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Repair Yamaha HTR-5890 or buy new (Onkyo NR807?)

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
Hello all,

I have a Yamaha HTR-5890 that's been dead about two years. I finally got new speakers (four Polk Monitor 70s and a CS2 center) so I want a decent receiver. Apparently my Yamaha needs a new 'Power Supply Function board', the local shop said it would be $286 (parts and labor, in addition to the $52 diagnostic fee I already paid.)

My question is if you all think it would be better to cut my losses spend ~$400 more to get a new receiver or repair the Yamaha? I have my eye on the Onkyo TX-NR807, but I'm open to other suggestions as well. Having HDMI switching would be nice, but I can't say that alone is worth $400 to me.

Also, does anyone know how hard it would be to do the repair myself? I'm fairly technically inclined (I've built computers from scratch and whatnot, but never really done this type of work.) Is soldering involved, or is it more like installing a power supply or video card in a desktop computer?

Thanks!!
-D.L.
post #2 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLMsv View Post

Hello all,

I have a Yamaha HTR-5890 that's been dead about two years. I finally got new speakers (four Polk Monitor 70s and a CS2 center) so I want a decent receiver. Apparently my Yamaha needs a new 'Power Supply Function board', the local shop said it would be $286 (parts and labor, in addition to the $52 diagnostic fee I already paid.)

My question is if you all think it would be better to cut my losses spend ~$400 more to get a new receiver or repair the Yamaha? I have my eye on the Onkyo TX-NR807, but I'm open to other suggestions as well. Having HDMI switching would be nice, but I can't say that alone is worth $400 to me.

Also, does anyone know how hard it would be to do the repair myself? I'm fairly technically inclined (I've built computers from scratch and whatnot, but never really done this type of work.) Is soldering involved, or is it more like installing a power supply or video card in a desktop computer?

Thanks!!
-D.L.

You could get the RC180 for less money. Very close to the 807. The differences being relatively minor. And you would love the loss of all the wires with HDMI. The RC180 or even a Denon 1910 would be very close to your repair cost.
post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks, for the suggestions. My Yamaha was rated at 140 watts /channel and I've read that my Polks like all the clean power you can give them, so I'd like to stick with a higher powered AVR.
post #4 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLMsv View Post

Thanks, for the suggestions. My Yamaha was rated at 140 watts /channel and I've read that my Polks like all the clean power you can give them, so I'd like to stick with a higher powered AVR.

You wouldn't notice the difference in the power between the 807 and RC180. I doubt you would notice the difference between the one you have now and the others mentioned. You are right in that Polks do like a lot of power. The more the better, but you would have to feed them a whole lot more power than the Yamaha does to notice that difference. If you really want them to sing go for a Yamaha 665 and an Emotiva XPA3 for the fronts and let the AVR do surround duty. Which Polks do you have? In the price range you are looking, for you if you think your Yamaha is doing everything you want it may pay for you to have it repaired. IMO, though either of the aboved mentioned will do as well as your current AVR.
post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
The Yamaha's been dead in my closet for two years, so I've never heard it with my new speakers (which are four Polk Monitor 70s, CS2 center and a Klipsch Sub-10.) But I was pretty impressed with how it handled my parents' old Bose setup.

I am relatively new in this area, could you please explain how an extra 25 watts (~22% more power) wouldn't be noticeable? After reading up on the RC180 more it does sound pretty attractive, however the main drawback I see it that it lacks multi-channel analog inputs. Although it isn't a top priority for me, I would like to ability to connect a PC with 5.1 audio to my AVR.

Thanks again,
-D.L.
post #6 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLMsv View Post

The Yamaha's been dead in my closet for two years, so I've never heard it with my new speakers (which are four Polk Monitor 70s, CS2 center and a Klipsch Sub-10.) But I was pretty impressed with how it handled my parents' old Bose setup.

