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Official Sharp Aquos LC-60E88UN Owner's Thread. - Page 49

post #1441 of 1526
8/28/11 at 10:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by biglen View Post

I have a Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH,and have an Xbox 360,Comcast DCX 3400,and a PS3 all connected to it through HDMI. When I had that connected to my older Panny 50" plasma, I would get the video dropouts when watching tv for about 3 seconds. It never happened with the 360 or the PS3. Now that I have everything connected to this TV using input 5, I get the video dropout, but it's only for 1 second and never happens with the 360 or PS3. I'm starting to think maybe my problem is the Comcast DCX 3400,since it never happens with the 360 or PS3.

Maybe it is the cable/sat box but I never had the problem with my old 46d64u sharp display and the same Dish 722 box. I believe it has happened on my blu-ray player also. Since the "failed" repair I have witnessed my set losing the picture one time though it was so quick I thought maybe it was the movie I had recorded and not the same issue. A quick rewind and play and it showed to be the picture loss issue.
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post #1442 of 1526
8/30/11 at 12:20am
Im getting sporadic drop outs too. I have a cisco DVR Videotron cable box, Samsung BD d5300 player and playstation 3...all connected through a Yamaha RX-V467 HDMI reciever which outputs out to my Aquos LC-60E88UN on HDMI 6.

Most of the time these drop outs last about 2 to 3 seconds where the picture blacks out and comes back, but some times it doesnt come back and Im forced to turn off/on the TV to get the picture back. Most of these black outs occur while watching cable tv allthough Ive seen the BD player act up as well. Playstation hasnt shown the same but that could be due to the fact that I havnt been playing much on it recently.

Wasnt sure what was causing this till I read that a few here were having the same issues and that mayby the TV was at fault.

I bought this tv at Futureshop and also got the instore extended 4 year plan and wondering what to do.
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post #1443 of 1526
8/30/11 at 7:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniels45 View Post

Im getting sporadic drop outs too. I have a cisco DVR Videotron cable box, Samsung BD d5300 player and playstation 3...all connected through a Yamaha RX-V467 HDMI reciever which outputs out to my Aquos LC-60E88UN on HDMI 6.

Most of the time these drop outs last about 2 to 3 seconds where the picture blacks out and comes back, but some times it doesnt come back and Im forced to turn off/on the TV to get the picture back. Most of these black outs occur while watching cable tv allthough Ive seen the BD player act up as well. Playstation hasnt shown the same but that could be due to the fact that I havnt been playing much on it recently.

Wasnt sure what was causing this till I read that a few here were having the same issues and that mayby the TV was at fault.

I bought this tv at Futureshop and also got the instore extended 4 year plan and wondering what to do.

With the extended warranty I'm not sure if you should call futureshop first. If you call Sharp this is the things they had me do -

1) Try turning off tv and reconnecting cables (I swapped around cables a few times no luck)
2) Check firmware (I'm on the latest version)
3) Change some video settings (this really is not needed but they ask for you to try it, write down your old settings before calling sharp)
4) Service mode RESET/INIT. They will ask you to go into the service menu (this requires unplugging the tv, holding two buttons on the side and plugging it back in which isn't the easiest thing to do) . Then after you get into service mode they will ask for some information and then have you do a init/reset. Make sure to write down any custom settings you had before doing this because they will go away.
5) Service visit, possible main board replacement. Again this will wipe all your settings so write them down beforehand for each input you use.

So far I don't think any of these things have worked though I only have had 1 or 2 quick video drop outs since the failed repair attempt. Currently discussing with Sharp my options.

My advice to anyone calling Sharp support is that they generally want to do the right thing so be patient and don't give up.
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post #1444 of 1526
9/11/11 at 6:52pm
Ok still have the 60e88un and so far the dropouts are few and far between but have some questions on two video settings unrelated to the video dropouts.

Film Mode - What setting do you like?
(I already know I can't stand Advanced High. I like to watch all kind of tv including action movies/sports)

Fine motion advanced - What do you use?
(I have this set to high but unsure what it really does and what to look for when I change it)

Digital Noise Reduction - What do you use?
(Currently set to off not sure what to look for when I set it)
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post #1445 of 1526
9/13/11 at 5:48pm
I've had my LC-60E88UN for 11 months and have been very happy with the picture quality.

However, the TV's terrible speakers and the lip sync issue (Comcast Motorola DCH-3416 box) have really been grating on my nerves. If there was any competing noise in the room, I would have to crank the set wayyyyy up just to hear clearly

Even though I can and do route the sound through my home theater system via the optical output on the cable box, I don't always want to turn on 5.1 sound just to channel surf or watch syndicated reruns on TBS.

