list of solid 5' x 12' materials for paint or laminate

Your assuming that many will be able to find a Local Plywood Distributor, or in the least a Retail store willing to special order these out-sized sheets. While a few have had some success, it's not so many as to be a good thing to encourage others to try to follow suit...or at least to get their hopes up..

After some consideration, I would like to keep this topic focused on solid 5'x12' materials only, as opposed to building frames. Please post any materials that you find, with links to manufacturers and retailers if possible. We can discuss the pros/cons of the material and compile our findings into a single post, with benefits/drawbacks such as availability, weight, strength, durability, cost, etc.

I'll kick things off with these findings and will refine the list as we discuss pros/cons and other details:

Plywood Company of Forth Worth
5x12 [Search Results]
http://www.plywoodcompany.com/applic...?keywords=5x12

1/8" x 61" x 145" MDF - $22.80 < wow, would this thing break easily?
http://www.plywoodcompany.com/applic...88&itemid=2408

Yes....VERY easily. warp and get wavy too.

1/4" x 61" x 145" MDF - $33.00 < maybe a solid contender
http://www.plywoodcompany.com/applic...88&itemid=2409

Like almost everything on this list, this material will need priming on BOTH sides and to be attached to the Wall with screws all around the perimeter or it too will not continue to "lie flat" over time.

3/4" x 61" x 145" MDF [2 variants] - $54.00 / $59.40 < HEAVY!
http://www.plywoodcompany.com/applic...=88&itemid=304
http://www.plywoodcompany.com/applic...90&itemid=1734

Currrazy heavy. Not to be considered a viable option by most Mortal men.

11/16" x 61" x 145" Particle Board - $46.20 < is there any reason to consider particle board?
http://www.plywoodcompany.com/applic...03&itemid=4768

Yes. It's ridiculously heavy and will absorb paint...moisture...and eventually the painted surface will degrade

1 1/6" x 61" x 145" Particle Board - $86.40 < is there any reason to consider particle board? ALSO HEAVY!
http://www.plywoodcompany.com/applic...84&itemid=2338

All the same just with more emphasis on HEAVY

What is really the absolute best choice for a unframed material? ...Gatorboard.

It comes in 5' x 10' sheets from most ANY Plastic Sheeting supplier at a approx cost of $90.00.(3/16") It's available in 3/16" up to 1/2" and is rigid enough to hang straight. It's surface needs NO priming...and is specifically designed to directly accept Latex or Oil paints. It comes in a bright White (...some say it works Ok as is...) and Black (...interesting...)

Also, 54" x 10' or 12' Drywall would be preferable to any 1/2" or thicker MDF/Particle Board. That too would have to come from a Drywall Supply (not HD or Lowes) but it is CHEAP...and if you goof....not something to whine to loudly about having to replace.

Certainly, of all the aforementioned wood Products, the 1/4" MDF sheet is the best choice. Minimum necessary weight...hand picked it will be pretty smooth and defect free.

[quote=GrandPixel;18577399]It does not have to be plywood or MDF, or any type of wood. It can be plastic or aluminum or foam, or any solid flat 5'x12' material. The examples I gave happen to be MDF and particle board from a dealer in Texas (I do not live near Texas). That is why we need to mention all findings and evaluate benefits/drawbacks, including availability (Can it be ordered at Home Depot or Lowes? If not, is there a distributor with inexpensive shipping? < I know not likely on a large item, but possible.)

Unless it's delivered by a local business, shipping is pretty much out of the question as such would require that a single sheet be shipped "Flat" on a 300 lb, 11' x 5.5' Pallet. I know....Big Arse 5' & 6' x 10' Mirrors were the same way. I had to order at least 8 peices to make that Pallet business cost effective. It was...and still is a bummer.


Would MDF really warp? Perhaps at 1/8" thickness.

That's why I said that.....


