*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 391 / 591 / 1611 Owner's Thread - Page 114

Ok weird minor thing going on. Everytime i turn on my system the video keeps switching in 2 or 3 second intervals. One second i see the menu for my PS3, the next it goes black. And it keeps going back and forth. To fix it, i have to turn off the AVR 591 but leave the tv and ps3 on. When i turn on the avr again its fixed and i see my ps3 home menu. Is there a particular order i'm supposed to turn everything on? I know everything is hooked up right, so how can i permanetly solve this?

Unfortunately it's still not working. Going to have to buy a new one.

^^
That was to be expected though considering you had to replace the ATT boxes.

The generally recommended power on order to minimize HDMI handshake is TV, then AVR, then source (eg. PS3). You also may want to try the HDMI reset procedure listed below:

a. While the PS3 is on, disconnect HDMI cable from TV
b. Turn off power to all devices (OFF, not in standby, so pull power plug from 591)
c. Disconnect HDMI cable from the PS3 to AVR at both ends
d. Wait 2 minutes
e. Reconnect all HDMI cables
f. Apply power to TV, then AVR, then PS3

I have an AVR-1911 in my main area, and recently had the opportunity to pick up a AVR-591BA (Receiver/Boston Accoustics 5.1 pkg) display model at Best Buy for $209, that I now use in my den.

I gotta say, this is a good little 5.1 receiver, and the Audyssey setup is terrific. If you don't need a 7.1 or multi-zone capabilities, the 591 performs well.

Yeah..lol I knew that when I posted there was going to be very little hope but it was worth the try. Now I can officially count it out; although it'll still be used for audio in another room.

Just curious, doesn't your homeowner's insurance cover this?

Have had my 1611 for almost 7 months now, great unit, actually got it for the same price as the 591 model, I think though my subwoofer is underpowered, most times it runs great but when there is loud or strong bass it almost sounds as the cone is going to break, kind of like flapping, it is a 6" sony powered sub woofer 100watts, any suggestions.

Get a better quality and larger sub .. minimum of 10" and if in a larger room get 2 of them or a 12". Check the speakers/sub forum for various suggestions based on your budget. The Velodyne Impact-10 and ed A2-300 would both be good choices.

Thanks, I thought it was underpowered but it was free so i can't complain right now, I have been researching paragdigms as they are the brand i prefer but warfdales are looking decent also.

Also check out lava subs in that catagory. Discount for a vs forum members

I recently got a 1611, I have it connected to my Cable box and to my HTPC via Hdmi, with receiver out to the TV.
Installation and calibration went flawlessly, including the reprogramming of my Harmony remote.

Now it looks like in order for Hdmi pass through to work, I have to turn on Hdmi Control, which I wanted to avoid in order to save power ( I read 3W versus 0.1W).

Is that the way it is or is there a way to get Passthrough with Hdmi Control turned Off?

Thanks you

Yup .. that's the way it is .. although 3W amounts to about $5 extra per year.

Bass setting on my AVR-591. I do not have a sub yet so for now I have the receiver set to "large" front speakers. They are JBL N26ii which arent really that big. What should my bass on the receiver be set to? Right now its at 80hz. Does the higher the hz mean more bass? I dont want to ruin my speakers. I just need them to hold me off until I buy my sub.

^^
The 591 "LPF for LFE" setting should be set to 120hz. The best thing to do is to limit the master volume until you get your sub.

Now that we are on the subject, what should the center and rears frequency be to acheive the best HD sound? I have a JBL N-Center and JBL N-24's as the rears

Whatever AUTO SETUP set them too.

Ok just got my new speakers in. Ran audessey for the new set up, fronts sound great, sub sounds awesome, rears sound great as well. Problem is that the center sounds way too low, dialog only scenes have to have the volume turned up then once an action scene comes on i have to lower back down. Anyway around this? Also i read that front speaker size settings should be set to small if using a sub, is there any truth to this? After auddessey ran it set them to large.

^^
If you are referring to cable/sat dialog issues, you can set the Reference Level Offset setting (p. 44) to 10 or 15. You can also simply bump up the center channel a few db using the CH Level button on the remote rather than raising the master volume for all speakers. For movies you may also want to set Dyn Volume to ON to keep loud explosions at bay.

Yes, set your front mains to SMALL and raise the crossover up to 80hz which will push the heavy lifting off to the sub and give the 591 more headroom for your speakers.

jdsmoothie gave you a concise response, but I wanted to expound upon this particular issue.

