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Official JTR Orbit Shifter Subwoofer Thread - Page 35

post #1021 of 1182
I am having a GTG in case anyone wans to hear dual OS's

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1493603/se-wisconsin-jtr-gtg-2013#post_23805655
post #1022 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post

I am having a GTG in case anyone wans to hear dual OS's

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1493603/se-wisconsin-jtr-gtg-2013#post_23805655
Why isn't there ever any SoCal gtg's frown.gif
post #1023 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

Why isn't there ever any SoCal gtg's frown.gif
surprising there aren't a lot of GTG's in that area. Just need someone to get it started!
post #1024 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

Why isn't there ever any SoCal gtg's frown.gif
If I ever finish my system, I will try to talk my wife into letting me have one.
post #1025 of 1182
Does anyone know if the Orbit Shifter is 2ohm or 4ohm?
post #1026 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Does anyone know if the Orbit Shifter is 2ohm or 4ohm?

Hi OSLFU is 2 ohm

Frequency +/-1db*
22-110hz (useful output below 10hz in room)
Sensitivity 97db, 1 meter, 1.41volts, 2 ohm
Useable Output** 133db
Amplifier
4000 watt RMS, 7200 watt burst
Dimensions
50×22.5″ x32″(HxWxD)
Weight 195lbs
Construction 15mm Baltic Birch, Void Free, Grade “BB”
post #1027 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Does anyone know if the Orbit Shifter is 2ohm or 4ohm?

OSLF is also 2ohm

But PRO Orbit Shifter is 8ohm or 4ohm or 2ohm

Frequency +/- 3db
37-121hz
Sensitivity*
103db (1 watt/ 1 meter, half space)
Useable Output
139db (Calculated peak 142db – 3db compression)
Recommended Amplification
up to 4000 watts RMS (program)
Impedance
8 ohm or 4 ohm or 2 ohm
Dimensions
45″x 22.5″x 32″ (HxWxD)
Weight
185lbs
Construction
15mm Baltic Birch, Void Free, Grade “BB”
post #1028 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZivkoF View Post

Hi OSLFU is 2 ohm

Frequency +/-1db*
22-110hz (useful output below 10hz in room)
Sensitivity 97db, 1 meter, 1.41volts, 2 ohm
Useable Output** 133db
Amplifier
4000 watt RMS, 7200 watt burst
Dimensions
50×22.5″ x32″(HxWxD)
Weight 195lbs
Construction 15mm Baltic Birch, Void Free, Grade “BB”

Thanks
post #1029 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

Are you meaning to say that for a given enclosure size there isn't a reason to go with a larger driver, or are you really saying that going over 15" drivers on any size enclosure is not just a bad thing to do but pointless thing to do?
There is a reason for a larger driver, that being higher displacement. With a given box size if you go with a larger driver to get more displacement you must reduce the length and/or mouth area and/or increase the throat area of the horn, which impacts low frequency extension and/or sensitivity. It's all a matter of compromise and what you want to accomplish. If that's maximum output with less extension then a larger driver is warranted. If that's maximum extension with less output then a smaller driver is warranted. My preference is the latter. I load my TableTuba with an eight or ten, because it allows a fourteen foot horn in a 10 cubic foot cab, and where HT needs are concerned it goes plenty loud enough.
post #1030 of 1182
Thread Starter 
The Orbit Shifter strikes a nice balance between extension and output at the expense of size/aesthetics. It is a big assed subwoofer.

But unlike virtually every other subwoofer I have owned including 2 Danley THSPUDS (with dual 8" drivers), the OS cannot be over driven by movie content at spirited listening levels. smile.gif
post #1031 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

The Orbit Shifter strikes a nice balance between extension and output at the expense of size/aesthetics. It is a big assed subwoofer.

But unlike virtually every other subwoofer I have owned including 2 Danley THSPUDS (with dual 8" drivers), the OS cannot be over driven by movie content at spirited listening levels. smile.gif

I wonder why a single driver can take 6000watts of power... it's pretty amazing
post #1032 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

There is a reason for a larger driver, that being higher displacement. With a given box size if you go with a larger driver to get more displacement you must reduce the length and/or mouth area and/or increase the throat area of the horn, which impacts low frequency extension and/or sensitivity. It's all a matter of compromise and what you want to accomplish. If that's maximum output with less extension then a larger driver is warranted. If that's maximum extension with less output then a smaller driver is warranted. My preference is the latter. I load my TableTuba with an eight or ten, because it allows a fourteen foot horn in a 10 cubic foot cab, and where HT needs are concerned it goes plenty loud enough.
That makes more sense then, that you are talking about compromises and not absolutes. I first read the post as an absolute, meaning that you meant there is absolutely no reason and/or gain by going with a larger driver and/or more power. Thanks for the clarification.
post #1033 of 1182
Moved my sub to another location. Out of the 3 different areas I can possibly get away with, this one was the best and even then it looks like I'm needing to get an eq or another sub or both. Any suggestions?

Oh, the location went from 9.5' at the front right corner of the room to now at 6.5' at the back left corner of the room. Those distances are how far away from the MLP. Also this was with audyssey on, including dynamic eq.

post #1034 of 1182
It's much easier to analyze if you cut the graph off at 100Hz or so for the purposes of subwoofers.
post #1035 of 1182
I guess it does make a difference which way the sub is facing. This is the same location with the same audyssey settings. The only difference between the two readings is the way the sub is facing. The sub is located in the back wall, left side corner using the MLP as reference position. The red line is with the sub facing to the right side wall and the green line is with the sub facing forward towards the front wall. I'm thinking the green line is the better of the two?