I can't see how a sheet of MDF that is hanging on a wall or from the ceiling would warp or bend over time, but it is possible and priming is probably a good idea with MDF to keep moisture out. Can you provide examples to show us that MDF will warp and bend?


Not really easy to do since I never let that happen. It's a case where you (...and anyone else considering such...) needs to take the word of those who have experience with such things. I'd use MDF in a pinch...but only because I WAS in a pinch. All that priming...and still one should attach the sheet at all corners and sides to prevent the preventable.


Also, if you screw it to the wall, you should assume that the wall is perfectly flat (many are not), otherwise your screen will not stay flat.

Naw.....it's not gonna be a issue unless one has a terrible, wavy wall. Even something with a 1/2" variance needs only "Shimming" and even then having only a 1/2" Gap somewhere is pretty minor. In most cases the difference will be even less than 1/4". Really not a issue or consideration.


Yes it would be 150-200 lbs probably. Two men should be able to handle this. Just make sure your mounting solution is strong (should be easy enough).

My experience is that it's just too much overkill, and your statements about needing two Men...well I'll say this....just try it! You'd have to hold it up...nice and level...with one hand and drill in screws with another.

Really though...one could use a 1" x 4" support ledge across the bottom to accept the MDF's weight while holding it against the wall with one hand and screwing it on with another. Mounting really isn't the issue...the logistics of getting it home...perhaps up a flight of stairs.. ..all that is a recipe for mashed fingers...toes...scraped walls and door frames....

If it don't bend...it's not your Friend.

Agreed, but we are not talking about only paintable surfaces. I personally plan to use Wilson Art Designer White laminate and not paint anything. But, if MDF and other materials are available, I don't think particle board is a good option. Opinions otherwise?

Many do settle for WA-DW but few contemplate using it without a decent Frame. be advised that WA-DW is not much else than a white surface...and one that really is NOT very forgiving of mar marks, defects, it chips easily...does NOT clean dependably....it simply sucks lemons except under ideal circumstances. (1080p res. 60K+ "NATIVE" contrast Mid-Lumen Pjs and good light control.) All that seems to make people fall back into the Stone Age when Home Theaters HAD to be veritable Caves with NO lights on whatsoever less the image suffer. I'd paint WA-DW in a heartbeat though because it is after all a very good, bright white, smooth surface.

Personally (..and I only say this sort of thing very infrequently...) since I make BIG Screens quite often...and they must represent the highest level of accomplishment I can muster, I don't scrimp on substrates. I'm no fan of having to go to the expense and effort just to build a supportive frame for a material just to be able to use it effectively. I don't like having to worry about the surface being perfect before...during...and after installation. Lord knows having it be perfect at the end is enough to worry about!

"GatorFoam"
This could be a good solution for painting. Would it hold flat with laminate attached (laminate comes in a roll)? I think it could be braced on the back-side, probably with aluminum as wood may not be completely straight. Also, can it be purchased in 5'x12' sheets?

Special ordered...yes, but that would be a case where using WA-DW would make better sense because the supportive plate/frame will be needed no matter what. See...there are times I can be open-minded.

But don't press it !



Another possible solution. Again, could be braced to stay flat when attaching laminate. 5'x12'?

Yes...Drywall won't warp...although it can buckle if soaked. But soaking a screen seems a bit extreme even for Noobs. But I guess all that is certain is that it hasn't happened....yet.


I agree. But I also agree that a wood product may not work as well as a synthetic material. Also some materials may work better for painting, and some better for mounting laminate - and there may be a material that is ideal for both. MississippiMan knows much about the painting aspect of all this. I would like to also find something that is ideal for mounting laminate. Please post if you know of any 5'x12' plastics or aluminum (or any other material).

Really, assembling a composite backing of rigid but lightweight material onto a supportive frame is the best overall solution because any material available in 12' lengths and 5' widths will cost as much or more as any laminate.

Don't get stuck on WA-DW as being the best solution. If it was...I'd be a staunch advocate of it's use for sure!

