How to DIY ; TX-SR576/TX-SR606/etc HDMI daughterboard repair (for dummies?) - Page 4

@CZ

Yep... just got the HT-RC260. Everything working perfectly now. Same cables. Same components. I think we can say for certain now that I had some variant of your HDMI problem.

Goodbye 576!

I hope Onkyo did their homework and we don't have HDMI issues again anytime soon.

FWIW... the RC260 is a decent little upgrade on the 576: a little more juice, TrueHD, DTSHDMA, HDMI 1.4 x 6, Audyssey Dynamic Volume. Didn't need that networkable fluff nor the THX on the 608. Perfect price. Gets my vote.

Adding to the thread:
I have had this receiver for 2.5 years. The first year the receiver was sent to a Onkyo Authorized repair because all the HDMI stop functioning. The following happened over a year, after the first repair, with the last happening a couple of weeks ago:

Problem:
First. 1080p went out on the Playstation 3, had to use 1080i or lower.
Second. The HTR667 Started needed a warm up period for HDMI and Component to work.
Third. Component eventually stop working. Along with OSD. Checked online, you can no longer extend warranty for this receiver. 2 months out of warrenty.

Searched the net:
Countless reads later I found this thread and the following:
http://www.highdefforum.com/high-def...eadache-7.html

Decided to follow what spldart recommended, due to him working on these receivers significantly.

Solution:
Ordered the following off of Digikey.com
1. CAP CER 1UF 50V Y5V RAD
445-2865-ND FK24Y5V1H105Z 0.18900x10 $1.89 (you only need 4)
2. CAP 100UF 4V HB ELECT SMD
PCE3024CT-ND EEV-HB0G101R 0.53000x5 $2.65

3. 2 24oz cans of beer (you need this to work on SMD or microminiature components because they are a pain in the rectum. I see why CZ recommended hole fed components).

After about an 1 1/2 hours, I can gladly say that everything works.
Here are pictures for your viewing enjoyment.

Back:
-Highlighted Blue - Use 1uf 50V Cer Caps
-Highlighted Red - Use 100uf 4V SMD Caps
Before:

After:






Front:
-Highlighted Blue - Use 1uf 50V Cer Caps
-Highlighted Red - Use 100uf 4V SMD Caps

Never really posted my results. Receiver works flawlessly now Thanks again!

I also installed some pc fans and used this to control them
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/59..._IXA-FCEX.html

works well

That bit of was key to getting that board out as was the tip on the power connector.

The tip of gently twisting the caps back and fourth worked exactly as described.

We (My Wife and I) were able to change out the 4 caps with success using the Radio Shack part 272-1028.

Our TX-SR606 now switches 1080p again, and the OSD is back.

Thanks.

George

Sorry for such a long delay in my response to the thread. To summarize what happened...

I should have left well enough alone on the 667, I installed 5 new 100uF caps and the 1uF caps across the regulators. The HDMI output looks distorted now. I will probably eventually clean up and remove 1uF caps, you have be pretty aggressive scraping off the board's laquer coating to get a good solder connection on the regulator sink. I think that is probably one of the issues.

Also, I really mangled that stupid power connection to the HDMI board. Ended up having to solder the bare plug connectors to the board pins.

With those lessons learned, I moved on my old 606. I should have done this one first, as I really had nothing left to lose on it, but it wasn't readily available to me. It helps to have a second person to act as a third hand at times. This time, I only replaced the 5 marked 100uF caps near the regulator transistors. I didn't even remove the power plug this time, instead I had my friend hold the board with the cable extended, just outside the receiver case. In the end, it was a complete success and the ports sync up immediately now from any source.

...so, my advice, get some 100uF caps and leave everything else alone. Try this first before getting any more in depth with your troubleshooting. These are the exact caps I used:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/31-6740


Good luck!

anyone in the NY area willing to do these repair? I am afraid to try it and screw up my unit. PM me please.

Same here, anyone interested in trying these repairs on an hdmi board for the Onkyo TX-SR805 receiver. I too would probably screw it up but would be willing to pay a fair and honest price to have someone do it for me. I live in southeast Tennessee. Please let me know. Thank you.

For me, it takes about 20-40 mins for my HDMI switcher to "warm up". I have lost the OSD and the ability to use the component inputs, even when the receiver is "warmed up". I don't think the daughtercard needs to be replaced so I'd really like it if someone could swap out the bad caps. I wonder if anyone knows any reputable shops in the NY/Westchester area?

any takers?

Replaced only the four bottom 100uf caps with Radio Shack 272-1028's and had full functionality restored to my Onkyo TX-SR606.

Tips: Push down on the connector for the black ribbon cable and use a tape wrapped screwdriver to pry the edge connectors free - thanks CZ_the_DAY!

Gently pull the white ribbon cable straight out parallel to the board - I was expecting a snap lock.

Practice soldering some wires on an old motherboard or something if your skills are rusty/lacking as your contact points are very small. I also used a magnifying glass mounted on a stand over the board.


Thanks so much to everyone's input and work here! I did drink a few beers immediately AFTER it was done Cheers!

First of all I wanted to say thank you to everyone who contributed to this post! Great information about this issue. I am a new member, but have a slightly different problem. I am an electronics technician with a lot of experience in repairing computer boards and plasmas, pretty good soldering skills, and I have an oscilloscope, so maybe I can contribute myself. I bought this receiver for the hdmi capability, bought it about a week ago. My HDMI will not input or output anything, ever, regardless of settings. I tried replacing the caps and adding caps to the regulators, no change. One of the dark charcoal colored components marked 470 (cap?) seems extremely hot. I am looking for any information on what I should be reading with DMM or scope, I guess, and to see if anyone has brought back a completely unresponsive board or not. Any help is appreciated!

ps... sorry for the long post!

