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The Official Samsung PNxxC6500, PNxxC7000, and PNxxC8000 Settings Thread - Page 3

post #61 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantisboxer View Post

Here is how I broke my set in:

Watch normal full screen programming in "Movie" mode defaults. When not watching TV, run break in slides. I ran the slides off the USB stick, so my guess is that they run in dynamic mode. Doesn't look like you can change the settings when watching photos or videos this way. I ran this way for about 120 hours before calibration. Nothing special.

It is possible to change the settings when running slide shows. Use the "Tools" button and it will give you the options. I'm currently breaking my 58C8000 in on movie mode with contrast and brightness at 50.

btw, nice settings!
post #62 of 1472
recieved my 58C8000. When I put it in movie mode the picture is very dull and there is not enough brightness. Is the factory default settings so bad? I havent dialed in mantis settings yet.

Mantis can you give me a full list of your settings .. Thanks
post #63 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by venkidesh View Post

recieved my 58C8000. When I put it in movie mode the picture is very dull and there is not enough brightness. Is the factory default settings so bad? I havent dialed in mantis settings yet.

Mantis can you give me a full list of your settings .. Thanks

Everything you need is in the first 2 posts. Personally, I use his settings for CAL-NIGHT with Cinema Smooth for Blu-Ray and MJC set to standard for broadcast sources. All processing is turned off for PS3 playback. YMMV, but to me it looks fabulous like this (thanks mantis!)

Movie mode is way too red (Warm 2) by itself. If you haven't done so, get the new firmware right away (1019.) It improves 3D PQ a TON.

Does anybody feel like the MJC is improved with the new firmware? Seems like before everything looked like a soaptastic popup book and now it's (usually) nice and clean and halo free with no stairstepping on moving objects.
post #64 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by christberg View Post

Everything you need is in the first 2 posts. Personally, I use his settings for CAL-NIGHT with Cinema Smooth for Blu-Ray and MJC set to standard for broadcast sources. All processing is turned off for PS3 playback. YMMV, but to me it looks fabulous like this (thanks mantis!)

Movie mode is way too red (Warm 2) by itself. If you haven't done so, get the new firmware right away (1019.) It improves 3D PQ a TON.

Does anybody feel like the MJC is improved with the new firmware? Seems like before everything looked like a soaptastic popup book and now it's (usually) nice and clean and halo free with no stairstepping on moving objects.

I upgraded from 1009 to 1017 and today 1019.1 for my 7000. I would have to agree with what your saying. 1017 showed more ghosting and the picture seemed extremely clear and the focused objects were in the foreground more.

With 1019 I see less ghosting, but the black seems a tad suffered and in some cases it looks like I can see Grey scaling in faces in some scenes.

IMO 1019 seems to be a medium of shipped 1009 and 10017. Over all Id say its a improvement.

I'd like more improvement with ghosting more though.

PS Hellboy II looks incredible !
post #65 of 1472
mantis, could you take a new black level measurement after updating the tv to the newest firmware to see if it made a difference?
post #66 of 1472
do u have to do the firmware thought a usb or if you are wired from you network to the tv
post #67 of 1472
Firmware update made a lot of difference. picture looks great now. I havent dialed in the matis settings and probably will do that after break in period. I have few questions

1) When playing monsters v asliens blu ray, it didnt fill the screen. I had top and bottom bars. I though it is 16:9 format and wondering why it didnt fill the screen. Does any of you have the issue.

2) when playing DVD movies i choose screen fit and still i had top & bottm bars. Is there a way to get rif of it?

