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*The Official Samsung PNxxC8000 Owner's Discussion Thread!! - Page 104

post #3091 of 5831
11/29/10 at 6:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rilenixx View Post

do you guys think that ghosting of 3d content can differ between same model but different sets. ive had 3 sets of pn63c8000 and i dont remember the ghosting being noticable on my first two. although i had firmware 1019 on first 2 and went to 1026 on 3rd one and upgraded yesterday to 1032.

Has anyone else updated to the new 1032 firmware yet, other than the person above who is complaining of ghosting on his new set? I still haven't seen release notes on this version.

Got my 63C8000 yesterday delivered by BB. I have to say their service has improved. Plenty of communication, they were on time, pleasant and even helped move my old TV downstairs as well getting the new one set up. So far this set is very impressive. I am trying to "break it in gently" before calibrating. BTW, neither my wife or I don't detect any buzz from any position in front of the set, even right next to the screen. I only hear minor hum in the back like you will with all plasmas. I have the core installed on the cord and for what it's worth have all the power in my system going thru a high quality Parasound line conditioner surge protecter. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.
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post #3092 of 5831
11/29/10 at 6:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcandiloro View Post

i got mine less than a week after using the voucher online....

+1
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post #3093 of 5831
11/29/10 at 7:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROMAN O View Post

I am pretty sure you can as long as you have two different sources. I would call Samsung to verify as not many are using it anymore I have not had anyone ask me about it for a while, and you did the right thing by looking for yourself as thats who is going to be enjoying your unit

I could be wrong, but IIRC on the current line of Samsung plasmas one of the sources has to be either the built-in on-air tuner and/or cable in order to take advantage of Samsung's PIP feature.
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post #3094 of 5831
11/29/10 at 7:33am
May I ask where you go typically to find the release notes on various version of the samsung tv firmware updates? I'd be interested in see it as well..

Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ckensto View Post

Has anyone else updated to the new 1032 firmware yet, other than the person above who is complaining of ghosting on his new set? I still haven't seen release notes on this version.

Got my 63C8000 yesterday delivered by BB. I have to say their service has improved. Plenty of communication, they were on time, pleasant and even helped move my old TV downstairs as well getting the new one set up. So far this set is very impressive. I am trying to "break it in gently" before calibrating. BTW, neither my wife or I don't detect any buzz from any position in front of the set, even right next to the screen. I only hear minor hum in the back like you will with all plasmas. I have the core installed on the cord and for what it's worth have all the power in my system going thru a high quality Parasound line conditioner surge protecter. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.
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post #3095 of 5831
11/29/10 at 7:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckensto View Post

Has anyone else updated to the new 1032 firmware yet, other than the person above who is complaining of ghosting on his new set? I still haven't seen release notes on this version...

I updated to 1032 about a week ago and its been perfectly fine. Haven't noticed any 3D ghosting or issues.
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post #3096 of 5831
11/29/10 at 8:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfcarbel View Post

Anyone here order and receive their unit from US Appliance? Any issues with the process?

I will have mine Weds morning. Just confirmed the delivery today.

I've had zero issues so far. It took a few days for the order to process and ship. I ordered mine the first day the deal was up (last monday i think).
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post #3097 of 5831
11/29/10 at 8:48am
I'm having a couple issues when enabling CEC AnyNet+ for HDMI control:

1) When using CEC AnyNet+ for HDMI control the speakers are set to External because the receiver is handling the audio. However when I use the volume control on my AVR it causes the TV to display a volume control of its own (which overlays the volume control of my AVR). Does anyone know how I can turn this off (without displaying the Anynet+ / CEC, which I need for the Audio Return Control feature)?

2) When using CEC AnyNet+ for HDMI control the Samsung is forcing my AVR to the TV input on it AV1 when the TV first warms up and displays a picture. However there is no audio on this channel and I have to manually put it back to HDMI2. This is very frustrating. I am not sure yet whether this is the fault of the AVR or the Samsung.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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post #3098 of 5831
11/29/10 at 10:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by uscpsycho View Post

Question for anyone with a 63C8000 that's on a stand...

