Official Sharp Aquos/Quattron LC-XXLE810UN/LC-XXLE820UN Owners Thread - Page 52

Does this mean I can clean the screen with something like windex or even just wipe with a most paper towel?

I have an extremely dusty house with four dogs that go in and out of the house all day long unrestricted and I can't stand the thought of not being able to clean the screen without scratching it.

I WAS going to buy the 810 sunday at sears as they had a special but this has got me thinking as I'd rather buy a GLASS screen.

Sears has the 810 after rebates for 1350 plus tax on their family and friend thing on sunday between 5 and 9pm...

I have found this used in good condition for the same price. Should I go for it?

Thanks

George

Here is some new information I did not know. The 810 is only able to connect to the internet through the preset pages and widgets loaded into the browser. The manual on page 55 talks about "saving URLs." I thought this meant that you could navigate to other pages and save them but it does not. All accessible pages are pre-saved and updated when links are clicked. I hope there will be some work around soon. Can anyone confirm if this is the same for 820/920/925 models?


"Thank you for contacting Sharp Electronics Corporation's AQUOS support.

Dear Mr. Rowland,

Sorry to hear you were having trouble registering your product, I do apologize for the inconvenience. Unfortunately the Widgets that come with the TV are the only ones that are available to be accessed. Unfortunately your not able to add any or go onto the actual Internet. I do apologize.

I would like to know what you thought about your satisfaction with your email experience. Please click the survey link to complete our online customer satisfaction survey.

Erin E

Customer Assistance Center

If you need to reply, please be sure to include in your message all information from prior email messages & replies. If your email client automatically deletes prior email thread information, it will cause a delay while we look up your support history."

From what little I know, that's the way I understand it too. Pretty crummy if you ask me considering even the cheesiest phone can do it

the only way to get full access, is to hook up the new Sony web browser (499.00), or a full computer.
What we did, was order a mini mac (699.00 brand new plus 2% back from Ebates at MacMall, it also came with a free printer and some software that we can sell on Ebay) no tax, free delivery and you get a WHOLE computer, that fits nicely under the TV, or on a table top, with a hard drive and CD drive. The new mini macs also hook up via HDMI cable, giving it a clean crisp lines. An Ethernet wire gives super fast internet, and a wireless keyboard with a track pad, gives us FULL use of the internet, and all of our stored movies are also on the mini mac. If you want full access, I highly suggest that this is the way to go!

JG

Well, I personally intend to hook it up to my workstation which has 4 ports on the graphic card for monitors and tv's so I should be good there then. I still think that's a bit sad when they can't include that.

Knowing was glass, and I hadn't cleaned it since I bought it, I used T'nB Screen Cleaner (Nettoyage 'ecran).

It's perfect.
Beautiful finish to it. Not a single mark I could see, even at an angle in bright sunlight.

Once applied wait for it to clear and then wipe to a polish with a cotton cloth (it doesn't have to be smooth).

Sweet! So where do I get this liquid gold in the US?

Klear is a good product for cleaning LCD screens, and it's available in the US.

Thanks.

Hey, do you know if you can buy them real small kegs in non alcoholic beer?
Serious question by the way...

This calibration has been updated see P53

[Work in progress]

This calibration is for Blu-ray Movies only and getting THX performance in PC mode as you would expect from Movie mode (but obviously we didn't get with what Sharp was trying to achieve).

Green and Red Clipping is equal - they're both reference level in performance. Red used to be vague (even with all 5-6 channels present). Now they're almost as distinct as Green.
In Iron Man, you will see detail in the red (and gold) armour that was never there before. The Blue clipping component simply cannot be improved - there's only 3 channels present (or I have a faulty panel); I tried to find a way to bring them out - it's not possible as far as I am concerned.

I'm really debating buying this TV in 60", also considering:
Sony KDL60EX700
Samsung UN60C6300

I save nearly $300 by going with Sharp and it was initially my first pick. I read through the first few and last few pages. Is there any reason I should avoid this TV in favor of the others?