I'll admit I've become a bit infatuated with GatorFoam board as of late, but that's because it fits so many Gloves. I myself have not advocated using it as is...but then again...i really haven't tried it that way. I almost always need something ideally suited for performance in Ambient Light as well as in the Dark. But the surface of GatorFoam is VERY white, very opaque (..at least as much as Laminate...) and it cleans off like nobody's business.

I'm just sayin'

It's not "ruled out", just "advised" due to many ...not one or two considerations. Leastwise at the size and thicknesses prescribed.


Well, you see laminates that are made to be such a Flat, matte White surface have always shown blemishes, scuffs, and yes...absorbed stains. WA-DW not excluded. The laminate Thread is long...but I've followed it from the beginning.

In circumstances where I needed a larger than usual smooth white surface to receive a painted coating, as well as without paint...I've used WA-DW myself...about 4 times total, and found it capable, but too limited in use for the build-cost-performance ratio. It took no stretch to realize the need for care in mounting....gluing...in drilling...even in transporting/handling and cleaning. And a good many people have posted about all of that....discussions have been engaged in...hey, it's all there. I know a good bit of it all ...but I can understand if you don't. There's a lot to absorb, and sometimes I'm guilty of just doling out too abruptly.

So much can happen, go wrong, or already be wrong. But that is not to say it's "always" wrong. For those who were looking for a Scope Screen build with a radius curved frame, it was about as ideal a surface as could be asked for. And well worth the "known" issues.

The use of WA-DW has been around for sometime. MUCH longer actually. It's biggest Fans were/still are those who are using ultra high contrast PJs (CRTs) that have lower lumen levels. And curved Scope Screens. That combination also speaks of the need to keep the lights way down, if not off.

Digital PJs using Anamorphic lenses -and- curved screens, another more recent group (3-4 yrs old) who have used it quite frequently.

Those with dedicated Theaters and PJ ranging from low budget LCDs to 15$K plus 3 chip DLPs have used it.....Flat and framed...but why? Because it was among the best...and it's the only other "No Paint" solution save Black Out Cloth (BOC), that could offer up a size beyond 130" diagonal in 16:9

Please understand I have helped many Members make & use WA-DW screens, both Framed and "Direct to the Wall" mounted. I do in fact have both the personal experience and also the collective knowledge of having read the Laminate threads for 5+ years, so I'm not making any "claims" but rather I'm telling you facts...both the warty ones and the silk purse variety.

Recently, the advent of HighLumen Output / High Contrast PJs reintroduces a already well known trait of WA-DW. Reflectivity almost to excess. My people were/have been steered away from WA-DW because their PJs were just too bright.

Higher lumen PJs...digitals with 1500+ lumens, find that they must out of necessity run on Low Lamp with WA-DW lest the image dynamics suffer. "Hot spotting" isn't the correct description, more like "washing contrast out". Crazily enough, I've read accounts just recently that a BOC screen (.85 gain) actually was adjudged to have superior overall performance when hit by a Epson 9500ub on High Lamp (calibrated) than a Stewart ST130 (1.3 gain) getting hit by the same PJ on Low Lamp (calibrated) I found it hard to believe until I reasoned out why. Under those circumstances, one screen had the advantage.




I never said it would "only" work under ideal conditions...just that it needs such "ideal circumstances" to work at it's best. Few who use it would beg to differ...it's not what anyone would call "flexible' in it's use.

So what's "less than ideal"?

*White reflective screen in darkened room with Light colored walls and ceiling. Not good. Screen will recapture it's own reflection. Image will suffer 'washing out".

*Lower Lumen PJ...Big screen, and the presence of any artifical or natural lighting at or above very low ambient levels. Not good. Image will suffer 'washing out".

*Almost any PJ on Normal Lamp, dark colored wall & ceiling, moderate ambient light/low direct light. Not good. Image will suffer 'washing out".