Can you measure the distance between the stand and the bottom of the picture (the actual picture not the bezel)? I'm trying to figure out if I can put my center channel speaker on the stand in front of the TV without obstructing the picture.

Thanks!

4 1/4 from the top of the plasma stand to the screen. 5" from the table top to the screen.
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post #3099 of 5831
11/29/10 at 10:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mortaldivine View Post

I ordered this tv and plan on wall mounting it. Do recessed outlet's work with these tv's? I think I heard they have the plugs that bend down?

The TV has a right-angle plug to allow it to be as flat as possible behind the screen. I installed a recessed outlet before my TV arrived. The plug fits fine in the top outlet but it covers the bottom one so I can't use the bottom outlet for anything. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't bother with the recessed outlet.
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post #3100 of 5831
11/29/10 at 10:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by edrhew View Post

Relax... Francis. (Homage to one of the greatest movies of all time, Stripes)

The HTTYD disc comes in about a week after sending your voucher in.

E.

...you just made the list, buddy.

heh

thanks to everyone who commented. glad to hear the disks are shipping out pretty quick. hope i have the same luck.

now i just have to decide if i should buy a new receiver with 3d hdmi switching or just rely on my Harmony remote to switch 50 settings when i switch sources..... maybe i'll stumble on a nice cyber-monday deal, but no luck so far
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post #3101 of 5831
11/29/10 at 11:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by toneman View Post

I could be wrong, but IIRC on the current line of Samsung plasmas one of the sources has to be either the built-in on-air tuner and/or cable in order to take advantage of Samsung's PIP feature.

Yes, the PIP overlays your choice of either on-air or cable via the internal tuner over the currently-selected source.

You cannot, for example, PIP one HDMI source over another HDMI source.
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post #3102 of 5831
11/29/10 at 12:14pm
Is there any way to disable the antenna input so its not even selectable? I don't have a coax going into the set and never will use it that way (no interest in OTA).

Also does anyone else have a problem where after they watch a blu-ray and turn it off, the TV switches to the antenna input (all snow)?
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post #3103 of 5831
11/29/10 at 12:15pm
Hey folks wanted your opinion on a TV dilemma I have. This past weekend I purchased a Samsung 58C8000 plasma bundle (w/ Samsung 5900 BD player, Shrek starter kit) from BB. I am concerned about the possibility of image retention with the plasma as it still seems I hear about IR on this forum quite a bit. I have had all LCD's except for one plasma (a Vizio) in which I do not recall any IR (currently have a Samsung 52B750). I also purchased a Sharp LC-60E88UN from BB as a backup in case I decide against the C8000 plasma. The TV will be used mostly for watching TV (50%), watching BD (30%), and gaming (20%). So the question is how much of an issue is IR on this particular TV and do most people recommend following the 100 hour break in procedure for a plasma? I do not want to have to babysit a TV or run into issues...the less problems the better. Opinions please!
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post #3104 of 5831
11/29/10 at 12:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PunjabiM3 View Post

Hey folks wanted your opinion on a TV dilemma I have. This past weekend I purchased a Samsung 58C8000 plasma bundle (w/ Samsung 5900 BD player, Shrek starter kit) from BB. I am concerned about the possibility of image retention with the plasma as it still seems I hear about IR on this forum quite a bit. I have had all LCD's except for one plasma (a Vizio) in which I do not recall any IR (currently have a Samsung 52B750). I also purchased a Sharp LC-60E88UN from BB as a backup in case I decide against the C8000 plasma. The TV will be used mostly for watching TV (50%), watching BD (30%), and gaming (20%). So the question is how much of an issue is IR on this particular TV and do most people recommend following the 100 hour break in procedure for a plasma? I do not want to have to babysit a TV or run into issues...the less problems the better. Opinions please!

I have a 58C8000,
I did a 100+hr break in using slides, you don't have to, but I did for peace of mind. I use the TV for: 50% gaming, 30% TV, 20% movie. I haven't had any trouble with IR, and I game alot. You might see some IR in the first few hundred hours, but after that, it shouldn't be an issue.
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post #3105 of 5831
11/29/10 at 12:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckensto View Post

4 1/4 from the top of the plasma stand to the screen. 5" from the table top to the screen.

