*The Official Samsung PNxxC8000 Owner's Discussion Thread!! - Page 166

I'm one of the "lucky" individuals who has had the Samsung blink issue for over 6 months now. It started well before firmware 1032, and was unrelated to netflix. It happens usually when I am watching cable TV, which would suggest the cable box is to blame, but it has also happened a couple times with my Wii. In the coruse of troubleshooting the problem, I had a Pioneer AVR fixed (they couldn't find a problem with it), and then replaced with a Yamaha AVR. The blink was still there, so I contacted Samsung for repair. They came and switched out the X and Y boards. The blink was still there. I just had them back out today and he replaced the main board and the power supply. He said the only thing left to replace would be a few ribbons or the display itself. I asked Samsung what my options were, and they said they always try three repairs before considering anything else. If the problem is still there, I hope I can do an exchange and pick up a 2011 model. Maybe the new models are free from buzzing (mine buzzes) and don't blink, either. I will keep everyone posted so if you are planning to have a repair tech come out, you can let him/her know that someone else with this issue had all the boards replaced and it didn't do any good. By the way, for those with the non-Netflix blink, what set top box/DVR are you using? Mine is the Motorola DCX3400. I still wonder if it's to blame, but the blink shouldn't have occurred with my Wii, then...I'm stumped.

That's how my blacks look, they blend right into the black bars. But I get this will all of the settings that I've seen listed here. Never had an issue with black levels.

I'm currently using a slightly tweaked version of bd2003's settings, listed on page 160 of this thread.

The only setting that effect this is brightness. A properly created source should do this a brightness level 57 and below.

my black levels are much better now
thanks for the advice

Quick question guys ... I tried CNET settings and somehow they r not working for me. Seem to lack color & vibrancy. I'm also noticing some grain/noise in all my sources ... And also some edge-pixelation.

I was wondering if some here tried or came up with something different.

Copied from Home Theatre's magazine when they reviewed the C7000. I am using these settings and in my case bumped up a color, gamma, and color tone-normal to make it a bit brighter. Its an excellent starting point.

2D

Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 57
Sharpness: 0
Color: 45
Tint (G/R): G50/R50
Advanced Settings

* Black Tone: Off
* Dynamic Contrast: Off
* Gamma: -1 to +1
* Color Space: Auto

White Balance:

* Offset: Red 26, Green 25, Blue 27
* Gain: Red 25, Green, 29, Blue, 26

10p White Balance: On
Interval Red Green Blue
1 0 0 0
2 -1 0 -2
3 0 0 0
4 0 0 0
5 0 0 -2
6 0 1 -3
7 0 0 -3
8 0 0 -5
9 0 0 0
10 0 0 0
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
xvYCC: Off or N/A
Picture Options

* Color Tone: Warm2
* Digital NR: Off
* Noise Reduction: Off

HDMI Black Level: Low
Film Mode: Auto2
RGB Only Mode: Off (except for testing)

* Screen Protection
* Side Gray: Light
* Pixel Shift: On
* Scrolling: Off (except as needed)

Head up xpand 3d glasses x103 for $83 at amazon.

Thanks!! I'm going to give your settings a shot and modify from there to my liking.

Is there anyway to copy or set the Picture Settings to all the sources? I had my source set to My cable and I tried the CNET settings. When I switched to other sources like Xbox or Blu-ray ... They had the default settings. Is there anyway to bring the same settings for all sources instead of setting them one by one for all sources?

I'm still learning about all the calibration features with this awesome TV. I'm using the CNET settings and am happy with them. Some here have suggested bumping up the "gamma". What exactly does that do for the picture?

Honda,

Your settings definitely worked a lot better then CNETs, I did have to tune them a bit to my liking but it's a very good start.

Here's my issue though - I'm getting excellent PQ on all HD sources (cable, BD, etc) even though I'm not all there yet ... However ... I'm not getting very good SD picture. In fact it's horrible. Very Pixellated, blurry at times - just horrible. I know SD is never the strong point or focus of these TVs but I have other Plasma & LCD and they all have better SD. I just cant get good SD.

For SD I use:
Sharpness: 20
Edge Enhancement: On
Digital NR: Medium
Noise Reduction: Medium

How do u segregate HD and SD? Cable has both HD & SD stations ... But single source input. Settings to the input apply to both formats.

Just purchased a 50" C8000 and I'm loving it so far. Watched the Slam Dunk Contest last night and it looked awesome. I like to ask to c if anybody has any good settings to start off with. Thank You

Good question, I have only SD channels in my cable box atm so I dont have that prob yet

Hi - thanks so much for the update. I have a blinker but not a buzzer so I decided not to risk swapping it out and just try and ignore the blinking as annoying as it is. I have the Comcast DCX-3400. Others reporting non-Netflix blinkers have had FIOS boxes as well as DirecTv boxes. Doesn't seem to matter.

Yes they can replace all the parts in your TV but I doubt that will help because IMO its something in the firmware. My thought is that eventually there will be enough complaints that they will resolve the issue.

I did notice as I'm leaving the settings & using the set, the Picture is getting better. Not sure if my "eyes" are adjusting to it or if the PQ is just getting better. SD wasn't looking that bad last evening. HD is stunning!

