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How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 15

post #421 of 806
woodz93

Maybe I missed it. Did your OSD come back as well or just the Composite inputs with this second replacement of C8602?

Thanks!
post #422 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBacksFan5205 View Post

woodz93

Maybe I missed it. Did your OSD come back as well or just the Composite inputs with this second replacement of C8602?

Thanks!

Yep, everything is in good working order
post #423 of 806
Extending the leads might not be such a good idea because of possible interference etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodz93 View Post

Pardon the long post, I think this is a noteworthy observation.

For a month or so now, my Roku connected via composite usually would 'white' out after an hr or so of inactivity. just a white screen. Switching to another input and then back would bring it back. Or sometimes I would be watching netflix or anything on composite (either DVD or Roku) and on random occasion the top 5% of the screen would show artifacts, eventually leading to a screen whiteout. Again, switching inputs and back would bring it back to life. Recently, last week/ weekend marathon of Uncharted 3 and not turning off the unit for 5 days in a row I notice the OSD went kaput. Nothing serious going on with the PS3, HDMI inputs were all good. Composite inputs died as well. I figured maybe the repair has finally broke down and the unit went bonkers again. Instead of re-replacing all 4 caps, this time I figured go at it one at a time. I started with C8602. Visually, it looked like it was bloated a bit so that's what led me to start with that one. Replaced JUST THAT ONE and it is up and running again. So be sure to follow CZ_THE_DAY's recommendation to use auxiliary cooling. I may even extend the leads so that this particular capacitor is situated either closer to the side of the unit or that it is situated on the top side of the daughterboard, because the airspace of C8602 happens to be in the vicinity of a heatsink from the lower card. Since I got 3 of those caps as backup, I think I can experiment with ideal placement of that capacitor, should it die again (or I can return the 3 caps to rad shack so I have lunch money LOL)

Bottom line - the rad shack capacitors work fine for this purpose, it's lasted me over a yr now. Just remember to ventilate, or the one you replace for C8602 won't last very long...
post #424 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

Extending the leads might not be such a good idea because of possible interference etc.

Good point. Probably might have to buy one of those hi temp capacitors online for that particular one when it goes kaput *fingers crossed*...
post #425 of 806
Update to my original Blue/Magenta problem.
I resoldered all caps and also cleaned up some extra flux that got onto the circuit I didnt see before.
While there I changed 8096 since I had extra caps.
Its been about 20-30 hours of usage so far without any oddities.
I'll have to give it some more time before I'm convinced the Blue/Magenta problem is solved.
For the time being, at least it didn't take 15 minutes this morning before it started to work!
Thanks again to all who contributed!
post #426 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by digi_brat View Post

I Just repaired my 2.5yr old HT-R960 (ht-s9100 THX) by replacing :
10x 100uF caps
5x 1uF caps
and one 220uF cap

1080p and pass-through now works as it should, the osd still seems broken... but it only worked for about a month when i first bought it, so im used to look at the receiver when changing settings anyway.

I spent about 6 euros on parts.

thanks to all contributors here for all the info, you know who you are

In case you live in The Netherlands like i do, here's where i got the parts:

5x
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/search/s...uct&R=224-4280
1x
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/search/s...uct&R=224-4189
10x
http://nl.rs-online.com/web/search/s...uct&R=191-8126

Just wanted you guys to know that my Onkyo is still up and running perfectly after the last fix.
post #427 of 806
What 220uf did you replace, and why?
post #428 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by leshric View Post

What 220uf did you replace, and why?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post19695885
post #429 of 806
Hi,
before finding this thread, my Onky TXSR606 almost didn' t work at all: Except for my satellite receiver, I got no picture from any device plugged in via HDMI or component. Perhaps my other HDMI devices may have worked after waiting a few minutes but I didn' t test that. OSD didn' t work as well.
After changing the 5 capacitors mentioned in the youtube video on the last page HDMI switching works perfect, I get picture from every HDMI device instantly which hasn' t worked bevor.
However I still have no picture from component inputs and still no OSD.
Any idea what I can try?

Greets Michael
post #430 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by micp1989 View Post

After changing the 5 capacitors mentioned in the youtube video on the last page HDMI switching works perfect, I get picture from every HDMI device instantly which hasn' t worked bevor.
However I still have no picture from component inputs and still no OSD.
Any idea what I can try?

I seem to be in the same situation as you. I just had the 5 capacitors replaced and the HDMI switching is working now. I don't get the OSD though. I didn't use upconversion to HDMI much before but it doesn't seem to work when I have the TV switched to the HDMI input and select either a component or S-video source on the receiver. I'm pretty sure these worked at some point a long time ago, but I haven't tried them since I when I originally lost the OSD and started having the switching problems.