Thank you VERY much. Exactly the information I needed
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post #3106 of 5831
11/29/10 at 2:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Is there any way to disable the antenna input so its not even selectable? I don't have a coax going into the set and never will use it that way (no interest in OTA).

Also does anyone else have a problem where after they watch a blu-ray and turn it off, the TV switches to the antenna input (all snow)?

I had the problem till I turned HDMI control off. I have no idea why my Samsung TV switched to antenna after I switched my Samsung BD player off when using HDMI control.
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post #3107 of 5831
11/29/10 at 2:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by uscpsycho View Post


Thank you VERY much. Exactly the information I needed

I wonder where the IR sensor is though? I'd like to do the same thing, but I obviously need the remote to work.
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post #3108 of 5831
11/29/10 at 4:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PunjabiM3
Hey folks wanted your opinion on a TV dilemma I have. This past weekend I purchased a Samsung 58C8000 plasma bundle (w/ Samsung 5900 BD player, Shrek starter kit) from BB. I am concerned about the possibility of image retention with the plasma as it still seems I hear about IR on this forum quite a bit. I have had all LCD's except for one plasma (a Vizio) in which I do not recall any IR (currently have a Samsung 52B750). I also purchased a Sharp LC-60E88UN from BB as a backup in case I decide against the C8000 plasma. The TV will be used mostly for watching TV (50%), watching BD (30%), and gaming (20%). So the question is how much of an issue is IR on this particular TV and do most people recommend following the 100 hour break in procedure for a plasma? I do not want to have to babysit a TV or run into issues...the less problems the better. Opinions please!
No IR here and I didn't run break sliders. I watch ALOT of sports and game too. The other day I watched "Life" on one of the HD channels and the had scenes were the camera wouldn't move for awhile and I never had IR. Also no IR from HUDs from gaming either. Relax and enjoy your tv..
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post #3109 of 5831
11/29/10 at 6:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectronicTonic View Post

I have a 58C8000,
I did a 100+hr break in using slides, you don't have to, but I did for peace of mind. I use the TV for: 50% gaming, 30% TV, 20% movie. I haven't had any trouble with IR, and I game alot. You might see some IR in the first few hundred hours, but after that, it shouldn't be an issue.

Very well put better be safe and do it even though i rarely see any complaints about IR and burn in anymore, I always recommend it.
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post #3110 of 5831
11/29/10 at 8:42pm
Hi All.
I just ordered a 63 8000 series and waiting for it. I am looking forward to having it home. I currently have a 50 elite so I'm a bit spoiled with PQ.

OK, what mount are you using? Anyone have an articulating one they recommend? What about cables? I wasn't planning on spending 150 bucks at BB for HDMI cables. Are they still the same cables for these 3D TVs? Is there a new protocol for cables that my HDMI cables I already have will not work?

Thanks for the help.
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post #3111 of 5831
11/29/10 at 9:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by redmcoupe View Post

Hi All.
I just ordered a 63 8000 series and waiting for it. I am looking forward to having it home. I currently have a 50 elite so I'm a bit spoiled with PQ.

OK, what mount are you using? Anyone have an articulating one they recommend? What about cables? I wasn't planning on spending 150 bucks at BB for HDMI cables. Are they still the same cables for these 3D TVs? Is there a new protocol for cables that my HDMI cables I already have will not work?

Thanks for the help.

I just picked up some new HDMI cables from Monoprice.com, just get the "High Speed" cables.
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post #3112 of 5831
11/29/10 at 10:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

I updated to 1032 about a week ago and its been perfectly fine. Haven't noticed any 3D ghosting or issues.

Same -- zero problems with 1032 (which was still only available via the direct internet download last time I checked)...
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post #3113 of 5831
11/30/10 at 12:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by redmcoupe View Post

Hi All.
I just ordered a 63 8000 series and waiting for it. I am looking forward to having it home. I currently have a 50 elite so I'm a bit spoiled with PQ.

OK, what mount are you using? Anyone have an articulating one they recommend? What about cables? I wasn't planning on spending 150 bucks at BB for HDMI cables. Are they still the same cables for these 3D TVs? Is there a new protocol for cables that my HDMI cables I already have will not work?