Basically, and I'll admit this freely, my chief issue is that it's White. And white belongs in the Dark, with Dark surroundings, and the recipient of an image where contrast will not be compromised by outside (off the screen) influences. I personally see the future of Projection as being far more multifaceted than only for Dedicated Theater applications, and the DIY solutions having been found for "less than ideal" circumstances would seem to offer both a wider ispread of problem solving ability, as well as better overall performance. Those attributes also make even more of a case for the use of such attributes in the Dark.

But all of that is directed at an application that I did not mean nor intend to disparage. Just advise, and point out considerations to be...considered. Perhaps...if not indeed a bit too adamantly.


All are well known, and have been made known to a great many via a great many postings by a lot of people. Along with a lot of good things to say as well. Once again, please excuse me for drawing upon the reservoir of experience, and holding it up against yet more varied examples. That what I do.


Same thing. I say what I do because I've been there, done that...and have read many corresponding tales of the same over the last 8 years+. Thin MDF will not warp as quickly as will particle board absorb moisture and buckle (rise) at the surface....unless you prime/paint only one side under which case it will...as it dries... bow outward so quick you'll want to cry. Unsupported, such a Board will treat any application of a sealed surface the exact same way...in reverse. The unsealed side will absorb moisture and bow out.

My goodness...1/4" would be bad enough...but 1/8" MDF as a "sheet" would be very susceptible to warp-age and bowing even unpainted after and degree of time hanging vertically. How much would depend upon different factors present. Times might vary widely.

Certainly thicker material will resist warp-age (bowing...all the same) far longer but then that weight issue comes roaring back big time.

BTW, you might make note I advocate the use of 3.25" x 3/8" MDF base Board Trim for use as Screen Trim when wrapped in Black Velvet. But in the end, that MDF is thoroughly nailed into place around the Screen's perimeter. I wouldn't want to walk through a House that got so damp inside that nailed-in-place MDF started to swell, bow, and pull off.



You need to read the Title again, as well as your first paragraph.

Let me assist;


Ooops. I'm just sayin.......

I responded in kind, and pointed out what I know to be potential issues. I did dump some pain on WA-DW, (...and hence what I've come to see as being your preferred choice...) and waxed a bit vitriolic on my strong points because I hate to see anyone go down a wrong, mistaken, or otherwise ill-advised path. I was coming back to write about being apologetic over having led the thread astray by commenting so pointedly about WA-DW. But now....it seems to be the Wind is blowing a different direction altogether.


If that was the sole intent of your Thread, what's the big idea of leading me on !!!!!! The nerve!

Ya know I'm kidding there...right?

Ok...really, I see now where you actual interests lay. And if I'd seen that, I'd of simply been advising you of the logistics of backing the WA-DW like I've done many others....successfully. And that would be that the only rigid material I have ever come across (...and I've looked widely...) that fits your bill would be 1/2" Laminated "Waffle Foam Core" Aluminum panels. Laminators Inc. (.com) Same panels they use to trim the outside of High Rise buildings with. A 12' x 5' sheet...in a variety of Baked on Colors and Brushed Metal finishes...would cost $490.00 before you sell you child for the shipping costs.

Maybe more. It's not a "In The Supply Chain" sort of item.

As I said before....I looked...for similar and wholly different reasons. If your thread conjures up something viable, now I'll admit it would be a very desirable find for many to consider if widely distributed and affordable.

But I'm still probably a'gonna squirt all over it iffin' ya do.

[quote]Not sure what you are saying here.[quote]

Hopefully now you do.


Consider your own words. "One of the best' does not mean "The Best" so my saying WA-DW is not "The Best" would be correct under those guidelines. I don't think you can actually quote me as saying that though....nor that I ever said it would work only under ideal circumstances, ....or that it could not be cleaned....it can...but only with the right stuff...yet even then it must be done with some degree of care because it's not being used as a Counter Top anymore, but a Projection Screen surface that is supposed to be as flawless as it possibly be.

Even a faint smudge can become a thing of torment on a otherwise splendid image. Especially if it cannot be removed.


