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How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 11

post #301 of 648
6/27/11 at 6:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nlpearman View Post

Thanks to CZ and all contributors.

My Onkyo 606 has been working flawlessly except for one issue - 1080i/p output from my PS3 slim. I replaced the four caps mentioned earlier in the thread and now 1080i is working well... but 1080p still has issues.

After a little googling, it appears that the 1080p issue between 606 and the PS3 slim is common.

Did anyone else here have that problem and solve it by replacing additional caps?

Replace every cap. You don't know which ones have failed so it is impossible to determine if it is another issue unless you have eliminated this possibility. I fixed a few caps on my board and it only partially fixed the issue. I replaced them all and it works like day 1 again.

1080p not working but 1080i working sounds exactly like the cap issue. I would be willing to bet these people would have issue with any 1080p source.. They probably don't have any other 1080p devices.
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post #302 of 648
6/27/11 at 7:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nlpearman View Post

Thanks to CZ and all contributors.

My Onkyo 606 has been working flawlessly except for one issue - 1080i/p output from my PS3 slim. I replaced the four caps mentioned earlier in the thread and now 1080i is working well... but 1080p still has issues.

After a little googling, it appears that the 1080p issue between 606 and the PS3 slim is common.

Did anyone else here have that problem and solve it by replacing additional caps?

If the problem is artifacts then turn off Deep Color on the PS3.
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post #303 of 648
6/27/11 at 7:52am
Thanks for the input, fellas.

I wonder if it's the caps since this 1080p issue seems to be far too common between the 606 and the PS3 slim in particular. I might as well replace the rest of the 100uf caps, though. How many are there in total?

What about replacing the 1uf caps as I read earlier?

The 1080p issue isn't artifacts. The input would just flicker in and out until it ultimately loses connection and I'd get the "no signal" message. Annoying since I don't want to get another blu ray player.
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post #304 of 648
6/27/11 at 2:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nlpearman View Post

Thanks for the input, fellas.

I wonder if it's the caps since this 1080p issue seems to be far too common between the 606 and the PS3 slim in particular. I might as well replace the rest of the 100uf caps, though. How many are there in total?

What about replacing the 1uf caps as I read earlier?

The 1080p issue isn't artifacts. The input would just flicker in and out until it ultimately loses connection and I'd get the "no signal" message. Annoying since I don't want to get another blu ray player.

It's white snow then horizontal shearing alternating with black screen and then no signal. I had the same problem with my son's PS3 and Dune. Both would play perfectly in 1080i mode but would not hand shake in 1080p. After i turned off Deep Color on PS3 and set the Dune to 8bit all is well and playing 1080p 24/50/60 without any problems.

I still say try it and see.
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post #305 of 648
6/27/11 at 7:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by haloguy628 View Post

It's white snow then horizontal shearing alternating with black screen and then no signal. I had the same problem with my son's PS3 and Dune. Both would play perfectly in 1080i mode but would not hand shake in 1080p. After i turned off Deep Color on PS3 and set the Dune to 8bit all is well and playing 1080p 24/50/60 without any problems.

I still say try it and see.

Just confirmed I've had Deep Color set to "off" all this time.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks.
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post #306 of 648
7/3/11 at 1:07pm
I am happy to see that all you Onkyo 606 owners were able to fix the HDMI problem. I am an owner of a Onkyo 876. Of course, the unit quit working three months after warranty expired. I took it to an authorized repair shop and was told that it would cost $1000.00 to replace the HDMI board. I couldn't believe it. Needless to say, I'm in the market for another receiver unless I can fix my old one.

My question is whether anyone knows whether replacing the capacitiors would also solve the problems with the 876. I haven't opened the unit so I don't know how different the board is from the 606 board.

Thanks
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post #307 of 648
7/3/11 at 3:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pops44012 View Post

I am happy to see that all you Onkyo 606 owners were able to fix the HDMI problem. I am an owner of a Onkyo 876. Of course, the unit quit working three months after warranty expired. I took it to an authorized repair shop and was told that it would cost $1000.00 to replace the HDMI board. I couldn't believe it. Needless to say, I'm in the market for another receiver unless I can fix my old one.

