How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 21

Not sure I understood your question. My ignorance. Could you please elaborate?

I pulled out hdmi card and expected tuner to work through headphone jack. It doesn't. Does anyone know if tuner would need hdmi card? Just trying to narrow the sound issue.

thanks,
Sid

Sid, I am wondering if I can canabalize the receiver and just use the power amp section by itself without any of the complicated computerized controls or processing. The transistors used on this model look fairly stout, decent heat sink, caps, power supply, etc. Maybe string the channels together to get a nice stereo power amp at 150 (or more) wpc??

Also, I never powered the unit up without the HDMI board installed. I could try it, but my suspicion is that it is integral to the entire signal path working.

Also, my tuner works fine. I can pass the audio through via Line 2 outputs to a backup receiver. It's the pre-amp/amp section that seems to have lost the "trigger" to send audio to the output side.

I should add, it's almost like a "breaker" tripped when the caps were replaced, but there's nothing in the manuals I have read online that point to an internal fault breaker or circuit that would cause that.

Any help removing the HDMI board would be appreciated
thanks, Tom

Same Issue here. Just wondering what parts to get...
I have a 606 and thinking of buying these: http://www.elektronica-online.nl/content_details.php?id=4322

will these be good for the replacement?

Also, if the repair fails (no experience at all with soldering), will the optical in still work?

Thanks,
Dave.

My Onyko TX-SR576 has been working fine for the past three years and I've been using all of the HDMI ports without any problems.....
but then HDMI port 1 stopped working a few months back....
and then after leaving the TX-SR576 on all night long on Christmas, I woke up to find that none of the HDMI ports worked.

I attempted to contact Onyko support and they said I was out of warranty and that "the TX-SR576 wasn't on the list of receivers with known issues". So they couldn't do a courtesy fix for me.

This thread saved me though. I ordered the 6 capacitors from Mouser as linked to in the first post and replaced them as suggested.

Happy to report that the receiver works great again.
Thank you CZ_the_Day... even though your original post was from over 2.5 years ago.... it continues to help people.

mine's "bricked"
video OK, no sound now.

If anyone wants it for parts or needs the manual, box, remote, or microphone, send me a PM.
Edited by baco99 - 1/11/13 at 10:04am

CZ_the_Day Thanks so much for all the effort you (as well as alot of other members) put into this thread.
My TX-SR806 has been developing the handshake issues for the last year and seemed to be getting worse
with everyday that passed.
I read this whole thread twice and decided to take the punt and give the diy repair a try even though my solder
skills are non existant
I followed the instructions and took on board other things people had added and after replacing 13 caps my
receiver is now back to 100% perfection.
I was about to replace it and spend another $1000 but in the end it cost me $7 and about 1 and a half hours.
And a big thanks to lchiu7 as i used the cat number in the link you posted to Jaycar to get the caps from Jaycar Australia.

Glad the link was of use. Alas I had no luck with caps replacements myself and after doing it twice and also having intermittent PS problems with no luck, I tossed the unit and replaced it.

I didn't think it was worth the effort anymore since the AVR did not have the capability to decode Dolby TrueHD or DTS HD Master so the media device always had to send MLPCM to it.

Ended up buying 10x Alu elco 100uF/16V Low ESR .
The comment on the item said someone used it for their Tx-sr606 so should be ok...

Will arrive today, maybe I'll also make a video as i'm a total noob at this

I got sound working

While inserting the hdmi card, do not insert it all the way in the three white sockets. Insert it just half way in or until the sound comes back.
This is the way I tested -
I did not have the speaker wires connected when hdmi card was out.
Just had the headphone in the headphone jack.
Receiver tuned to FM.
Then gently inserted hdmi card in the three white sockets, just enough until the point where I can hear the sound in the headphones.
Thats it.
Try it.

Make sure the five power wires are connected or soldered. I ripped off mine, so had to solder all five of them to the back of the board.

The trick to the power wires, or any of those white connectors on any of the boards, push down gently on the white connector, that will release the wires easily without damage. The connectors are spring loaded to grab the bare wire.

Thanks for the detailed repair instructions. I had been putting up with the required warm up for the last couple years, finally it went dead. I found this post, bought a solder station, and replaced the caps. Even with horrific looking globs of solder on my HDMI board and a big gouge from when I tried to pry it off the vertical board, the fix worked! Thanks!

Hi,
Thanks folks for the DIY , it`s very useful !
I did a capacitor repair and now my SR606 works fine at all HDMI ports with video and audio, but I still haven`t OSD and video from composite IN to HDMI OUT.
I checked my VD firmware version - it`s VD ????????.
There is a some kind of a service connector on the board with RS232 protocol. Does someone tried to update units firmware using this port?
Regards!
Nik
.
Edited by niki-amc - 2/1/13 at 1:58pm

I just did the repair and also have no sound. HDMI video switching now works perfectly with all of my devices, whereas it didn't before and I'd solely been using the optical and digital coax inputs on the receiver. Now there is no sound at all, even from the digital audio inputs. In the OSD setup dialog, there is no sound coming from my speakers even during calibration. It seems my amp stage has died. I didn't touch anything else inside the receiver other than the HDMI board.

Any ideas?

Go back and review your repair. All of the audio depends on the HDMI board. You could have just one of the caps in error.

At the C276 cap, one of the two on the top side, I accidentally ripped off the solder points when I was removing the cap there. I spent a long time trying to get solder to stick to the board in those spots. Eventually I succeeded and the cap seems to be attached, but it's very fragile. I don't know if there is a proper connection. I just thought I had dodged a bullet because all of the HDMI switching functions seem to be working.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
(pic is from before I soldered the cap in place. I cleaned it up somewhat and cut away the bit of hanging material with a knife)

If all of the audio depends on the HDMI board, then I'm guessing this is the culprit.

