*The Official Samsung PNxxC8000 Owner's Discussion Thread!! - Page 179

hey everyone i just wanted to know if the line bleeding is fixable on these sets? like does everyone have it or is it a defect in the tv? ive had the 63c8000 since December and have been noticing it so i called samsung and they sent a tech who replaced the motherboard and i still notice it. this is my first plasma so i dont know if this is a common problem or a defect in my tv so any info on this would be great.

all plasmas have line bleed. it's inherent of the technology

Interestingly, the first one I got that was built in June, 2010, definitely showed line bleed in certain situations, however, the replacement I ended up getting that was built in Jan, 2011, shows none at all.

Pre Denon setup was a Pioneer VSX D814 (pre hdmi). I had the directv hr24 hdmi cable straight to hdmi input 1 of the tv. Digital audio out of hr24 to the pioneer avr. Had the Sony bdp s570 hdmi to input 2 of the tv and the digital audio out going to the pioneer. I had the wii going into the component in on the Pioneer AVR and then going from the Pioneer to the component in of the tv. Hope this helps and maybe a little more tact next time?

Guys will this unit cool down a bit over time?

Man it gives off tremendous heat.

Just wondering if it's this intense only during the break in period or not.

Thanks in advance.

Really? I was shocked how little heat mine gives off.

Yes
My room isnt very big

We feel it after the sets been on for more than an hour

Will this subside?

I agree, i have a samsung 42" plasma that produce more heat than this 63"

My 63" runs very hot as well. I've had it for 2 months if it gives you any clue fkjr2.

I have a 65 Panny S2 and a 58 8000. The 8000 runs quite hot to the touch unlike any Plasma I have had, its got to be due to the thinness of the 8000. I hope for long term durability its not going to be an issue. My 65 S2 has no heat at all.

Must be why these have so many problems with cracking glass. I saw a youtube video where the Samsung engineer said at a demonstration that they are designed to let the heat escape out of the front glass which is how they can be made so thin.

So for anybody who experiences cracking, it should be treated as an engineering flaw and not anything you as a consumer have caused.

I don't have it yet, but will have a pn50c8000 arriving tomorrow to replace a G25 that I didn't care for. Hot I can deal with, but I too hope it does not adversely affect the longevity of the set.

Any chance you can get an update on the c8000 getting a browser, with an update?

If my memory serves me well, people were finding the cracked glass when the display arrived at their home. The issue was due to shipping or packing and was not heat related.

Correct. I believe in my case, the culprit was the bag the remote and ferrite cores where in. It was moving about freely in the box when I opened it, and likely banged around the whole time it was in transit. When I called Abt for a replacement, they were quick to help. I asked them to open the box prior to shipment and perform a quick inspection of the glass, and to pack it with extra plastic bubbles. They did so, and the replacement TV was in perfect condition. I suggest anyone who orders the TV call in and ask them to perform such measures prior to delivery.

Ahh, thanks for the clarification. I hope mine is in good shape when it comes today.

Erikson, any news on your situation? Has your new TV arrived?

Unlike you, my local(ish) repair center was able to source a replacement display; they will be out on Thurs (3/31) late afternoon to install it. I'll be very interested to see if that resolves the buzz and/or blink.

Ok, I just got my new C8000 delivered. And I have to say that so far its perfect!! But I haven't turned it on yet, so maybe I should just leave it that way, haha.

Sorry to hear that...but who knows, you might be better off with a C8000. Perhaps the D8000 has a whole bunch of new issues. Mine is being delivered tomorrow morning. If I was you, I wouldn't be too confident the problem will be fixed, since it has been speculated that the problem is in the chipset of the 2010 model. If the replacement display has the same chipset, you could end up with the same problem. The bad part is, the blink didn't start happening for me until well after 300 hours of use. Stay on top of it and at the first sign of trouble, contact Samsung. By then they will almost certainly have to replace it with a 2011 model. You might want to check to see when your warranty expires and make sure you buy an extension if necessary, because Samsung does not renew the warranty on the set they exchange.

Hi, could you offer some advice?

I called Samsung today regarding my TV Blink and also the flickering purplish pixels. She told me to try the self diagnosis Picture Test in the Tv's menu. She asked me if the problems were still present on the still picture of the 2 children on the beach. I told her that it wasn't. Then she said that there is nothing wrong with the TV and that it's probably a bad HDMI cable.

So what do I need to tell them to get a technician out or to get a replacement?

