*Official* Denon AVR-1911/791 & AVR-2311CI/891 Owner's Thread - Page 161

The distances are usually pretty good. Remember for the sub, it is measuring delay so it might be a little more than your normal distance. I would verify the main speakers are set to small if using a subwoofer, and double check the crossovers for the mains. The generally state to use 80 as the crossover for your mains unless you have speakers with great frequency response...

@ Vader --- Audyssey actually does nothing with channel integration beyond calibrating the system (levels + delays) and matching each speaker tonally to the designated "target curve". But it doesn't do anything with respect to "integration" as I think you are saying, i.e. trying to optimize the crossover region. To do so it would require measuring the speakers' combined responses, and the AVR manufacturers have not allowed Audyssey to implement this technology. As such, all it can do is measure each speaker, time align (set delay) and level match, and create EQ filters for each channel. However, that said, the results it spits out are typically "optimal" for the end user and unless you have some measuring gear and expertise, you are just as likely to do harm as good if you try to futz around afterwards with distance/delay settings.

The only reason to tweak the sub distance is if there is a phase issue at the crossover point causing a "dip" in the response at the crossover. Some users have reported superior results by adjusting the sub distance to improve the "splice" at the crossover region. Again, however, this is only really possible with measuring gear and if you know what you are doing. If so, there are a couple of great documents detailing the process here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/795421/official-audyssey-thread-faq-in-post-1/5700#post_14456895

Thanks for the replys!

It sounds great as is, so (despite my weakness for tweaking), I will just leave it as-is. Eventually, I will upgrade to XT32, but my display is next up on the "But Honey..." list...

Hello,

This is my first post, I found this forum looking for the specs of the DAC that my 2311 has.

In the future I will ask a few things that I'ms searching for...but before i will read the 161 pages...Right now I'm on the 10...151 to go

Cheers

^^
Much quicker to just check Denon's website ....

I'm hitting this issue as well with my new Samsung TV. I have the 2311ci.

I get the issue but don't understand the workarounds.

I ran an optical cable from TV back to the 2311 and that works. I moved the HDMI from 2311 sat/cbl (my FIOS box) to a non ARC input on the Samsung. If I turn of HDMI-CEC (anyconnect) on the Samsung I can't get the audio to come out of the 2311 anymore. I can only get it out of the Samsung speaker. Is there some setting on the 2311 that will let me play the audio out of the 2311?

Basically I want my 2311 to play my fios sound always and never use my Samsung TV speaker. The only way I can get this to work is by using HDMI-CEC but then I hit the issue where the Samsung automatically switches the source to TV.

What am I missing?

Perhaps some of the confusion lies with the fact that although ARC can apply to external devices connected to the TV, it primarily is used for the on board network sources available on the TV (eg. Netflix, Hulu, Vudu, Pandora, etc.) in order to pass that audio from the TV to the AVR. However, with an external device like your Fios box you're generally going to want to connect an audio cable directly from it to the AVR. In this case to avoid HDMI handshake issues from the Fios box, connecting HDMI from the box to the TV for the video and an optical cable from "the box" to the AVR for the surround audio.

Thanks for the quick response. I've now got that working, just need to program my remote to turn the box, AVR and TV on with one button.

The only issue I'm having now is I've seemed to have lost the ability to get the GUI menu for the AVR to show on the Samsung. I have a WII hooked up to the TV as well and I think that occupies the lone video port so that may be the issue but not sure.

I kept the HDMI with ARC hooked between the AVR and TV so I can send sound back to the AVR for streaming apps and thought that might be able to carry the GUI screen to the TV as well.

I've always been confused as to what drives getting the GUI signal on the TV and I hate using the menu on the AVR itself. Any ideas on how to get this working again?

Actually just tested the ARC functionality for sending audio back to the AVR when streaming and its not working because now my FIOS audio is used by OPT1 on the TV source. But now I think the ARC is also trying to send back audio to the TV source as well.

This is getting more complicated and I'm getting more confused.

When a device is connected directly to the TV for video, there is no GUI menu as in order for the GUI to display the video must pass through the AVR. If your FIos box doesn't have any handshake issues connected directly to the AVR then give that a try if you want the GUI to appear. So then when using ARC to play back audio from the TV, there is also no GUI as there is no video going to the AVR, rather just audio.


If the ARC feature is set up correctly, the audio should override the optical TV input, although when using ARC, there's no reason for the Fios box to be ON anyway so keep it off.

I've finally figured out a good place for my set up given the Samsung Anynet to Denon quirks in case anyone cares or hits this scenario in the future with a new Samsung purchase.

The issue cropped up when I replaced a Sony tv with a Samsung UN60ES7150. Anynet seems to be tied to ARC functionality and Anynet was forcing a source switch to TV on the Denon 10 seconds after powering up. I didn't experience this issue with the Sony tv

My solution after playing around with various ideas and connections is to abandon Anynet and ARC altogether. I have FIOS and currently use that to watch content 95% of the time.

