Like so many others, I have been inspired by the craftsmanship and in depth knowledge of this avs community. I have been itching since I moved in December to finish my basement and I will officially start construction in June.
Some details on my HT room dimensions and my initial thoughts::
- Location: Daylight basement
- Rough room dimensions: 16' wide x 40' long
- 9 foot basement ceiling
- 120" wide Seymour AT Center Stage XD DIY screen w/ 2.35.1 aspect ratio; will also be used as a 90" wide 1.78.1 screen
- Panasonic AE4000u
- Triad Silver LCRs Inwalls behind AT screen (no false wall)
- 7.1 surround sound (Inwalls for surround; Inceiling for rears)
- 10 inch tall 8' x 6' riser
- Seating arrangement: 2 rows of 3
- A/V closet under stairs
- Expected use: 50% time for movies; 30% for tv; 20% for music listening
- 1.5" XPS for underground exterior walls
- Dricore or Delta FL + 5/8" T&G subfloor
- Replace glass lited exterior door with a solid wood door
- Window treatment (blinds + draperis)
I am by no means an audiophile. In fact, I thought my previous low-end 5.1 Infinity based (RS3 bookshelf fronts, CC3 center channel, powered by a Sony Reciever) home theatre system sounded quite good . My main objective is to reproduce the movie experience at home while preserving the open-ness of my basement so that this entire area can be used for entertaining. Please note that I do not wish to subdivide my home theatre area for the sake of creating a state-of-the art sound environment.
Any feedback or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! See my attachments below for actual photos of the proposed home theatre area and for a visualization of my initial thoughts for the entire basement.
Thank you in advance....
At the time of this post, best pratices for insulating exterior walls included the installation of Polystyrene foam panels (XPS) as well as unfaced fiberglass batt insulation. From what I have gathered it is still advantegous to install a vapor barrier on framed exterior walls (typically the walls on the walk-out side of a basement). [indent]XPS: Main motivation for using this stuff is to increase energy efficiency (adds R value of your walls) and to prevent warm air from reaching cooler concrete and condensing. Moisture in a wall cavity can result in mold developing. XPS is moisture resistant, not water-proof.
- I chose greenguard because that was the only 1" product that was readily available in in my area.
- 1" - 2". Some believe that 1" is not thick enough to control moisture. Others believe that 2" does not breathe sufficiently. 1.5" appears to be a happy median. I chose 1" for my installation.
Where to buy:
- Home Depot
- Stock Building Supply
- Jarco Supply (local company)
Rigid Foam Adhesive: I purchased some PL300 foam adhesive from Home Depot to attach the rigid foam to my concrete walls.
Amount Needed: 1 tube per 4x8 sheet
Applying technique: Continous bead across the top edge. Dashed line across the bottom edge. Vertical beads 12" apart. Apply rigid foam board to concrete walls. Remove rigid foam board for 2 minutes to allow the adhesive to become tacky. Re-apply foam to concrete wall. Press foam firmly against concrete wall until glue dries.
- This should be fairly obvious but one should be sure to insulate basement walls to control heat transfer and to deaden sound.
- Check your local building code to determine the appropiate R value for basement walls in your area.
- Make sure you select framing material that will support your desired R value. For instance, R13 requires 2x4 framing. R19 requires 2x6 framing.
I actually thought that I spent way to much time selecting a recess can but that was mainly because I had no experience in this department and there was to much information spread out all over these forums. If you are anal about things you should do your own research, but I narrowed down what I needed to know to the following:
- Size - most prevalent size in HT are 4" and 6" cans
- IC or non-IC - if your recess can will be in contact with insulation you need IC
- Air-tite - helps reduce airflow to the floor above
- New construction or Remodel - pretty obvious but make sure you select the correct one. The new construction variant will have 2 rails that can be nailed to your truss floor joists.
- Bulb preference (Incan/Halogen/LED) - LED is still pretty expensive . If you are using the recess can in your HT, make sure it is dimmable.
Recessed housing manufacturers I considered:
- Halo - H7ICAT
- Commericial Electric -CAT7ICATA
- Seagull Lighting - 1128
My Build Dashboard:
06/04/2010 - Permit approved.
06/11/2010 - HVAC Installed [Contracted].
06/18/2010 - XPS Rigid Foam Installed.
06/23/2010 - Framing Done [Contracted].