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How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 17

post #481 of 806
DBack- You seem quite fluent in this. Any thoughts about my dilema? Does the blue screen just suggest I have a bad solder connection with the new capacitors as it had not problem other than HDMI function. The board came out super easy, though I guess I might have damaged something but it doesn't seem so. Thanks
post #482 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscopus View Post

DBack- You seem quite fluent in this. Any thoughts about my dilema? Does the blue screen just suggest I have a bad solder connection with the new capacitors as it had not problem other than HDMI function. The board came out super easy, though I guess I might have damaged something but it doesn't seem so. Thanks

When you get the blue screen, do you also see the name of the input you have selected in white at the bottom of the screen? That is, does it say "DVD, VCR/DVR, CBL/SAT, or TV/GAME"? In my experience, that's not a bad thing. It tells me that you probably still have the On-Screen Display (OSD) menu. Do you have OSD?

If you don't see the name of the input, does the blue screen change when you unplug all HDMI inputs? Is this any different than what you experienced when the HDMI switching first started to go bad. Or, did your display previous to your repair have an error message (Input not found, Searching for signal, No Input, Check Cable, etc.)? It is possible that the blue screen is just the default for your particular TV when there is no input detected.

Another thought just hit me. Did you double check the polarity of your replacement capacitors? Did you have any problem with lifted circuit trace pads for the capacitors?

Let me know about these things and I will be happy to noodle your situation some more.

-D-
post #483 of 806
DB- prior to any work I got the typical no input detected that would eventually connect but over time no connect. Do not recall if there was an OSD after I put the new capacitors on, think there was just a blue screen. Just took the board out and a couple of the resistors (error on my part, meant to say the 1uf capacitors used to bridge)were not as well connected on one end. Kept the base on the capacitors and lined the square and narrowed end on all to keep the correct polarity. Lifted the caps off very gently so no damage to anything. Was in a bit of a hurry so I did not removed the remnant legs or the prior solder. Perhaps could have a cold joint and plan to reheat and redo the loose resistor arms.worst case can take to the approved repair place and tell them just popped the caps off because Onkyo did not tell me service was approved until very late. Thoughts? Thx for sharing your noodle.
post #484 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscopus View Post

DB- prior to any work I got the typical no input detected that would eventually connect but over time no connect. Do not recall if there was an OSD after I put the new capacitors on, think there was just a blue screen. Just took the board out and a couple of the resistors were not as well connected on one end. Kept the base on the capacitors and lined the square and narrowed end on all to keep the correct polarity. Lifted the caps off very gently so no damage to anything. Was in a bit of a hurry so I did not removed the remnant legs or the prior solder. Perhaps could have a cold joint and plan to reheat and redo the loose resistor arms.worst case can take to the approved repair place and tell them just popped the caps off because Onkyo did not tell me service was approved until very late. Thoughts? Thx for sharing your noodle.

Jscopus,

So, as I understand it you've decided to take your receiver in to an Onkyo-approved repair shop. I guess there's not much point in saying that you didn't answer some of the questions I asked to help me troubleshoot your receiver ("When you get the blue screen, do you also see the name of the input you have selected in white at the bottom of the screen? That is, does it say "DVD, VCR/DVR, CBL/SAT, or TV/GAME"? If you don't see the name of the input, does the blue screen change when you unplug all HDMI inputs?).

I would be very surprised if they take one look at your HDMI card and say anything OTHER than that your unit has been exposed to "misuse or abuse". I'll bet that removing the card and fooling around with the capacitors may be exactly what Onkyo had in mind when they mentioned this restriction. Plus, I wouldn't wait around for any thanks from them for you saving them some work by already removing the caps...

Did your dabbling in electronics give you an true appreciation for the power of ESD? Were you ALWAYS grounded when you handled the HDMI card? If for some reason you were not grounded, there's a good chance that you have zapped one of the many surface mount microcircuit devices and your card is now toast.

I'm not really sure what you mean by "a couple of the resistors were not as well connected on one end" and "loose resistor arms" but that may be an indication that the card has seen some less-than-delicate handling. The numerous small 22uF caps are particularly susceptible to rough handling and can get bent over and their pads lifted.