This weekend, I was walking through BJ's Wholesale Club, and saw the Vizio VSB200 sound bar for about 10 bucks cheaper than elsewhere. I decided to give it a try.

I hooked up the sound bar to the LC-60E88UN (using the supplied standard RCA cables) and was VERY pleased with the improvement in the sound.

I checked the lip sync issue against a show on TBS, but the out of sync sound was still apparent. I then hooked up the sound bar to the cable box , and the lip sync problem is no longer a problem for me!

My URC WR7 remote learned the functions from the sound bar remote, and I added the sound bar to my remote's power-up/down macro.

I wish i had done this months ago!
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post #1446 of 1526
10/3/11 at 3:48pm
Same old Story!!! Had the HDMI drop outs for quite sometime until just the Side HDMI was the only one working, called Sharp, they send a tech out for service waited for a week for the appointment, Today the tech showed up and the "new" board didn't work..... now I have to wait another week and hope that the next one will work. will see... keep you posted.
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post #1447 of 1526
10/3/11 at 8:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppo View Post

Same old Story!!! Had the HDMI drop outs for quite sometime until just the Side HDMI was the only one working, called Sharp, they send a tech out for service waited for a week for the appointment, Today the tech showed up and the "new" board didn't work..... now I have to wait another week and hope that the next one will work. will see... keep you posted.

Good luck. If your patience is running out try politely letting Sharp know your disappointment with everything so far so its noted if the next repair is not satisfactory.
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post #1448 of 1526
10/6/11 at 11:36am
Hi, I have owned this set for about a year, love it, and am now at the point where I want to get it calibrated as well as reasonably possible on my own without the use of special equipment or spending hundreds on a professional calibration. I plan to purchase one of the HD calibration disks (Spears & Munsil, DVE or Disney WOW) and will be calibrating via a PS3.

I have searched this thread, as well as other threads on the forum related to PS3 settings for calibration, but have not found any posts that provide ideal PS3 video & display settings specific to the 60E88UN. Apologies if this information is out there and I missed it. I realize that there are tests you can do on your own to determine what your display can handle (RGB full vs. limited, Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr vs. RGB, superwhite on/off, etc.) but I am not experienced enough with the subtleties of calibration to determine which settings are appropriate for this particular set

If anyone could provide the 'correct' PS3 video & display settings to perform a proper calibration for the 60E88UN, it would be much appreciated!

I am connected via HDMI out from the PS3 into an Onkyo AV Receiver, and HDMI out from the receiver to the 60E88UN.

*Side note, is there any truth to what I've read about some HDMI inputs on the 60E88UN performing better than others? I don't do any gaming, PS3 is used exclusively for Blu-ray and streaming from the computer.

Thank you in advance
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post #1449 of 1526
10/12/11 at 6:52pm
Just thought I'd chime in Sharp after much troubleshooting and a few repair attempts replaced my TV with an 832un model. I just couldn't stand the signal loss any longer and it seemed to be happening much more regularly (sometimes 4-5 times in one day) and didn't want the TV to become inoperable after the warranty expired.

I thank everyone who posted in this thread, it's a great resource and helped a lot getting my 88un dialed in.

Update - The new 832 set has clouding noticeable during dark scenes and the image has a blurry/fuzzy look to it. I wish Sharp would have figured out a fix for the temp. signal loss on the 88un model.
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post #1450 of 1526
10/13/11 at 6:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by screedle View Post

Hi, I have owned this set for about a year, love it, and am now at the point where I want to get it calibrated as well as reasonably possible on my own without the use of special equipment or spending hundreds on a professional calibration. I plan to purchase one of the HD calibration disks (Spears & Munsil, DVE or Disney WOW) and will be calibrating via a PS3.

I have searched this thread, as well as other threads on the forum related to PS3 settings for calibration, but have not found any posts that provide ideal PS3 video & display settings specific to the 60E88UN. Apologies if this information is out there and I missed it. I realize that there are tests you can do on your own to determine what your display can handle (RGB full vs. limited, Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr vs. RGB, superwhite on/off, etc.) but I am not experienced enough with the subtleties of calibration to determine which settings are appropriate for this particular set

If anyone could provide the 'correct' PS3 video & display settings to perform a proper calibration for the 60E88UN, it would be much appreciated!

I am connected via HDMI out from the PS3 into an Onkyo AV Receiver, and HDMI out from the receiver to the 60E88UN.

