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*The Official Samsung PNxxC8000 Owner's Discussion Thread!! - Page 164

post #4891 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectronicTonic View Post

I understand what you guys are saying, but he said "most", not "all". If your TV doesn't buzz, great! My TV does buzz, but I'm not going to return it till I get one that doesn't. Also, it's not a big deal to me.....Now if my TV had some of the other issues posted here, it might be a different story.

P.S. My TV also must blink when I'm out of the room, cause I've never seen it happen.

Most is a pretty broad statement. Just because a handful of people on this board report issues one cannot accurately state that "all" or "most" have issues. Had he stated that 10 to 20 people in this thread have issues it would lend to the accuracy of his statement.
post #4892 of 5831
I am happy for all of you that do not have the buzz, because I do and it is really distracting. I rented SALT on Vudu last night and it was difficult to watch due to the buzzing sound being such a distraction. I am about 12' from the TV and it is on a stand at eye level when sitting. I placed a work order with Samsung last night and already received a call from a local technician. They are coming out tomorrow to have a look at it. I really do hope it is something that can be repaired as I absolutely love the TV but unfortunately the buzz is just too much of a distraction. I have a very nice 5.1 surround setup with the Denon 4311ci receiver which should have no problem drowning out any sound the TV makes....but I can still hear it.
post #4893 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by JN99 View Post
+1

Otherwise it's quite a distraction/annoyance while watching the thing in a dark room.
Agreed, but IMHO a compromise could be made by having a setting that allows you to turn it on/off, similar to how it's set up w/ the Samsung blu-ray players where you can turn off the light for the disc tray.
post #4894 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by paydepst View Post
Greetings all!

I haven't had the occasion to read all 164 pages of this thread yet so I hope no one will mind me asking a question that may very well have been answered already.

My JVC CRT finally gave up the ghost after many years of faithful service. We are going to BB today to look at this line from Samsung and I was wondering if anyone could tell me how SD material looks on these TVs? The reason I ask is that as a collector I have a LOT of SD material on the shelves.

Many thanks!
It really depends on the size of the screen and viewing distance. That being said, SD looks fine on mine. It can also change from channel to channel.
post #4895 of 5831
Hi all,
I have a 63" 8000 series since 1/7/11 and last night I discovered it wouldn't power on. Called Samsung and then called BB today, have an appt. for next Thursday with a tech to check the power and circuit board. I mean it is not getting any power, no red blinking light, no red light at all. Tried un-plugging it and waiting and plugging it in to a different outlet but no joy. Wish me luck, I love the TV. Anybody else had any blow outs like this?
post #4896 of 5831
Why won't the C8000 sync with the blu ray player? They're both Samsung brand and the player came with the 3D bundle? I was hoping I can minimize and just use the shiny TV remote control to power both but when I press the 'play' button on the TV remote, the player does nothing? Can anyone explain?
post #4897 of 5831
I have done a little snooping around and someone else had the same experience recently, just after the 30 day period with BB and they came out and replaced all the circuit boards. Thing is I am out of TV in the Big Room for a week... wife and kids aren't happy about this. Should I press for a new TV or do you think with a new circuit board and power supply it would be like having a new Tv, hell I haven't even had it calibrated yet.
post #4898 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by BSN View Post

Why won't the C8000 sync with the blu ray player? They're both Samsung brand and the player came with the 3D bundle? I was hoping I can minimize and just use the shiny TV remote control to power both but when I press the 'play' button on the TV remote, the player does nothing? Can anyone explain?

The c8000 remote is not a multi-device/universal remote. It has nothing to do with syncing anything or the brand of the player; it's just a remote for the TV and the TV only.
post #4899 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by BSN View Post

Why won't the C8000 sync with the blu ray player? They're both Samsung brand and the player came with the 3D bundle? I was hoping I can minimize and just use the shiny TV remote control to power both but when I press the 'play' button on the TV remote, the player does nothing? Can anyone explain?

