--------------------------------- PART 1 ----------------------------------
Did your ONKYO work great for a year or more and then start exhibiting difficulty locking or remaining locked on your HDMI stream ? Do you need to warm it up like a 1957 television and it keeps getting longer ? Some of you instead lose component video sources or On Screen Display from its HDMI out.
Well my unit finally became unbearable and after a few hours of time well wasted on the internet, the uncertain deed was attempted. This post is an effort to enlighten those who may be interested too. I figured that eventually as these AVRs age beyond warranty, some of you may want to also take matters into your own hands.
This guide is based on my own '576, but should benefit other models in the design family with HDMI related failures provided that you extrapolate the concepts to fit your application.
A must read, especially for 606 owners, later in this thread (circa 3 months later); http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post18993413 It takes some of the guesswork out of what I didn't know when this thread was started (TYVM mycotopian !)
Now for your amusement, some visual aids.....
_____________WARRANTY VOID PAST THIS POINT______________
*Besides the obvious required shell removal, the HDMI board is secured by a screw on each port and a plastic riser
*Power ribbon release requires you to press down on the plug's top surface ( See below pic; push before and until ribbon has been easily liberated or you may damage it like others will sadly report )
*Higher end models will have other interconnects to remove thanks to the A/D+upscaler+OSD
*Daughterboard will detach from the host at the three sockets. Something like a large flat blade screwdriver being twisted (wrap with tape to avoid gouging the vertical board) can be used as a wedge between the two boards in conjunction with pulling. There is room near the front-most socket. Just be sure that you have missed no HDMI port screws first )
Attachment 174313
*We are ,at a minimum, interested in removing/replacing all caps marked '100'(uF)
*It's easiest to just break the leads using a 1/16 turn, twisting motion
Attachment 174314
*Just repeat a back and forth motion until it eventually lets go (a dozen or more 'twists')
*It's important to not overtorque the traces as complications result (don't make me post video
)
Attachment 174315
*Comparitive size of the offenders highlights the dexterity involved
*My board only had six (top+bottom) but higher end versions are fully populated and seem to have eight or ten
Attachment 174316
*I suggest using non-SMD replacements as they allow for improved soldering access
*Be sure to get polarized, 'radial', 100uF/10V (6.3 minimum)/105`C rated caps (I see 85`C versions on the board underneath
) <-('S3K' edit within)
-- for the purests out there, this is close to OEM; http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...t%252bxg%3d%3d -- <-(added thanks to 'NoAVsense')
*Match the new cap's negative (shorter lead or ' - ' marking) to the square side of the silkscreened outline on the board (where the black marked side of the old cap was) ; or refer to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...6&postcount=15 and note that, for the most part, the points of the red arrows are touching the negative terminal. <-(added thanks to 'navtek'/'chupinsky27')
*The old cap's terminal stubs preferably should be desoldered otherwise watch out for bridges (shorts) should one wander
*My iron's tip is fatter than I would have preferred
*minimize heating time to prevent trace or cap damage
Attachment 174317
It would be ideal to replace all the caps on this board ( or AVR for that matter ) We are hoping to narrow that down considerably by doing some analysis coupled with good old trial-and-error.
Your situation may be less advanced ; same problem but less symptomatic. Your troubles could be multiple ; beyond the scope of this guide.( ie EEPROM ) Also, a higher valued model further justifies the cost of a professional repair. Early adopters who report positive results could help you decide.
[ UPDATE;December 2011: Common theme among positive feedback is that restoring just the HDMI switch is easier than achieving OSD and Upconversion. Brute force replacement seems to be more effective than keeping the parts count low... but YMMV. To those who seemed to have or will join AVSforum just to express gratitude, I say the effort is greatly received! ]
Use common (?) sense with patience and you'll probably have a much more cooperative piece of equipment once it's put back together...what do you mean you can't remember how it goes together? (lol) Good Luck !
