The "Official" Pioneer VSX-1020-K Owner's Thread - Page 7

I pondered that idea.but just the thinking of sliding that tv (and I installed it on a turning shelf that does not turn much because of its size and ~250 pounds) to get to the connection.I think I'll wait for a new one to deal with moving itshould have seen my wife and I get it on the shelf thought she was going down!.....the tv that is

Item #1 -- You have a 5.1.system and that's the way you should calibrate it, see pages 38ff for the "Basic Setup". On page 39, it shows you a diagram (that pops up after you have finished the first test tone sweep) which allows you to confirm what speakers you have connected. Make sure you follow the directions exactly, otherwise you will not get a good audio calibration.

Item #2 -- To start with, the sub should not be set to "Plus" (which sends both LFE and the low bass to your sub). If your sub has a gain control, it should be set to about 30% to 40% of maximum, to start with. MCACC will not completely calibrate your sub, so when it gets finished, you might want to go into the manual speaker setup (chapter 11, page 99ff) and increase the sub drive level. Remember, your Sony sub-woofer may not be doing a very good job (some models can be very anemic).

Item #3 -- Look at the chart on the right hand side of page 22. Only the Component inputs can be converted to any of the other types of outputs. The HDMI input can only be sent to the HDMI output, per government regulations (at the request of the movie studios).

Item #4 -- I didn't read the entire manual (yes it is not organized very well), but it looks like the "audio/video parameter option display" can only be seen using the "Monitor" output (using the component connections or the composite connection). It looks like it will not be output via the HDMI connection.

BTW, I downloaded the manual from the Pioneer web site for the VSX-1020-K (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...0-K.Kuro?tab=D). I had to actually download it twice, since the first time I did not get the English version. It is much easier to read (and search) the manual on a PC. For me, it's very hard to find anything in the hard copy. Having owned a number of Pioneer AVRs (over the past 30 years), the organization of their manuals still stink.

MitsuHelp -- The HDMI inputs cannot be output to anything but HDMI, per government regulations (see my post above). It's an anti-piracy thing and applies to all AVRs and Pre-Pro electronics. If your TV has a DVI input, then you can use an HDMI to DVI cable (or an HDMI to DVI adapter plus a HDMI cable). AFIK, no cable box or satellite STB is currently using HDCP (with the possible exception of the PPV movie channels).

Only Component inputs can be output to any other output connection from the VSX-1020-K.

I'm looking at the chart on p. 22. It shows both component and composite inputs being converted to the other types.

The chart you referred to above shows that any of the three outputs counts as monitor output, including the HDMI output.

GregLee -- Yes, but the question was "could the HDMI input be sent to the component outputs". The answer is no -- for all AVRs legally sold in the USA.

The HDMI output is not listed as a "Monitor" output, in that chart (or on the back panel of the 1020) -- look again.

However, on page 70, it says that the HDMI Out connector will work as a Monitor Out jack.

Thanks for the input guys. In the end, I decided to go with the Onkyo since I have a credit line with Newegg and I got the $120 (!!) iPod dock for free. After reading more in the 608 vs. 1020 thread, it seems like the Onkyo will probably have the better sound quality anyway. Maybe when I'm no longer in an apartment I'll look into a Pioneer Elite for next year or so.

Sorry to bump this, but it looks like my post got lost in the shuffle. Is anyone able to answer this?

Thanks,

j

Petrus -- Read that statement very carefully.
This does not say that the HDMI out is a "Monitor" output. It only says that the V. CONV function applies to the HDMI output as well as to the other outputs.

Pioneer manuals, in general, have to be taken literally, with no guessing (even if what they say isn't clear).

dpenn63 -- The Onkyo 608 should be pretty good (at least the 607 was). The 607 was reported to be the coolest running of all of the Onkyo AVRs.

