Originally Posted by kentyman
Another thing to keep in mind is that you can always switch between Speaker B and Zone 2 modes. All of my speaker outputs are patched into a wall plate. All I would need to do is unplug where Speaker B L/R Out plugs into Outdoor L/R In and instead patch in Rear L/R Out. Hopefully after that all I have to do is switch from Speaker B setup to Zone 2 setup in the menus. Hopefully this won't mess with all the rest of my MCACC settings?
Well this is not an option for me as the next time I pull the receiver out of its whole, it will be in order to upgrade it
Wall plates must be nice
It's a bit weird how there's one set of terminals for either surround backs, Zone 2 or bi-amping, and another set for either Speaker B, Front heights or Front wides. I guess it's because many people want to switch between surround backs or front wides for example with all 9 speakers connected.
I don't see how it would upset the MCACC settings as Speaker B and Zone 2 are not really concerned with those.
Out of curiosity, do you "miss" 7.1, or can you not really hear much of a difference?
Not really but that is because I had a crappy 7.1 setup and now I have a good 5.1 setup. Before, my couch was back to a bay-window. At first I had a 5.1 setup with the surrounds very close to the extremities of the couch, at 90 degree angles. This is suboptimal for various reasons. I had a pair of big, older bookshelves laying around so I decided to try using them as surround backs dropped behind the couch, firing up. This is also quite sub-optimal
but they gave a nice diffuse field, albeit quite absorbed by the couch. The timbre was far from uniform and where 7.1 content was the most beneficial -- games, IMHO, in which sound sources would travel all around the auditory field -- the effect was a bit jarring.
Now the furniture is re-arranged and behind the couch is a hallway with a wardrobe, and a bench for our daughter to store her clothes and sit while getting dressed to go outside. Absolutely no room for surround backs, unless I decide to put them in the ceiling. However, I have lots of space for the surrounds in 5.1 and I'm able to place them about 3 ft from the couch at 120 deg and a bit higher than the listeners' heads. Ideal location, and I must admit that I like it much more. So in short, I think a 5.1 setup with ideally placed speakers is better than a half-assed 7.1 setup with mismatched speakers.
Wait, I'm confused. My in-wall (outdoor) dial is installed just between the receiver and the two B Speakers, so it only changes the volume of the other "room". I'm not aware some something that changes the balance between both rooms.
I guess because of this, I didn't really need that outdoor volume control. Then again, there's something nice about not needing my phone, or that anyone can easily adjust it without needing a device. I guess I just have an additional
way to adjust volume.
Also, that affects master volume, which might not be what I want.
Wait sorry... what I meant was simply that in my case, using Speaker B, I *could* use the in-wall dial to adjust the balance between the two rooms, and still use the master volume to adjust the overall volume. And by adjusting balance, it's not really balance, just the relative volume between the two rooms. So yes you still may want the outdoor volume control, and I totally agree that having an old-school way of adjusting the volume in the -- let's call it Speaker B zone -- is totally worth it.
Let me know if you do this, as I might be interested in helping. I'm a Software Engineer by trade, so we should have plenty of expertise; free time is the hard thing to come by.
You're absolutely right about free time. I once had *so much* free time but *so little* money to spend on HT gear
but now with a growing family, I just watch my piles of shame grow (you know, piles of unwatched movies and unplayed games), and it takes me ages to fix simple things. I can't really justify any time in that project, at least, not using an AVR that can't be turned on remotely. I bought the 1020 without knowing about Network Standby in the first place, and I realize this is really something I could have used.
But PM me if you're interested by the comms specs. I tested the protocol (using telnet) and it's really, really simple. I could fire commands to say, set the volume at -20 dB directly (can't even do that with the remote). So if I had any skills programming for mobile it would be straightforward to make yet another control app for the 1020. By the way, the VSX app you linked for Android is quite nice, more pleasing to the eye than iControlAVA in my opinion. I bought the complete version and it seems to be functional. I couldn't test Zone 2 / Speaker B settings of course.
Another project of mine would be to improve on the net radio using a home server. I *love* the net radio on the 1020 since you can operate it quite easily without the TV on, just using the display (or a control app). But the 20 station limit is a bit restricting in this day and age, and of course, I'd love to be able to send music to the receiver from my mobile devices without having to buy the bluetooth adapter, nor plugging them in, nor turning the TV on. My plan was to set up a streaming server on my home computer, to which one station on the 1020 could be pointed to, and have a web interface to control the streaming server's playlist using my own music collection. It turns out that no software can do exactly that (some come close) and I abandoned the idea.
In the end the problem may be solved more efficiently by upgrading to a receiver that supports AirPlay and/or the Android equivalent. Set-top boxes (AppleTV, WDTV or the like) all requires the TV to be on, and sometimes, I just want to listen to music without the plasma glow
Originally Posted by kentyman
Is the discussion here about LFE filtering
a reason to opt for a higher crossover frequency?
Interesting discussion but I can't really believe Pioneer would be so dumb as to *sacrifice* LFE content (by simply dropping LFE content above the crossover frequency). So either the crossover applies to both redirected bass *and* LFE, meaning that the upper frequency part of the LFE channel is redirected to the mains, or *all* content on the LFE channel is sent to the sub regardless of the crossover setting. In Audyssey-equipped AVRs (Denon, Onkyo, etc.) you can specify a different crossover for all channels including the LFE. As Pioneer recommends a 80 Hz crossover for THX gear, I can't believe they're just not sending the 80-120 Hz anywhere