[ to be continued...addressing the root cause ]
Did your ONKYO work great for a year or more and then start exhibiting difficulty locking or remaining locked on your HDMI stream ? Do you need to warm it up like a 1957 television and it keeps getting longer ? Some of you instead lose component video sources or On Screen Display from its HDMI out.
Well my unit finally became unbearable and after a few hours of time well wasted on the internet, the uncertain deed was attempted. This post is an effort to enlighten those who may be interested too. I figured that eventually as these AVRs age beyond warranty, some of you may want to also take matters into your own hands.
This guide is based on my own '576, but should benefit other models in the design family with HDMI related failures provided that you extrapolate the concepts to fit your application.
A must read, especially for 606 owners, later in this thread (circa 3 months later); http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post18993413 It takes some of the guesswork out of what I didn't know when this thread was started (TYVM mycotopian !)
Now for your amusement, some visual aids.....
_____________WARRANTY VOID PAST THIS POINT______________
*Besides the obvious required shell removal, the HDMI board is secured by a screw on each port and a plastic riser
*Power ribbon release requires you to press down on the plug's top surface ( See below pic; push before and until ribbon has been easily liberated or you may damage it like others will sadly report )
*Higher end models will have other interconnects to remove thanks to the A/D+upscaler+OSD
*Daughterboard will detach from the host at the three sockets. Something like a large flat blade screwdriver being twisted (wrap with tape to avoid gouging the vertical board) can be used as a wedge between the two boards in conjunction with pulling. There is room near the front-most socket. Just be sure that you have missed no HDMI port screws first )
Attachment 174313
*We are ,at a minimum, interested in removing/replacing all caps marked '100'(uF)
*It's easiest to just break the leads using a 1/16 turn, twisting motion
Attachment 174314
*Just repeat a back and forth motion until it eventually lets go (a dozen or more 'twists')
*It's important to not overtorque the traces as complications result (don't make me post video
)Attachment 174315
*Comparitive size of the offenders highlights the dexterity involved
*My board only had six (top+bottom) but higher end versions are fully populated and seem to have eight or ten
Attachment 174316
*I suggest using non-SMD replacements as they allow for improved soldering access
*Be sure to get polarized, 'radial', 100uF/10V (6.3 minimum)/105`C rated caps (I see 85`C versions on the board underneath
) <-('S3K' edit within)-- for the purests out there, this is close to OEM; http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...t%252bxg%3d%3d -- <-(added thanks to 'NoAVsense')
*Match the new cap's negative (shorter lead or ' - ' marking) to the square side of the silkscreened outline on the board (where the black marked side of the old cap was) ; or refer to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...6&postcount=15 and note that, for the most part, the points of the red arrows are touching the negative terminal. <-(added thanks to 'navtek'/'chupinsky27')
*The old cap's terminal stubs preferably should be desoldered otherwise watch out for bridges (shorts) should one wander
*My iron's tip is fatter than I would have preferred
*minimize heating time to prevent trace or cap damage
Attachment 174317
It would be ideal to replace all the caps on this board ( or AVR for that matter
) We are hoping to narrow that down considerably by doing some analysis coupled with good old trial-and-error.Your situation may be less advanced ; same problem but less symptomatic. Your troubles could be multiple ; beyond the scope of this guide.( ie EEPROM ) Also, a higher valued model further justifies the cost of a professional repair. Early adopters who report positive results could help you decide.
[ UPDATE;December 2011: Common theme among positive feedback is that restoring just the HDMI switch is easier than achieving OSD and Upconversion. Brute force replacement seems to be more effective than keeping the parts count low... but YMMV. To those who seemed to have or will join AVSforum just to express gratitude, I say the effort is greatly received! ]
Use common (?) sense with patience and you'll probably have a much more cooperative piece of equipment once it's put back together...what do you mean you can't remember how it goes together? (lol) Good Luck !
[ to be continued...addressing the root cause ]
running @1080P , non-HDCP, various audio formats*