Mainly watching satellite HDTV, limited Blu-ray. Living room watching from about 10-12', sun isn't that bad and I can defuse most light with blinds. Currently have a 58" Samsung B-series Plasma that I'm moving to the bedroom since the Plasma puts out too much heat for our viewing distance (and there's a walkway right in front of it).

Plan to order from Abe's of Maine.

Well, I found a LC-52LE820UN for 1600 bucks which I'm happy with (new with warranty) and in case someone is interested, he's got one more coming.

Can't wait. I bought two server racks/cabinets recently and was going to make a furniture kinda with both of them with my desk in between.

Whatchall think?



That brown stuff on the sides is supposed to be some kind of shelving or something to keep papers and stuff in. Don't know what I'm doing there so I just put it there
to represent so to speak

Just picked up the LC-46LE810UN, after enjoying my LC-37D40U for the last four years (still works great). Happy to see the calibration threads, after they helped me so much the last time. Apologies if I missed it, but is there a consolidated post or excel file with all of the custom settings?

I'm guessing no but that's just a guess. The guy that sold me the tv said something about getting a calibration dvd but I told him I'd be checking out the settings in this thread

Thanks all

Hey guys,
I just ordered the 40LE810 and hopefully should be here in a few days. I just can't wait! So to prepare I have been scouring the forum looking at calibration settings, ect.

I was hoping you guys could give me a little direction though. After initial hardware setup, I should probably do a firmware update. Is there anything else I should be doing before playing with the settings? I don't have a calibration disk and will probably use some of oplompolom's settings that i have seen (pc mode on this page and the rest on page 49) and then tweak from there.
Are these the right settings that I should start with or do you have any other suggestions for me?
Oh by the way, the tv's main use will be for ps3/360 gaming, and blu-ray/dvd movies played of the ps3.

Thanks in advance

Thanks for the reply! So if I understand you, you are running the Ethernet from the wall to your minimac then an HDMI from the minimac to your TV set. Then using a wireless keyboard/mouse with that setup. Sounds good to me.

Do you have a blue ray player? I was thinking if I could get a blue ray player with wifi or possibly a PS3 that can connect that might be another way to go. Still exploring options though.

That wouldn't be too much strain on your neck with the TV that high?

We did have to hook up our existing Blu -Ray player, as a component. But the PS3, didn't offer us anything else that we needed. They have a new one coming out sometime soon (?),, and we didn't want to end up with something that didn't do things that we needed it for. We are not gamers, so the Mini-Mac meant more sense to us. But if you can get full internet, and you have gamers in the house then go for the Ps3. Either way you need something with a full internet browser to surf the web. Good luck!

Well I bought one of the 52" 810 Quattrons to compare with another set I got on a very good private sale deal. I returned the Sharp but I though I would share my impressions for those looking to pick one up. The price is a steal right now anywhere they are left. I used settings in this thread and my own calibration images to fine tune the set, here are my impressions.

Overall Design
The Sharp is a good looking TV and the big chin some people describe really does not get in the way. I wish that the plastic bezel was made from a higher grade plastic though because the bezel isn't very flat and produces wavy reflections. The plastic bezel on the Sony EX series of TV sets is better quality. The metal back of the TV is very solid an the base does attach securely, however the screws that attach the base to the TV are very short.

Picture Quality
The most important aspects of picture quality are the backlight and contrast. In my unit the backlight was the most uniform I have seen from an edge lit TV. There was no clouding and minimal flashlighting on an all black screen. There was also no clouding on an all white screen. I would give the backlight a 9/10 on the Sharp because its uniformity should be the envy of every other edge lit set.