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

-D-
post #485 of 806
Actually I did answer and my comment about taking it in was based on if this does not work. I was grounded (have a wrist clip) and I said do not recall about the OSD as only had one HDMI connected. Part of the described repair is 5 capacitors and 4 1uf capacitors (said resistors in error). Everyone talks about the problem getting the small capacitors that you bridge to adhere because of resin coating. I had a couple that I added that we're not as well bonded as I had thought. That was what I was referring too. I had already removed the card to redo it, that was why I could not answer your blue screen question and Onkyo repair is a last ditch. My point with them would be customer service did not respond for a couple weeks after initial contact. It was reasonable to presume they were not going to approve anything so I got the parts. Not sure why you would have read my post and interpreted it to mean I had no interest in repairing using your insights. Finished it by thanking you in advance for your "noodling"?
post #486 of 806
Just reheated all the solder connections and made sure the 1uf capacitors were better adherant (though I understand they are not necessary and only reduce the risk of repeat injury. So is the status of their attachment even going to affect this?). Am at the hospital and used their Med repair stuff while I waited to do something. Hope when I put it back in I am happily surprised. If a blue screen again will see if there is any OS info.
Jeff
post #487 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscopus View Post

Just reheated all the solder connections and made sure the 1uf capacitors were better adherant (though I understand they are not necessary and only reduce the risk of repeat injury. So is the status of their attachment even going to affect this?). Am at the hospital and used their Med repair stuff while I waited to do something. Hope when I put it back in I am happily surprised. If a blue screen again will see if there is any OS info.
Jeff

Jeff,

Sorry that I mis-read "between the lines."

Now that you say 1uF caps, I understand what you mean. I find that if you use an Exacto knive to scrape off the flux or resin (especially from the flat blade of the negative connection to the regulators) your soldering will go much easier.

I didn't think that you had no interest in my insights, it just seemed to me that you were leaning quite a bit towards taking it into the shop.

I too hope that you are happily surprised when you turn it on after reheating the solder joints.

Waiting for a report on your results,
-D-
post #488 of 806
DB-
Thanks for not giving up on me. I reheated and touched up some connections. Redid the couple 1uf's and Presto. Great picture. But no sound as I had not hooked up the speaker cables. Hooked everything up and reconnected. Beautiful picture, still no sound! No sound problem prior. What the heck? Everything went back together smoothly. Not sure what I have seen earlier in the thread. There were a couple people I think with a similar outcome but no clear resolution that I can recall. Thoughts??? Again, thanks for the thoughtful response.
Jeff
post #489 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscopus View Post

DB-
Thanks for not giving up on me. I reheated and touched up some connections. Redid the couple 1uf's and Presto. Great picture. But no sound as I had not hooked up the speaker cables. Hooked everything up and reconnected. Beautiful picture, still no sound! No sound problem prior. What the heck? Everything went back together smoothly. Not sure what I have seen earlier in the thread. There were a couple people I think with a similar outcome but no clear resolution that I can recall. Thoughts??? Again, thanks for the thoughtful response.
Jeff

Jeff,

I had that happen once. Turned out on that unit that one of the 5 wires on the power cable to the HDMI card (the black cable, not the flat white one) was not making good contact inside the connector. I pushed a short wire (actually from trimming a capacitor lead) into the hole (I believe it was the one on the right as you look at the unit from the front) and made a secure connection and voila! - audio came back.

Check the black cable by pulling gently on it. If one of the wires is not being gripped by the connector, you'll be able to tell and make the appropriate correction.

Cheers,
-D-
post #490 of 806
DB- Will check that out. Hope that is all it is as I was real careful with the power cable as so many people have screwed it up. Was concerned as this is a fairly common issue and I have never seen anyone comment on it previously. Four or 5 people with repaired video who lose their audio, Have never read anyone address that before. So I thank you.

Jeff
post #491 of 806
New twist. As suggested I released and reseated the power cable. Did not yet add a wire into the channel to "tighten" up a connection. Turn the unit on (no source in and just connected to the speakers) and after about 5-10 seconds get a crackling burst of sound (perhaps with an underlying 60 hz oscillation??) which lasts 3-5 seconds than cuts out. Think I have heard that mentioned earlier and will scour this thread. Previously had nothing. Could that be the power connection is not solid and that raspy crunchy sound is intermittent contact? Any thoughts would be appreicated. Power connection seems pretty solid and all the pins/wires seem pretty solid.

