How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 16

Well, I replaced every 100uf 4v cap (including the radioshack ones I originally put on) with Nippon 100uf 10v high temp low ESR caps. Still no change. I just get a very blue tinted picture with lots of pixelation. I've checked all cables, reseated the card, checked all solder joints, verified continuity across the traces, etc.

Any suggestion would be very much appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

where are you located? These are PAL signals....

really need help/advice please

Having successfully restored the picture and playing a dvd player through all channels for a length of time I put the unit back into it's normal home and connected everything back up. Picture works great but I have no sound, nothing at all. I must of disturbed something when repairing but I can't figure out what having checked everything again I don't know what to do next.....

HELP!!

Same problem from Spain. About 30 min to see PS3/X360 main screen. Mapli, RadioShack and mcmelectronics do not send to Spain. Any store to buy the capacitors?

I bought the TX-SR606 for my dad about 3 years ago for Christmas. He got a blu-ray player this year for Christmas and that is when we found out that 1080P was not working through the receiver...then about a few weeks later all 1080 would not work. I found this post, ordered the capacitors from mouser electronics that were recommended, we replaced all of the 100uF capacitors...conclusion...everything working like it was brand new. Thanks for this thread...saved my dad a few hundred bucks!!

Jon S,

I am in Finland. There is no difference if I choose pal or ntsc, the 806 is usually on auto but yes it is strange.

Another success story

TX-SR876 HDMI issues (replay to previous "Scottie2" post)

- HDMI main out did not work after 2 mos.
- SUB out re-sync on occasions which would take up to 10 mins.
- after 2 years and 6 mos., PS3, HTPC or Bluray would not sync at all.

Replaced the 13 caps with 100uF 105c 16v as indicated from parts Express and within a couple hours, the unit is working as it should. No issues with OSD and for some reason it is running cooler than normal.

I really wish Onkyo would address the HDMI and Display issues (had to replace burnt resistors for the display to come back to life).

Thanks again Scottie2!

Thank you guys, just did the fix yesterday on my 576 by replacing 6 caps as suggested on the very first page. Wow.

No luck for me on an Onkyo 805. I replaced 9 100uf 4v with panasonic 100uf 16v to no avail.

Problem with blue saturation solved. Had to buy caps again and resolder them again. Now it works.

Did you check the polarity and watch aut for the 105°C temperature spec of the replacement caps.

Yes. Measured twice and soldered once, so to speak. I even went back in and did the 220uF 4v with 105C 16v 220uF's. No deal. I haven't tried the little guys on the power regulators though.

I'm thinking I differ from you all in the fact I think my hdmi died somehow from a lightning strike that hit either my house, or right out front. Everything is surge protected with decent gear, but basically about the same exact time somehow my Xbox 360's ethernet port died. Too much coincidence in both facts.

I think I'm just screwed.

In early January 2012, my brother gave me his SR606, saying that instead throwing it to the garbage, it would be better me having it, knowing that I like to tinker a bit in electronics (vintage). After checking the unit, some faults were manifest: no OSD, long handshake with the HDMIs, component input not working.

After googleing a a bit and finding this site, and some others, I perused the posts wondering if it was repairable. I finally ordered some pieces from Digikey (100 uF, 10V 105 C 565-3047-ND, and others), and replaced the C8609, C8162, C8602, C8096, C8002.

Well, I am glad to report that all is working again as it should: OSD back, component input working again, and fast HDMI handshake. I think that I will keep it for a while, for I have no AV receiver, and it seems to be a decent one.


Thanks for the helping guys here, and elsewhere.


Helios/ Jerry

Just wanted to say thanks to all those before me. Fixed my HT-R667 after going two years of piping it through the tv.

One thing to note: keep the capacitors you replace on the bottom as low and flush to the unit, especially in the middle as there can be a clash with a cable in the board below.

Also, as folks have said, the power cable (black ribbon) is a ribbon cable that comes out of the connector, the white part DOES NOT come with it. This lead to much cursing on my part until I figured that out.

Thank you so much for the detailed instructions. I fixed my SR606 after nearly a year of frustration, waiting longer and longer for the signal from my PS3 to come up.

I followed the instructions, and my receiver is like new. Fast HDMI switching, and even the OSD works!

I was nearly about to throw in the towel and buy a new receiver, but you just saved me $400.

-Jason-

Success on Onkyo TX-SR806!!!

I replaced all 13 100uF 4V caps on the 806 HDMI board and my HDMI switching / sync / need to warm up problems are gone.

Make sure you follow CZ_the_DAY's advice on removing the old caps:


Luckily I was able to "fix" the connection pads that I pulled off on the first 2 caps I replaced. After that, I followed CZ_the_DAY's advice a little closer and all remaining caps came off easily.