Black level was a completely different story however. The Sharp cheats on an all black screen by nearly turning the backlight completely off when no color information is received. This happens even with OPC and all power saving features turned off. Adding just a small white dot or 2% RGB levels will cause the black level to degrade significantly from the all black screen. The Samsung 6000 series and Sony EX series outperform the Sharp in black level because their screens are darker on the starfield and 2% RGB test.

Contrast was another issue as well. The Sharp loves to crush whites and blacks. The out of the box settings crushed over 30% of the white end of the grayscale and nearly 25% of the grayscale. I set the backlight at -8 because that gave the best overall level to start. I use a 25 step block pattern that drops 1 level for each step. By counting the number of visible steps I can determine the level of crush. At 20 contrast all 25 steps are visible. Going above 24 contrast will start to crush whites and by 30 all 25 top white levels will be pure white. That means that above 30 white areas will lose a lot of detail. The best contrast setting is 23.

The black end of the grayscale was a nightmare. In order to render all 25 of the steps the brightness needed to be raised to 18. This killed the overall contrast of the set and really degraded the picture quality. 0 Brightness crushed 19 steps and -4 crushed 22. Unless you want severely degraded contrast you must live with a high level of black crush on this TV. Shadow detail will be compromised. The good news is that even with a high level of black crush in image tests it was not as noticeable while watching films as I thought it would be. The quad pixel design probably does help a lot in that regard.

Color accuracy out of the box is terrible. The good news is that Sharp lets you adjust nearly every color setting possible but you will be tweaking until the end of time just to get the colors to look as good as some LG and Sony sets out of the box. I found oplompolom's color settings to be very good. Skin tones were very natural and grass was the right shade of green. However the Sharp does tinge dark grays very blue. The problem is worse than the Sony edge lit sets but not as bad as the Samsung 6000. Perhaps this can be remedied with further tweaking but I spent hours in the advanced settings trying to get rid of it with no success.

Viewing angles on the Sharp are better than the Samsung, LG, and Sony sets. Yellow color shift was far less noticeable but blue actually shifted more than the other brands. Yellow color shift is far more noticeable however due to flesh tones. I would give the Sharp about a 10% advantage in viewing angle. Probably the best out of any edge lit set but still far below the Samsung 630/650 CCFL sets.

Sound
The speakers are pretty good for a thin TV and the inclusion of a small subwoofer does help. However the TV does not accept a Dolby Digital 5.1 signal over HDMI. I ran into a lot of issues with the TV not accepting surround input from my cable box and receiver passthrough. This was a dealbreaker for me. When I set my cable box to output a surround sound signal the TV gave me an error message and asked me to set the source to PCM. I don't have that option with the box so I had to set it to stereo which also prevents my receiver from using surround sound as well. My PS3 confirmed that 2 channel audio is the only output the TV will recognize.

Operation
I found the menu system of the TV to be overly complicated and poorly designed. I did appreciate the ability to adjust picture settings full screen but the back and forth navigation was very cumbersome. There was also a lot of lag in system command input, sometimes hanging for a few seconds. The command a person would probably use the most is very poorly implemented, input selection. The button on the remote is a tiny dot next to the channel rocker and it brings up a side menu that covers 1/4 of the screen. The active inputs are listed along with the inactive ones in a very unattractive menu.

Why rarely used menu items such as power saving and network setup are given the same interface level as input selection and display settings is a question I would like to ask the UI designers.

Remote
The remote may be better than previous Sharp remotes from what I read in reviews but the only word I can use to describe it is CHEAP. It is made out of flimsy plastic and the buttons are unresponsive and rubbery. The command buttons you will use most are tiny and poorly placed. Sharp needs to hire a good interface designer quick.

Overall
At the original price I would not recommend a Sharp 810/820 series but with the heavy discounts now it is a compelling set. It will outperform lower tier sets but will not be as good as sets you can buy for a little bit more. The black levels are a bit disappointing and the black crush is a problem. Backlight uniformity is top notch though.

