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Official JTR Orbit Shifter Subwoofer Thread - Page 19

post #541 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post

Thanks Zivkof for the information, I don't have a great pic of it right now but it is the LFU version and you can see it in this shot taken form the main LP which is about 9.5 ft away from the horn opening. If I add another OS I will no co locate for two reasons. One, it would inhibit viewing a tiny bit from the couch that is right next to it because of the added height. The other reason is the placement now is giving a lot of gain between 20-35 hz ((10-15db) and my hope is by locating mid point along the opposite side wall that might even that out a bit So although the calculation says I should only gain 3bd if you factor in how much I currently have to cut the 20-30hz range I could end up with substantial gain if the placement is right.
Curious why will I get less consumption from the wall with two OS's running vs 1?

Thanks Ibrown105 for the great pic, yes I can see the horn opening, every time you double the power is +3dB in SPL so with two of OS LFU (+6dB) to achieve the same SPL as with one you need twice less of the power! The real result of how much you will gain with the second one is to take measurements at LP and then to move the second one to best spot place or relocate the first one. I could not find the information on OS LFU how big is the horn opening (wide x high) at JTR site if you could do that measurements. Thanks.
post #542 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZivkoF View Post

Thanks Ibrown105 for the great pic, yes I can see the horn opening, every time you double the power is +3dB in SPL so with two of OS LFU (+6dB) to achieve the same SPL as with one you need twice less of the power! The real result of how much you will gain with the second one is to take measurements at LP and then to move the second one to best spot place or relocate the first one. I could not find the information on OS LFU how big is the horn opening (wide x high) at JTR site if you could do that measurements. Thanks.

yeah i see what you mean at the same spl less draw because I have doubled the driver area too. In the end I will end up driving them both very hard but I know from another member they had no trouble with a single dedicated 20amp circuit for two OS's. The horn opening is 48.25cm wide by 50.75cm tall.

I have done quite a few REW measuremnets in my room and my guess is by keeping one corner loaded (as is now) and having another opposite mid wall may produce the best result but we'll see. Truth is right now I am waiting on my new neosis LCR and it could be quite a while before I add another OS. The other subs I have now do a good job at leveling out the room even though the are considerably less powerful.

Are your main speakers all horn design too? I thought I saw sme pics from you on another thread.
post #543 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post

yeah i see what you mean at the same spl less draw because I have doubled the driver area too. In the end I will end up driving them both very hard but I know from another member they had no trouble with a single dedicated 20amp circuit for two OS's. The horn opening is 48.25cm wide by 50.75cm tall.
I have done quite a few REW measuremnets in my room and my guess is by keeping one corner loaded (as is now) and having another opposite mid wall may produce the best result but we'll see. Truth is right now I am waiting on my new neosis LCR and it could be quite a while before I add another OS. The other subs I have now do a good job at leveling out the room even though the are considerably less powerful.
Are your main speakers all horn design too? I thought I saw sme pics from you on another thread.

Yes the main speakers are all the horn design too. Thanks for horn opening datas which are close to my horn opening TH design 54.40cm wide by 48.20cm tall (2622.08cm2) vs (2448.69cm2 OS LFU).



post #544 of 632
Just received an Orbit Shifter and was wondering for those who have them what your gain is set to? also what your receiver is set at? I am just curious because the sub is so efficient i have it at like 18 and -5.5 on the receiver. Pretty powerful sub thanks guys.
post #545 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by sendtobrit View Post

Just received an Orbit Shifter and was wondering for those who have them what your gain is set to? also what your receiver is set at? I am just curious because the sub is so efficient i have it at like 18 and -5.5 on the receiver. Pretty powerful sub thanks guys.

so many things come into play but running with my JTR12's with 800 wpc and having the sub about 6-8dB hot I run mine 5 click back from full on and my receiver is about -6 to -8 on the sub trim. Mine is pretty close to fully corner loaded and in my room i eq with PEQ and have to cut the 20-30hz region also by approx 10dB to get a decent house curve which is still upward sloping from 80hz all the way to 30hz the flat down to about 15hz.. With all of this at the LP (9-10 ft from horn opening) with these setting I routnely hit about 118-120dB, and that is without ever coming close to the clipping lights turning red. I have found room gain means a lot with these subs at these frequencies

You can get more SPL if you load the opening with an adjacent wall which in effect makes a larger horn to some extent. Mine is near a corner but the opening goes straight into the middle of the room (ULF version)
post #546 of 632
Cool good to know! I have my opening facing a corner and it seems to do pretty well. The curve has a big peak around 25hz, but if i do Audyssey it goes away and is fairly flat. i have done an A B comparison with Audyssey on then off to hear the difference and it definitely is different it seems like the Audyssey is lower volume while with it off it's louder. I'm sure it's cleaner with Audyssey engaged and the curve is much flatter but maybe flatter isn't always better! Regardless the sub is a beast and yes i have the LFU too.
post #547 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by sendtobrit View Post

Cool good to know! I have my opening facing a corner and it seems to do pretty well. The curve has a big peak around 25hz, but if i do Audyssey it goes away and is fairly flat. i have done an A B comparison with Audyssey on then off to hear the difference and it definitely is different it seems like the Audyssey is lower volume while with it off it's louder. I'm sure it's cleaner with Audyssey engaged and the curve is much flatter but maybe flatter isn't always better! Regardless the sub is a beast and yes i have the LFU too.