Before the repair, I would have to wait 2 to 5 minutes for the receiver warm up before sources less than 1080P would work. It would take closer to 1/2 hour for 1080P sources to start working. I would get either "No Signal" or multi-colored digital noise on the screen (greens, blues, and reds) that would slowly clear up. I would also get various popping noises until the receiver had warmed up.

Hello,
I have the TX-606 and I have replaced all x10 caps with 100uf 25v caps but I am having more issues with it then before the repair but this has got me stumped as I cannot work out what's at fault.

Before the repair the symptoms were
The HDMI would intermittently drop out for a few secs.
The OSD would not work at all on HDMI (I did not know it was meant to until reading this forum).
I was getting lots of horizontal lines flashing up intermittently on all HDMI sources.
The front composite port had stopped working.

After changing the x10 caps
The composite is working normaly.
I now have an OSD.
There seems to be no signal at all from HDMI, its not even showing an HDMI input on the AMP screen.

I have checked and triple checked that all of the caps are the correct way around, - terminal is at the flat end of the box drawn on the PCB and the + is at the pointy end, I hope this is correct.

I have double checked all of the solder points and even resoled any that were not perfect, I did have any issue with 3 of the solder points where the copper track has come away, so I had to scrape some of the green coating off next to the missing copper track to make a clean solders point.

I am a computer engineer and this is the first soldering I have ever done, so I am confused with what's going on because I would expect at worse to have the same fault at I originally had.

I assume that one of the caps is not working correctly or one of the connections is not good but visually they all look good, I have a multimeter so is there some way that I can test the connection to check they are functioning correctly.

Regards
Steve

monkeyboy2283,

A couple of thoughts for you:

The 5 screws that mount the HDMI card are very important. I believe that they provide the ground for the HDMI signals. I once left them out in testing a repair and things didn't work until I reinstalled them.

The other tip is that the cap pads are directly connected to the nearby regulators, so you can solder them directly to those leads. For example, C8602 (negative) connects to Q8651 on the wide blade terminal and the positive cap wire connects to Q8651 lead 3 (right next to TP12).

So, your multimeter should tell you if these points are connected properly.
However, even if they are and you have lifted the pads, you will have to check continuity in the other direction. Specifically, does the positive lead still connect with inductor L8601 (right next to the cap + lead)?

If the pad is lifted on the negative side, just solder the cap to the wide blade of Q8651. This will require more heat and probably some solder flux but once you have it done, the negative side should be OK. You would have had to tear up a lot of the circuit trace on the negative side to keep this fix from working.

Then just resolder all the other 100uF caps the same way and things should get much better for you.

Good Luck!

Hi DBacksFan5205,
This information could be a life saver because as I have refitted a few of the caps a few to many times the connections are now not 100% good.

The caps that I am having issue getting a good connection on are
C278 on the – connection
C7084 on the + connection
C8609 on the + connection

So with the multimeter testing part, am testing the positive of the cap to the inductor and the negative to the wide blade of the regulator next to it ?

It turns out that you can have 16 years of IT hardware experience and still not know anything about electronics, other then what you learnt at school donkeys years ago.

Steve

Yes, you should test continuity of C8602 (negative) to Q8651 on the wide blade terminal and test continuity of the C8602 (positive) to Q8651 lead 3 (right next to TP12) as well as to inductor L8601.

C278 (negative) should be connected to Q273 ground (the wide blade).

I don't see a C7084...

C8609 (positive) should connect to pin 3 of Q8654 (the one closest to the positive lead of C8609).

"I don't see a C7084..."

That should have read C8084 on the + connection, its the one on the right if you have the HDMI ports at the top when looking at it.

Steve,

C8084 (positive) can be connected to C8072 (positive) or Q8005 (pin 3 - which is on the right side of the regulator with the orientation you gave, opposite from the little chip capacitor C8073). By doing this, you will be bypassing L8010, but it should work anyway. Now, C8072 is just above Q8005 and may look like it is marked C8002, but in reality the mark of C8072 is to the left of that capacitor not the C8002 mark on the right. See attached pic. (I hope I can insert an image or at least attach a file).

 

C8084 Connection Tips 1.pdf 459.5595703125k . file

DBacksFan5205 thanks for all you help with this, I will try this tonight and report back.

Steve

Hi,
I have now done the mods to the 3 faulty connecters and did a full test but still nothing over HDMI, I am getting audio over the optical input so the amp it still working.

There just seems to be nothing getting through the HDMI, there is no HDMI on the LCD panel, I cannot even get the amp menu or any picture over the composite.