I think this is possible, but the player has to be connected to the right HDMI input, the CDC or whatever Samsung calls it has to be enabled (Anynet?)
The HDMI cable will need to support CEC over HDMI -I don't know what version that is.. but would think the high speed one would do it.
post #4900 of 5831
First let me state that I am not trying to start a Flame war or disrespect one technology vs. another I realize it's a personal choice. I'm an Engineer after all, so all I am trying to do is understand what I am seeing and why . And understand what I am seeing. and perhaps what I am doing wrong . So here goes:
I don't know if you guys can help me, but I am currently doing a side by side comparison of a Sony 60EX700 (LED edge lit LCD, that CNET judged as Mediocre), and a Samsung 58C8000 Plasma (CNET #2TV). I set the Samsung to Movie, which is the CNET recommended best setting, and started with the Sony on Cinema (and heavily tweeked it to duplicate the Plasma's color contrast etc.). I am still figuring out the whole color comparison, but what I am finding is that in a dark room, the LCD has a deeper black level than the plasma (by a fairly wide margin). This is totally contrary to everything I've read; to the point that I am wondering what I am doing wrong. First let me say that I am using a HD Cable feed (1080i @ 60 hz) so I am wondering if perhaps cable does not put out a true black IRE level? (does anyone know)?
I am also going to use ALL of the CNET's recommended settings, but I am fairly confident that that will not be a drastic change. I will try a DVD this evening. And no I don't have a BlueRay player (yet) please no flaming I'll rectify that situation shortly. I chose the cable feed, because that is what I watch most of the time, and I can run my two HD cable boxes simultaneously and see the exact same picture on both screens (for direct comparison).
Another ancillary question: can I split an HDMI signal? (or buy a BlueRay player with two HDMI outputs?) . Otherwise I am at a severe disadvantage, as both pictures are extremely nice and I fear my visual memory is not good enough to spot the subtle differences.
post #4901 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by zogy View Post

First let me state that I am not trying to start a Flame war or disrespect one technology vs. another I realize it's a personal choice. I'm an Engineer after all, so all I am trying to do is understand what I am seeing and why . And understand what I am seeing. and perhaps what I am doing wrong . So here goes:
I don't know if you guys can help me, but I am currently doing a side by side comparison of a Sony 60EX700 (LED edge lit LCD, that CNET judged as Mediocre), and a Samsung 58C8000 Plasma (CNET #2TV). I set the Samsung to Movie, which is the CNET recommended best setting, and started with the Sony on Cinema (and heavily tweeked it to duplicate the Plasma's color contrast etc.). I am still figuring out the whole color comparison, but what I am finding is that in a dark room, the LCD has a deeper black level than the plasma (by a fairly wide margin). This is totally contrary to everything I've read; to the point that I am wondering what I am doing wrong. First let me say that I am using a HD Cable feed (1080i @ 60 hz) so I am wondering if perhaps cable does not put out a true black IRE level? (does anyone know)?
I am also going to use ALL of the CNET's recommended settings, but I am fairly confident that that will not be a drastic change. I will try a DVD this evening. And no I don't have a BlueRay player (yet) please no flaming I'll rectify that situation shortly. I chose the cable feed, because that is what I watch most of the time, and I can run my two HD cable boxes simultaneously and see the exact same picture on both screens (for direct comparison).
Another ancillary question: can I split an HDMI signal? (or buy a BlueRay player with two HDMI outputs?) . Otherwise I am at a severe disadvantage, as both pictures are extremely nice and I fear my visual memory is not good enough to spot the subtle differences.

Try the link below

http://www.buy.com/prod/new-hdmi-mal...217104087.html
post #4902 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by paydepst View Post

Greetings all!

I haven't had the occasion to read all 164 pages of this thread yet so I hope no one will mind me asking a question that may very well have been answered already.

My JVC CRT finally gave up the ghost after many years of faithful service. We are going to BB today to look at this line from Samsung and I was wondering if anyone could tell me how SD material looks on these TVs? The reason I ask is that as a collector I have a LOT of SD material on the shelves.

Many thanks!

I have a 63C8000 and a lot of old SD material, including VHS tapes going back 25 years. I was afraid that on the big screen, every flaw in the low quality material would be amplified. But that's not the case. Everything is very watchable, it's just big copy of the low quality video.

