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NEW MFW-15 amps (May 2010) *pics* - Page 85

post #2521 of 2590
For anyone in the Washington, DC area who is looking for a bargain MFW-15 (not working), there is one available in the black finish for $100.00. If it just needs some reworking on the amp, one could have an awfully good deal on this subwoofer.

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/ele/4013914923.html

Please keep in mind, this link is being posted on 8/26/2013. Since it is Craigslist, it might only be active for a week, or unless the sub sells prior to that time.

Enjoy!



Oh ... I think I've been on a sabbatical from this site for at least 4+ years. It's good to know that my ID and password still work. biggrin.gif
post #2522 of 2590
Does anyone know the value of the small transformer on the middle board? Mine burnt up but I may have caught it before any permanent damage.
post #2523 of 2590
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suburban1 View Post

Does anyone know the value of the small transformer on the middle board? Mine burnt up but I may have caught it before any permanent damage.


If you mean the coil/choke, thats an indication something else went wrong with the amp. They rarely just burn up unless something else downstream blows and then you fry the coil.....
post #2524 of 2590
I was fearing to hear that. The amp still works but the him is getting louder with a crackling. So I pulled the amp to do the cap fix and noticed the burnt up coil. So my plan is to do the caps and coil
Edited by Suburban1 - 9/6/13 at 5:47am
post #2525 of 2590
I had the same coil fry in a bad way the entire backplate got so hot you could hardly touch it... took out all the guts of the amp sealed all the holes with alum tape and silicone, and passed wires through from a standalone amp to the sub, working killer so far.
post #2526 of 2590
The coil has a sticker that says trans mag Lowell ma tm 13660 0924. I don't know if that has any inductance value or how to tell what size it is. Any help?
post #2527 of 2590
Are you sure its cooked? they do discolor a lot from heat. If it still kind of works I doubt the coil is bad. Do the caps, if it still doesnt work, well you have a few options but none of them would be to try and fix that amp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suburban1 View Post

The coil has a sticker that says trans mag Lowell ma tm 13660 0924. I don't know if that has any inductance value or how to tell what size it is. Any help?
post #2528 of 2590
Yeah the coil is cooked. I may need to rewind it if I can't find the size. I know its not gonna last either way but hopefully give me time to save for a turbo
post #2529 of 2590
Haven't been on the forum in a long time but it seemed the right place to look. Bought my MWF 10/31/08 but now have the dreaded hum. I guess that is better than most. I read the early posts about the cap fix and the V3 then jumped to the end to find out the recent news. Looks like cap fix is still viable The early reviws implied the V3 was much more reliable. Have there been V3 problems and are they still available.

Thanks
post #2530 of 2590
V3's are only available on the used market

the cap fix will work for a lot of people, some get a lot more life, some a few months
post #2531 of 2590
@Sandbagger:
What driver is used in the Turbo Upgrade? I've been running a Crown XLS1000 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-500 bridged at 1100 watts. Too powerful for the stock driver. It popped on me pretty good on me while watching The Great and Powerful OZ. Was thinking of putting this in. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-514
post #2532 of 2590
Well my V3 just stopped working one day. No loud noise, no pop, no burnt smell.
Amp just wont turn on.
I opened it up and the amp look fine internally. Caps are fine, no toasted area, wires are all in perfect shape and fully attached.
Any other reported issues with the V3? is this something I can get fixed? By whom? Murrell doesn't have any further involvement it seems. Thinking about selling the unit as is now for whatever I can get. I also have two v2 amps that have the hum but were never fixed with the cap fix.
post #2533 of 2590
You did check the fuse under the power cord right?

you could do the cap fix on the old amp
Quote:
Originally Posted by GobbityGotz View Post

Well my V3 just stopped working one day. No loud noise, no pop, no burnt smell.
Amp just wont turn on.
I opened it up and the amp look fine internally. Caps are fine, no toasted area, wires are all in perfect shape and fully attached.
Any other reported issues with the V3? is this something I can get fixed? By whom? Murrell doesn't have any further involvement it seems. Thinking about selling the unit as is now for whatever I can get. I also have two v2 amps that have the hum but were never fixed with the cap fix.
post #2534 of 2590
The Turbo driver is a custom