- I have my Fios remote programmed to turn on the Fios box, Denon and Samsung with one button press.
- I have my Fios remote set to always and only control the Denon volume. All audio regardless of the source will run through my Denon
- On the Samsung Anynet is turned OFF
- On the Samsung Sound is set to External Speaker
- On the Denon HDMI Control is set to OFF
- On the Denon TV Source is set to Opt 1

My set up is this...

OUT <==========>IN
Fios <== HDMI===>Denon
Blu Ray <==HDMI==> Denon
Wii <==RCA==> Denon
Denon <==HDMI==> Samsung (one HDMI out caries all 3 video signals to Samsung... FIOS, Blu Ray and Wii)
Samsung <==optical audio==> Denon (replaces ARC functionality to get sound to Denon from anything streamed from TV)

I lose the automatic functionality of Anynet (CEC) and ARC but I am not annoyed by having the source switched every time I power up. Yes I need to do extra work to play a Blu Ray or Wii by having to change the Denon source myself but all video is HDMI through Denon to Samsung and I just have the one extra optical for audio back from Samsung to Denon for Streaming (or when I have a PC or camcorder connected to the TV). And the biggest thing for my family is they only need to use one remote, the Fios remote, to turn everything on and watch TV with one button press.

For me this is the best I can do right now as the automatic source switching would not fly with my family. Hopefully Samsung with add flexibility into a future firmware release to make Anynet more configurable.

I've been trying to get some assistance from Chris at Audyssey, but apparently they've got him off of responding to user needs and on to research. Here was my question:

I own the aforementioned Denon AVR-791 that I purchased used, but in great shape. Along with the receiver, I received the Audyssey microphone. I’ve had no problems with the receiver in terms of sound quality, video output, or anything else…other than problems with Audyssey.

I’ve run the Audyssey test over and over and over and 99% of the time, never got through the test. The typical result is that it says “no speakers found” which is incorrect, as I hear the audible chirps.

One time, it “finished” the initial setup, and said one of my fronts was out of phase, which is also not true. I quadruple checked all speaker connections, and also ran a phase test using a Home Theater setup disc.

I borrowed another Audyssey DM-A409 mic from Best Buy. No real change with it, either…same outcome…no speakers found.

I could purchase a new mic on EBAY for $20, but it seems unlikely to me that this is a mic problem. What do you think?

Is this common with Denon receivers? Could this be an Audyssey jack problem on the receiver? Should a I do a microprocessor reset on the Denon? How likely is that to help? Any other suggestions for testing the mic?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Yes, do a microprocessor reset. Also note that as indicated in the Owner's manual, once speaker wire connections are visually confirmed to be wired correctly, you can simply SKIP the Phase error warning and move on to the next set of speakers.

I did the microprocessor reset...and ran Audyssey setup 6 times. Each time, I got the "No Speaker or No Mic found" error. What now? Can I test the microphone somehow....like hooking it up to a recording device to see if sound can be recorded?

When I insert the Audyssey plug into the reciever, it does say "Audyssey setup"...so the receiver knows that something is being inserted. Could I try running the test with a different microphone...like a handheld?

Didn't you already try a different microphone with the same result? That would pretty much rule out the mic as the culprit and points instead to a hardware issue with the unit, possibly the jack itself is defective.

Hi ejohanss,it may or may not solve your issue but try blowing compressed air into the headphone jack.

So then, you're getting the test tone out of the speakers at least? Insert the mic into the mic jack of a PC sound card or laptop and test that it is picking up audio. If yes, more than likely the AVR is defective.

I have an AVR 791 with 5.1 setup, I recently replaced my paradigm monitor 9v2 speakers with Bose 201 series for my fronts, I wanted to add 2 more speakers to make this 7.1 functional, not sure what wattage should I look for. The specs basically get me confused, they are 125 X 7 @ 8 ohms ( Are these RMS ) , in the speaker specs what should I looks for so that they are able to handle this power, basically I am looking seriously at Klipsch bookshelf Speaker (B10) or Klipsch bookshelf Speaker (B20) specially since they are on sale at bestbuys and have decent reviews. Would either of these be able to handle the power from my receiever ? and or can you guys recommend me some speaker for the surrounds ?
Thanks for all your replies.

I don't understand. You replaced Paradigm speakers with Bose (why?) and now you are looking at Klipsch?

Don't worry about wattage. Get good speakers that match each other, fit your budget and room, and sound good to you. If possible, all of your speakers should be from the same brand and (ideally) from the same product line to get as close a tonal match as possible.