Jeff
post #492 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscopus View Post

New twist. As suggested I released and reseated the power cable. Did not yet add a wire into the channel to "tighten" up a connection. Turn the unit on (no source in and just connected to the speakers) and after about 5-10 seconds get a crackling burst of sound (perhaps with an underlying 60 hz oscillation??) which lasts 3-5 seconds than cuts out. Think I have heard than mentioned earlier and will scour this thread. Previously had nothing. Could that be the power connection is not solid and that raspy crunchy sound is intermittent contact? Any thoughts would be appreicated. Power connection seems pretty solid and all the pins/wires seem preey solid.

Jeff

Jeff,

With power on and with an HDMI Input selected that has audio, try wiggling that HDMI power cable and see if the intermittent sound changes. If it's the cable, it should be immediately obvious. The retention force of the other 4 wires can be misleading even if one of them is making poor contact. If any of them seem at all loose, insert the shims/leads. Let me know what you find in your thread scour, too.

-D-
post #493 of 806
DB- Put a tiny piece of wire from a 1ufcap into the slot furthest right. No crackly,burst of noice, but still no audio. Even with a HDMI cable TV source. Get a very nice picture, but no sound. Thoughts? Is there a fuse/reset that would just affect an audio circuit?
Jeff
post #494 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscopus View Post

DB- Put a tiny piece of wire from a 1ufcap into the slot furthest right. No crackly,burst of noice, but still no audio. Even with a HDMI cable TV source. Get a very nice picture, but no sound. Thoughts? Is there a fuse/reset that would just affect an audio circuit?
Jeff

Jeff,

You might check the fuse on the underside of the green pwb on the rear side of the huge power transformer. I thought that it controlled the 12V to the HDMI card and if blown would preclude having both audio and video, but . . .

You can't see the fuse; it's underneath. Look for a hole through which you can check the condition of the fuse "filament." Don't know why they put it in such a inconvenient place.

Worth a look anyway.

Another thing I've seen happen and is worth checking. The three white connectors on the right that interface the HDMI card with the vertical card (DSP). Know which ones I mean? I believe they're P8001, P8002 & P8003. Sometimes the solder joints on the outside of that vertical card (the through holes for the connector pins) become compromised due to all the wrestling it takes to free the HDMI card from the connectors - especially the one towards the rear of the unit. Unless you can see perfect "wetting" action of the solder or if any of the pins look less than well soldered, take your soldering iron and carefully touch them up.

Got my fingers crossed for you!

-D-
post #495 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBacksFan5205 View Post
Steve,
Sorry for the delay - I've been super busy.

I will attach a section of the schematic for the Q8002/Q8003 area (I assume that's what you meant, not Q8595).

Yes, I think if it is possible you should try as you said to "connect the cap + to the L8010 inductor (if this is even possible) instead of pin 3 on Q8005 that I have now using the wire" and remove the black jumper.

The one thing I don't see is whether you checked continuity from + C8084 to the trace solder connections (see green arrows). There seem to be two. One is the diagonal strip of solder coming down from where the board is marked C8084 and the other is next to where the board is marked C8017. Or am I missing something and you already checked that?

I can't see whether the + C8084 lead is isolated from the circuitry beneath your jumper wire connection. Are you sure it isn't touching C8108 or R10?

I hope the attached schematic section helps.

You about ready to buy a new HDMI card?
Hello D,
Using the Q8002 Q8003 Schematic I have worked out what has broken on C8084 (see red dot on attached Q8002 Q8003 Continuity Testing doc), so basically it looks like the chips Q8002 and Q8003 were not connected to the rest of the circuit.

I have done a repair to recreate the + 8084 Pad, to do this I have tinned three small wires and laid them down individually on each of the three copper tracks coming into the old pad, then joined them all and attached the + leg of the cap (see attached photorealistic diagram I have done in MS paint).

Its not pretty but seems very solid and continuity tests well from the leg of the cap and all of the components that should be attached.

This has given me limited success because all of the analogue parts of the amp seem to be working normaly (none of this worked before the repair) so it seems that C8084 and the associated chips Q8002 and Q8003 are part of the analogue bit of the PCB.

Do you know if the two holes next to the printed C of C8084 are connected to anything because to me they look to be isolated and I was worried that they may cause some kind of short.

My current symptoms are
\tThe amp menu now works normaly on every input.
\tWhen you change the volume or input it displays the volume or input name on the screen.
\tIf I connect an analogue device (camcorder) to the Aux composite at the front, I get full picture and sound with no issues.
\tWhen you switch between the HDMI devices you get a blue screen with the device name in the corner.
\tThere is no picture or sound from any of the HDMI inputs and the amp screen does not show an HDMI input is detected with the exception on HDMI 1 (DVD).
\tHDMI 1 (DVD) is acting differently to the other HDMI inputs because when you connect a device to this port you get a black screen, the HDMI will flash on the amp screen for about 12 secs then stay on solid and show the sound input correctly (i.e. PCM or DD) but you cannot hear it.