If you turn on Dynamic EQ, you will get a pretty good boost at the low end...sort of like a house curve. I like that better than a flat curve smile.gif
Oh, and my trim is about -1, but I am like -13 or -14 on the actual sub.
post #548 of 632
cool i will try that out!
post #549 of 632
Thread Starter 
Not to offend anyone but the bar has just been raised way way up when it comes to a Home Theater with the Orbit Shifter doing LFE duty. Take a look at this amazing looking (and sounding) theater. cool.gifcool.gifcool.gif
post #550 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Not to offend anyone but the bar has just been raised way way up when it comes to a Home Theater with the Orbit Shifter doing LFE duty. Take a look at this amazing looking (and sounding) theater. cool.gifcool.gifcool.gif
it really is cool looking. With some of the best HT equipment around, and great room construction/set up it must sound pretty amazing.
post #551 of 632
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post

it really is cool looking. With some of the best HT equipment around, and great room construction/set up it must sound pretty amazing.

Yes, the components are outstanding and it is very clean looking but more importantly it was properly engineered and built to optomize AV quality. It is great to see style but with some real substance.

Vic is planning on adding a second OS and I have a pretty good idea how that will sound ... smile.gif
Edited by RMK! - 3/15/13 at 11:06am
post #552 of 632
Man I'd almost be worried what dual OS's could do to a sealed room of that size!
post #553 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Man I'd almost be worried what dual OS's could do to a sealed room of that size!

RMK's dual OS gave me a cold sweat when he turned the volume up to +10...
post #554 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Yes, the components are outstanding and it is very clean looking but more importantly it was properly engineered and built to optomize AV quality. It is great to see style but with some real substance.

Vic is planning on adding a second OS and I have a pretty good idea how that will sound ... smile.gif
a room like that is really something to strive for. I am considering adding a second OS in the adjacent room and have the port vent into the room below the equipment rack. Need to make sure it won't affect the disk player though. If I do it, it couldn't be another LFU (just due to the way it would have to line up to come out, the LFU would run into the furnace) it would need to be the version you have where the port comes straight out the end.. I don't think that would matter at all though.
Edited by lbrown105 - 3/15/13 at 8:51pm
post #555 of 632
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

RMK's dual OS gave me a cold sweat when he turned the volume up to +10...

Hi Luke,

Yeah, that was fun biggrin.gif . It is awesome when you feel the sound as much as hear it (and I know you know that wink.gif).

BTW, I've been following your Dual GJALLARHORN build Thread and it is looking very good. Good hobby for those cold Minn winters eh? What are you going to use for DSP?
post #556 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Hi Luke,

Yeah, that was fun biggrin.gif . It is awesome when you feel the sound as much as hear it (and I know you know that wink.gif).

BTW, I've been following your Dual GJALLARHORN build Thread and it is looking very good. Good hobby for those cold Minn winters eh? What are you going to use for DSP?

Yeah, and my garage isn't heated either, so it's been pretty cold while working on this thing.

I have a balanced MiniDSP, and it has served me pretty well so far.
post #557 of 632
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Yeah, and my garage isn't heated either, so it's been pretty cold while working on this thing.

I have a balanced MiniDSP, and it has served me pretty well so far.

Hopefully you have space heaters to prevent hypothermia and, allow the glue to dry. smile.gif
post #558 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Hopefully you have space heaters to prevent hypothermia and, allow the glue to dry. smile.gif

Ha!

No space heaters, but luckily I'm only in the garage when I'm using a saw. The subs are being assembled in my basement.
post #559 of 632
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Ha!

No space heaters, but luckily I'm only in the garage when I'm using a saw. The subs are being assembled in my basement.

Power saws and numb fingers ... bad combo eek.gif
post #560 of 632
I am curious. Do the Orbit Shifters have detachable power chords? If so, has anyone experimented with the so-called "magic power chords?" Which for what it's worth, I personally believe there are sonic benefits to be had with upgraded power chords.
post #561 of 632
Orbit shifters use a speakon type connector for power, you cannot easily swap power cords, nor would there be any difference. The speakon style power connector is very likely better than the typical 14awg wiring done behind your drywall from the junction box. The last six foot of wire will make no audible difference if it is the same or larger gauge than the wire that proceeds it.
post #562 of 632
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by siriusproper View Post

I am curious. Do the Orbit Shifters have detachable power chords? If so, has anyone experimented with the so-called "magic power chords?" Which for what it's worth, I personally believe there are sonic benefits to be had with upgraded power chords.