My question is whether anyone knows whether replacing the capacitiors would also solve the problems with the 876. I haven't opened the unit so I don't know how different the board is from the 606 board.

Thanks

The HDMI board on the 876/906 receivers are an entirely different beast from the 606. I had my 906 sent in for repairs and the tech told me he had to replace 16 caps on the HDMI board. I wish I had taken a picture of the board before it went into the shop but the new caps are the same surface mount types as the original. I would have thought that they would have replaced it with regular caps but no.

The tech told me it takes about 2.5/3 hours to repair one of these boards at a cost of $250, not including shipping so you might want to look at someone repairing said board iso replacing it. He also mentioned that there are different variants of the same HDMI board so a repair on one may not be the same as another.

The HDMI board appears to be a bit tricky to remove. If you look closely, there is a fine silk screened note that says you must short a junction before removing the board from the receiver.
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post #308 of 648
7/5/11 at 4:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon S View Post

The HDMI board on the 876/906 receivers are an entirely different beast from the 606... If you look closely, there is a fine silk screened note that says you must short a junction before removing the board from the receiver.

This requirement is typically to avoid damage to chips on the board from static electricity. The junction could be a place to put a blob of solder to short across a gap between two solder pads on the board, or it could be two pins that need a small jumper as used on computer motherboards perhaps. VERY important to undo this short after reinstalling the board but before powering up the receiver!
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post #309 of 648
7/7/11 at 8:12pm
Hey everyone. So I had posted a while back about successfully repairing a 606 and since then, I have bought another off eBay in attempt to fix it. At this point I have almost done everything there is to do: replaced all 100uf caps (x10) and added 1uf caps to regulators. This has not solved the HDMI problems. I believe the problem may lie at the C8609 cap. When I removed the old cap, the PCB tore up with it and now I am left with the situation in the picture (sorry it's not highlighted). I can't really solder to anything. Is this what is holding me back? I have tried to hold the cap in place while powering it on but still no handshake. Any suggestions? Thank you.
LL
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post #310 of 648
7/17/11 at 2:01am
Thanks for posting this useful information.
I could repair my Onkyo TX-SR606. I replaced 100mfd/4v capacitors with 100mfd/16v.
Only thing I noticed is a small delay while switching video from one inpit to another. But thats OK.... I am happy.
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post #311 of 648
7/19/11 at 7:47pm
I have an Onkyo 805 which works except for the HDMI is totally dead. I replaced all but 1 of the 100uf caps (didn't order enough, whoops) and it did not fix the problem. I'm hoping the last one does the trick.

Also, with the 1uf on the regulators, how do you know which regulator to put them on? From the photos posted here, I don't see any reason why some regulators are chosen and some are not.
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post #312 of 648
7/19/11 at 11:45pm
Did you check for the polarisation oft the electrolytics, you changed ?
Any solder problems (traces) ?
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post #313 of 648
7/23/11 at 9:23pm
Everything regarding the soldering looks good. Replaced the last cap, never touched any of the 1uf stuff on my 805 though.

It seems the HDMI inputs on my receiver are now functioning at least - they get and process the audio signal. The HDMI output does not work. In fact, even having an HDMI cable plugged into the output will cause the receiver not to process the audio(on certain sources). Unplug that, and the sound plays fine.
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post #314 of 648
7/30/11 at 2:05pm
Hi,

I am a newbie to soldering and repairing electronics. I have tried following the instructions in this thread. But i am having a hard time removing the hdmi board from my sr 606 receiver enclosure. I have removed the 5 screws as well as the white and black wires. However i am having a tough time removing the hdmi board from the 3 plugs. I have circled it in the attached photo.