I discovered when watching some Blu-rays, I was constantly having to fiddle with the master volume. While other Blu-rays remained stable, and I didn't have to touch the master volume. I had been leaving Dynamic Volume off for Blu-rays. After receiving some sound advise from jdsmoothie and batpig, I believe the term they used was, "...if you're having to fiddle with the master volume, use Dynamic Volume...". This is a huge indicator that Dynamic Volume will help you. As a result, I didn't have to mess with the center channel output as it was fine in most situations. Everything is perfect with just a simple toggle of Dynamic Volume (the "Day" setting works best for me).

Additionally, as jdsmoothie suggested, setting the Reference Level Offset to 15 made a huge difference in broadcast television viewing. Whereas previously the bass was working overtime.

These two subtle changes made a world of difference.

Thanks for the help I will try to turn up the setting a couple notches on the center channel volume and give dynamic volume a try as well. I will set the fronts as small speakers and raise crossover to 80hz as JDsmoothie suggested. Even though im not exactly sure what crossover means

Thank you !

When you change the FL/FR speakers to SMALL w/80hz crossover, the Denon will direct all the FL/FR audio signal below 80hz to the sub which is better able to handle it especially as it has it's own amp and the lower frequencies require the most power to process. Doing this takes that load off of the AVR and gives it more headroom to power the other speakers.

Dear Friends:

Just a newbie easy question...would that 25watts difference of the Klipsch over the Denon may affect my AVR??
I use to watch action movies quite loud...less than -5dB relative volume.

Thanks! (I haven't bought the Klipsch yet but love them as they sounded in an Onkyo (100W) and I may get a pair quite cheap in Dominican Republic!).
I am a MD and I rarely will use for music but for HD movies as I said before.
Does anybody have these speakers with a 591?

Thankas in advance!!

Don Mich

Ahhh forgot to say...I have actually a Klipsch RB51 bookshelf (100w) which sound terrific....would you think is it worthy to switch to the RF??
Ok, I should be the one who should know, but at 55 is difficult to discern...but I found them brigther than the RB....they have more watts and better and broader Freq Resp.
Sensibility 1db more which I think wouldn't be detected by my ears...

Thanks

Donmich

^^
The max power of a speaker is really of no consequence especially as those speakers are very efficient (96db) and for the majority of the time will be using only a 1W or 2W of power. The 591 will be fine in a small/med sized room.

Hi all, I have an issue I need to resolve and need your help.
I got the Denon AVR 591ba HTIB about 3 months ago and have it connected via a HDMI cable to my PC. My video card is ATI Radeon 6950 and until a couple of days ago I was able to play movies, games, etc on my PC and run them through the receiver to my HDTV set up as a second monitor. Sound and video was all HD and all was good until the day before yesterday. We had a severe thunderstorm here and I unplugged my whole set up from the wall. When I plugged everything back on the next day, my PC could no longer detect the Receiver. The device (in Windows Playback devices) is saying: "Not plugged in". For two days I have tried everything to make it work: reinstall drivers, unplug and plug all HDMI cables to the PC, to the Receiver, to the TV... I followed the instructions above to unplug all components from the wall and so forth. Nothing! My PC is still unable to detect the receiver. A thing I noticed is when I select the source for my PC signal (I have it at BD) the "H=HDMI1/None" message displays briefly on the receiver. I also tried the cable with another input and it seems to be transferring signal. I am completely out of ideas and really frustrated.
Does anyone have an idea what might be the culprit and how to fix it. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Todor

^^
Does the PC work when connected directly to the TV? Sounds like you may have not unplugged the PC in time. Do you have another PC you can test with?

Make sure that your tv hdmi active link is still connected. The Denon defaults to tv setting, if you have had a power failure or other service disruption, you may need to reconnect you tv to the avr.

Im just wondering, but I have a question specifically for the Denon 1611, it might apply to other receivers. I don't what technique or what specification they base thier rating on but here it goes. The 1611 claims to output 75watts per channel at a impedance of 8ohm...

however is where my confusion is,

At 6ohm, the denon claims to output 110watts per channel (Got it from the manual). I thought impedance was linear, which in that case, based on math, would mean that if the amp can ouput 75watts at 8ohm, than at 6ohm, it would output 100watts, not 110watts as it claims...or is the 110 based on a different frequency range? Where are they getting 110 watts from?