Just how bright is too bright?

No such thing as too bright.

From a quick glance at the manual it looks like this PJ doesn't have an iris, so besides the ND filters like you mentioned there won't be much you can do about light output. One thing to remember though is that as the projector ages the bulb will dim so even if it is initially too bright for you that won't last long after you break it in. Also, a manufacturer's lumen rating isn't necessarily accurate. If you can I would see about finding a demo somewhere.

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you can always but brightness, but never create it..

I don't own one, but from the manual, it has an ECO mode to reduce the lumens and a movie mode. Those two modes plus reducing brightness should get you to a reasonable image. If not an ND filter will help. But for 3D, you'll want the brightness as it gets split more than in half in each eye of the shutterglasses, which are somewhat tinted themselves.

Not sure what screen you have, but you could also get a dark grey screen with less than 1.0 gain (e.g. .5-.8) and that would work like an ND filter, but of course would cost more. You could use the white screen for 3D then.

I believe you can get the ND filters from just about any camera supply shop.

Sorry, never actually used ND filters myself before. Hopefully someone who has can chime in.

For me, anything over 1800 Lumens is too bright.

Hmm... a small, light-controlled room. That really doesn't sound like the sweet spot for the PJ you've described. Yes, there are a few times that I wish my Sharp had a few extra lumens in the tank, but not very often & certainly not enough to justify moving up to 3000 of them. But that's me...

If you otherwise love the attributes of the Viewsonic model that you listed, then great... enjoy it and be glad. But, my advice, don't buy it because it has such a high lumen count.

Currently I am using an Epson 705HD which is rated at 2500 lumens and projectorreviews.com actually measured it higher than that in normal mode. I love the brightness when I have ambient light on in the room. Even though it is light controlled, I really don't like sitting in a cave all the time. With friends over, playing games, or watching dish, it is great. The only drawback is that the brightness tends to wash the blacks out a bit. With the lights out, I attach a ND4 filter and it instantly tames the brightness and the blacks become very good. It looks like a dedicated theater projector costing twice as much. To me it is the best of both worlds. Mr47, I see you are in Illinois. Are you at the rave theaters in Peoria?

I have owned several front projectors since my first 3-CRT Kloss Novabeam (300 lumens [or was it lux?]). I currently have a DLP Sharp DT-510. It's rated at 1000 ANSI lumens and I project it on a 76" (diag) white screen. My "theater" is my 15'Wx16'D living room, with room-darkening blinds and dimmable indirect lighting.

Each projector I have owned has been progressively brighter (and higher resolution, of course), and I have always appreciated the increased brightness. I sometimes use the iris to enhance contrast on my Sharp, but only when the room is very dark ("cavelike", as cjsiv aptly puts it). Eco-mode is desirable for extending bulb-life and decreasing fan noise but brightness suffers, and any daylight leaking into the room washes out the image.

I too am considering the PJD6531w, but primarily for its 3D capability, and only secondarily for its rated 3000 lumen output. I fear it may be too bright for 2D, even in eco-mode. That said, I think the increased brightness would greatly benefit field-sequential 3D with shutter glasses, which inherently cut brightness in half.

I am curious whether or not Mr47 has opted to buy the PJD6531w and, if so, what's your verdict on taming the brightness. Is it necessary? If so, have you tried a ND filter? Does the projector's lens readily accept filters (there appears to be a snap-ring, but no screw-in threads)?

Seems this thread is dominated by Illinoisians. Though I've lived in San Francisco for 40 years, I grew up in "The Farm Implement Manufacturing Capitol of the World" (which after incorrectly guessing "Peoria" (Caterpillar), most people get to hear more than they want about the John Deere, J.I.Case, Minneapolis-Moline, International Harvestor, and Farmalls made in my hometown, Moline).

I'd love to hear more from Mr47, and anyone else weighing in on the brightness topic.

How does one attach an ND filter? I've got an InFocus projector rated at 3000 lumens: waaaay too high for my small, completely light controlled room. I needed it for outdoor/conference room use too, though, so I went with the high lumens.

I cut a hole in my lens cap....paint lens cap black....attach filter to lens cap....

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1207439&page=2

Post #48

The problem with that is that I have a large lens that extends past the front of the projector. So that means that the lens cap looks like a bowl that covers the lens. So I couldn't just cut the lens cap.

What do you mean? Can you please explain?

Thanks, actually, that makes perfect sense. Is there a specific type of filter? How many foot-Lamberts should I go for? A ND4 gives me 50 or so, and an ND8 gives half that then?

I don't understand how cutting the lens cap won't work.....

the solution posted above is the same thing as cutting the lens cap....

The problem he has with just cutting a hole in his lens cap is that it is shaped like a bowl because the lens sticks out past the enclosure itself. What I was suggesting was merely an extension of sorts. But yes, it is still pretty much your idea.

I still think one can use the lens cap, just glue the ND filter to the outside of the lens cap, then cut out the hole (well you'd measure it all out first and cut first, but you get the idea how it would work).....I think there are other pictures of this method in the thread I posted, as thats were I got the idea from......using the lens cap is the easiest solution because you know it fits snug already.....

I don't have a flat lens cap. It fits so snugly that a flat ND filter would cause it not to latch.

See the attached image, where red is the cut lens cap with filter attached. The filter would have to physically go THROUGH the lens.

What I'm suggesting is to mount the ND filter on the outside of the lens cap, if there is more curve than will work, use two ND filters and take the glass out of one (The pack I bought came with 3 different filters)..........just suggesting this as it would be the easiest solution since the lens cap fits perfectly already....