AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Sharp Aquos/Quattron LC-XXLE810UN/LC-XXLE820UN Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Sharp Aquos/Quattron LC-XXLE810UN/LC-XXLE820UN Owners Thread - Page 56

post #1651 of 2814
12/8/10 at 9:20am
Thread Starter 
OK, I can confirm that the service code works, or some variation of it

The reason I say this is because it took me about 50 tries, and by this time I finally got in, it has to be done on the set itself and what makes this incrediblity difficult are the dumb touch sensitive buttons

But, i think this is how it goes, put tv on TV input, unplug 1 min, plug back in, press and hold vol -, meni, and power when turning on (note Im not sure if you have to hold the power button or you can release it, these dumb buttons almost made this impossible to figure out) the tv whille come up with a K and model number on it, you then press and hold vol- and channel - at same time, this goes into service menu

To exit just turn off/press power

Whats in the service menu? well no video selection for USB that I saw/hoped for
But there are lots of adjustments for picture and brightness of items, such as the from LED, the volume and channel indicaters, test patterns, lots of stuff I have no clue what it is, lots of info on the ROMs and BOOT stuff, ect ect ect but no option to turn on the video playback from USB that I saw

Bottom line, if youre trying to do this and dont get it on the first time, keep trying, these buttons almost make it impossible but give alittle effort and youll eventually get it, why they didnt use the remote is beyond me

Edit:
Yes a firmware upgrade today

This Firmware Update improves performance of Netflix, AQUOS Net and AQUOS Advantage features.
This update includes all previous fixes and improvements.
Version: U1011171
Date: 12/08/2010
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #1652 of 2814
12/8/10 at 9:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by technofan1 View Post

Firmware updates,

I think in the USA you guys do month/day/year?.... so this could well be today's latest firmware.... If I am wrong then I'm sorry for posting old news.

Pete

Just got it on mine. Not sure yet what changes have been made.
Reply
Reply
post #1653 of 2814
12/8/10 at 2:13pm
Just got a firmware update pushed out to the TV today. No info on the sharp site what it changes? Any one have an idea?

Edit: saw the info in movieguys post above

This Firmware Update improves performance of Netflix, AQUOS Net and AQUOS Advantage features.
This update includes all previous fixes and improvements.
Version: U1011171
Date: 12/08/2010

I didn't get a chance to check any of that stuff out as I was on my lunch break, but I'll be interested to see if Netflix works any better now. I tend to use it via my PS3 because the streaming looks much better on there.
Reply
Reply
post #1654 of 2814
12/8/10 at 6:01pm
Loaded the firmware update today, do updates affect previous calibrations? Thought that it might so I reset pc mode to the factory setting and then reloaded oplompolom's settings and will try a b-ray of Avatar tonight and see...
Reply
Reply
post #1655 of 2814
12/9/10 at 5:28am
I never loaded the last update that was available when I purchased TV a couple of months ago. Do we know what that one included?
Reply
Reply
post #1656 of 2814
12/9/10 at 4:33pm
[deleted]
Reply
Reply
post #1657 of 2814
12/10/10 at 3:46pm
Well, the guy finally came to fix it, a day and a half after Sharp said they'd be there. He put in a new main board and power supply and it turned on for a split second and died again. So it is apparently the backlight has shorted out and is blowing up everything in the TV.

This is where Sharp has been less than stellar. Now, within about three days they'll confirm that they want to replace the TV and within 7-10 business days, we'll have a new one delivered after that decision. Alternatively, we can get approved for a refund from Best Buy (that takes about three business days) and we can just take the POS back to them and buy something else.

Is this what you guys have experienced? I've read all these reviews of clouded TVs where folks just get a new one and no one has mentioned 7-10 business days for the trucking company to get it there. I'm leaning toward selling the thing back to Sharp and moving on down the road. Any thoughts? Advice? Is the guy handling my case just an idiot? Or am I just a picky jerk that expects better service after dropping a couple of kilodollars on a TV?
Reply
Reply
post #1658 of 2814
12/10/10 at 4:04pm
jay_dd, I would probably get a refund a go for one of a newer backlit-LED models from other manufacturers or give plasma a try... Chances of getting a perfectly uniform quattron seem to be not very high.