I have the blinking also and would love to get a 2011 set but it seems unlikely that Samsung would swap or offer a new set due to a firmware error.

bd2003 (or anyone else) -- i am about to try your suggested settings from early feb (2/2/11 i believe). (i too want to keep it in game mode). Aside from your subsequent post indicating that you dumped your 3D adjustments (i guess just left things as is?), are there any other subsequent changes? (sorry if i am duplicating questions....)

Second question is that i would like to have 2 different a dark room (night) and a light room (day). I assume that your settings are geared towards a dark room. any suggestions for quick adjustment for daytime viewing?

Lastly, i notice that there are 2 settings called "cal night" and cal day" which seem perfect for my purposes. I dont know if those are only accessible by a pro. But in any event I believe that if i select game mode then it puts TV into "standard" so not sure how to use these...

Any help appreciated.

I've had a Samsung C8000 in the house now for about 2 weeks doing a direct comparison with my Sony EX700 (LCD/LED). My wife of course thinks I've slipped a cog but I digress. I've learned a lot so far about the differences in the two technologies. I decided to sit down with the wife and watch a DVD; we chose Inception. I started with the Plasma, and had to change back to my LCD mid movie (which, as you can imagine did not win me any affection points). I noticed something on the plasma that was really distracting.
Attached is a picture of what I was seeing (captured by a still camera during playback):
A few notes on the set-up. This was played from a DVD running on my Oppo DVD player output at 1080i). I tested various outputs (480p, 720P, and 1080i) to make sure it wasn't an output format issue. The pictures were taken with a still camera during playback the halo is NOT present when stepping thru frame-by-frame. It appears only during playback. I was thinking it might be some kind of conversion issue, but I've since noticed on other movies as well (U571 for instance). The scenes where it occurs all appear to be live action shots so I don't think is some digital artifact. I am using
Movie mode with a few White Balance corrections, which I picked up on this forum.
Has anyone ever noticed this? And any ideas what it is and how I to fix it?
I know switching to a BluRay format may eliminate it, but I have never noticed this before, and it appears to be generated by the video processing. This would be a deal breaker for me, since I can readily spot this issue (cause I am not looking for it). Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Glad they have fixed this. To work around this I've been turning judder control OFF for 3D movies (or anything 1080p24).


Holy cow!! Could this be another way of saying they've fixed the blinking issues??

I just posted this in the "Settings" thread if anyone is interested.....




I just finished calibrating my 58C8000 using my i1 Display LT. Here are my final settings with firmware 1032.0 The set has about 125 hours on it and I'm sure it will need another cal in a few months once this baby fully settles in.

I have a set that has a faint buzz, certainly not worth the hassle of returning because of it. When the volume is on, a buzz cannot be heard, only when room is dead silent.

These settings are for a light controlled home theater room with no windows or ambient light. For what it's worth, in my opinion, the picture on this set is STUNNING! I got rid of a Sony XBR LCD to buy this and I am VERY glad I made the switch.

Hope these settings may help some of you. Enjoy. I have attached a spreadsheet with the settings and my Color HCFR Graphs if interested.

Lotsapoppa


Firmware Version T-VALAUSC-1032.0
Samsung PN58C8000

Mode Movie
Cell Light 17
Contrast 95
Brightness 55
Sharpness 10
Color 50
Tint G50/R50
Eco Settings All OFF

Advanced Settings:
Black Tone OFF
Dynamic Contrast OFF
GAMMA +1
Expert Pattern OFF
RGB Only OFF
Color Space Custom
R 100-0-6
G 29-100-0
B 3-0-100
Y 57-50-0
C 26-64-59
M 64-0-100

White Balance All 25

10pt. White Balance - ON Level R-G-B
1 -2,-3,-5
2 1,1,0
3 -1,0,0
4 1,0,1
5 -1,-1,-1
6 0,2,0
7 0,1,0
8 -1,1,0
9 0,0,0
10 -1,0,5

Flesh Tone 0
Edge Enhancement OFF

Picture Ops:
Color Tone Warm 2
Size Screen Fit
Digital Noise OFF
Mpg Noiswe OFF
HDMI Black Level LOW
Motion Judder OFF
Screen Burn All OFF

 

Samsung C8000 Settings1.zip 499.9423828125k . file

Glad to hear it. Did you use the online update or USB?

What type of blurry issue did you have? I don't recall seeing such an artifact. I use motion judder on Smooth for all video and OFF for all film.

Well, I'm not sure what I did to get it working, but it works now, and it works great! It's so nice to have a keyboard for the apps and widgets.

Thanks for the heads up. That's odd. Last time the latest firmware was only available for online updating and the download from the website was stale. It was like that for a while. And now its reversed. Oh well at least its available.

I just downloaded it (rather slowly) and installed it. It went fine. It didn't fix the AnyNet ARC issues I have with my receiver though. Not that I expected it to, but it's still disappointing.

Which issue is that you are referring to? The one where it erroneously tells the AVR to go to the ARC input channel when the TV first turns on, even though there is no audio to be played on that channel? Or...?

I installed it too. However the installation process was rather short and I'm a bit leery of whether it installed. I got the prompt "do you want to upgrade?" and I said yes. Then I got the progress bar from 0 - 100 which took about 3 minutes or so. Then the picture came back. I was expecting the TV to power off and back on and maybe go through some install process, but it didn't. Certainly it did not follow the procedure as described in the PDF (no "optimization" stage etc).

All that said, when I look at the diagnostics on the set it does indeed say 1035.

Does this sound like your upgrade process or did yours do something more? Thanks.