How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 6

Did not work - replaced 8 100uf 10v caps (Mouser / DigiKey Ref: 565-3047-ND)

C8002, C8607, C8602*, C8162, C8096 *, C278, C8609* & 1 more frontside cap (* = referred to in the Onkyo bulletin)

Ordered ceramic 1uf 50v caps (DigiKey Ref: 445-2865-ND), gonna try adding them to the regulators later next week.

Kris

Happy to report that the project was a success. Immediate handshake on power-up, the OSD also displays via HDMI consistently when it should.

Now the next project will be the active cooling ...

The issue I'm having with my 606 is that HDMI devices "cut out" from time to time. I actually sent it out under warranty, they said they replaced the HDMI board, but I hadn't hooked it back up for several months since I was remodeling my basement where it was going.

Anyhow, I fired it back up last week and I'm having the exact same issues. The HDMI cuts out for a few seconds and reconnects. Seems to be losing handshake. I don't seem to be having any problems with switching inputs or requiring any "warm up" time for anything.

Has anyone had this same issue and done the cap replacement? Any success?

Thanks to all who have contributed!

I also have the issue that nothing now connects except my Direct TV receiver to the Sat/Cab input. If i try connecting anything else to that, no go. only the Direct TV. I called Onkyo and just like everyone else, no go without receipt. Unfortunately I have misplaced my receipt in my recent move.

I will probably be flamed for this but is there any way to past a receipt that is under warranty from an authorized dealer? I dont have the money to shell out to fix or replace this guy.

If nothing else, will try the capacitor fix. But can someone post the exact parts needed for the replacemnet and where you purchaced them. Can I get them at Frys electronics maybe?

Thanks.

Call dealer where you bought receiver from. They may be able to send you a copy of invoice. Retailers usually keep records in their computer system for more than one year.

Circuit City is out of business. You think they would still have the records? I am trying to get the date from the credit card I used by requesting the statements from the month I bought it. Hopefully that will work. It will be avail online tomorrow, but it might be a month or two out of warranty.

Get them online at DigiKey:

Capacitor	Part No.
1uf 50v	445-2865-ND
100uf 10v	565-3047-ND

I'm sorry but maybe I missed it, but where are the 1uf 50v go? I know about the 100uf 10v. They are the 5 capacitors right? 4 on top and one on the bottom?

You may also need to add 4 x 1uf caps across the regulators (3 on bottom, 1 on top)

Replacing just the 100uf did not work for me (waiting for my 1uf caps to arrive)

Images from GhettoSupersta @ HiDefForum

SUCCESS!! YAY!!

HDMI handshaking works perfectly on my HT-R960, no more waiting for the receiver to warm up (mine was totally dead btw)

OSD also works now. Switching works great - LG BD390 BD Player, Apple TV 2G, ASRock ION330 HTPC

Here is a stupid mistake I made: The initial 100uf 4 cap replacement may have fixed my issues since I did not realize the HDMI-out cable into the TV was loose. I guess you live and learn

This what I ended up doing after the initial 4 cap replacement didn't seem to work:

- Replaced all 100uf caps (10 caps: 8 on the back, 2 on the front)
- Added 5 x 1uf 50v caps across the regulators (4 on the back, 1 on the front)
- Replaced 1 x 220uf 16v (back, far left)

Thanks a lot CZ, you saved me atleast $1200 I almost ordered the 3311CI

Kris

Did not stop there, did a cooling fan mod as well using a Radio Shack $9.99 Thermaltake fan.

The fan comes with nuts & bolts for mounting and is a little noisy if you run it at the rated 12v. Silent under-volted to 5v [Clip the wires on the Molex connector from 12v leads (Yellow/Black) and re-connect to the 5v (Red/Black) leads]

Attached the Molex to a Power Supply that I had from an old USB hard drive adapter.

It is now less noisy than other gear in the cabinet and the HT-R960 is warm to the touch after 13 hours of 'stress testing': Ok, I was mostly lying around watching TV

- Kris

Did you find that the capacitor mod made the unit run cooler ? I was understanding that the voltage regulators were producing excess heat due to the failing capacitors and was curious if the mod made the unit run cooler, closer to whatever may be "in spec" for the unit.

BTW, the fan is made to draw air out, correct ?

No, I don't think adding the caps to the regulators made the unit run any cooler. That was one of the reasons why I made the fan mod.

The fan is facing up, set to draw the air out (as opposed to blowing air in)

The cabinet has some head room now thanks in part to unstacking the BD player that was on top of it. Stacking is not recommended at all for these Onkyo receivers.