Archaea got it right. The Orbit Shifters ship with a Powercon connector and the connector is very secure and the wire gauge more than adequate. I had a high end hifi dealer A/B a $500 power chord to me once a while back and despite his very impassioned claims to the contrary, there was no discernible (or I'm sure measurable) difference between that connector and the power chord that came with my amp.

That said, I'm fine with your belief in the positive differences in upgraded power chords as long as they are US made as it is good for the economy. smile.gif
post #563 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by siriusproper View Post

has anyone experimented with the so-called "magic power chords?" Which for what it's worth, I personally believe there are sonic benefits to be had with upgraded power chords.
There would be a monetary benefit if you were to prove that there's any sonic benefit to anything more expensive than a basic power cord, because you'll have proven the existence of magic:
http://skepdic.com/randi.html

Of course, this begs the question why, if there are magic power cords, one of their manufacturers hasn't already claimed the million. rolleyes.gif

But as for true power chords, their value has been proven by a legion of guitar players, starting with Hendrix. biggrin.gif
post #564 of 632
Really had not paid much attention to the subject and have not to date spent any money on 'em. I was/am researching D-Sonic as a potential power source for Noesis 212 HT, and came across this review http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/dsonic/1.html. Made me wonder if anyone has done a swap out for the power chord on the OS plate amp. I also read while researching the new Hypex Ncore 1200 the tester seemed to hear a difference in at least one review that the amp was sensitive to power chord changes.

But what do I know. I still own SVS, and Emotiva. smile.gif
post #565 of 632
Well thanks....tough crowd biggrin.gif
post #566 of 632
I am looking for any information or links to threads that help educate on the best set up options for horn and sealed sub combos. I currently use the BFD 1124P and REW which is very helpful, butI got a hold of a brand new DCX2496 for very cheap so I thought I would give it a try. I know it has more flexibility and thought there may be some advatnage with all the options especially for my set up which has 3 sealed subs and one horn sub (of course the OS which is why I am positing here). Any help is appreciated. Specifically are there specific crossovers that are better suited to certain designs?
post #567 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post

I am looking for any information or links to threads that help educate on the best set up options for horn and sealed sub combos. I currently use the BFD 1124P and REW which is very helpful, butI got a hold of a brand new DCX2496 for very cheap so I thought I would give it a try. I know it has more flexibility and thought there may be some advatnage with all the options especially for my set up which has 3 sealed subs and one horn sub (of course the OS which is why I am positing here). Any help is appreciated. Specifically are there specific crossovers that are better suited to certain designs?

I'm running a single OS with twin sealed 15's as you may have seen. I have my OS high passed at around 25Hz and then the sealed take over below that using a minidsp. I had no issues at all integrating the two designs as long as I stayed above where the OS started to drop off naturally. I could corner load the horn to get way more extension but I found I had a smoother response at the midpoint of my wall and since I had the sealed to cover the bottom I was happy to give up some low end on the horn to get rid of some ugliness up higher. All I did was tweak the phase a bit to eliminate some cancelling at the crossover and the rest was a breeze. I could even overlap the crossovers and create a massive hump if I wanted without any ill effects. I think posted screen shots of my dsp setting at one point. I'm currently on the waiting list for two uxl 18's because i do run out of steam with the 15's if I really boost them and we're moving to a house with a way bigger theater space so I will need the extra output. With the uxl's I may be able to raise the crossover on the OS slightly to keep it happy at super high levels as well...depends on how the room ends up but it is 18X50X9 so it's a big space.
post #568 of 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by subyguy View Post

I'm running a single OS with twin sealed 15's as you may have seen. I have my OS high passed at around 25Hz and then the sealed take over below that using a minidsp. I had no issues at all integrating the two designs as long as I stayed above where the OS started to drop off naturally. I could corner load the horn to get way more extension but I found I had a smoother response at the midpoint of my wall and since I had the sealed to cover the bottom I was happy to give up some low end on the horn to get rid of some ugliness up higher. All I did was tweak the phase a bit to eliminate some cancelling at the crossover and the rest was a breeze. I could even overlap the crossovers and create a massive hump if I wanted without any ill effects. I think posted screen shots of my dsp setting at one point. I'm currently on the waiting list for two uxl 18's because i do run out of steam with the 15's if I really boost them and we're moving to a house with a way bigger theater space so I will need the extra output. With the uxl's I may be able to raise the crossover on the OS slightly to keep it happy at super high levels as well...depends on how the room ends up but it is 18X50X9 so it's a big space.

sounds like a good solution. I am trying to see what i can do to get the OS mid wall too as I have a huge peak in most places in the theater at about 32hz. I like your strategy now I just have to logistically make it work. thanks for the input.
post #569 of 632
Well I checked most places possible within 30 ft and it turns out the corner it is in is best. still couldn't check the back corner buT will probably get another OS or S1 and call it a day and get enough cord to place the rear corner with the new sub if it turns out to be an advantage.
post #570 of 632
Does anyone know the best way to get a hold of someone at JTR? I seem to be having issues doing so.
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