I've looked through this thread and I don't see anyone who did the repair and got switching working but no OSD, then did another repair and got the OSD working. I think I've read of people who replaced only the 5 caps and got the OSD working. Has anyone been able to get the OSD working after it not working after first replacing the 5 caps?

Thanks.
post #431 of 806
OK guys, thank you, thank you, thank you for all the work you've put into this and the help you've to us all.

So my R667 degraded down to never recognizing any input. So replaced the 4 caps on the first page noted by red arrows. This brought back life to my Dish input, but not my PS3. I tried altering all my PS3 display settings, but nothing worked. Then I removed the board again and replaced the 5th cap that Jon has in his pic in post #221.

VoilÃ*! PS3 has life again!

PS: CZ, I thought you might update your "red arrow pic" to include the 5th cap that brought me back to 100%.
post #432 of 806
All the 'talk' has these boards costing $250 or more which in my case is over 75% of original purchase. Thanks for your input just the same

post #433 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by telnetdoogie View Post

I have a TX-SR706 which was experiencing very similar issues. My receiver would take 10-30 minutes to 'warm up' enough to be able to switch to an HDMI source. I wound up just leaving it on 24/7 since it would make things easier each morning as we turned on the TV. The other issue I had was on much higher-bandwidth application (like blu-ray 1080P with DTS), I couldn't sync at all. It would just say "no signal". I could get the bluray player working at 480P and could step it up gradually (every few minutes) to 720i, 720P, 1080i... and there it would stay. If I tried to go 1080P it just wouldn't sync at all. I found this thread, changed all of the 4V 100uF caps on the HDMI daughterboard (there are 12 on the 706) and voila! Working again.

Hi,

Another succes story here with my TX-SR706! Yesterday I removed the 12 caps as mentioned by telnetdoogie (100uf/4v) and replaced them by these: 100uF 10V 105'C - Nippon LXF - Mini, High Freq. Use, Low Z, Long Life

No more warm up time here when using the 360. No more blue color where black should be.

Thank you all for the info!
post #434 of 806
Wondering if this would work with my HT-R670. It started showing artifacts last year, the whites would turn bright pink, etc. Then my Aux HDMI input would not work at all. A fan on the unit helped with the artifacts and I bought an HDMI splitter so I sent the video direct to my LCD while letting the Onkyo handle the sound. I decided to try the board again recently, and turned deep color off on my PS3, and so far, seems to work great. Still no HDMI through Aux. It's like that channels dead. Any thoughts?
post #435 of 806
Good day Sport fans.
A/V Receiver :Onkyo TX SR806
Symptoms:
Sound would have a very loud spike then no audio or video from cable/sat or PS3. After turning the system off and on no video or audio from the cable/sat or PS3. Tuner would have audio for 5minuts and then the load audio spike then no audio. No OSD display. Reset to factory settings did not help.

Service,
Changed (12) 100 uF 4v caps and (2) 100 uF 16v caps to 100 uF 25v Aluminum Electrolytic Caps.
Checked all solder joints on the Caps, the polarity and all is good.

Test
First start up after 5min OSD on the Samsung display. Samsung will show HDMI/Avi resolution numbers but no audio or video when I switch to PS3. The HDMI/Avi resolution will be displayed every 2mins. Then I could not get the OSD to be displayed anymore. No audio/video from cable/sat or PS3. There is no issue if I connect the PS3 directly to the TV. The tuner will now be on and no more loud spikes.

Next step?
Should I replace the 100 uF 25v Aluminum Electrolytic Caps with 100 uF 4v conductive polymer solid Cap? How can I test the daughter board, I have a decent multimeter or is mine one of the unlucky 25% not fixable boards?
post #436 of 806
I'm brand new but wanted to relate my experience and get some help if possible. On my TX-SR506, I used GhettoSuperSta's procedure and replaced the 5 100uF caps and added the 4 1uF caps (even though I didn't see these recommended in other posts !?).

Well, I'm either one of the 30% that aren't successful ... or I messed something up. After the fix, I got nothing. in fact, when I hooked my flat screen to the receiver on HDMI1, HDMI1 disappeared as an in put option whenever I turned on the receiver !! When I shut off the receiver, HDMI1 again appears on the source options for the TV ?

I removed all the caps I added / replaced and hooked the receiver back up to the TV. The HDMI1 phenomenon was still happening when I turned on the receiver. Does this mean that even after removing the caps, something is still wrong with the HDMI board ? Or do I need to redo the caps and then the board will work ?

When I display the firmware versions, I get VD ???????????????. Again, does this mean my board is toast ?

Thanks for any help you can give this poor soul.

