture. I was going to just use an older THX calibration pattern set but the image was turning up murky and/or noisy.

One slight problem I seem to have is that the image seems a little jumpy as compared to my former roommate's Sony Bravia. I'm not highly experienced with setting up HDTVs so does anyone have any suggestions? I notice it the most on long pans. Occasionally it can cause blurring.

Here's my settings I use for my Xbox 360 using Game Mode on my 46" SQ01 Panel. I used the calibration tool that's on my Halo 3 bonus disc and it actually improved my picture quality quite a bit. btw before I post my settings I just wanna say that game mode on this TV kicks ass! I don't notice any downgrade in picture quality. The LG I had before had a horrible downgrade in picture quality when you turned game mode on, the blacks got so grey on that set. Not the case with this Samsung, the blacks stay about the same. Anyway, here's my game mode settings:

Mode - Standard
Backlight - 5 (I have a 40 watt lightbulb in a medium sized bedroom, no sunlight)
Contrast - 95
Brightness - 43
Sharpness - 20
Color - 54
Tint - G47/R53
Eco Solution - All Off

::Advanced Settings::
Black Tone - Off
Dynamic Contrast - Off
Shadow Detail - 0
Gamma - 0
Expert Pattern - Off
RGB Only Mode - Off
Color Space - Native
Flesh Tone - 0
Edge Enhancement - Off

::Picture Options::
Color Tone - Normal
Size - 16:9
Digital Noise Filter - Off
MPEG Noise Filter - Off
HDMI Black Level - Low
Auto Motion Plus - Off
Auto Protection Time - 2 hours

Heavymetal, how is the imput lag on your tv? I bought the ln46c650 (sq01 pannel) today and I seem to notice lag even with game mode on. Wondering what settings you have on your xbox 360. Did you raise the resolution to 1080p or did you left it at 720p ?

It's not bad at all. I play lots of Halo 3 online and I don't notice any lag while i'm playing. There is very slight lag though, but I only notice it if i'm looking for it. If i'm in a game menu or the 360 dashboard and I push up or down on the dpad I can notice a very very slight delay only if i'm looking for it. The 360 controller could have something to do with it as well. I know wireless 360 controllers have a slight lag to them. I have my 360 set to 1080p btw.

thanks for the calibration settings, i cant really tell if i like them or not though, im used to the bd-wise settings..i really like the way they look. it just looks more clear/colorful to me.

In game mode the lag in about 62MM Regular mode at about 120...

Can you really tell 1/10 of a second?

After being disappointed with the C750 and needing a TV anyways, I decided to stick with Samsung and grab a 650 55" to tide me over until something I deem acceptable comes along.

Setting up the TV the other night, there were a few things I noticed about the settings:

- Backlight of anything above 6 seriously burns my retinas out the back of my head.

- AMP settings have MUCH less effect than they did on the last generation of Sammy LCDs. Even setting the Blur Reduction setting to 10 still resulted in some minor ghosting here and there.

- Setting Game Mode results in edge artifacts in detail-heavy games like Killzone 2 and Uncharted 2. Anyone know how to clear these up? It makes you realize how much processing is going on behind the scenes when running with the TV in its standard mode. Nonetheless, there seems to be no other way to improve the input massive lag displayed by the new Sammies.



Unfortunately, I have all my devices (PS3, HD sat box, HTPC) going through my Onkyo 507 receiver. This results in me needing to find a "one size fits all" setting and it is prooving to be a royal PITA. It necessitates changing certain settings again and again.

One question: I see a lot of these calibration settings using the Warm 2 mode. Wouldn't setting the Warm 1 mode eliminate much of the red setting colour-space calibrations I am seeing in some of these setups??

It's hard to say what works out best in the end without painstakingly trying all starting points but I can say that before you adjust any controls Warm2 in Movie mode actually is closest to D65K. Warm1 is farther out.

