*The Official Samsung PNxxC8000 Owner's Discussion Thread!! - Page 152

I replaced an ISF calibrated Hitachi 57" CRT RPTV with the PN63C8000. I've had the set for about a month now, it has an Oct build date, and I updated to the latest SW first day I had it. To date, no discernible hum (that's not just me, that is for the entire family, including two teenagers), amazing PQ using the hometheatermag settings, and no blink (yet) using either Netflix, DVR, or BR player as sources. In an absolute dark room the blacks don't blend in with the bezel, but with any type of bias or background light the blacks are more than adequate. Sorry to see a decent amount of folks reporting hum and blink issues, but I haven't had these problems, though I've probably just jinxed the TV.

Ok I have a dilemma i'd like some help with as well.
I purchased a 50" 8000 plasma last month for the bedroom and I am not pleased. THe Pq is not bad but the IR is very bad. I cant leave an image on the set for more than 30 seconds without some Image Retention. I got a smoke n deal at BB and I only have until Jan 31st to take it back. I have 4 pairs of Samsung 3D glasses as well and all the boxes were tossed so I know taking the glasses back will be hard. I also purchased the 6900 3d Samsung Blu-ray to go with it.
Lastly I think my poor uneven vision is making the 3d expierence not what it should be as well.....If frustrated!!! I have a Pioneer Elite Kuro in the living room that I keep comparing it to as well ...that also makes it hard. So I guess my question is Keep or not to Keep? Wait until the new sets in the spring and get hosed on the price...or trade for Pani VT?...or ...eBay or craigslist an old Kuro. I did get the set for about $1300...so the deal was sweet. Suck it up cause the price was so good? I just don't know.

Thanks in advance!!

have you tried breaking in the TV with Break-in slides or DVD? you should run it for 150-200 hours with the contrast and brightness on or below 50 to help prevent IR.

That's what I was thinking, I've got a 63C8000 and no problems at all with retention. I ran the slides
for about 150 hours. I'm using the Cnet settings.

On Samsung's website there is a form you fill out with a description of the problem. They make you upload a copy of your receipt, and then a local authorized repair center will contact you within a couple days (they gave me the name upfront). Once they call you, they have you go over the problem with them again, and schedule an appointment for a tech to come out. That's when you'd try to reproduce the problem. I caught the netflix issue on film; now I have to try to catch the "other" blink on film before January 28th when the tech comes.

When I try this a msg says "not available". I have only watched one movie on Vudu and hated the "soap opera" look.

Tim

Ok, I have only seen the blink just once while watching the netflix app on my samsung BR player. It happens so seldom that I can't reproduce it on the spot for the samsung tech. I have to capture it on video with my camera first.

I don't suppose they'll do anything about IR, buzzing, line bleeds, or out of sync 3D glasses would they?

Don't over react to the problems here. I'm sure for everyone with a problem, there are 10 with no problem.

I've had my 63c8000 for just over a month now. No problems. no blinking, no humming, no IR, just a great picture and solid performance.

I have some minor buzzing, but that's the only other problem besides the blink. If I have line bleed, I don't notice it, and I have never lost sync with my 3D glasses (I have watched less than 5 hours of 3D content, though. I really don't care for the diminished picture quality just to get some added depth).

Anyone care to tackle this one?

Also, is there an "optimal" cell light setting? I found an older thread on the 4/500 series (I think) stating that a calibrator had recommended a setting of 10 as optimal as anything lower throws the gamma curve off. I'm running mine higher, I think 16 and 14 in movie and cal-night modes respectively.

10 would be too low, I think. Most online settings for the C8000 have the cell light in the mid to upper teens.

I just noticed my first blinks last night-I've had the set since mid December and haven't done any firmware updates (1027). I was watching D*TV in HD and it was doing it several times/minute. The audio through my AVR was fine, just a split second loss of video. It stopped when I changed the channel though, so I can't say it isn't caused by the source. I hope this isn't the start of a major issue...