If uniformity and viewing angles are your most important things and you don't mind a lot of tweaking to get the colors right than the Sharp is a good TV for you. If you want something you take out of the box, set up, and never fiddle with again then you will want to look elsewhere.

did the settings as you suggested, and the blues are still too high. I'm also still getting a VERY high shadowy blue/red haze in certain scenes while watching regular HD tv. Can somebody make a suggestion for watching HD tv stations, and having the TV set in one area (Auto, standard, PC, Game, Movie, User#, or Dynamic regular or fixed)?
Honestly, I just want to turn on my TV, and watch TV, without having to change over every setting to do so.
Anybody?

I may have missed it but I didn't see any replies to this. Has anyone else had this issue? I exchanged two 810s due to clouding and bad pixels. The third one is good with neither of those issues. However my buttons are bad also. The power button works once in a great while but the rest are pretty much non functional.

I really don't want to play the lottery on a fourth set so I called Sharp today. I received prompt service with them arranging to have someone out next Tuesday. I'm guessing there is some sort of circuit board/sensor that needs to be replaced. It seems like it should be a simple repair but I'm wondering if I need to be concerned with removing the back panel already? Is there any risk of this causing flashlighting or clouding after putting it back together?

I returned my second 40 inch 810 early this week. I had black bars/edges on both sets, on the left right and top of the tv. These black bars would become thicker and go blurry when content was playing. I am done with Sharp and will look elsewhere for my next set. I give Sharp customer service huge respect though because they respond fast and take care of you as long as you are persistent. I will be looking to LG's new sets though for 2011 instead.

I suppose many are thinking why worry about the buttons, everyone uses the remote. However, I wanted a TV with functioning and accessible buttons for the few times I don't want to fire up the whole system. (E.G. for turning the TV on to start DVR playback and record to DVD before going to work. In this case I just need to power it on for a minute and then turn it back off. No need to fire up the whole system with the Harmony activity button.) Plus I guess it's the principle of the matter. Same as say the volume button on a new car radio. If the button on the head unit didn't work but the steering wheel volume control did I'd want if fixed, even though I'd likely always use the steering wheel control.

Would you be concerned about a repair of this nature or should I gamble and try and exchange it again? Just hoping for a few opinions from all you experts on here as the repair tech is coming on Tuesday. The guy on the phone sounded pretty knowledgeable but if the consensus is that I should do another exchange, I'd like to do it this weekend seeing is I'll have to drive across town to do so. I've already depleted the inventory of the BB stores closest to me. Thanks all.

Anyone know why my 820 doesn't have PC mode.

Wrong board lol.

Finally got my replacement 52LE810 from Sharp. Originally made a stink because of a bright blue dead pixel in the middle/left third area, but the TV had AWFUL backlight uniformity issues as everyone seems to have. Loosening back panel screws helped a little, but not really. It was awful but I was more concerned about the pixel.


Replacement arrives, I turn it on and have no dead pixels, and a COMPLETELY EVEN backlight. The lower edges are a little brighter than the rest(and I haven't touched the backpanel screws yet) but it's SO even. smooth and perfect, I'm now fully in love with this set.


Also, someone PMed me the service menu code...can I share it?!

I recently purchased a LC-52LE810UN and we are completely blown away by the overall picture quality. I am having a devil of a time getting my AT&T U-verse remote to recognize the tv. I have tried all listed manufacturer codes for Sharp SD & HD units. I saw that a couple of months ago someone was having the same issues, I was hopeful that someone might have found a fix. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

are the 810un panels IPS ???

thanks

I've finally had it with the clouding and contacted Sharp for warranty service. After swapping emails and photos I've been offered a replacement 810 or the option of switching to an 820.

Outside of the glass screen, is there a difference? Would this be considered an upgrade?

Am I better off one way or the other?

No, Sharps produce their own panels and they are U2VA panel which are amoung to good panels out there with nice view angle and brighter picture amoungs other things. Sharps also produce some of the lowest input lag TV out there so for video games, it's another advantage.