Kris

I'm guessing my 606 is about to kick the bucket. My only working/ Tolerable hdmi input is DVD. The other just have LINES all over the picture. Anybody else experience this before? Video posted below, look at 1:50

http://www.youtube.com/user/MarkAELS.../0/qK5_y-AJ9HY

anyone in the NY area willing to do this repair for me? I'll pay! PM me!

Looks interesting, but how do you turn it on? Does it stay on all the time? Is it heat controlled? I don't want the ting on all the time but I need something that can be powered on and off with the receiver (since it doesn't have a switched 110v outlet, it will need it's own on/off control, preferably not manual).

Guys, What an amazing thread.. I am so happy I found it...I have an Onkyo 606 and A DirecTV Box, PS3 and Wii hooked up. I can get the cable working after about 5 minutes of warming up. The PS3 and Wii were taking upwards of 4 hours to work but that has changed. They do not work at all while connected via HDMI to the receiver..

I am as mechanicly inclined as my 5 year old son unfortunately and need a little help.. I plan on ordering all the parts I need online.
Would someone be so kind to tell me the best possible parts to buy? How many of what parts to buy and maybe where to buy them?
I do not plan on using a fan or anything so I know there is more than the capacitors to replace..

My cousin who is handy with a soldering iron is gonna help me out..

Again, thanks so much for this thread.. I cannot wait to dig in..

I wouldn't. Call Onkyo first. Mine was 2 months out of warranty and when I called they asked for an email requesting warranty repair but didn't even require me to describe the symptoms...you think maybe they knew already? All it cost was $20 shipping to Denver and a month of waiting. Unless you're skilled at this, I wouldn't try it.

Found my credit card receipt from Circuit City and saw it was 2 months out of warranty. I called Onkyo and described the problem. First CSR, no help, it was out of warranty. Then asked him why they will not help me with a known common issue. He transferred me to someone who asked me to fax copy of statement and describe symptoms. After multiple faxes, emails and calls, all with no response, I got an email that they will warranty the problem this one time. All I have to do is take it to a shop, which lucky for me is 5 mins away and that is that.

Hopefully they will not take too long with it.

A little persistence does pay off.

If you are out of warranty and Onkyo cannot help, order these parts online from DigiKey:

Capacitor	Part No.	Qty
1uf 50v	445-2865-ND	4
100uf 10v	565-3047-ND	4

Awesome!! Thanks, no other parts are needed? Did I read correctly that the top needs to stay off the unit?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gj0x5S9ez5U

Found a video for more reference..

Start with replacing the 100uf caps first and test. If it still does not work, add the 1uf caps across the regulators.

The top needs to stay off the unit during the repair of course. Consider adding a cooling fan on top over the vents if everything works.

-Kris

Happy to report another success for a 606. Replaced the 5 capacitors and it works again. On screen display, and all HDMI inputs. Awesome thread thanks for all who have contributed.

I don't know if this is the same problem as everyone else but I cannot get a blu ray player HDMI connection. I can take the HDMI cable from my cable box, connect it to the blu ray player (still connected to Cable/Sat which works on cable) and it gives me "no signal". After a couple of players and different cables, it all comes down to the combination of blu ray and the receiver. All players worked fine connected directly to the TV. All other connections to the receiver via HDMI (computer, cable box) work fine in any HDMI connection.

It was odd tonight, I just picked up a new sony bd player and on the first connection, it flashed on the screen, a few vertical lines showed up and it blanked out. Never to connect again after multiple attempts and multiple startup configurations.

Its taking all I have to not yank the thing out and throw it outside. I'm past frustration. I keep thinking I'll find some perfect combination but it isn't happening. Any reason it would only be the DVD connection??

I had the same thing. My DVD player stopped working no matter what HDMI port/cable combination I used and I thought it was the player and stopped watching DVDs on that unit. Then when I took in the 606 for repairs I got a replacement receiver for myself until I got the 606 back and everything works perfect. I cant explain it but once the 606 has a handshake problem with something, it doesnt work no matter what you do.

What did they do to repair it? Was it the caps?

Thanks for the great info posted on this thread.
My 667 is actually still in warranty (1 year of use), but I live in South America and I guess I´d pay more for shipping than it would cost me to buy a new one, so I´m gonna give this solution a try...I´m pretty confident it will work!.
Just a question about the 100uf capacitors...are they supposed to be Electrolytic or not?. Just wanna make sure I get the right ones.
Thanks.

They have been closed over the holidays and today is the first day they have been open. I will update with whatever info I get when done.

Yes, Aluminum (Tantalum may also work)