I've laid it all out pretty much. And from what "you have read", you've been duly impressed. but a close...through read tells the whole story, and that is where I'm coming from. a place you've yet to visit. It's a long a winding path...a lot of hours spent staring at small words. And Brother...that's just one thread. I've read and participated in hundreds, and I can and do correlate all the things I've read, learned, done, and experienced and use that knowledge to help me draft my own posts.

Not to say I'm always spot on correct...or even 'spotty', but some few things I do know much about, and building screens in the best manner possible using the best materials (...as in practically...) is something i literally live and breathe most days. It's not a hobby. Sometimes I do try to foster off a bit of my own enthusiasm to a Noob to get 'em pumped and excited. But always for that singular good reason, and few will ever, or could ever say that helping someone acomplishing such at a DIY'ers price point without making any compromises isn't paramount to my personal idea of what I can offer as help to any who are willing or needful of such.


Of let's not go there again! I know that now.
If you decide to consider making a composite supporting Substrate, and pretty inexpensively too, I have just the ticket. Otherwise, and beyond the Laminated Aluminum, I'm afraid little exist that meets the needed criteria.


Well I'm probably more in need of worrying about what your thinking/feeling than you are of me. I don't make Brownie Points by being the anti-thesis of someone's hopes and dreams. I always try to help...not hinder. Sometimes when one has to explain themselves, things can get way out of whack...and far off topic. Usually when there is a misunderstanding that goes unchecked.

You don't know me that well, perhaps at most on a level more commensurate to how much you've read on the DIY Forum. You cannot know the extent of all my Screen involvements, on & off the Forum, and so I should not...nor do I take offense in your asking me why I feel or say the things I do.

On the other hand, I failed to fathom the real intent of your thread or how it was directed at your finding (...and helping others to find as well...) viable materials to back 12' wide screens. Nope. I focused on what might make a screen look better...or worse than expected...and to me, using any of the materials listed carries more concerns and considerations (ie: risks) at those extreme sizes than the worth of the material itself.

So in that I apologize. I'll be glad to strike my posts to whatever extent you let me know via PM so your thread can be re-dedicated to it's purpose. and my offer to provide you with a diagram of how to assemble a 3/8" thick x 12.2' x 62" Hardboard Backer Board for the WA-DW (...for about $60.00...) will always stand.

MMan

Don't beat yourself up....I was there too.


Such is the goal most of us search for, but as oft repeated, there exists nothing ideal for 'every' situation....just some that are more widely acceptable for a variety of circumstances. No "White" screen can pass that muster, and very few Gray screens either. Highly reflective screens offer up performance neither of the latter two can, but also introduce issues both of the latter avoid.



Actually, waves either are present from the "get-go" because of poor construction/Border sizing issues, or develop because of improper retraction.

The old "Whipping Roller Blind" effect is no cartoon...it does in fact happen...and most often with larger Screens.


Let me make this clear...when I absolutely have to use a Retractable, I either use a Elite or Focupix, because both offer VERY affordable electric screens that I can easily spray on a High Performance Coating onto. Of course I always consider...and mention that there are risks in buying ANY retractable...the best can still exhibit waves, have a wrinkle or two, or surface defects. The real test is as to if the Seller will effect a "no Risk" return in such cases. If one can abide the PITA syndrome dealing with such can create, then eventually...if patience can be had...one can get a Mfg Screen that is free from defects.

....and then paint it.


That can be done, but the logistics can over rule the benefits in many cases. Threads exist that detail such "builds" and those who have spent the time and care to do 'em right will swear by 'em. Something to consider....but only if you consider everything involved and accept everything required as being necessary.


Who would...or could blame you for feeling that way if in fact that was the only option. But thankfully it is not. When combined with effective lighting schemes that do not detract/intrude upon the Screen surface, you can have "the Best of Both Worlds" as you stated.

A "Gray" need not be so dark that it's only use is with Light Cannons. (...funny how any PJ over 1200 lumens used to fall under that moniker...)