*Side note, is there any truth to what I've read about some HDMI inputs on the 60E88UN performing better than others? I don't do any gaming, PS3 is used exclusively for Blu-ray and streaming from the computer.

Thank you in advance

I am using my PS3 through an Onkyo 706 to my 60E88UN. I calibrated with the DVE dvd. I get a fantastic picture. Here are my settings:

PS3:

Cross Color Filter- OFF
RGB Full Range- limited
Super White- OFF
Deep Color- Automatic

The TV:

OPC OFF
Backlight -8
Contrast +16
Brightness -2
Color 0
Tint 0
Sharpness -1

Advanced:
CMS Hue Yellow +4, Magenta +1
CMS Saturation Red -11, Yellow -17, Green -24, Cyan 0, Blue -20, Magenta -10
CMS Value Yellow +13, Magenta -1
Color Temp Mid-Low
Fine Motion Advanced HIGH
Active Contrast Off
Gamma 1 (initially set to 0, but prefer 1 now)
Film Mode Advanced (initially set to Standard, but prefer Advanced now)
DNR Off

Hope this helps. Enjoy!
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post #1451 of 1526
10/17/11 at 12:04pm
Purely anecdotal question for everyone:

For those of you with HDMI port failure disconnections, has one particular input been better or worse than another?

For me, HDMI Port #6 seems to drop the most.

Anyone had any luck with extended warranties getting it fixed? I assume that most of us on here have had our factory warranty expire by now.
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post #1452 of 1526
10/17/11 at 12:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyv2 View Post

Purely anecdotal question for everyone:

For those of you with HDMI port failure disconnections, has one particular input been better or worse than another?

For me, HDMI Port #6 seems to drop the most.

Anyone had any luck with extended warranties getting it fixed? I assume that most of us on here have had our factory warranty expire by now.

I noticed it most on HDMI port #5 but then again that is where I watched the most TV (dish 722).

I had a warranty repair (never did the extended warranty) through Sharp who send out a qualified tech who received a new main board for the TV that according to Sharp would fix the problem. I figured maybe Sharp did have a newer revision/modified board from the one I had in my set but what I noticed was the board Sharp sent appeared to be the same mode/revision as the one already in the set. The Tech did his job well but the board was bad so he ended up placing the old one back in. For awhile the TV had no issues with temporary video loss, then it happened once in awhile until it became anytime we watched it happened a few times usually.

I really liked the 88un but I could never get past the loss of video issue. I exchange my first 88un with the retailer for another one which seemed to have better video quality but still would lose video temporarily. I then went through many attempts of troubleshooting over the phone and then a repair attempt that didn't work out.

So now on to the 832u, hoping I can get one as good or better PQ as my 88un without the other issues.
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post #1453 of 1526
10/17/11 at 12:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyv2 View Post

Purely anecdotal question for everyone:

For those of you with HDMI port failure disconnections, has one particular input been better or worse than another?

For me, HDMI Port #6 seems to drop the most.

Anyone had any luck with extended warranties getting it fixed? I assume that most of us on here have had our factory warranty expire by now.

I was using port 8, and suffered occasional drops that lasted a few seconds. I switched to port 7 and haven't had a single drop.

However, I have always had an HDMI handshake issue. I have an Onkyo 706 receiver, a PS3, and a Comcast (Motorola DCT 3412) DVR. Sometimes I can turn on the receiver, then TV and get a signal to come through with the DVR immediately. Sometimes, however, the signal will not come through, and the receiver will say "no signal." This ONLY happens when the DVR signal is 1080i. I can switch to a 480 signal and the video comes through 99% of the time. It seems that once the TV and/or Receiver warms up, the 1080i signal will pass through. This usually only takes a couple minutes. It is very strange.

With the PS3, the results are similar. The 1080p signal does not pass at first. Usually the PS3 comes on so that I can hit my X button, causing the game to start, which is usually 720p. Once the 720p signal is sent, I get video. Sometimes, I have found that if I switch the receiver input from the video input to an audio only input (like CD, tuner, etc.), I can get the video to pass through. This doesn't start a new handshake it seems, as the receiver shows video immediately, whereas when I go back to the video input the receiver then makes the attempt to handshake.

Rarely, the receiver will latch on to the signal from the DVR or PS3, but the TV will show nothing. In these instances, I have some success cycling the TV off, then on.

I know everyone wants to blame the TV alone, but I was experiencing occasional handshake issues with my previous TV (a JVC 56FN97.) I think the receiver is partially to blame, but that the SHARP TV has exacerbated the problem.