I was wondering - has anyone tried to calibrate this set using brighness level that would reproduce ALL shades of black? All the calibrations I could find simply kill most of the very deep black details and the only solution I could find is to boost brightness to +14 or even better +17, and then decrease contrast to +28. This blows highlights off by a little bit, and probably makes default calibration even worse, but I can't see the other way around. Just pause at a very dark scene, try these settings and resume playback. You may not want to revert it back after what you will see
Reply
Reply
post #1659 of 2814
12/10/10 at 4:37pm
I would just get it replaced. They are not all that bad. For example I must have gotten lucky because I have a flawless pannel. The only thing I noticed is that the 4 corners are a little brighter if you stare at it from an angle. But from what I understand this is normal for edge lit led pannels.
Reply
Reply
post #1660 of 2814
12/11/10 at 8:41am
Jay, do what I did, and when you contact them for a replacement, request a 920 instead of another 800 series. I got approved immediately and had my 920 in about a week.

Fantastic set
Reply
Reply
post #1661 of 2814
12/11/10 at 12:17pm
[deleted]
Reply
Reply
post #1662 of 2814
12/11/10 at 8:19pm
I hooked up my 820, and plugged in the HDMI cable from my DirecTV. All it is showing is a blank screen....am I missing something?

Reply
Reply
post #1663 of 2814
12/12/10 at 2:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TungstenGT
I hooked up my 820, and plugged in the HDMI cable from my DirecTV. All it is showing is a blank screen....am I missing something?
Was the tv on when you plugged in the hdmi cable? If so you may need to turn off both devices and power on again. Or try a different hdmi cable.
Reply
Reply
post #1664 of 2814
12/12/10 at 3:57am
I presume you made the correct input selection on the TV? If so, you might want to try another type of connection (I don't know if DirectTV boxes use component, composite, etc.) to see if your HDMI input on the TV is working.
Reply
Reply
post #1665 of 2814
12/12/10 at 9:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by davegow View Post

I presume you made the correct input selection on the TV? If so, you might want to try another type of connection (I don't know if DirectTV boxes use component, composite, etc.) to see if your HDMI input on the TV is working.

I did select the right input on the TV. The DirecTV box has an HDMI out that I connected the HDMI cable to. I will try another component cable, I guess to see if that's it.

Anyone else have this problem?

Reply
Reply
post #1666 of 2814
12/12/10 at 11:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TungstenGT View Post

I hooked up my 820, and plugged in the HDMI cable from my DirecTV. All it is showing is a blank screen....am I missing something?


I had a similar problem with Sony Blu Ray player. You may try the following:
1. Use a different HDMI input on the TV.
2. Disconnect the power to the TV and all devices connected to it. Wait for about a minute. Try again. This worked in my case.

Good luck.
Reply
Reply
post #1667 of 2814
12/12/10 at 12:39pm
[deleted]
Reply
Reply
post #1668 of 2814
12/12/10 at 2:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpowner View Post
I had a similar problem with Sony Blu Ray player. You may try the following:
1. Use a different HDMI input on the TV.
2. Disconnect the power to the TV and all devices connected to it. Wait for about a minute. Try again. This worked in my case.

Good luck.
I will try that as soon as I can. I did try disconnecting the HDMI from the DirecTV box and connected it via the component cables, (Red, Blue, Green), and it works, so I will assume the HDMI output on the DirecTV box must not work. Thanks to those who helped this AV newbie out!
Reply
Reply
post #1669 of 2814
12/12/10 at 6:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_dd View Post

Well, the guy finally came to fix it, a day and a half after Sharp said they'd be there. He put in a new main board and power supply and it turned on for a split second and died again. So it is apparently the backlight has shorted out and is blowing up everything in the TV.