I am in the process to upgrade my TV and I was bored with the floor standing speakers which I had for few years. It gives back my floor space, I tried these Bose out and I liked the sound. My understading is Klipsch have a nice and crisp sound.
But I see your comment about the brand of speakers which is why I had all the fronts including the sub, paradigm's, do you think I am better off with another set of the BOSE bookshelf ?

If you like the sound of the Bose speakers, then, yes, you should use Bose speakers for the rest of the setup as well if at all possible. Tonal match is an important aspect of a good HT setup. The subwoofer doesn't need to "match" the other speakers though, so if you are happy with the current Paradigm sub stick with that.

Thanks batpig,. I am getting another set in of Bose 201 series V speakers based on your suggestion.

Hi,
I dug out my SNES, and not having success connecting it. It was my understanding that the 2311 could convert composite IN(video) to HDMI OUT?

I have it connected to the DVD input (video). The DVD input is assigned "1-RCA". and the video composite is in the composite input of the DVD. There are no other source assigned to DVD. I get audio, but no video. I've looked in the manual, p.46 but am no further ahead.

Still in the Input Setup menu, under Video, Video Select is set to TV. Whe set to Source, the GUI disappear(?). I don't understand as all the other input, this option is set to Source

do I need a composite to come out of my receiver to the tv?

thanks
Edited by jproy13 - 3/11/13 at 4:38am

would someone help to confirm my Audio Return Channel setup? I'm not even sure if my TV supports it but wanted to give it a try

in the HDMI setup menu I already have HDMI control set to ON

do I need to do anything on the Input Assign menu?

when clicked on HDMI for TV I get the following message




Thanks!

That is correct, when HDMI Control is on the TV input is "locked in" expecting either an ARC feed (HDMI) or a digital audio feed from the digital output of the TV. You can't assign an HDMI INPUT to it because the HDMI feed from ARC comes back via the OUTPUT to the TV.

After, that, it's all up to the settings on the TV.

Note that the composite inputs are not assignable, the "1-RCA" refers to the COMPONENT video input, not the composite. I would make sure nothing else is assigned to the DVD input (e.g. change that to "None") and make sure the SNES composite is plugged into the one labeled "DVD" if you are trying to use the DVD name. Also of course make sure Video Conversion and the i/p scaler is turned on.

The Video Select sounds like the problem, leave it on "Source". That tells the receiver to use the video from the source actually assigned to that name. If you switch the Video Select setting to "TV" it is expecting the video to come from the source connected/assigned to the "TV" input, not the DVD input.

So make sure:

- all composite connections are hooked up to the "DVD" input labels
- all Input Assign settings are set to "None" for DVD
- Video Conversion is ON and i/p scaler is set to "Analog" and "Auto" resolution for the DVD input
- Video Select for the DVD input is set to "Source"

With these settings it SHOULD work and convert the DVD composite feed to HDMI output at 1080p. If it STILL doesn't work, then it might just be that the old composite video from the SNES isn't compatible with the conversion. There is a note in the manual that the video conversion function may not work for certain old game systems and other old sources.

You might want to test the settings by using a different source, e.g. try hooking up a DVD player or a cable box with composite video to the "DVD" input and see if it converts successfully to HDMI output. If they work, and the SNES doesn't work with the same settings, then you know it's some fundamental incompatibility with SNES video.

Hello. I'm contemplating a used AVR 1911 on CL for $250/obo. My concern being several Amazon user reviews complaining of this receiver just losing power/quitting working after a year or 18 months.

I currently have an AVR 2307ci being fed by optical audio from sources, HDMI video direct to Sammy UN55EH6070, I want to be running several HDMI 1.4 into a receiver and experience full 7.1 sound arrays. Any alternate low-buck solutions or affirmations about the 1911's longevity and merit are appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Snellcomp

Samsung UN55EH6070
Denon AVR-2307ci
Panasonic DMP-BDT320
DirecTV HR24-200
Polk Audio 4x RM75S 1x RM75C
Acoustic Research 2x 218V
Polk Audio PSW125
Logitech 880

I wouldn't be concerned about a few Amazon review, every model will have some defects but the xx11's seem to be normal in terms of overall reliability.

It will be a nice upgrade from the 2307 as the Dynamic EQ/Volume additions will improve sound quality and the 3D support of course is important to you. I'd try and bargain down closer to $200 though.

My 2311 has been running every day now for almost 3 years.

Thanks for replying. I'm guessing that the SNES and the Denon will never get married.

I've selected none for all the input assigned for the dvd source. Video select is to source and video convert is on. This combo causes the GUI to disappear. If I change video convert to off, the GUI comes back.

If I keep video convert to on but select tv as the source, the GUI appears but smaller. Weird. Still no image though. The correct connection is used at the back of the 2311.

I will test another composite source later

Again, thank you for your time
Edited by jproy13 - 3/11/13 at 2:32pm