2) Also when playing in 3D, it greyed out some of the picture options including the cinema smooth.
post #68 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by runner66 View Post

do u have to do the firmware thought a usb or if you are wired from you network to the tv

I have wired internet to all the stuff in my AV setup. I had to do it that way because I get horrible wireless interference where I live. Plus you can't stream HD video on 802.11G, way too slow
post #69 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by runner66 View Post

do u have to do the firmware thought a usb or if you are wired from you network to the tv

U have to use a USB stick, network updates last I tried didn't work.
post #70 of 1472
10 Point White Balance:
Interval: R G B
1: 2 0 -3
2: 0 0 -1
3: -1 0 1
4: -2 0 0
5: -2 0 3
6: -4 0 1
7: -5 0 2
8: -2 0 4
9: -6 0 0
10: 0 0 -1

Custom Color Space:
R 44 0 3
G 21 25 5
B 0 0 67
Y 90 50 14
C 40 25 60
M 37 0 58

Can some please explain this to me, are these settings? If they are when I go in to white balance or custom color space It doesn't look familiar. Thanks
post #71 of 1472
MantisBoxer - When you get a chance to load the newest firmware on your set can you please take a black level reading again?
post #72 of 1472
I have been playing around with these settings for a while now. I have tried pretty much every option available. The only thing I am not completely happy with is the Black level.

It is not bad but it could be better. I also have a Toshiba Regza LCD and the Blacks look better on the Toshiba.

The one setting that I think improves the black levels is HDMI Black Level. It is set to Normal and grey out with everything except for 1080/24p. I think it looks better with it set to low. Anyone else try this? I think the Blacks looks better but I am not sure if this crushing them.

Mantis what do you have it set at when you are adjusting?
post #73 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by janderson36 View Post

U have to use a USB stick, network updates last I tried didn't work.

Network updates worked fine for me, was anxious to see how fw upgrade fixed the 3d brightness effect and it hasn't. Whole screen still entirely too bright in 3d, I can't see a difference
post #74 of 1472
Have you tried setting the 3D to Movie mode or calibrating it? By just putting it 3D mode the 1st time for me it was set at Dynamic.
post #75 of 1472
What did you use for break in slides?

thanks
post #76 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by schippy View Post

What did you use for break in slides?

thanks

Who's this question for?
post #77 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdotson41 View Post

Just got my PN58C6500. ISF tech will be out on May 6th to calibrate, will post setting as soon as he's finished. So far so good no buzz, just an amazing picture. Initial thoughts, I am so glad i returned the PN50B860 for the 6500. Colors and black levels seem to be improved. Can't wait to get everything dialed in.

I'd be very interested in these settings as my C6500 comes this week. Please post. Thanks
post #78 of 1472
Got my 7000 this weekend

Should I break in the TV before using these settings? 150 hours sound like an very long time to run on lowered brightness/contrast settings! I only watch about 2-3 hours a day during the week and maybe 3-6 on the weekends. Maybe 50 hours of break in should be enough.

I downloaded the slides from the G20 settings thread, are these the ones mentioned in this thread?

Thanks.
post #79 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by aim1126
Instructions:
- Turn off tv
- Press Mute-1-8-2-Power in sequence
- Once the tv is on, the service menu should appear at the top left corner.
- Go to options
- Change the model to c8000
- Press reset to factory default to exit out of the menu.
- Tv will turn off and back on, once is back on, a massage should appear saying, board has been change, don't worry, just click ok and everything should be fine.
- To get rid of the message, just go back into the service menu and change the front color to T-C-Black

You will notice that now under picture options- film mode- you will have a cinema smooth option
Also you will have a motion judder canceler option.
And last you will have two new presets, cal-day and cal-night


DISCLAIMER
I will not be held responsible for any damage done to your set. Do so at your own risk

Good luck, i would take pictures but the only way i know how to get out of the service menu is to reset to factory defaults, and i dont wanna have to change all my settings again sorry


Questions:
1) when you change from c7000 to c8000 in the service menu, do you, in effect, actually activate the Real Black Filter, or do you simply gain access to the the additional configuration options of the c8000?

2) ... and once converted to c8000, what happens to firmware upgrades? do they become automatically available and announced over the tv-internet connection as c8000 upgrades or as c7000 firmwares?