I'm on the verge of ordering a Denon.
post #437 of 806
my first post and have the same current problem....does it appear this repair process will work on the 706?
post #438 of 806
thank you sooo much for this post. I replaced 10 caps on my 606 and it works like a champ now. had it taken apart, old caps removed, new caps soldered in, and put back together in less than an hour. one hell of a write up!

here are the 8 that i replaced on the bottom.


the bottom 8 finished


the top 2 finished


A big thank you again to all who contributed to this thread.

side note, is the a paticular trick when trying to solder the 1uf caps to the regulators??? i can NOT get the solder to stick....
post #439 of 806
Thanks all for your contributions and CZ for starting.

My setup = Onkyo 606 connected to Panasonic Viera Plasma TV using HDMI. PS2 connected using analogue. Wii connected using Component. Humax Freeview HD tv box connected using HDMI.

Symptoms = After about 18 months ownership I found it would take a few minutes to handshake with my TV. This got progressively longer but I stupidly thought it was the Humax box that was faulty. After about 2 years ownership I realised it was the Onkyo that was at fault and started to read on the internet about these units having the famous problem. It got to about 2.5 years of ownership and I had to leave it on standby 24/7 to ensure we could watch the tele. I thought that the situation was as bad as it was going to get so decided to leave as was.

After getting Zelda for this Xmas I dusted off the Wii (haven't touched it for past 18 months since becoming a Dad....) only to find it wouldn't display a picture through to the TV. After checking the PS2 I found it wouldn't display either and the only thing working was the television from the HUMAX box connected using HDMI. No onscreen display menu either.

I've changed just the four caps listed in the service bulletin: C8072, 8096, 8602, 8609

I used 4x 100uf 25V 105degC caps from Maplins (UK).

Since doing this I've now got OSD menu back and all inputs are now working again. Fingers crossed that it stays that way. Might think about doing the bridging caps across the regulators.

Also going to improve the cooling in the cabinet and may consider putting some active case cooling on the Onkyo. I've got an old PC tower in the loft which has a fair few fans on it I can reuse.
post #440 of 806
Oh thank you! Long story short my problem is fixed by this too.

My Linux Media Center PC (XBMC/MythTV) has always had this problem. You can turn it on and it works, but about 15 minutes after that, the HDMI would start dropping out more and more frequently until it would eventually turn off completely. If you let it warm up for an additional 15-30 minutes it would work fine for the rest of the night. It worked no problem with the cable box so I never thought I'd be able to get a warranty claim on it. Well fast forward to Monday when I hooked up my new Roku 2 XD. Guess what? After 15 minutes it does the same thing.

The voltage regulator on the top was a 480xx toshiba so first I just replaced that with a Nichicon 100uF 10V capacitor I had from another project, and a AVX 1uF 50V MLC. It still dropped out around the 20 minute mark so I did the 4 on the other side (which were not toshiba brand) too. Working fine after an hour now!

A few notes about the 1uF caps:
-- Prepare the tab you're soldering to by scraping off any oxidation and schmutz with a razor blade or X-acto at an angle.
-- The tab is there to wick heat away so it requires a good amount of heat to get the solder to start flowing on it. I used 775F which is pretty hot compared to the 675F I used on the other parts. Just put a small amount of solder on your tip and lay it down on the tab. When you can touch the tab with solder and it flows, touch it with the capacitor lead and you're golden.
-- If you're still having a hard time, the middle pin on the Voltage Regulator (the one that is cut off) is electrically connected to the tab, so if you have an easier time with that, the results will be identical.
-- If you still can't get it, the electrolytic capacitors you're replacing are also connected to the same net. It isn't ideal because you want your ceramics as close to the "problem" as possible, but if all other attempts have failed, you can try attaching them together with the 100uF caps.
post #441 of 806
Not sure if my problem is the same fix please help

I have a tx605 and it seems to pass video threw hdmi but no sound
it was working fine but now no sound
OSD seems to be working aswell

what should I do?
Thx
post #442 of 806
Is there a recap of the "recap" of the board somewhere? I've read through the first half and the last half of the 15 pages and it sounds like it's worth trying the repair on a 674 I picked up from a Craigslist guy yesterday (depressed to get home and find no HDMI output). I'm not certain what the latest suggestions are for the 674 - do all caps, some caps, value changes, etc... would someone mind compiling?
post #443 of 806
Great thread.