Finding service manual will be the best bet. But meanwhile you can start with measuring voltage on all power regulators, you find on this board.

Yeah a service manual would definitely be where to start. I will be looking for one and for now I can get the voltage readings on the regs. Thanks for the reply!

Matt.

Thanks for all this information. Its a little too much for a newbie. Ive had my SR576 for 2 and a bit years.

Im not sure its the same HDMI problem as the rest of you but heres what happens.

I have Cable plugged in to 1 hdmi working
PC plugged in to 2 1080p was working fine
Xbox plugged in to 3 1080p was working fine

Now both PC and Xbox the screen has corruption also the amp turns the screen off and on about 20 times the corruption then settles down and its fine. going direct has no problem. Ive asked about repair and its going to cost around £200 the same cost new. Will the fix posted on the first page work with my problem? How easy is it to perform for some one whos a bit of a newbie soldering?

Im at work so ive only just scan via the post so sorry if this has been posted before. The caps do I need better that the standard ones so it will fix the problem for good?

are these ok??

http://www.rapidonline.com/Electroni...ource=googleps

or

http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eca1...10v/dp/8766878
Any help would be superb.

Cheers
Baker0

It's been a while since I checked this thread, but I haven't had a chance to do any more with this receiver since then. It works great as a 7.1 receiver, getting HDMI to work would just be a nice bonus! I have briefly looked for a service manual but haven't gotten one yet. I also still need to check the voltage on the regs, ap1, do you know what range voltage should be (guess if I read back in the thread, it's probably here)! Cz, in answer to your question, I picked up the receiver used and the guy I got it from wasn't using hdmi, but did use it quite a bit. Good to know it is a coil, in which case it will be reated in mH. When I dig back into it I would like to have some info in hand for doing some more testing. Will be getting info soon (hopefully!) and will post my progress.

Thanks for your replies!

Thanks to all for the time and effort expended with the posts and pics on how to repiar the Onkyo 606 HDMI board

My issues --
.. If unit was turned off and allowed to get cold it would take 30 minutes sometimes before video and audio were present at HDMI ports

.. Could leave unit on all the time and no issues

.. These problems started showing up after about 1 year of moderate use

Ordered replacement caps as referenced from one of the posts from Digikey - parts arrived in two days.. Great company!

Removed HDMI board - no issues with removal
Replaced ALL 100uf caps rather than just the four referenced
Installed the little blue caps on the voltage regulators
Took a few minutes using my inspection light to verify no solder bridges, etc
Reinstalled the HDMI board
Powered back up - Yes! HDMI now through all ports

Used the twist method to remove the caps - worked like a champ
Realized real quick I would have better resoldering results of I lightly pretinned the solder points on the circuit board.

Used small needle point tip and had iron set at about 790

Found that preforming the leads on the blue cap made soldering to the voltage regulators easy - I just put about a 1/16 right angle bend on each lead and used tweezers to hold in place while soldering

Note of interest -- temperature of the receiver before these repairs would rise to about 108 degrees when measured at top vents

After repairs only see max temp of about 101 degrees - so its running cooler

I ordered one of the 120MM cooling fan kits with power supply and digital temp readout from coolerguys.com --- now with one fan on the unit is showing about 80 degrees... hopefully the receiver will give us another year or two of service

Thanks again

Chuck

Chuck --

Great news that you got your 606 up and running again. You're absolutely right about tinning all connections prior to soldering, I do it with everything I solder and it makes life much easier. I am currently in the process of trying to get my hdmi up and running; no luck yet but I have service manual now. Great forum though!

--Matt.

Woooohoooo i done it tonight took me less than a hour and I'm crap at soldering. CZ_the_DAY Thank you so much working a treat.

Well all was well for a few months until this morning. I went to use the Xbox and it happened again... no handshake. There was no warning signs that the problem was back, just didn't work. I guess the Radio Shack 35v caps are an ok temporary fix but you'll find yourself replacing them at some point. Unfortunately I am not patient, so I am about to run back to Radio Shack and pick up four new caps to slap in there. Does anyone have a link to high quality, high temperature resistant caps I can order? Thanks.

I just found this thread after my 576 apparently has had a HDMI failure. I had been switching a PS3, HD-DVD player and a Popcorn Hour through the 576 outputting 1080i.

Tonight all of sudden no picture on the TV. The media players are fine as is the TV since I can feed the HDMI signal directly into the TV and that works.

But on the 576 on any input which should be HDMI all that displays is DSP - no HDMI word illumininated. I presume by that it means the HDMI board has failed as per this thread. I am pretty sure HDMI showe on the display when that input was active. As an aside I even reset my 576 back to factory settings hoping that was the problem but it wasn't and now I have to redo all my settings

So rather than taking this unit to a shop and pay whatever they might want to charge, is it likely that replacing the 100uF caps on the HDMI board are likely to fix my problem? I think I am game to do that - not sure about adding a case fan etc. But if I can get this going again for the cost of a few caps and my time, I am game.

Thanks

Larry

Yes my failure appeared to be sudden since up till then I had been playing videos with no problem and had seen none of the problems described in this thread.

It is the third 576 post to this thread but since yours is a 576 that does add a bit of credence to the solution. Given the cost of a professional repair, I guess once I can work out how to extricate the 576 from the cabinet with its attendant spaghetti wiring at the back, I will give it a shot.