Can anyone tel me, which will be the best method to remove the hdmi board from the 3 plugs

Thanks!!
LL
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post #315 of 648
7/31/11 at 12:23pm
Hi
I replaced all the 100uF capacitors as my unit with HDMI was all but dead. The switching problem seems to have been fixed, but the HDMI output comes with a strong blue tinge, as if blue saturation has been increased.
I replaced about 8 100uF capacitors on the back and one on the top. Can someone please help me?
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post #316 of 648
8/8/11 at 6:11am
hey guys...really great tutorial to fix onkyo receivers!

has anybody ever tried to fix a onkyo 905? could get one with exact the same problems. osd still works, but the inputs are "dead".

@dazzler1234
have you tried to add 1µF 50V cer caps like some other people in this thread? there are few people which could fix the problem with this caps!
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post #317 of 648
8/13/11 at 11:29pm
So, I changed the 5 caps (4 back 1 front) regained HDMI!!!

Also added a couple fans, utilizing the daughter board 12v and ground. (one fan is an old CPU fan so its a bit on the loud side....)

All in all I felt like I had accomplished a lot....

However, have no sound at all now... Attempted to reset the device, changed thru the devices, cannot even get sound on the tuner... Any ideas?


Thanks. Hope someone can help me our before I throw this thing out the window, or sell it for parts or something....

Edit: I forgot to mention when I was testing the fans the ground and a 12v touched and there was a little spark. Possible blew out a fuse?

Any ideas?
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post #318 of 648
8/15/11 at 6:54pm
Hi - I am a newbie to this Forum. You've got some great information here!

I've got a 606 that stopped HDMI switching and had no OSD. I did the 5 capacitor (100uF) replacement (C8072, C8602, C8609, C8096, C8162). HDMI now switches just fine, but OSD did not come back.

I thought that I read all the posts in every screen of this thread, but I might have missed something. I did not see a solution for this particular situation. Could anyone please point me in the right direction? Is there another capacitor that is specific to OSD? I've done resets to no avail. I have checked that Immediate OSD is set to ON. Naturally, I can see the menu settings on the unit display, but whatever HDMI input I have on the screen just keeps showing when I push SETUP. That video output does go away for 3-4 seconds after I hit RETURN to exit the Setup Menu, I assume while it re-establishes the HDMI handshake. Then normal HDMI output displays.

Any clues would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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post #319 of 648
8/16/11 at 1:32am
Hi all,
thanks a lot for this great thread.
It cured a big problem and greatly improved the WAF of my AV-equipment...

I only echanged the 5 electrolytic caps (100µF, 16V, 105°C) because I didn't have the 1µF at hand for the regulators.

Before the repair: Had to wait for 3-10 mins for the receiver to warm up, before I could get a picture from the mediacenter-PC

After the repair: Picture comes up immediately (1-2 secs) and switching between different HDMI sources works flawless.

But: I have no OSD (Source and Output are HDMI)

Could please one of those, that now have (re)gained their OSD tell exactly in which mode the OSD is displayed? Do you have to turn the source off (blue screen)?
Which settings do you use on the Onkyo so that the OSD is displayed?

I read in older threads that whenn the screen is connected via HDMI there is no OSD at all (by design), only when connected via component oder s-video ?! Can someone confirm this?

Thanks a lot for your help!


BTW, I added some extra cooling (2x 92mm fans), because some of the trouble seems to be heat related as it seems. Here's some pics.

Attachment 220204
Attachment 220205

I gave them an external power through a universal wall power supply with adjustable currency. The currency is reduced from 12V to 9V, so the fans are almout inaudible. I have a Master-Slave Multi Plug Adaptor anyway, which powers up the fans as soon as the AV-Receiver turns on.
LL
LL
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post #320 of 648
8/16/11 at 4:24pm
Replaced the 5 capacitors with Radio Shack part 272-1028 just last night and everything appeared to be passing through fine. I was surprised it worked considering how bad my receiver had gotten and that i've never soldered a thing in my life. Before the fix my receiver would no longer pass 1080p at all, would take 45+ min to warm up and pass 1080i/720p, and began towards the end to randomly make loud static sounds from my speakers when my PS3 was on, and caused the receiver to go into what i'm guessing is a speaker saver mode so my speakers wouldn't get damaged. After the fix, I plugged in my 360 w/ hdmi to the receiver and hdmi to the tv and 1080p passes smoothly.