(at least on my set. my set does have a VERY curious thing in that if you display a solid block of color every other scanline draws a slightly different shade I even took macros shots to show that it is not lighting up green the same amount on odd as even scanlines (or maybe it is reversed) if it is by accident you'd think this would give the set a bias push; if it is done on purpose it is hard to think why especially since i've seen some SQ01 sets, at least in the C8000's that don't have this evert other line difference)


I may post a new set tonight.

EDIT:
Ok, maybe tomorrow night hah. I will also try a PC mode calibration, but there is not too much that can be done there. I may be able to post an ICC profile though for people using color managed software, not that I have a place to post it....

Also the tricky thing is figure out what type of gamma to use? Standard power function, HDTV standard (it seems to go a bit overboard preserving shadow detail and 2.2 power function gamma is like a 2.6-2.8 in the deep shadows of a 2.2 HDTV gamma!), sRGB standard? I wonder if most movies are mastered at CRT Power Function 2.22 gammas or if they really do master them now in HDTV gamma function mode? What about HDTV programs?

Anyway last time I used the good old Power Function standard and 2.35 but since this is most contrasty, least shadow detailed, bat cave mode maybe 2.22 is ok even for a dim room?? Anyway this time I aimed for 2.22 Power Function instead of 2.35.

It's confusing since some say gamma 2.22 is only for a bright room and 2.5 for evening/night TV viewing but then each gamma function is different too and some say PowerFunction for dark room and HDTV for a brighter room with a matte panel. And then some say mix 2.22 or 2.5 or 2.35 into the mix with each. SOme say if you calibrate to HDTV standard then use gamma 2.6 for evening viewing, then why even bother with that weird HDTV gamma and not just use a Power Function at 2.22? What a mess....

Anyway the next set will use the Power Function gamma at 2.22 as the base point.

The lag on the dashboard is always there, it just moves slowly since they changed it.


I just onboxed my new 46C630, and messed with it for about 30 minutes with a 360 going to HDMI 1. To me, games should look like games, and be nice a bright with lots of pop and great contrast. For movies I like a more natural look, but Ill get to that later.

So, I havent had time to mess with everything yet, but these settings make games look great, at least with 360/HDMI.

(couldnt find game mode anywhere in the menus, so I assume thats because Im using the HDMI1/DVI pc input?)

Mode - Standard
Backlight - 10
Contrast - 100
Brightness - 55
Sharpness - 80
Color - 50
Tint - 50/50
Eco - All Off

Black Tone - Off
Dynamic Contrast - High
Shadow Detail - 0
Gamma - -1
Color Space - Auto
White Balance - (havent adjusted yet)
Flesh Tone - 0
Edge Enhancement - On

Color Tone - Normal
Size - Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter - Off
MPEG Noise Filter - Off
HDMI Black Level - Low
Auto Motion Plus - Off

Anything more then 10 backlight didnt help the pop and just caused the darks to go grey. Less then 10 was less pop.

I see no reason not to run 100 contrast for games at least, turning it down to even 98 caused less detail.

Brightness at 55 is the sweet spot to me, with one 100w natural light in my living room.

Sharpness under 40 was very blurry in COD-Classic, 50+ wasnt that noticable. I just set it to 80 to be safe for games with very fine text and whatnot.

Didnt mess with color or tint.

Black tone didnt seem to do much. DC at high really makes the games pop. See the pick of BF:BC2 main screen below.

Gamma at 0 was fine, going higher made the screen lose a lot of its depth in all black spots. -1 looked great to me, as with the other settings, its nice and bright, and has really dark blacks.

I turned off all the filters and the AMP since they dont do much for gaming, and to help with the lag.

Played some COD:Classic and BF:BC2. There is almost no lag that I can notice. If I very quickly tap the trigger as fast as I can, by the time my finger is off the trigger the gun is in the proccess of firing. So its not instant, but its plenty good enough, even for fast passed shooters.