For BD playback do people prefer to use aspect "screen fit" or 16:9?

Same question for DirecTV...

Personally, I prefer screen fit for BD and 16:9 for DirecTV. But I generally leave it on 16:9 all the time because I get tired of changing it.

Edit: Just wanted to add that I prefer 16:9 for any broadcast type stuff because I like to have pixel shift on, in case there are static logos or tickers, or whatever...

Here are my initial impressions of my pn50c8000, though I've only watched a couple hours on it so far. Used some calibration settings I found to dial it in a little better. This is in comparison to the Panasonic G25 that I returned for many reasons.

1) Picture quality is great, but I was expecting a little better blacks. Perhaps I was spoiled with those from the G25, and my friends Pioneer.
2) Buzz sound is very minimal. Compared to the G25 it is very acceptable and usually not noticeable.
3) The speakers/sound is not as good as the G25. Guess thats what happens when the tv is 1.25" thick.
4) Anti-reflection filter is not as good as the G25. I think it is acceptable however, but might have to play with a tilting mount or some window shades later on.
5) I had many issues with the G25 which I do not have with this set. Noisy picture, unforgiving compressed or SD signal, buzzing, floating blacks, non-uniform coloring in the display itself (slightly green tinted areas), bad handling of motion, perceptible flicker in refresh rate, poor syncing of dialog in certain situations.

I would have to say I think the Samsung is going to be a great everyday set. Perhaps if I only watched perfect BD content I would have kept the Panasonic, but I felt like the sum of all the little problems I had with it was just too much to ignore. At the very least I would have called out a service tech to take a look at some of the problems.

Sure, I paid almost double for this set, but so far it seems to be worth it. My biggest gripe is the black levels, which I didn't think I would notice, but turns out that I do.

Welcome to the family!
Unfortunately the 50 inch sets seemed to have a slightly higher black level than the 58 and 63 inch sets from multiple sources. But...don't get disappointed yet before you do the following:

1) Make sure current firmware is on the set (v. 1035)
2) Log a couple hundred hours on the set and the blacks will improve slightly (thats right they actually get better on the Sammys). I can tell you that my set now has 6 months of heavy use and the latest firmware on it and I am much more impressed than when I first turned it on in regard to black level.
3) Movie mode has the deepest black levels, so calibrate that unless you already have it on that setting.
4) Toggle to movie then to another setting if that is your preference; there is/was (some say the latest firmware fixed it) a bug that caused black levels to be elevated until you put the set on movie mode then back to your preferred mode. I wouldn't know if it is fixed because my set is always in movie mode (or game mode engaged from movie mode) which also helps retain the deeper black levels with games .
Hope this helps and enjoy your set!

Cool, thanks for the tips! Actually last night I switched from the original calibration settings I used, to one that used movie mode as a starting point found here http://dennisthomsen.dk/2010/07/sams...-and-settings/ . It seemed like blacks maybe got a little better but is hard to tell, and overall I prefer the picture with these settings. Is there any way to copy picture settings from one source to another? That would be great.

Thanks for the reminder about firmware. I have 1032 right now so I'll be sure to upgrade to the latest.

Would energy save mode reduce the heat coming from the glass?

I would venture to say yes because it cuts down on the overall energy use of the set (how much it would help is anyones guess). I run my set with energy save on medium at night, I prefer a "less intense" picture for dark viewing and colors and contrast still look fine to my eyes. My contrast is also set to 80 and I feel heat is a non-issue.

Tell them the blink is there and you have tried new HDMI cables without luck. Let them know other people have the blinking issue and are having sets replaced after having all three boards on the C8000 replaced with no resolution of the problem. The two things that always get the blame are HDMI cables and the set top boxes. We can rules those out. Just keep at it. Initiate a repair request - don't just talk to someone in customer service.

Out of curiosity, has anyone with the blinking issue tried the component input? I'm not suggesting this as a remedy.

thanks. I finally got them to send out a tech. It took 3 phone calls. They still don't believe anything is wrong with the TV because the picture is fine when you run Picture Test in the Self Diagnosis. I swapped out hdmi cables and tried component cables just to make them happy. I still get purple flickering pixels on white backgrounds and the occasional blink.

Well, the techs have come and gone, and, despite a new panel, new main board and another board (didn't catch the name), the buzzing is the same.

The techs were nice enough (truly), but of course, said afterward (when we could all still hear the noise) that "plasmas buzz" and that "you basically just got a new TV", so I know where they stand.

Very disappointed.