One thing I wish Eds video had shown or the tutorial on the main page was taking the HDMI board out of the receiver. I've taken apart cell phones for repair, multiple tv's (lcd, plasma, LCOS, DLP, CRT, and LCD rear projection), and my ipod touch numerous times, but i couldn't figure out how to tackle the power cable connected to the board! I assumed the 5 wires came out from the plastic, but i pulled fairly hard on it and they wouldnt budge so i became afraid that they were soldered in there and i would ruin it if i pulled any harder. After tinkering around for an hour and a half trying to figure out how to remove the plastic piece did i finally get the wise idea to go to the end of Eds video and see him put it back together. Found out the wires were separate from the plastic on the board and pulled them right out (while pushing down on the top as noted on the front page).

The rest of the parts were easy to take off, but soldering took a good amount of time since i, as stated, have never soldered anything a day in my life. The first 3 capacitors weren't too bad to solder, but i think i ruined the tip of my iron because on the last 2, i couldn't get the solder to stay on the board where i wanted to and it kept staying on the iron. Once i was finished, upon closer inspection, the tip of the iron looked messed up, but whatever it was cheap (<$12) and i didn't ruin anything.
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post #321 of 648
8/17/11 at 10:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by maygit View Post

Replaced the 5 capacitors with Radio Shack part 272-1028 just last night and everything appeared to be passing through fine. I was surprised it worked considering how bad my receiver had gotten and that i've never soldered a thing in my life. Before the fix my receiver would no longer pass 1080p at all, would take 45+ min to warm up and pass 1080i/720p, and began towards the end to randomly make loud static sounds from my speakers when my PS3 was on, and caused the receiver to go into what i'm guessing is a speaker saver mode so my speakers wouldn't get damaged. After the fix, I plugged in my 360 w/ hdmi to the receiver and hdmi to the tv and 1080p passes smoothly.

One thing I wish Eds video had shown or the tutorial on the main page was taking the HDMI board out of the receiver. I've taken apart cell phones for repair, multiple tv's (lcd, plasma, LCOS, DLP, CRT, and LCD rear projection), and my ipod touch numerous times, but i couldn't figure out how to tackle the power cable connected to the board! I assumed the 5 wires came out from the plastic, but i pulled fairly hard on it and they wouldnt budge so i became afraid that they were soldered in there and i would ruin it if i pulled any harder. After tinkering around for an hour and a half trying to figure out how to remove the plastic piece did i finally get the wise idea to go to the end of Eds video and see him put it back together. Found out the wires were separate from the plastic on the board and pulled them right out (while pushing down on the top as noted on the front page).

The rest of the parts were easy to take off, but soldering took a good amount of time since i, as stated, have never soldered anything a day in my life. The first 3 capacitors weren't too bad to solder, but i think i ruined the tip of my iron because on the last 2, i couldn't get the solder to stay on the board where i wanted to and it kept staying on the iron. Once i was finished, upon closer inspection, the tip of the iron looked messed up, but whatever it was cheap (<$12) and i didn't ruin anything.

Your iron's tip probably isn't messed up, just oxidized. The hotter the iron, the faster it happens. The oxidation prevents solder from flowing, so it clumps up on the tip. If your iron is part of a set that includes a small piece of sponge, wet that, heat the iron, touch it to the end of a piece of rosin-core solder, then wipe the tip on the wet sponge. You may need to do this several times, but it should help remove the oxidized solder. As an alternative, Radio Shack sells small containers of a combo tip cleaning and tinning paste.
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post #322 of 648
8/19/11 at 9:18pm
Really!? Hmm...I'll have to check it out. If it's not broken, that's great, but if it is....oh well, i think the tip is a whole $3 to replace. Thanks for the suggestion though!

