NEW MFW-15 amps (May 2010) *pics* - Page 64

Power and output seem there (scared to really test) but at lower volumes especially the bass is unpredicable and sounds like its coming from someone elses system cause it doesnt seem to match

Did you try what I suggested? The Phase is actually 0 when reading 180 on some of these amps.

I might have missed it before, which amp version does the MFW-15 have, V1, V2 or V3?

Order a Dayton sa 1000 amp and a much beefier driver and go from there. It's going to turn into a franken mfw but that's better than what you've got going there

Great idea! What driver do you have in mind?

Why you don't sell it or give it away if you're no happy with it and get a svs pb13-ultra, a epik empire of if you want something really good a JL Audio Fathom f113.
That way you don't need to complain anymore for that crappy sub.
On a side note I have 2 and I'm totally happy with them, they are not the best but for the money I paid they are pretty good.

Or he could just upgrade the driver and amp to a turbo....

What?

Wow - this could be a simple technical issue but rather than write a response that is useful or heck even ignore me you go the extra mile to make this childish? Bravo sir, bravo.

Are you going to try what I said and give us some feedback? Otherwise, I'll quit wasting my time.

Wow - forgot how great av123 owners are... I said it could be a configuration thing. I was just answering what someone said back to me. I will try calibration for sure.

You have been carrying on for two pages while I have been repeating myself. This is the first time you have even acknowledged me, hence I feel like I am wasting my time. Prove me wrong. Back on topic.

I didn't say anything about calibration, but that is something that you might want to put some effort into as well.

1. Did you try the MFW-15 phase control at 180 degrees?

2. Do you know what version the MFW-15 amplifier is, V1, V2, or V3? I know that the V2 phase control is reversed.

Is this the case for all V2s? Any good way to test phase, other than try both 0 and 180 and try to see which one seems to be out of phase with the mains?

Play an 80hz test tone(assuming 80hz crossover) and see which phase setting gives most spl.... Short answer.....

If he, or someone else, got on the list now, how long would he have to wait?

Nick is correct. That is the easiest and the best way to set the phase!

Murrel

I discovered this purely by listening and brought it up in old 123 forum. There was much discussion about it and later, IIRC, it was verified by the OEM that the phase control is reversed on the V2. This was later confirmed by many owners. I think the V1's were reading out correctly, but, DON'T quote me on this. It's been two years since this discussion took place. I don't know about the V3.

Anyway, the phenomenon that Goon is describing sounds much like a phase issue and that's where I was going with my suggestion and question. The V2 is really at 180 when the setting reads 0.

Same here. And if you do decide to do business with Murrel, he's a straight shooter.

I can confirm the V3 and v2 are approx 180 out of phase which would imply the V3 is correct.

I will also confirm Murrel is a great guy!

Interesting. I've had two MFWs with V2 amps for years, and I've always kept them at 0. They never sounded "off" to me. I recently got an AS-EQ1, and I left the phase control on both at 0, as the instructions said. I have to rerun the calibration this weekend, so I'll check the phase on both then.

Thank you all for the kind words. I do appreciate it.

Murrel

Don't be surprised if you never receive an answer to that 1. I asked that same question more or less last week, on the MCCA forum, and have yet received an answer. I also added my name to the waiting list a little over a year ago or so, and have no idea when I might get a Turbo. I don't expect to ever get a Turbo at this rate. You're better off looking elsewhere.

Everyone will get theirs NEXT WEEK.......

You will get one, who ever you are, things are just taking a lot longer than I ever thought. Trust me, I wished I had drivers, but right now EVERYONE is having trouble getting parts.

Before you put much weight into what Pure-Evil wrote, go read all of his posts with regard to the mfw..

No seriously, I want to know what driver this subwoofer guru recommends to the rest of us poor saps. He must of had something in mind to bring it up... right?

It hasn't escaped my attention that he is now recommending the stock Dayton SA1000.

For an mfw ya why not? Although a behringer would be cheaper

*facepalm* Yeah, if you want to BLOW STUFF UP!

Ok, we got amp choices. We'll plug the amp and controller holes later, no reason to sweat the little stuff. What driver shall we use to load the box with?

I do remember some people had problems with some of the version 2 being out of phase. I copied this from the av123 forum at one point also. I don't think it's about phase, but could it be part of the problem?:

"Hey Kyle

I heard from a few folks today that their new amps did not work right. I was concerned, so I went over to manufacturing and had a look Here's what I saw - and then later confirmed

The Controller Board (Volume, Phase and Frequency) has a keyed Molex connector. The new amps are built and tested on our Golden Sample rig - and as these are all new they have the key in a direction that is consistent with our test rig

Many of our Warranty Folk have older amps (for lack of a better way of saying it) so THEIR cable harness is actually 180 degrees flipped. We did not catch this in production - or QA, as our Golden Sample rig has the new cabling (harness) and Controller Board so they all passed with flying colours

The result will be that for some of these folks with older units that are now getting the new amp, their Controller Board Molex Connector is (in fact) flipped 180 Simply pop the cable - flip the white key and re-plug the cable back in BINGO works fine

Our last test here at av123 did not reveal this as I'm also using the newer Cable (harness) and Controller Board - so of course they passed perfectly here as well

As we started to build fresh inventory with Cables and Drivers already loaded from before we noticed this problem (Actually, Lynn noticed this and called me take a look) I finally saw that key on the Controller Board was flipped the other way Pulled the key flipped it over and Bingo - everything worked

China essentially supplied two different Cable (harnesses) and Controllers I was surprised - but there was no way we could have caught this any earlier - or any better as these went out the door working just fine - passing TWO QA tests

Please make sure that we let the folks know Most will be fine but a few might need to flip that key.
Thanks
mls"

I love you too ;-)

Hopefully someone can help me out. I have 2 MFWs, one with a V3 amp, and the other a V2 with the cap fix. This morning when I was sleeping I heard a "pop" in the living room (I think there might have been a power surge), I went to check it out and discovered BOTH of my subs now have a hum. I have them plugged in to a surge protector, could both of my amps be fried now?

**Pure-Evil, please don't respond with buy this amp or that amp...etc,etc...thanks**

Are they playing with a hum or not playing at all?