On another note, has anyone found out anything about the "1080p glitch" yet? The screen tearing like that really bothers me playing MW2/Black Ops/etc.

What does it mean if Dolby Digital is grayed out when you go to Menu > Audio> SPDIF? I'm getting 5.1 surround just fine (I have my DirecTV receiver going through my AVR with HDMI), but I'm curious why the menu item is grayed out.

I'm wondering if you have a problem with the TV? Right when I got my 8k, I used CNETs settings and did not run break-in slides, but no image retention has occurred. I've left images on my tv for 30-45 minutes by accident and no IR. You might want to consider getting a replacement.

If I recall correctly, the older models only went up to 10 in the cell light settings. Our Tvs (speaking for the 8k) can go up to 20. Im using Cal-Day and I have my cell light at 16-17, which allows me to keep the brightness down to around 45-50. Works fine for me in bright and night conditions.

95% of the calibration settings I've seen have a cell lighting of 15+. Doesn't necessarily mean thats what is optimal for you...but just something to think about.

I guess then I just shouldnt update my firmware.

Sorry to insist with this issue but my TV is still in the first month of try and I wont like to replace it by another one if this error is present in almost all the TV sets. Has anyone else found the T-Con Checksum error in service menu. Please I need help with this as soon as possible. Thanks to you all!!

sorry - i haven't been on the forum for a while... just saw your post.

the glasses look the same between the HTTYD and Shrek kits, but they DO NOT perform the same. maybe they changed eletronics inside the glasses or something?

indeed replacing glasses is VERY costly or VERY time consuming (arguing with BestBuy managers to give you a new set, etc...)

i read somewhere that the next gen tvs might use bluetooth for synching the glasses. i don't know if that was mentioned in this forum yet because i haven't had a chance to catch up on the last ~100 posts. the more i think about it, using IR to synch, as with current gen glasses, is kind of stupid given all the problems that can arise. i would have loved to wait for 2nd gen 3d tvs but my old tv crapped out and i waited almost 8 months for a new one - i just couldn't wait another 8 months for the next wave of tvs

good luck

Are you saying the glasses in the Shrek Kits have a problem?

I saw a couple of blinks last night (usually pretty rare), but both times where when my DVR was paused.

Recieved my 58C8000 a few weeks ago. There's a hum... but it's not bad... I'd consider it normal for a plasma planel. Can't hear anything while watching TV at normal volumes. PQ using CNET settings is great.. although I am going to try the hometheatermag settings just for comparison. I've yet to see a 'blink'. I don't know what FW I'm running, and not quite sure how to check. I assume it's in the menu's settings somewhere? Service from Crutchfield, as always, was/is incredible. Couldn't be happier with them. Set came with the Shrek 3D starter kit, but it hasn't come in yet... it's backordered. It also came with the Samsung BDC6800 3D Blu-Ray player... and yes, it's backordered too. I'll get them eventually. I suppose. The only complaint/question I have is the AV sync when watching DirecTV. I'm passing everything through a Denon AVR-391 using HDMI. Picture is fine, sound is great, but they're not synced up on everything I watch. On some programming it's much more noticable than others. I don't know if it's worth fooling with or not, I'd just like to know if anything should be checked &/or changed.

Thanks for the input.

anyone?

Just a guess, but Dolby is only output when the TV is the source, so the option probably grays out when any other source is used. Is it grayed out if you use a TV source like streaming?

Joe's got it, select TV Tuner as the input and DD won't be grayed out since it's the only source that will output DD via optical output from the TV.

Sometimes it's the DVR's fault, but it often happens because the video takes longer to decode than the audio. Does it happen if you use the TV's speakers? If so then it might be the DVR.

Otherwise, does your AVR have an HDMI lip sync option? Or an adjustable delay? That's the usual way to correct it. You'll probably see the same sync issues with the blu-ray when it arrives.

Good theory. Actually I can't hit Menu while streaming without exiting the stream. But I can hit Tools and I can select audio options of PCM and DTS. Is DTS Dolby. I'm just trying to wrap my head around when I get the options and when I don't. Your theory almost gets me there.