3) --- and before converting, should you first upgrade the c7000 to all available firmware updates available (last one is 1019?), or should you convert first in the service menu and then do firmware upgrades?

Thanks,
post #80 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by mperavs View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by aim1126
Instructions:
- Turn off tv
- Press Mute-1-8-2-Power in sequence
- Once the tv is on, the service menu should appear at the top left corner.
- Go to options
- Change the model to c8000
- Press reset to factory default to exit out of the menu.
- Tv will turn off and back on, once is back on, a massage should appear saying, board has been change, don't worry, just click ok and everything should be fine.
- To get rid of the message, just go back into the service menu and change the front color to T-C-Black

You will notice that now under picture options- film mode- you will have a cinema smooth option
Also you will have a motion judder canceler option.
And last you will have two new presets, cal-day and cal-night


DISCLAIMER
I will not be held responsible for any damage done to your set. Do so at your own risk

Good luck, i would take pictures but the only way i know how to get out of the service menu is to reset to factory defaults, and i dont wanna have to change all my settings again sorry


Questions:
1) when you change from c7000 to c8000 in the service menu, do you, in effect, actually activate the Real Black Filter, or do you simply gain access to the the additional configuration options of the c8000?

2) ... and once converted to c8000, what happens to firmware upgrades? do they become automatically available and announced over the tv-internet connection as c8000 upgrades or as c7000 firmwares?

3) --- and before converting, should you first upgrade the c7000 to all available firmware updates available (last one is 1019?), or should you convert first in the service menu and then do firmware upgrades?

Thanks,

I was under the impression from the CES video reports that the Real Black Filter is incorporated with the glass screen.
post #81 of 1472
Just posted on the main forum, but also want to post here.

"Just would like to say my PN50C8000 from crutchfield just shipped. So anyone else who had one on order with them check your inbox. Should have it soon. Will post impressions and pictues. Wont have 3d Blu-ray player, but will have glasses so i can test 2D-3D for people.

So what is going to be the best thing for me to do to break in. This will be my first plasma. I know so far from being on this forum, will change it to movie mode, and take it off of dynamic ASAP.I am also going to go over to Mantis settings thread, and test those out. But I still have questions, like how long do i break it in, should i use the AVS forum free break in. Like i said im new to plasma so all the help would be much appreciated. thanks."

So i will try you settings mantis and report back how i think they look.
post #82 of 1472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by schippy View Post

What did you use for break in slides?

thanks

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1107017

Check out this thread. I put these on a USB stick and ran them using the media player on the TV.
post #83 of 1472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Banilejo View Post

Got my 7000 this weekend

Should I break in the TV before using these settings? 150 hours sound like an very long time to run on lowered brightness/contrast settings! I only watch about 2-3 hours a day during the week and maybe 3-6 on the weekends. Maybe 50 hours of break in should be enough.

I downloaded the slides from the G20 settings thread, are these the ones mentioned in this thread?

Thanks.

See this thread for the slides: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1107017

I don't watch that much TV either (maybe 4 hours a day on average), but when not watching, I ran the slides, 24 hours a day for about 6 days before calibrating. I can tell you with the initial IR on this set (it is pretty bad when new) you will not want to calibrate before this. The phosphors on this set are pretty hot out of the box and your settings will change over time especially in the first few hundred hours.

I will be posting some updated settings based on further aging of the set and firmware changes by the weekend.

Mantis
post #84 of 1472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by janderson36 View Post

U have to use a USB stick, network updates last I tried didn't work.