I'm hoping eq can fix my problem. Any comments to that?

post #1036 of 1182
The green line is a bit smoother. It would be pretty easy to smooth that out with a minidsp or similar. Just knock down those peaks a bit and try a bit of boost in the worst of the dips and see if they respond. If they don't respond to boosting they are likely nulls/cancellations and you might have to try a different location. With the mini you can also tweak the delay and see if that smooths things out at all. You are getting great extension for an OS though.
post #1037 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by subyguy View Post

The green line is a bit smoother. It would be pretty easy to smooth that out with a minidsp or similar. Just knock down those peaks a bit and try a bit of boost in the worst of the dips and see if they respond. If they don't respond to boosting they are likely nulls/cancellations and you might have to try a different location. With the mini you can also tweak the delay and see if that smooths things out at all. You are getting great extension for an OS though.
Unfortunately I have a heavy null around 75hz. I've tried my sub in three different spots and it just doesn't go away. As far sad so goes, which is the prefered? Minidsp, antimode, SMS or Behringer?
post #1038 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

Unfortunately I have a heavy null around 75hz. I've tried my sub in three different spots and it just doesn't go away. As far sad so goes, which is the prefered? Minidsp, antimode, SMS or Behringer?

I have been using my Open DRC AN from mini dsp since I got my two submersives and it has proven to be a gem
post #1039 of 1182
Dotjun, you could pull down those peaks with EQ, then run Audyssey and look much better.
post #1040 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Dotjun, you could pull down those peaks with EQ, then run Audyssey and look much better.
Yep that's the plan. I just haven't decided on which eq to get. Also, does it matter if you eq first then audyssey vs audyssey first then eq?
post #1041 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

Yep that's the plan. I just haven't decided on which eq to get. Also, does it matter if you eq first then audyssey vs audyssey first then eq?

I did it pre Audyssey
post #1042 of 1182
Linking Park...Recharged album. "Powerless" and "Castle of Glass". I can only imagine.
post #1043 of 1182
So this 70 or so hz dip I have is bugging me now. Best way to fix it is by adding another sub I take it? If so, I can't fit another OS into my living room so does anyone have a suggestion for a different and smaller sized sub that will hopefully match up with my OS?
post #1044 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

So this 70 or so hz dip I have is bugging me now. Best way to fix it is by adding another sub I take it? If so, I can't fit another OS into my living room so does anyone have a suggestion for a different and smaller sized sub that will hopefully match up with my OS?
A 70 Hz dip indicates a four foot distance from a boundary, either that of the sub or that of the measuring mic/LP:
http://www.padrick.net/LiveSound/CancellationMode.htm

You may move the sub or the LP, but that doesn't eliminate a boundary reflection, it just changes the distance to the boundary, and therefore the frequency of the cancellation. The cure is adding more subs with different placement, so that the cancellations introduced by each sub occur at different frequencies, and you end up with a large number of shallow dips, rather than a few major dips. Mixing different subs may work, but may not, as the lesser capable sub will limit the overall system.
post #1045 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

So this 70 or so hz dip I have is bugging me now. Best way to fix it is by adding another sub I take it? If so, I can't fit another OS into my living room so does anyone have a suggestion for a different and smaller sized sub that will hopefully match up with my OS?

If the subwoofer is facing you then try turning it sideways.
post #1046 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post

If the subwoofer is facing you then try turning it sideways.
I've tried it both ways. I posted a measurement earlier actually of my sub in the same spot but facing forward and then sideways into the room. The forward facing one was the better of the two. Any other suggestion?
post #1047 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

A 70 Hz dip indicates a four foot distance from a boundary, either that of the sub or that of the measuring mic/LP:
http://www.padrick.net/LiveSound/CancellationMode.htm

You may move the sub or the LP, but that doesn't eliminate a boundary reflection, it just changes the distance to the boundary, and therefore the frequency of the cancellation. The cure is adding more subs with different placement, so that the cancellations introduced by each sub occur at different frequencies, and you end up with a large number of shallow dips, rather than a few major dips. Mixing different subs may work, but may not, as the lesser capable sub will limit the overall system.
Thanks, I thought as much. Unfortunately I am limited in placement locations. Right now I have the os behind me to my left, on that back left corner which is about four feet away. The new sub will go in front of me to the right side corner, about eight feet away. Hopefully this will at least lessen, if not remove, my null problem.
post #1048 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post

I've tried it both ways. I posted a measurement earlier actually of my sub in the same spot but facing forward and then sideways into the room. The forward facing one was the better of the two. Any other suggestion?

Jon what are you X over at? I had that problem too when I x over 80 hz. Seem like a lag or something for me when bass from mains get transferred to sub 80 hz down. What I did was play with distance and phase. And it helped my dip from 65-70 hz a lot.
post #1049 of 1182
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post

Jon what are you X over at? I had that problem too when I x over 80 hz. Seem like a lag or something for me when bass from mains get transferred to sub 80 hz down. What I did was play with distance and phase. And it helped my dip from 65-70 hz a lot.
Crossed at the usual 80hz. I was told to leave the distance settings audyssey chooses alone. I don't have a way to flip the phase unless audyssey allows you to and I haven't found it.
post #1050 of 1182
^^ I don't have audyssey bro. But is there a way to go in manual mode to adjust the distance at least for the sub? There's gotta be a way.. I have MCACC and it lets me go in manually. And if you can at least write down what audyssey set the distance too. Before trying different settings. That way you can always go back to what it was. I'm not expert in calibration. But just researching a lot around this board made me try it out. And man, it really worked out for me.
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