Is this salvageable or did I just brick my receiver?

Yep I bet that is it, which receiver do you have, there is an easy way around this if you have schematics. I have 806 and 608 schematics.

I have a 606. However, I just popped out the board and one of the caps on the bottom was backward (oops!). I will reverse that and try it again...

However, I would still be interested in the right way to fix a problem like I posted up there.

You can solder the cap directly on the chip next to it ( Q272), like the 1uF on the bottom side and it will be not so fragile. Don`t forget for the polarity!
Then cut small piece of wire or a piece of caps leg and make a jumper over the ripped place to connect the ripped path.
And about the sound - take a look to the 3 white side conectors , they don`t make good contact even they look OK.
Edited by niki-amc - 1/26/13 at 2:37pm

I just downloaded the manual for the 606

This is embarrassing, but there is the makeshift solder job on the spot I posted above. It is adhered to the board, but I have no idea if the circuit is complete.

If I were to solder the cap to the adjacent chip, I'm not sure exactly where I would connect jumpers to...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

No, that might not work. Check your PM
Edited by gferrell - 1/26/13 at 3:39pm

So, just desolder the cap from there, and clean all very well.
You can use a piece of wire with melted rosin ( or aspirin if you dont have other), put it on the place you want to clean and heat it with the soldering iron. All the solder material will stay on the wire like on brush.
Solder the caps positive pin to the chip Q272 3rd pin ( thats where the ripped path starts). And negative pin of the cap to the 2nd pin of the chip witch is also shorted with the heatsink( top flat piece of metal coming out of the chip near to the Q272 mark on the board)
Take something sharp and cut this piece of a ripped path that is coming from the 3rd leg of Q272.
you need to scratch the other side of the ripped path near to the mark C276 and also to cut that end witch in on the air to make that point stronger. Solder a piece of wire between 3rd leg of Q272 and other end of the ripped path near the mark C276. Be sure not to short it somewhere,better use a isolated wire for that.
That`s all. If you can measure the voltage of the L281 or L282 it must be 3.3V . If there are 3.3V the job is done.
Edited by niki-amc - 1/27/13 at 6:29am

So I have read through this thread, and many others, and decided to pop open my 607 to see whats going on with this HDMI board. I figured I could attempt to replace any capacitors, but I found several brown burn marks on the board. These look to be very near the heat sink "cleverly" placed below the hdmi board. Here are some pictures. http://imgur.com/a/ePrdg

Yeah, so, I assume this board is no good. Replacing the caps seems like it would be a futile exercise. Can anyone offer some insight into this? The unit does power up, and composite inputs do work. So I may just offload this on ebay since I have already replaced this with a different brand AVR.

After looking at your pictures I don't really see any burns. If you are talking about the brown residue around some of the pins in the close up pictures, that appears to be just harmless flux residue from where those parts were soldered in.

I was talking about the brown residue. It was something I noticed and hadn't seen before. I assumed it was a bad sign. So, do you think going ahead and replacing all 100uf caps would be a worthwhile endeavor?

It's certainly worth a shot. I don't see any visible damage to the board from your pictures, and I do electronics assembly/repair for a living.

Onkyo TX-SR706 handshake problem or bigger problem?

OK so I have a Onkyo TX-SR706. I've had problems with the handshake issue for months and I suspected a problem but not until I visited this forum did I know I really had a problem.

Same problem as most everyone has reported with the SR606 initially. But tonight a more potentially ominous problem. I used to be able to switch on the receiver listen to FM audio, wait for the unit to heat up and then switch on the TV and watch in 1080.

Now the protective power switch doesn't even allow me to power on the unit. It is the "stand by" light that lights up. I've unplugged the unit for an hour and plugged it back in but still the stand by light comes on.

Does this point to a bigger problem that just the handshake issue? Something tells me "yes".

I've searched this and other forums extensively and according to the user "spldart" says “There is only one bulletin for that model. It happens only while running 1080P signals though. That is normally a fairly reliable HDMI board in the onkyo lineup.”

He further says “I'll have to try to remember to check for bulletins on the 706 tomorrow but the last few to cross my bench needed major recaps of the hdmi/dsp pcb. There wasn't a bulletin on replacing cap on this board on this unit last I checked but the fact is this unit gets hot and the caps esr gets so high that operation gets' iffy. And it's not just the 100uf by 4v caps. This is a more extensive recap. Though the large caps near the regulators on one end of the board tend to be good. Just all those smaller caps need to be suspect.

Any help is appreciated. Bought this unit for nearly $800 in May of 2009. Trying to resurrect it.

For those with the 606 issues there's also a guy on e bay with the user name davehtuc. He has over 140 favorable responses to the work he does on replacing the capacitors on my board and several of the other Onkyo boards.

Just want to let the forum know that I have a 3 year old TX-SR606 that has been failing to display the OSD and has had issues with HDMI locking and switching when the signal is higher than 480P res. I have lived with this for almost a year and was about to replace my Onkyo when as a last effort I came across this post!

I ordered 10 (for extras) of the following from DigiKey.com
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=APSA100ELL101MFA5G&x=11&y=14&cur=USD

I replaced the 5 caps that are in the post on my HDMI Board.

I put it back together and problem(s) solved!!!

I wont be buying any more Onkyo but at least my nice 606 is working well again!

Thanks!