I've attempted this on my 606 and after replacing the 100uf 4v caps the output has a heavy blue tint and is very pixelated. I've checked all the solder joints and verified continuity between the traces. This problem didn't exist prior to replacing the caps. HDMI switching is great now though but the color is very blue. I used caps from Radioshack and had a mix between 35v and 50v radial and axial due to lack of options they had. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
post #444 of 806
Got my caps today from Mouser, and was excited to pull apart my 606 and replace the 4 problem caps: C8072, 8096, 8602, 8609. I know these were the right ones, as I could tell these were the 4 that were replaced under warranty about 20 months back.

It was pretty easy. I got my OSD back, but I'm still cutting out on the same 3 of 4 channels I was having problems with prior to the "fix". I used 4 100 uF 10v 105 degree caps, as someone linked to very early on in this thread. I have 4 more of the caps. Any others that are worth changing out? I'm about to throw this thing in the pool.

Thanks in advance for any additional hints.

Update. I replaced 2 more of the 100uF caps: 8607 and 8162.

Hoping for the best.

Update #2: It looks like the replacement of those 2 additional caps did the trick. I did them both at the same time, so I can't say which one really did it. I'm glad I ordered extras. Still keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for this post thread, it's very helpful.
post #445 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by littlegingadave View Post

I've changed just the four caps listed in the service bulletin: C8072, 8096, 8602, 8609

I used 4x 100uf 25V 105degC caps from Maplins (UK).

Thanks to this thread my 606 is back to normal. I don't have the best luck when it comes to soldering so I started with just the four caps listed here and that did the trick.

100 uf, 10V, 105 C

The only problem I had was the one of these four that's on the bottom of the board. I had to resolder it so it was laying down more because of the close spacing to the XM/Sirius/iPod board and asociated cables that are below the HDMI board.

Anyway... $1 in caps and a bit of time saved me a $550 purchase to replace the receiver.
post #446 of 806
After setting my WDHDPlayer, PS3 and Cable-receiver to 1080i ,I finally raged and almost quaddamaged everything The WDHD Box i have is set up with a new software so it sometimes looses it settings which also set the video output to auto which made it set itself to 1080p so i had to plug the hdmi direct to screen and i always had to move the shelf and it always happened after a hard day where you come from work and just want to couch potato and not dealing with electronically issues.... so i finally ordered some caps and did the simple 5x 100uf10v job... took me 40 minutes and no it.... works like a champ



I was dealing on ebay getting a cheap 608.. but now i can buy something else



OH !! SIDENOTE !!


WARNING


The powersupply on the board is just the cable without the connector... i almst broke my board cause i thought the white connector is connected with the cable and plugs onto the board.. but its just a ribbon cable !


Did not know what "ribbon" means while rading the first page
post #447 of 806
Few weeks after my initial repair replacing the caps on my HT-R960, the unit died on me.

I just hear clicking relay sounds when the Power button is pressed.

Any pointers to repairing this?

Kris
post #448 of 806
Good Morning

Brand new forum member. Kudos to all who have contributed here. I was upset at the thought of having to consign my much loved 606 to the recycling skip in the sky until I found this thread. Having successfully repaired a Samsung LCD TV I thought I would give it a go and repair my 606.

All but one of my outputs on the 606 would drop signal via hdmi and the issue was worse when viewing HD signals. I have now replaced 10 caps with 100uf 25v and 3 out of 4 (DVD, GAME, VCR/DVR) are now working flawlessly. The only one I do not get a signal through is the CBL/SAT I only get a blue screen. Can anyone advise on what I may have done wrong?

My OSD works fine so I could probably manage without the one channel but I am just a little confused and want to make sure I have not done anything wrong which could jeopardise the life of the unit if there is a connection off somewhere.

Thanks in advance
Gav
post #449 of 806
Update on the above.

Having come home from work and switched on after doing a full factory reset I now get a picture through all outputs but is takes at least 10 secs to get a picture and the display screen on the amp flashes 'hdmi' for about 20 seconds before settling. No dropped picture or lost signal so far.

I did bugger about with the 'ribbon' cable that has (nearly) caught many out but I was able to clip it all back together, could it be that causing the problem?
post #450 of 806
Sport fans,

It seems the people with the know how has left the building, hope not. Onkyo service centre said that they will not look at my 806 after I have molested it, I did ask if I could buy the hdmi board but they have not answered that question so guess not.

Replaced all the 100/4 caps with 100/10
all the 100/16 with 100/16
and 220/4 with 220/10

Added the 1/50 caps to regulators.

The main processor is v.1.06
video shows 1.16 so no ?????? marks.

The OSD is back.....great? But I only have a light blue screen (Samsung tv). Samsung show 720x576 @ 50. If I change the the output from the 806 the tv still show the same 720x576

Onkyo show 576p/50 and it does not matter what is the output from Ps3. If I unplug the HDMI lead Onkyo will still show the same 576p/50.

What else can I try?
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