This is exactly how my 88UN died....3 times! 1st time, Sharp shiped 1 board for the TV guy to install. They shipped it overnight and the TV guy was here the next day. It lasted 12 hours. Then they shipped the TV guy all 3 boards in the set to be replaced ( took them a couple days that time ). That lasted a week. When it died the 3rd time, they offered to send me a new set and I told them I didnt want to chance another 88UN. So they sent me this 810. It's a little un-nerving to hear someone with an 810 having the same problem the 88UN had.

Yes, took about a week for the new set to get here.

I feel I was "upgraded", due to I only paid $1600 for the 88UN. Sharp stated the old warranty followed this TV, I didnt get 15 new months. The old set was only a few months old, so I figure I got 1 year on this one.
Reply
Reply
post #1670 of 2814
12/12/10 at 6:20pm
i was set to buy a LC46LE810UN but was advised against it in favor of the Samsung UN46C6300, mostly because they have roughly the same picture quality and the Samsung has more features (DLNA, divx and mkv playback thru usb). i also like the frame of the samsung more than the sharp, and the OSD menu on the samsung is supposedly easier to navigate. i know clouding is an issue with both tvs. has anyone compared the two tvs comment on which is the better choice?
Reply
Reply
post #1671 of 2814
12/12/10 at 6:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chromawash View Post

The settings I posted yesterday for Quattron's GAME and STANDARD modes were wrong. STANDARD mode mixes reds and yellows, and isn't worthwhile. I corrected the GAME settings to improve red-oranges and blues, each about 50% more accurate than in my original settings. A tradeoff is slightly less definition in highly saturated reds. Another tradeoff is certain green-yellows are slightly darker than my original settings. The problem is that Sharp should have provided separate Saturation and Value controls for yellow in greens than for yellow in reds. Still, these settings practically eliminate all noticeable color inaccuracies, giving excellent picture quality and a decent viewing angle.

Power Control
Power Saving> Off or Standard

Picture Settings
AV MODE> GAME (STANDARD [reds too mixed with yellows], USER [too bright], and PC modes are incompatible with these settings, other modes may be)
Reset> Yes (you must select this prior to the others in this menu)
OPC> Off
Backlight> -10 to -6 (your choice)
Contrast> +29
Brightness> -3 (better viewing angle) or -2 (better shadow detail)
Color> +4
Tint> 0
Sharpness> +2 (improves picture, especially standard broadcasts)

Advanced Settings
CMS-Hue
R> 0
Y> 0
G> +1
C> +15
B> -12
M> +15

CMS-Saturation
R> +26
Y> -26
G> -7
C> +21
B> -17
M> 0

CMS-Value
R> +8
Y> +5
G> +26
C> +5
B> +14
M> +22

Color Temp.
Color Temp.> Middle (you must select this prior to the others in this menu)
R> 0
G> 0
B> 0
R> +1
G> 0
B> 0

Active Contrast> Off
Gamma Adjustment> 0
Digital Noise Reduction> Off

Double-check for exact settings. With these settings:

1) certain red-oranges are slightly undersaturated, but are uncommon, and a few others are somewhat undersaturated, but are scarce
2) certain deep, dark green-yellows are slightly darker, but are uncommon
3) certain blues are a tiny bit deeper, but are scarce
4) certain greens, magentas, and possibly other colors are slightly to moderately undersatured, but are very scarce
5) slight to moderate loss of some definition in areas of highly saturated color, but these are uncommon
6) viewing angle is fair to good, depending on scene (other brands may have better viewing angle, but Quattron's picture seems more crisp and colorful)
7) no banding (gradation lines) is added.

I found these settings by changing settings on model LC-40LE810UN while comparing it with a standard definition CRT TV made by JVC. RYGB in theory should have the potential of getting closer to 100% color accuracy than RGB, but as sold, Quattron has unexpectedly inaccurate colors (although I can't say as to its expanded x.v.Color capability, a standard also supported by Sony and JVC). The built-in firmware is likely to blame, which Sharp can change either by Internet or USB device, so possibly they will offer a 100% accurate fix.