The only problem is that the HD picture on the TV is so good, that I want more and more of it, and can imagine that before long, the old SD stuff will stay on the shelf.
post #4903 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by zogy View Post

Another ancillary question: can I split an HDMI signal? (or buy a BlueRay player with two HDMI outputs?) . Otherwise I am at a severe disadvantage, as both pictures are extremely nice and I fear my visual memory is not good enough to spot the subtle differences.

monoprice sells a couple HDMI splitters. I was looking into them, but never made a purchase

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...01&cp_id=10113
post #4904 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by JN99 View Post

The c8000 remote is not a multi-device/universal remote. It has nothing to do with syncing anything or the brand of the player; it's just a remote for the TV and the TV only.



Interesting. Another question:
If this is so, then why bother putting a Rewind, Pause, FForward, Rec, Play and Stop button on the TV remote in the first place? Unless the TV itself is capable of using such buttons?
post #4905 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by BSN View Post

Interesting. Another question:
If this is so, then why bother putting a Rewind, Pause, FForward, Rec, Play and Stop button on the TV remote in the first place? Unless the TV itself is capable of using such buttons?

You can use them on internet sites as an example of what they're for (like pausing/FF/RW etc on VUDU).
post #4906 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by BSN View Post

Why won't the C8000 sync with the blu ray player? They're both Samsung brand and the player came with the 3D bundle? I was hoping I can minimize and just use the shiny TV remote control to power both but when I press the 'play' button on the TV remote, the player does nothing? Can anyone explain?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayMan007 View Post

I think this is possible, but the player has to be connected to the right HDMI input, the CDC or whatever Samsung calls it has to be enabled (Anynet?)
The HDMI cable will need to support CEC over HDMI -I don't know what version that is.. but would think the high speed one would do it.

Yes, this answer is correct. I can control my Samsung blu-ray with the TV remote if they are connected via HDMI (through my receiver), and Anynet+ is turned on (both on TV and player).
post #4907 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by zogy View Post

First let me state that I am not trying to start a Flame war or disrespect one technology vs. another I realize it's a personal choice. I'm an Engineer after all, so all I am trying to do is understand what I am seeing and why . And understand what I am seeing. and perhaps what I am doing wrong . So here goes:
I don't know if you guys can help me, but I am currently doing a side by side comparison of a Sony 60EX700 (LED edge lit LCD, that CNET judged as Mediocre), and a Samsung 58C8000 Plasma (CNET #2TV). I set the Samsung to Movie, which is the CNET recommended best setting, and started with the Sony on Cinema (and heavily tweeked it to duplicate the Plasma's color contrast etc.). I am still figuring out the whole color comparison, but what I am finding is that in a dark room, the LCD has a deeper black level than the plasma (by a fairly wide margin). This is totally contrary to everything I've read; to the point that I am wondering what I am doing wrong. First let me say that I am using a HD Cable feed (1080i @ 60 hz) so I am wondering if perhaps cable does not put out a true black IRE level? (does anyone know)?
.

Unfortunately, I am seeing the same thing between a PN50C8000 and LN60C630. With a little bias light the LCDs perceived blacks is like the filter and the plasma just glows. Even with the lights off the LCD is much darker and even the screen is more uniform. I'm wondering if the plasma has IR and the phosphors need to cool, but right now I'm not seeing the plasma black level praise. When I go into magnolia in BB the 58c8000 looks much darker like it should...don't get it...
post #4908 of 5831
I noticed that there is a blinking green LED emanating from the back of my new Samsung 58C8000 (from the central ventilated portion of the set). If I look on the circuit board the LED is labeled LED 2000/LED 2001). I'm guessing that this is not normal, anyone else had this issue? Samsung Customer Service says that it is normal and just letting you know it is getting power ... so every set out there should be doing this. Could someone confirm that for me.
post #4909 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by zogy View Post

I noticed that there is a blinking green LED emanating from the back of my new Samsung 58C8000 (from the central ventilated portion of the set). If I look on the circuit board the LED is labeled LED 2000/LED 2001). I'm guessing that this is not normal, anyone else had this issue? Samsung Customer Service says that it is normal and just letting you know it is getting power ... so every set out there should be doing this. Could someone confirm that for me.