Yea 1100Watts is a bit to much for the stock driver eek.gif

No reason that driver wont make sound biggrin.gif

The nice thing about all the work I put into the Turbo with the custom driver then modifications to the amp is that its all dialed in to work together without any crazy pops and crackles
Quote:
Originally Posted by wal-dog View Post

@Sandbagger:
What driver is used in the Turbo Upgrade? I've been running a Crown XLS1000 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=245-500 bridged at 1100 watts. Too powerful for the stock driver. It popped on me pretty good on me while watching The Great and Powerful OZ. Was thinking of putting this in. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-514
post #2535 of 2590
Any thoughts on where to look? Took a shot on Audioholics, eBay but nothing.
post #2536 of 2590
Quote:
Originally Posted by GobbityGotz View Post

Well my V3 just stopped working one day. No loud noise, no pop, no burnt smell.
Amp just wont turn on.
I opened it up and the amp look fine internally. Caps are fine, no toasted area, wires are all in perfect shape and fully attached.
Any other reported issues with the V3? is this something I can get fixed? By whom? Murrell doesn't have any further involvement it seems. Thinking about selling the unit as is now for whatever I can get. I also have two v2 amps that have the hum but were never fixed with the cap fix.



Just replace the output transistors and you should be fine. I have seen it happen on new amps but not on any that I had burnt In.



Murrel
post #2537 of 2590
Quote:
Originally Posted by murrel View Post

Just replace the output transistors and you should be fine. I have seen it happen on new amps but not on any that I had burnt In.



Murrel

Thanks for the advice!

Rich
post #2538 of 2590
I will replace the caps as the initial fix but am interested in a V3 if anyone has one. In an earlier post someone talked about using Panasonic caps. Are they more reliable and will they fit?
post #2539 of 2590
I am looking for mfw-15 driver,if anybody has any just pm with shipping to 08105.
post #2540 of 2590
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger View Post

The Turbo driver is a custom

Yea 1100Watts is a bit to much for the stock driver eek.gif

No reason that driver wont make sound biggrin.gif

The nice thing about all the work I put into the Turbo with the custom driver then modifications to the amp is that its all dialed in to work together without any crazy pops and crackles

Thanks sandbagger. I thought maybe it was a Dayton in the Turbo. They look similar.
post #2541 of 2590
Hello guys, just wandering. The transformer in these amps gets extremely hot at 120 volts, has anybody used them at 220 volts. At 220volts they should draw less amperage and it seems that it would run cooler. I am going to try that on my mfw-15. I guess I would have to change fuse to smaller amperage, but will try it with the 6.3 that comes with them.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
post #2542 of 2590
Whether 120 or 240 volts, it would use similar amount of power = heat.
post #2543 of 2590

Hi,

 

My MFW-15 with V1 amp finally died last night and started buzzing. I was just going to do the cap fix thing and pray (I know success rate is low), but it seems that one of the little brown capacitors burned up and put a hole in one of the four 1500uf 100V caps. See attached. Does anyone know the specs on those little capacitors so that I can order a replacement?

 

The whole turbo thing is just too expensive for me right now. Also, as suggested in an earlier post, I was going to replace all four of the 1500uf 100V caps with 4700uf 100V ones.

 

post #2544 of 2590
.1uf 50 volt ceramic disk available at radio shack
post #2545 of 2590

Thank you! Do you have an opinion on swapping out on the 1500uf/100V caps?

post #2546 of 2590
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenV99 View Post

Thank you! Do you have an opinion on swapping out on the 1500uf/100V caps?

Murrel is the MFW guru, all knowing. tongue.gif He will be able to assist, grasshopper.
post #2547 of 2590
Those dont fail, just the other 4 and some times that ceramic disk gets taken out.
I would not bother with the 4 big ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenV99 View Post

Thank you! Do you have an opinion on swapping out on the 1500uf/100V caps?
post #2548 of 2590

I was concerned that when the disc cap went that it may have damaged one of the big ones (see attached: green arrow on disc cap that shows thermal damage, red arrow on area of the large cap where it looks like it may have taken collateral damage). It may just the plastic coating that was damaged, however. Should I be concerned based on the picture? I really appreciate everyone's help.

 

post #2549 of 2590
^I wouldnt worry based on what i see in that pic.

Additionally those caps are "snap in" and more difficult to remove without damaging the board. i would leave them alone.
post #2550 of 2590
I agree with sandbaggers and nicks hitachi. No need to bother with those big caps


Good luck!
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