Last night, I couldn't get a handshake with the PS3. I tried for about 20-30 minutes with no luck (FRUSTRATING!) I then decided to connect the PS3 directly to the TV, via Port 6. This worked immediately, and I ran an optical cable from the digital out to my receiver. Everything worked fine. About a half hour later, I decided to switch back to running the PS3 through the receiver, and it worked fine.

This really is a strange and frustrating issue. My TV is only 7 months old, so I have warranty time left. I plan on suffering through this until the warranty is nearly up. If they want to replace the TV then, fine. My only concern is whether or not I can demonstrate the problem for a tech adequately, since it sometimes works fine. I also am not 100% confident the set will work improperly if the receiver is removed from the equation. It's kind of like having a problem with your internet, and wondering if it is the actual PC, Modem or router causing the problem.

Is anyone else having issues just like mine?
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post #1454 of 1526
10/17/11 at 12:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lvtdude View Post

I was using port 8, and suffered occasional drops that lasted a few seconds. I switched to port 7 and haven't had a single drop.

However, I have always had an HDMI handshake issue. I have an Onkyo 706 receiver, a PS3, and a Comcast (Motorola DCT 3412) DVR. Sometimes I can turn on the receiver, then TV and get a signal to come through with the DVR immediately. Sometimes, however, the signal will not come through, and the receiver will say "no signal." This ONLY happens when the DVR signal is 1080i. I can switch to a 480 signal and the video comes through 99% of the time. It seems that once the TV and/or Receiver warms up, the 1080i signal will pass through. This usually only takes a couple minutes. It is very strange.

With the PS3, the results are similar. The 1080p signal does not pass at first. Usually the PS3 comes on so that I can hit my X button, causing the game to start, which is usually 720p. Once the 720p signal is sent, I get video. Sometimes, I have found that if I switch the receiver input from the video input to an audio only input (like CD, tuner, etc.), I can get the video to pass through. This doesn't start a new handshake it seems, as the receiver shows video immediately, whereas when I go back to the video input the receiver then makes the attempt to handshake.

Rarely, the receiver will latch on to the signal from the DVR or PS3, but the TV will show nothing. In these instances, I have some success cycling the TV off, then on.

I know everyone wants to blame the TV alone, but I was experiencing occasional handshake issues with my previous TV (a JVC 56FN97.) I think the receiver is partially to blame, but that the SHARP TV has exacerbated the problem.

Last night, I couldn't get a handshake with the PS3. I tried for about 20-30 minutes with no luck (FRUSTRATING!) I then decided to connect the PS3 directly to the TV, via Port 6. This worked immediately, and I ran an optical cable from the digital out to my receiver. Everything worked fine. About a half hour later, I decided to switch back to running the PS3 through the receiver, and it worked fine.

This really is a strange and frustrating issue. My TV is only 7 months old, so I have warranty time left. I plan on suffering through this until the warranty is nearly up. If they want to replace the TV then, fine. My only concern is whether or not I can demonstrate the problem for a tech adequately, since it sometimes works fine. I also am not 100% confident the set will work improperly if the receiver is removed from the equation. It's kind of like having a problem with your internet, and wondering if it is the actual PC, Modem or router causing the problem.

Is anyone else having issues just like mine?

I would say if you can try everything direct for a week or so and see if you have any handshake issues. If no issues I would suspect the receiver or the tv/receiver combination.
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post #1455 of 1526
10/17/11 at 1:28pm
Interesting. On mine, for example, the PS3 simply will not work on Port #8! Not at all, ever. Works perfectly on other ports (with or without dropouts). I do like the fact that it's repeatable 100%, because the tech will see that.

So far, I'm having the best luck on Port #7. That would be ideal if I just used a receiver and piped everything through there, but that's not the case. I sort of want it fixed perfectly so I can sell the TV some time with a clear conscience.
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post #1456 of 1526
10/18/11 at 3:10pm
Well - they're going to replace my system board. We'll see what happens!
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post #1457 of 1526
10/18/11 at 3:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyv2 View Post

Well - they're going to replace my system board. We'll see what happens!

I hope it works out for you and here's a tip if you have any custom settings for your inputs/tv write them all down because the new main board will be set to factory defaults.
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post #1458 of 1526
10/24/11 at 6:35am
I've memorized my settings - I don't configure much anyway, other than turning off every "option" possible and putting it into game mode. It's been a week, still no call to say the system board is in.

Has anyone on here actually gotten a new board and had it fix their dropout problems 100%?
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post #1459 of 1526
10/25/11 at 9:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyv2 View Post

I've memorized my settings - I don't configure much anyway, other than turning off every "option" possible and putting it into game mode. It's been a week, still no call to say the system board is in.