Quattron adds no weird, deformed processing artifacts, like a woman's hair I saw get scrambled on a new LG at the store. No problems of reflections or ambient light occur unless a reflected image of a bare light bulb, shiny glint, etc. is actually visible on the screen, resulting in a prominent, cross-shaped flare.

The screen menus are somewhat tedious, and too slow to use much if closed captioning is on. The menu symbols of + and - are a bit small.

In Film Mode, the High setting adds videotape-like realism to many films and filmed TV shows (especially 30 fps) made from about the 1920s to 1960s, but adds mostly jerkiness and even frame jumps to later filmed material, and unnatural smoothness to video camera (CCD) material. Film Mode should be viewed in USER mode with my settings for GAME mode, and Backlight set to -10.

The speakers are in back near the bottom, maybe in an attempt to emulate a little-used method of sound enhancement that adds back speakers to front ones. The lack of front speakers means some lack of sound clarity, but analog and digtial audio outputs are included.

These are great settings. Good work.

Do you have settings for user mode?
Reply
Reply
post #1672 of 2814
12/13/10 at 12:46am
what's the difference between the 60" 810UN vs. 820UN?

http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/Home...40LE810UN.aspx

http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/Home...40LE820UN.aspx

the spec. looks the same except the name of the panel:

the 810 is X-Gen LCD Panel

the 820 is Full HD 1080p X-Gen LCD Panel

but the 810 also says it's 1080p, so I'm missing something here, can any1 help?
Reply
Reply
post #1673 of 2814
12/13/10 at 2:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by happy hopping View Post

what's the difference between the 60" 810UN vs. 820UN?

http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/Home...40LE810UN.aspx

http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/Home...40LE820UN.aspx

the spec. looks the same except the name of the panel:

the 810 is X-Gen LCD Panel

the 820 is Full HD 1080p X-Gen LCD Panel

but the 810 also says it's 1080p, so I'm missing something here, can any1 help?

The 820 has a glass screen and higher contrast ratio.
Reply
Reply
post #1674 of 2814
12/13/10 at 7:32am
I just picked the 60" 820 up yesterday. I went into it narrowed down the 60" Sharp 810 and the 60" Samsung 6300. The store didn't have the 60" Samsung on display, so I had to compare the 55" 6300, and while the uniformity wasn't bad, the off-axis shift was pronounced (a C panel, I guess). The 810 didn't fade too much off-axis, the black levels seemed about the same, though it is hard to tell because the Samsung varied the backlight constantly, and I could not figure out how to turn that off! I think there really is something to the whole Quattron thing. It makes sense in theory: the eye is most sensitive to hue in the yellow-green range, and indeed the color on the 810 looks better to me, like there is more range in the part of the spectrum.
After talking to a salescritter for a bit, he tried to upsell me on the 820. I didn't know they had the 820 because it was down at the other end of the section... right in the middle of the plasmas. I think that was intentional: Given the glass front and the setup in the store, you'd be hard-pressed to tell it wasn't a plasma. Wally the salesweasel was adamant the 820 has better video processing and he might be right. The 820 does have a noticeably better picture than that 810. Either way, considering both sets were on sale well below the other 60" models, and the price difference between the 810 and the 820 was less than 10%, It was a no-brainer. I pulled the trigger on the 820.

I haven't had time to do much more than mount it on a new stand, hook all my gear back up, and program the Harmony. As far as tweaking, I wasn't happy with any of the preset AV modes, so I did what I usually do when setting up a new TV: Just center all the "knobs"... and it looks great.

AV Mode: USER
Backlight: Set based on ambient light, or STD if you're using Power Savings
All basic/advanced sliders dead center (Contrast 20, 0 for everything else)
Color Temp: Low
120hz: OFF! ...that effect almost makes me dizzy.
Film Mode: OFF for now, have to experiment.
Power Savings (nice we can change this!):
- Advanced if you want OPC sensor + scene backlight adjustment
- Standard if you just want the backlight to change with the average scene brightness
- Off for fixed backlight
OPC Max: +16, but it never goes that high except in a sunlit room
OPC Min: -16, and adjust in a dark room to your preference of black level vs. brighness

Am I correct in thinking the AV mode does something more than just preset the sliders, especially when it comes to color management? I think the sliders adjust +/- from some hard-coded AV-mode profile. If you select Movie, for example, and use the same slider settings as you set in User, the result is NOT the same.
Reply
Reply
post #1675 of 2814
12/13/10 at 12:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chdwil View Post

The 820 has a glass screen and higher contrast ratio.