Yes, it's normal. I also had a PN50B860 that did it too.
post #4910 of 5831
+1 on blinking green LED being normal
post #4911 of 5831
My new pn63c8000 will arrive Monday from Modia. I went to BB today to look at their floor model. The rep turned it on, and I heard the dreaded buzz. If that's what people are hearing, it would be a deal breaker for me. I'm 50, and it sounded awful: very loud and annoying. The rep said, "I'm turning this off: that sounds really bad". I fought of one owner who said it sounds like he's living under a power line. I know that most people don't have this issue (at least, not this badly), so my fingers are crossed.
post #4912 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gurn Blanston View Post

My new pn63c8000 will arrive Monday from Modia. I went to BB today to look at their floor model. The rep turned it on, and I heard the dreaded buzz. If that's what people are hearing, it would be a deal breaker for me. I'm 50, and it sounded awful: very loud and annoying. The rep said, "I'm turning this off: that sounds really bad". I fought of one owner who said it sounds like he's living under a power line. I know that most people don't have this issue (at least, not this badly), so my fingers are crossed.

Oddly, moments after posting this, my wife called and said that the tv delivery was at the house. I raced home, and the tv delivery guys did what I needed, and the tv doesn't buzz. Yay!
post #4913 of 5831
anyone know if there is a way to turn on side by side 3d using the vga port?

I actually have my 360 plugged in to the tv and when i hit the 3d option on the controller it only allows me to pick the 2D to 3D conversion. I would like to try and play a few games that offer sbs 3d
post #4914 of 5831
HOWDY -- i'm looking for a competent San Diego person to do a pro calibration of my PN63C8000. Ive had the TV for about 3 months now and am very happy with the picture just playing around a bit (have it on game mode and using some of the settings recommended by cnet and others). but i would prefer to get someone that really knows these things to help me get the best possible picture. one particular challenge for me is that during the day the room is very bright (2 big sliding glass doors and 2 skylights). luckily no direct reflections but lots of light. so i think that i need a separate "night" and "day" calibration.

SUGGESTIONS??? (either specific person or process for finding good one?)

Thanks,
post #4915 of 5831
PLEASE HELP

What slides & settings did you use for break in? I just got a PN50C8000 in. The webapalooza site has been down for days. Are Evangelo2's slides fine?

I saw someone mention the following break in settings, are they good? cell light to 10, brightness to 36, contrast 64, color 48, Tint 54/46 for movie mode with Warm2 setting

Thanks!
post #4916 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by jessegun23 View Post

anyone know if there is a way to turn on side by side 3d using the vga port? ...

All 3D options (except 2d->3D) only show when the source is attached via the HDMI ports.
post #4917 of 5831
Has anybody heard from Samsung about the "blink" issue? Do they acknowledge the issue and plan to fix it with a firmware upgrade?
post #4918 of 5831
I pulled the wireless usb stick off my Samsung BD-P3600 and plugged it into my 63C8000 (software 1032) to test the Blink and Netflix issue. I used a wireless N connection and if anything, the TV blinked more often. I was using "Dilbert" (cartoon) to test with and and it was blinking every 10 seconds with wireless. Blinks every 20 seconds using a wired connection. I have a 3mb DSL connection and Samsung reports 2.34Mbps. The BD-P3600 does not have a problem blinking running Netflix.
post #4919 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by junkmail View Post

you goggle it...

just kidding... even though I had to search a while for it, I'll be nice...

With TV powered off press: [mute], [1], [8], [2], [power]; One note is that going into Service Menu and coming out will reset your calibration picture settings. Also, BE VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY CAREFUL ABOUT MESSING AROUND AND CHANGING STUFF THAT YOU'RE NOT AWARE OF IN THE SERVICE MENU.

Here's what it looks like:

How do you get out of the service menu after you look at the display hours? Do you simply power off? I read a FAQ that says that Reset should be selected before exiting or the brightness may be skewed.
post #4920 of 5831
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaunosario View Post

Has anybody heard from Samsung about the "blink" issue? Do they acknowledge the issue and plan to fix it with a firmware upgrade?

I saw this post by someone on the CNET thread -

"update from Samsung

by danduttry - February 7, 2011 4:39 PM PST

In Reply to: Its definitely the new way Netflix does it by computergeek18

I put in a trouble ticket direct to Samsung for an on-site tech to come out. I recieved a call from somewhere in north carolina and I spoke to a guy with Samsung who told me they ARE AWARE of a Netflix App issue, and they are working on an updated firmware fix. ETA 30-60 days.

The fact that they have acknowledged this makes me feel better. Now we wait."

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-7574_102...ntent;forums06

I sure hope this is true.
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