There is no real "best" AVR in the low cost range, anyway. It's a matter of cost vs. having the functions, options, connectivity, and power output that you need. There are minor performance differences, but those can usually be minimized by proper setup. There are some differences in the audio quality of the pre-amp stages, which can effect the character of the audio. Doing some listening tests should give you some idea what those are.

jonathanwinn -- If you go way back to post #63, MitsuHelp asked that same question. However, what he found was that, apparently, Zone 2 can echo what is playing in your main (Zone 1) room. It's only if you want to send a different program material to Zone 2, that you have to use the analog inputs. There was some discussion following his post that further talked about this issue (with no real conclusions).

I don't have the 1020, and I haven't read the manual (downloaded from the Pioneer site) in detail, so I don't really know the answer.

Thanks for the input CT_Wiebe. I will play around couple of more days.

1. I am having a 5.1 setup. So, what is the best speaker system setup in MCACC. This is a simple question but I am unable to find the answer from the manual. It is very confusing which setup I should use if I am using only 5.1 speakers.

What I meant was which of the setting from Page 100 - 1 to 5 I should be using? Is it Normal SB/FH or Normal SB/FW or Speaker B or Zone 2 for 5.1

In the manual it says before the Auto calibaration I need to choose one of the above system.

Since the difference among these settings concerns what you will do with the last two amplifier channels you have, then if you are only going to have the 5.1 speakers, I don't think it makes any difference. Choose "Normal SB/FH", say, and if you don't connect up either SB or FH speakers, this will be equivalent to "Normal" 5.1. When you do the calibration, MCACC will detect that you don't have either SB or FH, and will set you up accordingly.

OK, finally got my pioneer hooked up and the MCACC calibrated. It sounds pretty decent, I'm not BLOWN AWAY, but maybe its because i was used to my old receiver just being LOUD. But so far I'm loving it. Something I did notice is that the center channel is WAY more clear now, which is great for dialog. Sub could be louder, but thats just me liking bass

Couple questions I wanted to ask to see if anyone here would be able to help. I'm not new by any means to A/V stuff, but I'm no expert either. So ignore my stupidity if I ask obvious questions ha

1. I'm using an Onkyo sub, and it does have the volume knob on the back of the sub. Ive noticed that people say you should put it to like 30 or 40% then do the MCACC. I had mine all the way up to 100 percent (had it like that with my old receiver) when I ran the test. Would that explain the lower levels of bass? And should I redue the test with it set at a lower percentage?

2. The TrueHD and DTS-Master Audio is what sold me, Ive been screwing around with a couple of blu rays i have, but didn't notice a HUGE difference over the normal 5.1 tracks from my old receiver. Is it just me? or do i not have it calibrated right?

3. And finally (for now), I don't know if I'm just stupid or just not pressing something right. But I have my Playstation 3 (for movies) and my Xbox 360 (for games) running through the pioneer. PS3 is HDMI and 360 is component. The sounds coming through fine on the 5.1 but no sound is coming through on my TV. How can I fix this?

Thanks guys

First, go to page 19. You should hook up your speakers as Front R, Center, Front R, Surround Right, and Surround Left. Placement of the Front and center channels should be obvious -- around your display and centered around it (center channel under, preferred, or over the display, if a TV set and placed low). The 2 surround channels should be placed at either side of your listening position (on the walls is preferred) and about 2' (or more) above the listeners heads (and not aimed at them).

I can see why you are confused. Pages 100 and following are for the Advanced Setup, which is used for fine-tuning your system. The first thing you need to do is to set up the speakers per the instructions in Chapter 3, pages 14 through 36. You will not be using the "Height", "Wide, or "Zone 2" (speaker B) options at all. Your setup will be similar to the Plan "E", Main Zone, on page 16. You will not be using the "Surround Back" (SB) speakers either (those are for 7.1 channel only). Placing the Surround speakers as shown in Plan "E" Main Zone (page 16) only applies if you are using bookshelf type speakers for your surrounds (and not speakers designated specifically for surround sound use).

For your reference, the only speakers you will be setting up are (Pages 100 to 102) Front (FR & FL), Center, Surround R and Surround Left (Surr), and the sub-woofer (SW = Yes). To start with, you should set all of the main (5) channel speakers to "Small" and the Crossover to 80Hz. However, you don't have to worry about that to start with.