As an update to my post, I have played around with my xbox 360 (HDMI 4), ps3 (HDMI 1), and wii (component 1) and have confirmed that everthing is working so far including the on screen menu. I have not tested HDMI ports 2 & 3, but i'm sure they're working just find as everything else is.
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post #323 of 648
8/22/11 at 11:43am
I finally got up the courage to try this today, and it's working almost perfectly so far!
Thanks so much to everyone for such great info and pics.

The only part I had difficulty was adding the extra caps between out and ground of the voltage regulators (I had the problematic Toshiba ones that can be identified by having 48033BF printed on them, so I decided to take this additional step). The solder just didn't want to stick to the ground connection, but after several minutes of scraping with a scalpel, daubing with a flux pen, and huge ugly blobs of solder I just about made a connection to them (I think)

Before:
- No OSD
- No analog to digital video conversion
- frequent horizontal lines, flickering, and occasional dropouts on HDMI sources

After:
all works, but I still notice a white horizontal line flickering every few minutes, but that's still a huge improvement for me.

Additional tips:
- Be very patient when pulling out caps, do a very gentle circular motion with tweezers/forceps for a couple of minutes until the connections give away gently (I've seen a few posts around the web with people saying they pulled a trace off the board and can't fix it )
- Don't buy Onkyo products
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post #324 of 648
8/23/11 at 7:17pm
My onkyo finally crapped out today. No video or sound via HDMI.

I'm almost tempted to throw it in the lake..
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post #325 of 648
8/24/11 at 1:42am
May I ask which models are presumed "safe" if I need to buy a new amp?
I am looking at something like 808, 809, 708, 709, 1008, 1009
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post #326 of 648
8/24/11 at 7:20am
CZ:
Just wanted to post that I have been wondering about this HDMI handshaking failure issue for over a year and finally got around to looking into it. My heart sank when I found out it was a hardware issue but then I found this thread and decided to see what I could do despite rookie-level soldering skills. So I ordered 10 of the "closest to OEM" chips you linked to and replaced all ten of the 100u chips this morning... AND IT WORKS LIKE A CHAMP NOW!

Thank you so much for posting the great step-by-step information. I almost broke off the power connector on the HDMI daughterboard though, I couldn't figure out what you meant by "press down" lol.
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post #327 of 648
8/24/11 at 7:34am
Just adapt the methodology shown and it will work for the 876 too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by henningdalgaard View Post

amazing research done here.
My 876 is starting to act up. Still no fix for that model?
Onkyo should have a lawsuit on their hands for all this hdmi crap.
I paid over $1000 for mine in Denmark and I have used it max 50 hours. This sucks!
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post #328 of 648
8/24/11 at 1:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

Just adapt the methodology shown and it will work for the 876 too.

IIRC, the 876/906 HDMI board has to be shorted out in one corner before removing... there was some fine print on the HDMI board about it....
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post #329 of 648
8/27/11 at 12:21am
Hello all!

Well, I just bought a 606... bad move...

HDMI issues altho the seller said it has no issues....

So, best of a bad thing, replace the 100uf caps. HDMI handshake sweet as now! BUT...

The unit wont do OSD, Wont upscale any composite, s-video or other signal to hdmi and strangely switches audio input but not video between input sources unless i turn it off and back on..
So i can watch dvd no problem, switch to sattelite, i get dvd picture with satellite sound... turn it off and on - sat pix and sound untill i change input again....

Can someone help me out with a service manual on line or any other info????
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post #330 of 648
8/29/11 at 1:47pm
I am having the same HDMI handshaking issues with my TX-NR906. Can anyone tell me which capacitors to replace. Is there way to test the capacitors to determine which ones need to be replaced? If I can fix this on my own I will be able to start growing my hair out again...haha!
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?)