Actually the displays are basically identical. The 820 and 810 are the same. The added contrast ratio comes from the use of reflective glass material.

I purchased the 820, somewhat regrettably:

Advantages to 810:
- Matted display doesn't reflect light; if you use this in a room with lights or windows, it's better

Advantages to 820:
-All glass from panel looks sharp (there's no bezel; it looks like a Macbook Pro display basically).
-Shiny glass provides slightly higher CR and brighter picture, but it reflects everything.

My room doesn't have too many lighting issues, but I do miss my previous Samsung's matted finish. I guess if I had to do it over again, I'd save the money and get the 810 since I prefer the matted screen.
Reply
Reply
post #1676 of 2814
12/13/10 at 12:51pm
I'm looking in buying either the 820 or the 920 in 4 months from now. I do got oné question, though. The 40' LE820 for me in Holland is around the price of 1000 euro's, the 40' LE920 is 1500 euro's. Do you guys think the 920 will lower in price the upcoming 4 months? Mainly because I don't want to spend 1500 for a new TV. I did that twice in the past 4 years.

If not, I'll buy the 820. Oh, by the way. What are the differences between these two, other then the fact that the 920 has 240Hz in comparison with the 100Hz in the 820.
Reply
Reply
post #1677 of 2814
12/13/10 at 2:24pm
Hi all. I've had this set for a couple of weeks now. (The 810 46") but I have a couple of issues. I hear people mentioning good viewing angles but that has no been my experience. Viewing from the sides seems cloudy and washed out. Anyone else experience this this. Could I have a bum set? The other thing is I used the PC mode settings that were posted it did improve the colors but its still seems off a bit. It looks a bit dark at times and dark or night scenes seems to havea bit too much of a grayish blue hue to them. Any thoughts on this. I only have a week left if I decide to return it. I like the set but am pu off by some these things. Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #1678 of 2814
12/13/10 at 2:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thwiipp View Post

... I hear people mentioning good viewing angles but that has no been my experience. Viewing from the sides seems cloudy and washed out. ... I used the PC mode settings that were posted it did improve the colors but its still seems off a bit. It looks a bit dark at times and dark or night scenes seems to havea bit too much of a grayish blue hue to them. ...

Without seeing your set in person it's hard to evaluate your complaints. All LCDs lose image when viewed at an angle. This isn't something that would occur only on an individual set; it's engineered into the design. Go to any store and check out the various sets on display. I haven't heard that the Sharp Quattrons are especially bad in that regard. Plasmas are generally better than LCDs for side viewing.

As to the settings, be aware that everyone's TV, room conditions and tastes differ, so the settings that are ideal for others may not be best for you. You need to try adjustments to see what looks best.
Reply
Reply
post #1679 of 2814
12/13/10 at 8:00pm
Hi all,

I got the 40LE810UN about a couple of weeks back and I observed some grey streaks at the top of the screen, especially when watching images with a lighter background - like a grey or pale blue image comes up on the screen. I returned the TV today and exchanged it for another one but I see those streaks in the new TV as well. Has anyone else observed this ?
Reply
Reply
post #1680 of 2814
12/13/10 at 10:19pm
thanks guys for the reply. Locally, these 3 60" LED LCD has around the same price:

sharp 810UN

sony KDL60EX700

Samsung UN60C6300

Off hand, I would lead towards the sharp because:

Sharp has a 4 color panel

and is it true that the panel is made in Japan eventhough the whole LCD LCD is made in china

and so, who would you go with?
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: LCD Flat Panel Displays

AVS Top Picks

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Sharp Aquos/Quattron LC-XXLE810UN/LC-XXLE820UN Owners Thread