Has anyone on here actually gotten a new board and had it fix their dropout problems 100%?

Hope the board comes in soon and you can hopefully have a fix to your issue.

The 88un is one nice display using the CCFL technology and worth keeping around if Sharp can fix it. You know it's sorta funny that the clouding I am seeing on my 832u LED is considered "normal" by the manufacturer but if I had the same issue with the 88un Sharp would of probably considered it abnormal due to the difference in backlighting tech. Thankfully Sharp worked with me and hopefully the replacement will have no or very hard to see clouding during dark images.
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post #1460 of 1526
10/25/11 at 6:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyv2 View Post

I've memorized my settings - I don't configure much anyway, other than turning off every "option" possible and putting it into game mode. It's been a week, still no call to say the system board is in.

Has anyone on here actually gotten a new board and had it fix their dropout problems 100%?

I go from a receiver now (Onkyo TX-NR708) instead of directly from my Dish 722 and haven't had a drop out since.

Note: Same settings - game mode, every film, motion, noise setting set to off.
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post #1461 of 1526
10/25/11 at 6:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by neomaine View Post


I go from a receiver now (Onkyo TX-NR708) instead of directly from my Dish 722 and haven't had a drop out since.

Note: Same settings - game mode, every film, motion, noise setting set to off.

Do you mean video or Audio drop outs that are no longer happening?
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post #1462 of 1526
10/28/11 at 1:46pm
UPDATE: Finally got the second replacement Board about 2 weeks ago. So far every HDMI input is working fine. First board was dead on arrival. Let's hope that it stays like that.!!!
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post #1463 of 1526
10/31/11 at 11:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Briant73 View Post

Do you mean video or Audio drop outs that are no longer happening?

That's correct. For me, it was an all yellow screen (full drop) or getting a small 'hiccup' or pause in the video. It only happened on my Dish receiver.

I also had a Wii (component), xbox360 (hdmi), bluray player (hdmi) and WDTV Live (hdmi) hooked up directly. No issues from the other devices and the drops/pauses would follow the Dish connection regardless of the HDMI port used. Though, port 7 (or is it 5 ... I'd have to check) would show the issue much less.

Now that I go through my receiver for everything, no problems at all. Not to mention the sound is a million times better... (Just 3.0 for now, will hook up the sub for 3.1 this weekend and rear surrounds for 7.1 in another week or so.)
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post #1464 of 1526
10/31/11 at 1:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppo View Post

UPDATE: Finally got the second replacement Board about 2 weeks ago. So far every HDMI input is working fine. First board was dead on arrival. Let's hope that it stays like that.!!!


Good to hear, keep us posted after some more time has passed.
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post #1465 of 1526
11/1/11 at 12:03pm
The tech is coming with my new board tomorrow. Hope it fixes it! Side note: Anyone with a new board happen to notice if it fixed the out of sync audio in most modes through the TV's speakers?
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post #1466 of 1526
11/3/11 at 8:46am
Add me to the list of growing system board casualties! Tech came and replaced the board, but it didn't work. TV kept shutting itself off, and then eventually stopped turning on at all. They ordered another board, so there's another few weeks of waiting...
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post #1467 of 1526
11/3/11 at 9:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyv2 View Post

Add me to the list of growing system board casualties! Tech came and replaced the board, but it didn't work. TV kept shutting itself off, and then eventually stopped turning on at all. They ordered another board, so there's another few weeks of waiting...

That sucks but if you love everything else about your 88un give it another try because the 832u though a nice tv does not compare to the 88un for screen uniformity.
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post #1468 of 1526
11/3/11 at 11:13am
I don't think we're anywhere near the TV replacement stage yet, if at all. I really like my 88UN, but if you say that another TV has worse uniformity, then blah!
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post #1469 of 1526
11/3/11 at 11:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyv2 View Post

I don't think we're anywhere near the TV replacement stage yet, if at all. I really like my 88UN, but if you say that another TV has worse uniformity, then blah!

What I am saying is that Edge lit led displays can have some clouding and other issues that detract from dark/night scenes. Now other LCD displays have these issues but the difference now is that most manufacturers feel with edge lit it's acceptable where before they usually felt it was a defect.
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post #1470 of 1526
11/3/11 at 12:37pm
I know... it's too bad. My uniformity is actually pretty awesome when I massage the screen just right. That lasts for weeks until I have to do it again. That combined with specific screw tightness for the bezel does a great job. I've seen better on other Sharp TVs, but not by much.
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