I am relatively new in this area, could you please explain how an extra 25 watts (~22% more power) wouldn't be noticeable? After reading up on the RC180 more it does sound pretty attractive, however the main drawback I see it that it lacks multi-channel analog inputs. Although it isn't a top priority for me, I would like to ability to connect a PC with 5.1 audio to my AVR.

Thanks again,
-D.L.

You would have to double the power to get a 3db increase. I agree that the Polks are a lot better speaker than you had before(easily) and they do love a lot of power. The only way to get that much power that would be noticeable would be to get an amp and add it to the mix. AVR's DO NOT put out their stated specs with all channels driven. Most don't even come close. This is the reason I suggested an amp added to the mix. Get yourself either a Onkyo 707 or a Yamaha 665/765 or any other brand that will fit your budget as long as it has pre-outs. Then save some more money and get an Emotiva amp. The UPA5/7 or XPA3/5 are very good amps and an excellent investment long term. Then you be able to drive any speaker combination you want now and in the future.
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
It looks like the Onkyo's lower than the NR807 and RC180 only have SUB pre-outs, not 7.1. So I'd have to get at least the RC180. That UPA-5 is sounds very nice, so I'm leaning towards positioning for that at some point in the future and going with the RC180 for now. How are remote amps triggered to turn on. the 807 has a 12V trigger, but the RC180 doesn't, is that a deal breaker?
post #8 of 14
Thread Starter 
Another thing I noticed is that my Yamaha does not support TrueHD or DTS-HD Master Audio. What are everyone's thoughts on how important these are? If we were to just repair the Yamaha, I would still eventually get a new unit as I plan to redo my basement and move my "theater" down there, then use the Yamaha for a smaller secondary system in my living room.

Thanks again for all the feedback!
post #9 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLMsv View Post

It looks like the Onkyo's lower than the NR807 and RC180 only have SUB pre-outs, not 7.1. So I'd have to get at least the RC180. That UPA-5 is sounds very nice, so I'm leaning towards positioning for that at some point in the future and going with the RC180 for now. How are remote amps triggered to turn on. the 807 has a 12V trigger, but the RC180 doesn't, is that a deal breaker?

Then drop down one model and get the 707 and save more money on this purchase. It does have a trigger and gets good reviews also. Check out Newegg on Saturday for either the 807 or 707.
post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 
I somehow over looked the 707, thanks for pointing that one out. One additional question though, by the 12V Trigger spec on Onkyo's comparison page it says "(Zone 2)", does that mean that the trigger would only be enabled when the receiver activates Zone 2? Obviously that wouldn't work as the amp would be used for my primary.
post #11 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLMsv View Post

I somehow over looked the 707, thanks for pointing that one out. One additional question though, by the 12V Trigger spec on Onkyo's comparison page it says "(Zone 2)", does that mean that the trigger would only be enabled when the receiver activates Zone 2? Obviously that wouldn't work as the amp would be used for my primary.

The trigger will work.
post #12 of 14
Thread Starter 
Throwing out another option, it looks like I could get a nice used SR805 for $400 or less, any reason to rule out that option? It looks like it has all of my critical features.
post #13 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLMsv View Post

Throwing out another option, it looks like I could get a nice used SR805 for $400 or less, any reason to rule out that option? It looks like it has all of my critical features.

If that thing is working properly, jump on it. You will not need amps for it ever. Its almost the same as my 876 with the difference being the video processor in my 876 being better but also unused. The 805 is considered by many to be one of the best ever made. The only problem may be the firmware in it. It needs a speacial "dongle" to do firmware upgrades or has to be sent to a certified repair shop for the most current firmware. Check with whom ever you are purchasing from about firmware. Otherwise it is a beast. 56lbs of power and connectivity. Its passed all the test.
post #14 of 14
Thread Starter 
Well, I ended up getting an 805 for $475 shipped. Which from what I can tell is still a pretty good deal! Thanks for all the input!
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