Do you think that the HDMI PCB is dead or am I doing something wrong, I have attached pictures of my PCB and all of the connections, with close ups of the 3 modded connections.

Any ideas where to go now or should I be looking for a new PCB.

The annoying thing is that I did have the menu and composite working at one point but now with better connections they are not.

Steve

 

Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI PCB 1.pdf 411.1572265625k . file

 

Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI PCB 2.pdf 481.5517578125k . file

 

Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI PCB 3.pdf 475.8984375k . file

Steve,

I noticed a couple of things in your pictures. You may need to reflow the solder on the blade of Q273. Your connection doesn't look good to me. Use more heat until the solder flows over the blade and lead wire.

Also, it appears as though the circuit trace (copper under the green) may have lifted around where the negative side of C278 originally connected (under the blue tape in one of your pictures). This would make the connections to C277, C279 & R295, etc questionable. See attached schematic Word file for the heavy (ground) line on the schematic. Just because you've connected the negative side of the capacitor to Q273 doesn't mean it's connected to that ground line and the related parts.

The rest of your work looks like it might be OK. The lifted trace on C8084 might still be a problem.

I also noticed that connector P2801B (the one that takes the flat white harness) looks like it has been "tweeked" off to an angle. You might want to check that those 13 connections are still OK.

Good Luck!

 

HDMI Repair Tips1.doc 210k . file

Hi,
With the lifted trace on C8084, there seems to be 3 connections going into where C8084 + used to connect (see attached), should these 3 connections be connected together and would it help to connect the cap + to the L8010 inductor (if this is even possible) instead of pin 3 on Q8005 that I have now using the wire.

Steve

 

C8084.pdf 114.85546875k . file

Hi,
I Have tested the continuity from the leg of the new cap C278 to the of C279, R295, C277 and also I have tested continuity from R293 to C279 as this should cover the whole range (see attached my diagram of this).

With C8084 I have been doing a bit of detective work and tracked down where they 3 tracks go to and continuity tested them to check they connect to the lifted track, C8084 seems to be attached to R8068, L8010 and the group of C8082, C8104, C8085, C8105, C8103, 8083, 8086, C8106 surrounding the two chips Q8002 and Q8595 (see attached).

Do you have wiring diagram of this section and can you confirm that this is the case and the $1,000,000,000 question is what can I do about getting them connected again because all of the multimeter readings on every other connection on the PCB is 100% working.

Steve

 

C278 continuity testing.pdf 55.677734375k . file

 

C8084.pdf 114.85546875k . file

Appreciate the yeomans work on this thread by everyone. Sort of a quandry- Sent some blistering letters to Onkyo. Waited a couple weeks, said the heck with it, will do it myself. Got the parts, easily removed the board with all the great tips, and gently removed the capacitors. Next AM got a letter from Onkyo saying they would authorize one out of warranty repair if the unit has not had "misuse or abuse". So I am assuming they will say you went into the unit and we will not touch it. But on the converse they did not reply in a timely fashion and I can be a prick if need be. But I said, I don't feel like paying to ship it. I don't feel like driving the hour, will just fix it. So in a bit of a rush (my wife's B-Day) I solder everything in. Did not take the old solder off the board or the old leg remnants, but though I had pretty good contacts (have dabbled with electronics for 30 years going back to Hafler amps/pre-amps, auto ECU units with good success). Brought it home and reconnected everything and just get a blue screen. Bad solder joint? Had no problem other than failed handshaking prior. No OS menu issues, etc. Something terribly wrong or just clean off the old solder/legs and redo? I have 5 extra caps. I guess I could pull everything off and take it to the repair center and tell them I already did some of their work by taking the caps off?? Should not matter to them unless something else is screwed up. Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your time.

Jeff

Steve,
Sorry for the delay - I've been super busy.

I will attach a section of the schematic for the Q8002/Q8003 area (I assume that's what you meant, not Q8595).

Yes, I think if it is possible you should try as you said to "connect the cap + to the L8010 inductor (if this is even possible) instead of pin 3 on Q8005 that I have now using the wire" and remove the black jumper.

The one thing I don't see is whether you checked continuity from + C8084 to the trace solder connections (see green arrows). There seem to be two. One is the diagonal strip of solder coming down from where the board is marked C8084 and the other is next to where the board is marked C8017. Or am I missing something and you already checked that?

I can't see whether the + C8084 lead is isolated from the circuitry beneath your jumper wire connection. Are you sure it isn't touching C8108 or R10?

I hope the attached schematic section helps.

You about ready to buy a new HDMI card?

 

C8084 Continuity.pdf 221.4931640625k . file

Steve,

Oops! Forgot the second attachment (the schematic).

Here it is ...

-D-

 

Q8002 Q8003 Schematic.doc 213k . file