The ability to adjust the shade of Gray almost infinitely is proprietary to the art of DIY painting on Screen surfaces. No Mfg can give you that much leeway...only sectional-ize the offerings (...and performance..)

I won't accept a Gray Screen's performance if it dirties up my whites or dulls my Color palette. Knowing what you can get by with...and how far you can go into Gray in a given situation (room/PJ/Lighting) is what dictates success or failure...as seen or not seen in poor imagery.

If a Gray can be made to be both "Gray" to spec for a given situation, and also provide positive Gain without undue retro-reflectivity, it can then be said to be much closer to being a "all around Screen' than either a standard Gray or White could ever be themselves.

So at this conjecture I'd say do yourself a Favor and get the best basic matte white Electric Screen you can muster up the funds for. Having eliminated the "roll-up" issue, all you need to do then is paint on the high performance coating of choice. Ditto if you feel the need to retain a manual operation.

The "Fold-away against the Ceiling" route is really not a very good overall option, as the Screen will have to have a rigid Frame lest it (the Screen material) bend downwards at the middle when stored horizontally against the Ceiling. With a Frame things can get pretty bulky, so under the circumstances, going with a Framed "painted" BOC or unpainted "Spandex" Screen would be best to consider so the Screen surface adds little to the "weight equation".

Mfg Fixed Screens cost much more than Retractable-s because they are expected to be straight, squared, and wrinkle free flat surfaces. But there too lies a possible solution....a "as inexpensive" Fixed screen (white matte) as you can find, painted with a great coating, and attached to the Ceiling via hinges and eye hooks.

You won't build anything nearly as lightweight out of wood & cloth, nor a frame as inexpensively out of aluminum Channeling. But Time-wise & Skill-wise...it would be the quickest, "best' solution beyond simply having a fixed Painted or Non-Painted DIY Screen directly mounted onto the wall....to stay.

Years ago when I originally recommended DW, I owned a CRT. I still do. Clarence was the first to buy a full screen and still uses it with his G90. Other CRTers have bought and used DW, but it is not solely a CRT screen. CRTers bought it because they are cheap - real cheap. Most can't comprehend spending a couple of hundred dollars on a screen when their pj didn't cost that much. That being said, my guess is that there are far more digital pjs projecting on DW than CRTs.

As for the gloss issue, I mentioned that in the very first laminate measurement. I am not sure if Wilsonart has gotten better on their QC to reign this in. For some, it is not an issue, but others it is bad. I still cringe when I think of seeing one DW screen that was so glossy that the owner couldn't understand what was going on. Fortunately, DW isn't that expensive. The gloss actually exacerbates the uniformity issue with CRTs, but most CRTers like the added gain.

Thanks for the conformation, Ericglo

Sometimes when you tell someone everything...good & bad, the good gets overshadowed by the bad. So many swear by WA-DW for all the right reasons it's almost heresy to mention any of the wrong ones.

Sorta like saying "Do-able is great...but"... You'll get a pounding if ya go there.

If there is one bit of information that is hard to understand it is that neutral gray screen does indeed allow the full spectrum of light to be reflected. We are inclined to think that a red screen would push an image to look red and a blue screen to blue and so on. So the natural thought process would say a gray screen would give a gray push to the image making whites gray. Long time member here use this logic all the time as well as newcomers.

Neutral Gray has exactly the same reflective properties as neutral white. Simply put gray is made by mixing white and black pigments. The pigments are ground as fine as dust but remain their own color. Its when we view them we see them as one because their size is so small we can no longer discern a single piece of pigment. Just like the monitor you view this on if the color is gray its made up of dots of white and black. Picture a football field covered in pool balls and every other ball is white and then black. Viewed from a distance the field would look dark gray. The black balls absorbing most of the spectrum of light hitting them the white balls reflecting the full spectrum. No information lost only the brightness turned down.