I've found that when streaming from my computer (ripped DVD's, etc.) I can select PCM/DD/DTS as long as the stream supports it. When streaming from the internet (Netflix), or with a source via HDMI (BR Player, DVR, etc.), the only audio option is PCM.

Well, as the saying goes, things seem to be getting interestinger and interestinger....

..On a lark i decided to contact my cable provider, Comcast, to see if there was any sort of issue with compatibility between my cable box, receiver and the Samsung tv. I was thinking back to all of my blinking issues and really could not recall a blink in recent history that was not related to Cable (live or DVR playback). Here is a cut-n-paste of my chat session with Comcast:

Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:52:34 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

during live and DVR playbacks, the video signal will sometimes disappear for 3-5 seconds, with the audio still playing


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:52:55 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

this has happened since i bought the new TV and AVR in November.


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:53:07 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

I have swapped out all of the HDMI cables


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:53:32 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

replaced the AV Receiver twice (three total new receivers) and even switched to a different model that last time


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:54:05 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

i am running the signal from the DCX3400 through my Pioneer VSX-1120-k AV receiver and then out to the Samasung TV


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:54:29 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

I have also tried running the signal to different HDMI inputs on the TV (four different)


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:55:02 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

I am assuming that there is an issue with the TV, but the DVD player does not show the same problem


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:55:31 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

so i am wondering if there is a firmware compatibility issue between the TV and the Cable box...


Michelle(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:58:04 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

Thank you for the detailed information, Kevin. And based on the information you have provided, this is one of the known issues for DVR's and the A28 guide which is the latest firmware update for our equipment.


Michelle(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:58:05 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

Our network team are aware of this issue and are still working on a fix to be deployed when the next firmware update will be launched.


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:58:48 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

how do i know what level of firmware i have?


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 11:59:59 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

and, this issue also happens during live broadcasts. As an example, last week I was watching (in HD) the Jets/Patriots football game when the blink happened twice in one hour


Michelle(Sat Jan 22 2011 12:00:02 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

All deployed boxes in the are have the latest firmware already.


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 12:01:22 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

so, can you confirm that the issue is known to happen in both playback and live modes?


Michelle(Sat Jan 22 2011 12:02:46 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

Yes, Kevin. We do apologize for the inconvenience. This issue will be fixed in a future release or update for the DVR's.


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 12:03:13 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

how is the firmware update launched?


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 12:03:28 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

and deployed?


Michelle(Sat Jan 22 2011 12:05:19 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

It is done automatically. As long as box is plugged in and turned on, it should receive the software update. Additionally, prior to the launch, there will be some forms of communication for scheduled launch dates.


Kevin_(Sat Jan 22 2011 12:06:47 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

ok, thank you. how long has this issue been known and when is there an expected fix to be released?


Michelle(Sat Jan 22 2011 12:08:46 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

As of this time, there is no definite information regarding as to when the next firmware update for the dvr's will be deployed. But I have your concern also noted for reference. The information you have provided is helpful for the resolution. Thank you.


Michelle(Sat Jan 22 2011 12:08:59 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time))>

It has been my pleasure serving you today with your cable concerns and I truly appreciate your understanding and cooperation. Do you have other concerns for me today? I will be glad to assist you further.

Well, I have watched several DVD movies in the past month and have not had a BLINK occur during any of them. I am going to purposely watch a few more and make sure to confirm that the blinks are only with the Cable box.

I will post if I learn more...

~ Kevin

This doesn't explain why I get links while playing my Wii.

I just ordered a new PN63C8000 this morning, VERY EXCITED!!!!

I have noticed no matter what picture size I am using on either bluray or DISH there is a very small area of the screen where there is no picture. The size is maybe 1/8 inch around the entire set

do others have this? I don't think it is really a problem per se but it is a little distracting since where there is no image the screen is 100% black compared to the bezel and the image on the scree

Also I notice the "screen fit" option does not always fit the entire screen, note this is separate from the first issue above.

thanks