I am hardwired and I was able to update from 1017 to 1019 through the network with no issues. I did it with a USB stick from the stock firmware to 1017.
post #85 of 1472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsloeza View Post

10 Point White Balance:
Interval: R G B
1: 2 0 -3
2: 0 0 -1
3: -1 0 1
4: -2 0 0
5: -2 0 3
6: -4 0 1
7: -5 0 2
8: -2 0 4
9: -6 0 0
10: 0 0 -1

Custom Color Space:
R 44 0 3
G 21 25 5
B 0 0 67
Y 90 50 14
C 40 25 60
M 37 0 58

Can some please explain this to me, are these settings? If they are when I go in to white balance or custom color space It doesn't look familiar. Thanks

The top set of numbers is for 10 point white balance. You will need to go to advanced settings to see this. You will first need to set the normal white balance (2-point) and then go to the 10 point and turn it ON. From that point, you will see 4 sliders. The first is called Interval, which corresponds to greyscale levels 10 thru 100 IRE. At each interval, there are settings for (R)ed, (G)reen, and (B)lue. Set them according to the provided list and then move to the next interval and repeat.

The second set of numbers is for Custom Color Space. Once again, you will need to turn this on in the Advanced Settings menu. Like the 10p White Balance, there are different RGB settings for the different primary and secondary colors (R)ed, (G)reen, (B)lue, (Y)ellow, (C)yan, and (M)agenta. Toggle through each color and set the RGB levels as shown. I should have been a bit more clear on the this. Just know that the order of the numbers given correlates with the order the options appear in the menu.

Hope this helps!

Mantis
post #86 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantisboxer View Post

See this thread for the slides: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1107017

I don't watch that much TV either (maybe 4 hours a day on average), but when not watching, I ran the slides, 24 hours a day for about 6 days before calibrating. I can tell you with the initial IR on this set (it is pretty bad when new) you will not want to calibrate before this. The phosphors on this set are pretty hot out of the box and your settings will change over time especially in the first few hundred hours.

I will be posting some updated settings based on further aging of the set and firmware changes by the weekend.

Mantis

Hey mantis question. So for the break in, should I run the slides in Dynamic or movie mode?
post #87 of 1472
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post18573467



Good photos!
Can you post other pics from a blu ray disc?
Sorry for my bad english but i'm italian and i'd like to buy this summer the new samsung PS50C6500.
In italy a lot of users say that blacks for ps50c6500 are bad.
Is there someone that is very happy for having PS50C6500? How do you consider black level for this model?

Thanks!
post #88 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by firesoldier View Post

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post18573467



Good photos!
Can you post other pics from a blu ray disc?
Sorry for my bad english but i'm italian and i'd like to buy this summer the new samsung PS50C6500.
In italy a lot of users say that blacks for ps50c6500 are bad.
Is there someone that is very happy for having PS50C6500? How do you consider black level for this model?

Thanks!

i have a 58c6500 and in my opinion it has better blacks than my previous pn50c7000 had
post #89 of 1472
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calilife17 View Post

Hey mantis question. So for the break in, should I run the slides in Dynamic or movie mode?

I ran mine in the default media player mode, which I believe is Dynamic. I honestly don't think it makes that much difference, though Dynamic will age the panel faster. The main thing is that you fill the screen images of uniform brightness levels to age the phosphors evenly.
post #90 of 1472
Quote:
Originally Posted by mantisboxer View Post

The top set of numbers is for 10 point white balance. You will need to go to advanced settings to see this. You will first need to set the normal white balance (2-point) and then go to the 10 point and turn it ON. From that point, you will see 4 sliders. The first is called Interval, which corresponds to greyscale levels 10 thru 100 IRE. At each interval, there are settings for (R)ed, (G)reen, and (B)lue. Set them according to the provided list and then move to the next interval and repeat.

The second set of numbers is for Custom Color Space. Once again, you will need to turn this on in the Advanced Settings menu. Like the 10p White Balance, there are different RGB settings for the different primary and secondary colors (R)ed, (G)reen, (B)lue, (Y)ellow, (C)yan, and (M)agenta. Toggle through each color and set the RGB levels as shown. I should have been a bit more clear on the this. Just know that the order of the numbers given correlates with the order the options appear in the menu.

Hope this helps!

Mantis

Thank you for explaining it, tried your settings and I must say it looks much better.
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