Pics of unboxing, setup, and calibrated shots,
http://s864.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng%20LN46C630/
(my cam isnt the best )

I actually sat down and calibrated all my inputs today. I used Heavymetal's settings for my 360 and they seem to work well. I don't know if it matters though, but I have one of the original Xbox360s, so I don't have the luxury of HDMI inputs (only component). I have zero experience in calibration and am one of those guys that end up copying what other people's settings. But I just wanted to let you know I appreciate everyone's help & expertise.

Here are a couple better shots. Both with quick calibrations, still havent touched the color options yet. The BF:BC2 is 360 over HDMI with settings above, the pic from TV is Directv HD over HDMI.

And finally, some 1080P Blu-Ray of Avatar (from HTPC via HDMI). Also a shot of web browsing.











Mode - Standard
Backlight - 7
Contrast - 95
Brightness - 47
DC - High
Gamma - -1

Everything else default, accept AMP off.

Have you attempted using AMP for your HTPC? I notice AMP only works on my DirecTV input. When I use it over PC, it's choppy as hell. I even tried swapping inputs and the calibration settings are the same.

My HTPC is set to do 1080/24P for movies. Using AMP gives it the Soap Opera effect. Off is best so the TV will run at 1080/24P as well.

These provide about 3450:1 contrast ratio on my set.
If you are willing to not care quite as much about 90-100% gamma curve (which isn't perfect anyway) you could sacrifce a trace of realism for closer to a 4000:1 CR by boosting contrast to 98. That would also very slightly toss off WB and the rest of the gamma curve as well but probably not by too horrifically much.

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 4
Contrast: 91
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 49 (this seems to give a natural saturation curve when combined with the color space settings below, however, this model doesn't actually quite cover the full sRGB so once you get around 80% and up it does live things a little undersaturated compared to the sRGB/Rec709HDTV standard but it is entirely natural for what the panel deliver; perhaps it could be argued that since it is close enough to the Rec709 and since that is what was intended that one could bump Color up a few notches to compensate although that does leave one with a less uniform saturation curve)
Tint: 50/50 (using the set test patterns color 48 and tint 51/49 seem arguably best but in the end things seem to work out a bit better at tint 50/50 i think)
Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off (if you really love it you could turn down contrat a few notches and turn this back on although it does do weird things and you won't get a really natural iamge)
Shadow Detail: 0 (I swear I don't notice any change, but perhaps I should measure and see what happens)
Gamma: 0
triads are all (R,G,B) below
Color Space: Custom
R 45,7,0
G 35,57,0
B 2,7,70
C 23,56,57
M 45,6,58
Y 54,53,0
White Balance:
Offsets: 27,22,22
Gains: 24,23,25
10pt WB and Gamma (this control is used to straighten out the kinks on the gamma curve every bit as much as it is to fine tune white balance) control:
1 8,10,8
2 0,2,2
3 -2,1,-2
4 -2,0,-5
5 1,1,-4
6 0,3,-4
7 1,5,-3
8 -1,3,-1
9 -2,1,-1
10 0,2,-2
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off (unless maybe watching under composite,component)
Warm2
DNR: Off
MPEG DNR: Off
Black Level: Normal if you send it black=0-255=white material (most PC usage, but sometimes other things if they are set this way) and Low if you send it balck=16-235=white material (most set top boxes and stand alone players)
AMP: Off (although you certainly fiddle with it)


This was calibrated to a Power Function gamma curve of 2.22.

(The ITU HDTV gamma curve standard seems hyper-protective of shadow detail and even anything below around 40% I think it might be more style for watching a very matte HDTV during the day with lots of windows and sun???)

The sRGB gamma standard also seems a bit muted for evening viewing.

I jsut went with the Power Function based on the old CRT standard. For all I know many movies are still mastered this way anyway.








It is possible to trade hue accuracy to get a bit more max saturation for a few colors that are short, perhaps it is better to get back a bit more max sat for green, red and yellow and to give up shade accuracy a bit more, at least raise them to dE3? Currently they are undersaturated enough to notice, if not terribly so and the hues are very close to exact.

I may go and look at tint again and try to see if 48/52 or something else makes the max saturation to 0 line not have the bit of kink in it.