My conclusion from this its that the repair on C8084 is now working ok and this has basically fixed the analogue section of the HDMI PCB, but something else is holding it back the HDMI functionality, the only section that I have not looked at the schematic for, is repair I did on C8609 but it seems to be fine, any ideas?

I will also need check the three white connectors on the right that interface as mentioned in your last post because I have now taken the PCB in and out about 5 or 6 times and these may have worked loose.

With regards replacing the PCB for a new one, I would love to do that but availability of the part is an issue because I am based in the UK and there is none available that I can find in the UK and the only ones I have seen for sale are in the US and the cost of importing one from the US is an issue.

Regards
Steve

 

Q8002 Q8003 Continuity Testing.pdf 138.751953125k . file

 

Repaired 8084 Pad Diagram.pdf 40.38671875k . file

 

Repaired 8084 Pad.pdf 348.6201171875k . file
post #496 of 806
DB- punked out and took the receiver for the warranty repair and was ready to do battle over the fact I had worked on it. The people at All Tech Electronics in NJ were very cool about it. Said not to worry. Guess they have had enough guff from everyone so upset about this HDMI problem that should have been recalled. Should have it back in a few days. Will let you know.
Jeff
post #497 of 806
Many thanks to all. Due to the excellent contribution from people on this an another forum, I did the repair, on my 606 and replaced 5 x 100uf capacitors with 100uf 25v units. From having to wait 20minutes for a picture to come on and no OSD, it connects in seconds and I have the OSD.
A mate also gave me his 606 to use for parts, so I did this one with the same result!! Bonus!!
I have a couple of questions, if anybody would be willing to take the time to reply.
1. As the guy in the shop said they were 105c caps, I never checked and now I did check, they are 85c caps. Is it worth changing to 105c caps?
2. I could not get the 1uf 50v none polarised caps. Do I need these? I understand that if I don't put them in, then the problem will occur again, is this true?
On another note, after looking through the forums it was suggested that if you look for the VD number and got ?????????? then the eeprom was shot. My mates 606 that I repaired with the above fix showed VD ?????????????????? before I did the repair. After I had fitted the 5 x 100uf caps, I checked the VD Firmare and it not showed VD 1.20 etc. So by fitting the caps, this can resolve the ????????????? issue. Hope I may have contributed a little to this thread by adding this.
post #498 of 806
My capacitor fix apparently was good but they are replacing the HDMI board anyway. Said the sound will be corrected with this as well. Nope it isn't a while to get the part as I hear it is in big demand....
post #499 of 806
I ordered the replacement capacitors from Mouser and followed the instructions and everything went very well, my 606 starts up immediately and without 5-10 minutes of HDMI dropping in and out

The picture seems softer than before but I've only watched streaming content (LAN/WAN) so I'll have to watch some BluRays to find out for sure.

Thanks again!
post #500 of 806
Hello,
sorry, but my english is not so good. I have a problem with my Onkyo TX-NR905. He is 4 Years old, and since one week i have no no video signal. I have input an PS3, VU+ HDTV Receiver and an HTPC all over HDMI. The sound is o.k.Yesterday I have changed all 100µF cups on the HDMI Board, but I have anyway ni video signal. On Componet Video and Video out it is the same Problem. No signal for Video on TV. Sometimes I have green an red Stripes. My Beamer show me then a resulution of 525p. Can somebody helps me?

Best regards
trixie
post #501 of 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by boetzinger View Post

Hello,
sorry, but my english is not so good. I have a problem with my Onkyo TX-NR905. He is 4 Years old, and since one week i have no no video signal. I have input an PS3, VU+ HDTV Receiver and an HTPC all over HDMI. The sound is o.k.Yesterday I have changed all 100µF cups on the HDMI Board, but I have anyway ni video signal. On Componet Video and Video out it is the same Problem. No signal for Video on TV. Sometimes I have green an red Stripes. My Beamer show me then a resulution of 525p. Can somebody helps me?

