Quote:
Originally Posted by 413X3 
My audio settings keep resetting every time I pause my cable tv. They keep going back to Dolby Movie when I keep setting Dolby Pro Logic. When the channel is paused, and I change it to Dolby Pro Logic, and hit play again, Dolby Movie comes back up instead of Dolby Digital! What's going on here? Why won't it stay on Dolby Pro Logic then Dolby Digital when the channel uses it? I don't understand.
Also is it good to keep the default audio decoded on dolby pro logic, or is auto surround the best?

My audio settings keep resetting every time I pause my cable tv. They keep going back to Dolby Movie when I keep setting Dolby Pro Logic. When the channel is paused, and I change it to Dolby Pro Logic, and hit play again, Dolby Movie comes back up instead of Dolby Digital! What's going on here? Why won't it stay on Dolby Pro Logic then Dolby Digital when the channel uses it? I don't understand.
Also is it good to keep the default audio decoded on dolby pro logic, or is auto surround the best?
Hi 413X3 -- I'm not sure what you're doing / trying to do but I just want to comment on your last sentence. Basically you have four buttons that you can press to change the modes on the 1020.
- Auto / ALC / Direct : this will toggle between Auto Surround, Auto Level Control and Stream Direct / Stream Pure Direct
- Standard : this will force Standard Surround Mode and toggle between a bunch of different ways to play surround sound
- Advanced: this will toggle between Surround Effect modes, in which reverberation and other processing is applied
- Stereo: this will force Stereo mode and toggle between Stereo, Front Stage Surround Advance Focus, Front Stage Surround Wide and Sound Retriever
So what do those modes do exactly?
- Auto Surround: if the input is a surround stream, it will use the appropriate decoder (ex. Dolb Digital DTS, ProLogic, etc.). If the input is stereo it will keep it stereo, using Neural Surround mode for FM radio, or Sound Retriever Air for the adapter input. This is basically what you want in most cases.
- Auto Level Control: this is the same but will try to equalize playback level. I personally don't like the result as it raises the volume of the surround channels quite a bit.
- Direct: removes every processing except MCACC calibration and phase control
- Pure Direct: removes all processing including calibration and phase control
- Standard modes: using these, you will force surround sound even when the source is stereo. This is also where you select modes using front heights and wides. I guess this is where you try selecting Dolby Pro Logic? Note that selecting Dolby Pro Logic there is only possible for stereo sources.
- Advanced modes: as previously explained, this will force surround sound and add effects such as echo or reverberation, which is pretty useless. The only interesting Advanced modes are Extended Stereo (in which stereo sources are sent equally to all surround speakers, which is great for ambient music) and Phones Surround, which uses the surround tracks and mix them down to stereo for the headphones output instead of using the stereo track.
- Stereo: this will force stereo playback even of surround inputs. The Front Stage Surround Advance features are different ways of mixing the surround tracks into stereo channels, while Sound Retriever is supposed to be a processing meant to improve playback of compressed stereo formats such as MP3s.
The problem with the 1020 is that if you select a mode other than Auto, it will stick to it, so if you select Advanced Extended Stereo mode for example while you listen to music on your PS3, and then later pop in a blu-ray, you'll get the stereo track extended on all channels unless you remember to revert to Auto mode. Thus, the auto mode really is recommended since the receiver will be able to select the appropriate surround or stereo mode. If you're listening to a stereo input, and select Standard mode, it will default to Pro Logic IIx Movie, which is probably why you end up with it more often than you like. Maybe the mode selection is reset when you pause then hit play; not sure why. Then again, if you're playing stereo content with matrixed channels (Pro Logic 4.1 sources), using Auto will recognize it and play it optimally. It may be that the 1020 will revert to PL11x Movie if it doesn't detect any matrixed content in a stereo stream. Matrixed channels in a stereo stream (i.e. Dolby Pro Logic 4.1) is an older technology that is not used much nowadays. Do you have Pro Logic sources? If you're listening to HD TV for example, the stream will by Dolby Digital 5.1 most of the time. If you hit Auto mode, you'll see what the receiver think is the best to play the current source. If it selects Dolby Digital, leave it that way. If it selects Stereo, then you can try expanding that using one of the Standard modes.
I hope this helps despite the length an the fact that I did not answer directly to your question...




















Read that again... I was referring to wall warts, you know, the external power supplies that plug into the wall or lie close by on the floor. I have thousands of them behind my HT cabinet and I'm running out of place on two power strips. I'm barely exaggerating. The Pioneer BT dongle is just a dongle while the Logitech adapter has to be plugged in. BTW I saw there are similar adapters by Belkin and Aluratek but they're not very well reviewed.
Started again and so far have gotten skips again, sometimes multiple only seconds apart, enough to really annoy. Might have to try w/the AE wifi enabled as a network extender and see if that makes it any better, but ethernet should be the fastest...so maybe my phone wifi connect isn't so hot?