If a screen attenuated 10% of the projected light coming to it because it was a neutral gray and you compared it to a white screen the image would be exactly the same off the gray screen as the white if the gray screen had the projector delivering 110% the lumens as the white. In the case of outside ambient light though mixing with the projected light the gray screen would also attenuate 10% of that stray light and provide less loss in CR.

In my signature there is a thread listed called a fun read, where I project to a black screen showing white can be projected off of even black. It was done as an experiment to prove a point about gray screens.

There are many other factors that change picture quality, I just wanted to point out the neutral gray part of it.

Best'est, lightest and easiest stuff is 1" x 4" Poplar. Some stuff might be lighter...but nothing is as easy, light, and as inexpensive overall.

If you have a light-controlled room, I would suggest starting with a WA DW surface. If it proves too bright or otherwise unsatisfactory, paint it. I disagree that a gray screen is necessarily preferable. At very large sizes, few projectors have an excess of lumens in so-called 'Best' mode, so the additional gain of white helps.

Unless I've misunderstood the theory, a gray screen should have the effect of shifting the brightness range downward with no change in contrast ratio. A high-lumen projector that would otherwise have gray blacks and overpowering whites with a white screen in ambient light would instead have normal whites and darker blacks with a gray screen. A low-lumen projector will fare poorly regardless of the screen color.

I would not use WA DW in a room without light control.

My own experience is that the material is durable, but floppy and unwieldy in the 5x12 size. Lack of care in handling, even after mounted to a frame, can cause it to split. I've also encountered some expansion with humidity that requires additional forethought to the mounting method.

WA DW does have subtle hotspotting. It's almost as high-gain as a matte white surface can be, achieved in part by a sheen. This hotspotting is visible only with a pure white signal and generally not an issue. I have not encountered the loss of contrast MM mentioned.

I agree that poplar is an excellent framing choice. It costs about three times as much as pine. Pine is heavy and less pleasant to work with, but very strong.

Can i get smaller pieces of gatorfoam and place them together to make a screen?

or, maybe one of them there " Gators " Got him

What is your opinion about this?

I was thinking of doing a screen but don`t want to mess with drywall. This gatorboard sounds like a great option, unfortunately it seems rather hard to find locally. I can order the smaller sheets from several sites. Getting something rigid behind it shouldn`t be a problem.

I`ll try them. I contacted the co. you linked a few post up and they would ship, but had a 15 piece minimum

Smooth surface....1/4" thick at most (3/16" is ideal) Check into another variety called Sintra Board. It's also "Foam...in fact it's ALL Foam. GatorFoam board is actually a Foam Core sheet laminated with Plasticized Paper coating. As such it's actually cheaper than Sintra, but Sintra is actually more widely distributed in larger sizes.






Sorry Guys...been in San Diego, CA hobknobbing with CMRA, squirting two Screens. One for CMRA...a drop dead gorgeous 10' x 5' Foamboard S-I-L-V-E-R , and a 98" diagonal Silver Fire 2.0 as well. Got some doozies of Avatar & Gladiator BD screenies coming soon after I return to Memphis on the RedEye tonight.

Mal01, you absolutely can do a composite screen. If you want to go there...I'm there for ya...I won't quit'cha Pardner!

Just rtounf up the material, I'll send you some instructions, and you'll be a'headin' for the Great Big Picture that's on the Horizion in three shakes of a Neutred Calf's......leg.

BTW, 'dem Gators know 'Mo Bedder. I bite back.....hard.

I though so at first myself, having never tried it before, but my GatorFoam I had reserved was damaged upon inspection and they offered me a sheet of 5' x 10' Sintra for the same price. It looked exceedingly smooth....felt smooth...and so I primed it with 2 spraed Kilz-2 coats, and squirted on 6 coats of S-I-L-V-E-R.... and Brother...it was as good a result as any I've ever done. so I'm now also on board the Sintra Train as well. Great to have multiple choices....I'm a 'thinnin.

Gotta Fly! Literially!