Best regards
trixie

It appears to be the HDMI board failing. See page 14 of this thread for a possible repair if you are technically capable. It covers the repair of the 876 which should be very similar to your 905 board. If not, you will have to send it in to Onkyo for service. It costs about $400 to repair or $1000 to replace the HDMI board.
post #502 of 806
Hi All,
I live in the UK and did the 100uf repair last week. Totally corrected my 606, but now I have a question.
If anybody has the time to reply.

How old is your repair?

1.In haste I mistakenly used 100uf, 25v 85c caps. If everything is working would you change them out for 105c caps?

I noticed that the 1uf 50v units you ordered were polorised caps, yet an earlier post asked for none polorised. Which side of the regulator to you attach the positive part of the capacitor too?

Same question as above really, if the fix of the 100uf is working, would you fit the 1uf 50v units?

Many thanks for any help you can give me.
post #503 of 806
I replaced all 100µF cups on the HDMI Board. At first I have the same Problem. On the next day when I start my Onkyo i have no Problem with it. I can't understand this. I will see how long it works now.
post #504 of 806
Hi.
I have problems with my TX-SR674E. Everything is working fine besides HDMI board.
I found service manual and when i try to read IC's serial numbers i get numbers on DSP/Main CPU, but HDMI says only "/".
I measured voltages and something is not right. To HDMI board there are main power line with 14V - i think that's fine, aut after first 5V regulator i get 1.8V which is to low input voltage for other 5 or more SMD regulators which should give 3.3V and 1.8V, but instead that they give 1.1V.

Maybe some help/suggestion? Capacitors? I've checked those around regulators and they seem to be fine. I unsoldered them and check with capacity meter.
BTW: Can somebody take a photo of 5V regulator and near area and post it? THX in advance.

EDIT:
JUPIIII!!!! HDMI is working again. I think ground was very important - one screw to middle HDMI and voltages are now fine 3.3V and 1.8V.
post #505 of 806
Thanks for all the info in this thread, gave me the confidence to repair my 606. 1080p switching is now back working, very happy.

Thanks to all involved in making this thread.
LL
LL
post #506 of 806
Hi. Another successful repair !!

Thanks for the effort put into writing this guide. I have repaired hundreds of electrical appliances and AV equipment, and this is the best user written guide I've ever read.

Recommend reading from start to finish before attempting just so you don't get caught out on the simple things, which the guide clearly points out, and makes it extra easy.

Thanks again, from NZ.
post #507 of 806
I finally bit the bullet and attempted the repair after months of nursing my receiver along. I only replaced the 5 100mF caps but everything seemed to go smoothly. No problems with the cables or removal of the old capacitors. Replaced with the Mouser products recommended earlier. I'm a total novice when it comes to soldering but I don't think I fried anything or created any bridges. Hooked everything back up and did a factory reset. Nice picture and HDMI switching but still no component video (Wii). Also I seemed to have lost multichannel audio. My display says PCM not Dolby Digital. My audio settings are set to "HDMI (Auto)" but I can't choose any of the "real" surround modes. Anyone have any idea how to resolve this?
post #508 of 806
I repaired the HDMI PCB per instructions and have great switching and video but no sound from any source. I have the 12 volts on the HDMI pcb and I checked all fuses for integrity. I also checked the three white edge connectors for poor solder joints and found none. The system turns on and stays on with volume setting on display and all firmware reports back a valid number. Also if i start the auto speaker set-up, I hear no tone from any speaker and it stays on "Measuring 1" until I cancel the function. I have checked all speaker wires for shorts and impedance checks good too. The system does not appear to be in a "protect" mode. I am a Clinical Engineer and have 30 years expierience with component level repair so I was careful with PCB removal and soldering, but accidents do happen. Does all audio go thru that HDMI Daughter pcb?

Where might i be loosing my audio signal??

Thanks in advance for any help!!
post #509 of 806
Firstly want to say thanks for all the info in this thread, I was considering getting rid of my reciever, but now I am going to give the repair a go, and I want to add a fan also.

I have purchased the necessary capacitors and a PC fan with an inline resistor on the power (red lead). I am pretty good at soldering, but do not understand more than basic electronics, so can someone help by telling me where to connect the red black and white leads coming from the fan, so it can draw enough power to create a little air circulation, but will not damage the amp further?

Thanks
post #510 of 806
I have the exact same sypmtoms. Replaced all the 100uf caps. HDMI switches OK now, OSD works, but I have blue tinted output. I resoldered and rechecked everything 10 times over to no avail. Any resolution to this problem?
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