After completing the hook up, you should then run the Basic MCACC, per the instructions in Chapter 4, Basic Setup (pages 37 through 41). At that point, you can go to Chapter 11, The System and the other setup on pages 99 through 106. You can also go to Chapter 10, Advanced MCACC Menu (pages 85 through 98).

For starters, neither Chapter 10 or Chapter 11 is important. They can be very confusing, as you observed. All of the instructions in Chapter 11 have done nothing but create confusion. As I said, Chapter 11, and Chapter 10 (yes they should be reversed, IMHO, are for fine-tuning your setup, and not needed initially. Fortunately, MCACC is hard to confuse, if you have your speakers hooked up and placed correctly.

Sorry for rambling, but your questions sounded like you might need more detail than the manual gave you.

GregLee -- That's very close to being true, except that the Height/Width channels run off the "Speaker B" connections, and those will confuse MCACC, if they are used instead of the normal Front R&L outputs.

Yes, that would explain it. Yes, you should redo it. (And then listen to something with bass, and if there's not enough, turn up the sub volume.)

[quote=GregLee;18583735]I'm looking at the chart on p. 22. It shows both component and composite inputs being converted to the other types.


Thanks CT_Wiebe.....I seem to remember this from years ago but forgot...

Has anybody tried to use "etherchannel" that HDMI 1.4 provides?
What are the uses and is there any special cable required?

Hi Guys,
just wanted to ask a simple question for the ppl who already have this receiver set up. Does this receiver have enough power outup for 5 floorstanding speakers at decent loud volume without distortion. I am thinking of running this with ED Mtm floorstanding for front and ED mtm for center and ED A5S=300 Sub and also two Polk Monitor 60s for the surround. I want to make sure i can use this to play loud music for home parties and abvoiusly the blueray movies.
I can also use better idea for speakes with this one as i have to buy everything now. My budget is around $2000.00 including speakers, Sub and receiver.

Thanks

Yes. The HDMI Ethernet Channel feature will require a new type of cable, either a Standard HDMI Cable with Ethernet or a High-Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet, depending on the maximum resolution to be supported.

The HDMI 1.4 specification adds a data channel to the HDMI connection, enabling high-speed, bi-directional communication. Connected devices that include this feature can send and receive data via 100 Mb/sec Ethernet, making them instantly ready for any IP-based application. The HDMI Ethernet Channel allows internet-enabled HDMI devices to share an internet connection via the HDMI link, with no need for a separate Ethernet cable. It also provides the connection platform that will allow HDMI-enabled components to share content between devices.

Thanks for the info / Wiki para. What exact kind of cable you are talking? Can I plug into my router to get an IP over HDMI and use it?

^^^

keep in mind it (ethernet over hdmi) is an optional part of the spec, and may or may not be supported in every device that is hdmi 1.4....

i wouldn't hold my breath... iirc, kurt the cable guy (bluejeans cable) commented several months ago that he didn't expect anyone to implement it soon... as always, that's subject to change...

i can see it being a bit more useful in the car world than the home world, actually...

edit: it will look like any other hdmi cable from the outside...

You would need a router with an HDMI port.. I've not seen any... perhaps there is an HDMI cable with an ethernet plug on one end and an HDMI plug on the other.. don't know, it's pretty new stuff

^^^

at the risk of repeating myself...

it will look just like your existing hdmi cable from the outside...

hmm..thats not a promising info though . My understanding is, if ONE device (X) is connected to internet and there is a 1.4 HDMI enabled device (Y) connected to device X - then Y can also have IP based traffic coming into.

- Or perhaps a simple Ethernet-to-HDMI adapter that can plug into your existing router...Yes, indeed new stuff.

^^^

yup. as long as implemented, that's a correct understanding...

i don't see it as particularly useful... a cheap switch would be just as effective and no doubt be more reliable...

I'm thinking if someone has not already come up with it, an HDMI cable with an ethernet plug on one end for use with existing routers / switches would be a money maker.

One device to Rule Them All ..

four letters...

h... d... c... p...