Thanks for the help.

For 3D to work you should use HDMI 1.4. I just ordered one for $7 shipped from Amazon because I have Prime and I'll get it in two days. If you don't have Prime or don't need it in a hurry you can get the cables a few bucks cheaper elsewhere.
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post #3114 of 5831
11/30/10 at 4:13am
Who here is running HDMI Black Level at "Low"?

I was for a while, but it just completely destroys any detail to dark scenes, and makes it nearly impossible to make out whats going on aside from the faces of people. I've set it back to normal and now I can see whats going on, but the black levels have risen significantly. Anyone have any solutions to this?
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post #3115 of 5831
11/30/10 at 4:48am
As far as I am aware, the "Low" HDMI black level setting (video 16 - 235) on the screen is the correct one to use unless you are inputting a PC level signal (0 - 255) into the screen.

I use the "Low" setting, send video level signals into the screen and the detail in dark scenes is excellent.
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post #3116 of 5831
11/30/10 at 6:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Zodiac View Post

As far as I am aware, the "Low" HDMI black level setting (video 16 - 235) on the screen is the correct one to use unless you are inputting a PC level signal (0 - 255) into the screen.

I use the "Low" setting, send video level signals into the screen and the detail in dark scenes is excellent.

What do you mean by "(video 16 - 235) and (0 - 255)"?

I paused dark scenes, and when switching from low to normal the amount of things I could see in the scene improved dramatically, but the blacks became grey.
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post #3117 of 5831
11/30/10 at 6:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by skooba
Who here is running HDMI Black Level at "Low"?

I was for a while, but it just completely destroys any detail to dark scenes, and makes it nearly impossible to make out whats going on aside from the faces of people. I've set it back to normal and now I can see whats going on, but the black levels have risen significantly. Anyone have any solutions to this?
Hdmi level isn't an image quality enhancer or anything. You just need to choose the correct level that the source is using. It's usually either limited 16-235 or full range 0-255....I'm not sure which one "low" in the samsung corresponds to, but it's definitely one or the other.

Basically if it turns the blacks grey, the other one is correct. When set properly, black is black.
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post #3118 of 5831
11/30/10 at 7:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by skooba View Post
What do you mean by "(video 16 - 235) and (0 - 255)"?
I'm sure there's some great explanation on the Internet somewhere, but basically it's a digital level as a numerical value stating what's classed as black and what's classed as white - the higher numbers being white. 16 - 235 is for video use (most PVRs etc), and 0 - 255 is generally for PC use. 16 - 235 (video) = Low on the Samsung HDMI black level setting adjustment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skooba View Post
I paused dark scenes, and when switching from low to normal the amount of things I could see in the scene improved dramatically, but the blacks became grey.
What you're doing is effectively brightening up the image as though you've turned the brightness up. You will see more detail, but it's wrong. That's why the blacks now look grey.
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post #3119 of 5831
11/30/10 at 7:52am
What if you were to use the TV as HTPC monitor? Could it be a potential issue then?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROMAN O View Post
Very well put better be safe and do it even though i rarely see any complaints about IR and burn in anymore, I always recommend it.
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post #3120 of 5831
11/30/10 at 7:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bd2003 View Post
Hdmi level isn't an image quality enhancer or anything. You just need to choose the correct level that the source is using. It's usually either limited 16-235 or full range 0-255....I'm not sure which one "low" in the samsung corresponds to, but it's definitely one or the other.

Basically if it turns the blacks grey, the other one is correct. When set properly, black is black.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Zodiac View Post

What you're doing is effectively brightening up the image as though you've turned the brightness up. You will see more detail, but it's wrong. That's why the blacks now look grey.
I'll have to take some pictures to capture what I'm talking about. There's simply no way the HDMI low setting could be "correct" because on some dark scenes you just sit there having no clue what is going on because the whole screen is black.

One scene that comes to mind is in The Expendables near the end when Jet Li runs through the dark hallway and jumps on a guy and wraps his legs around him. The first time watching it on "low" I had no idea what happened. When I switched it to "normal" I could see what was going on (albeit, with washed out blacks).
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