Originally Posted by trees415
Ah I see. Would Glidden Universal Grey
be appropriate for my screen? Or should I go with a Behr custom grey tint? Behr is more accessible for me, given I live close to a Home Depot.
Here's a Behr mixture I was considering:
Quart Custom Tint
Behr UPW (1050,1850,4850)
0 6 0 Lamp Black
0 1 0 Brown Oxide
0 0 1 Medium Yellow
If neither of these choices would be good for my situation, what would you suggest that is relatively cheap, cause I can't find instruction on how to make the silver fire 3 that you suggested.
Well, it's like this. A Neutral Gray is a very good option as far as any beginner is concerned. It's cheap, easy to assemble, and won't disappoint anyone who has sufficient lumens
to drive past the normal attenuation that comes with using a reflective surface with a Gain of less than .90
You have to consider this though. Your BOC itself has a gain of just .85 - .9
and any shade of Neutral Gray you choose that has any benefits to offer as far as improving the perception of how deep your Black levels bottom out is going to be .8
or less. That's getting pretty suppressive, "light-wise" and is not going to do much as far as maintaining or even allowing your image to maintain it's "PoP" & "Sizzle".
Over the years recently past ('02 - '08) advances were made utilizing highly reflective particles within both White & Gray base paints to increase both the gain of a screen surface and the directed reflection of projected light. Although that concept is/was not new, the DIY mandate we live under demanded that it be improved upon (ie: both made more effective AND less expensive...)
Considerable resistance coming from those wanting a surface that requires no coating (...a nice idea...) and something ridiculously cheap & easy to use often resulted in many feeling that BOC, or White boards such as laminates or composites where "good enough". And for some, quite frankly they can be and are.
Low expectations don't always come from a lack of desire for quality end results, but more often from a lack of actually knowing just how big a difference can be had. Now, the Almighty Dollar does come into play, as does work ethic, and one cannot fault the individual who needs must restrict his choices due to economic reasons or the inability to apply the time and effort needed to excel at the art of DIY screen making, but sad indeed is the case when someone "could"
have better but falls short due to lack of knowledge...or worse still, poor advice.
Basic Neutral Gray has had it's day, and will still always continue to offer a ultra-low cost and easily accomplished alternative for those who need such.
But for those who aspire to (...or need...) more...and who do not want to settle for less than what they themselves can manage to create, hauling up short by using neutral grays or common white surfaces is not a viable option to consider.
FYI, it's just this sort of difference in opinion that drives a degree of disjointed argument even in today's more congenial DIY Forum atmosphere. And that's because as I just said above, for a new convert, any 100"+ sized image that isn't horribly dim or color shifted into Green or Blue or Red is going to seem to be a vast improvement over smaller displays. If correctly matched to a projector, it can be as good as it possible can be.
When that happens, it's gonna be a tough sell to any DIY'er with a simple Gray screen to convince him he could/should do better. Primarily because to change, he's gonna have to stop watching that big picture and apply himself again to the task of creating a better version of what he has already.
Honestly, very few have seen the difference to the degree and frequency I have, so often I do seem to take it for granted others should know...or in the least understand such variables. It's not productive to try to convince someone is gloriously happy with his N8.0 Gray Screen that he's missing out on better performance. But when it's a case of trying of convince a Noob, I'll do my damnedest to try!
Below is the SF Recipe. the "3.0" designation refers to the amount (ounces) of Colorant added to the Reflective/Viscosity Mix.
Materials available at Michaels Arts & Crafts or most any Artist Supply or Hobby Stores.
Last Updated: July 21st, 2009 Edition:
* use 3 oz. of the 'color components' and add/mix it to the 'base & viscosity components'
30 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601
15 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Silver Metallic #02603
10 oz. Behr Interior UPW Flat #1850 (or Exterior #4050)
6 oz. Folk Art - Champagne Metallic
24 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin Finish @Michaels & Home Depot
16 oz. Distilled or Filtered water
50 ml water to rinse the color pigments from the measuring utensils.
20 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Naphthol Crimson - (PR170)
8 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Phthalocyanine Green - (PG7)
5 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Phthalocyanine Blue
5 ml - Liquitex 'Matt' Basics - Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue (PY 83)
(...Note: The "Matt Basics" often must be ordered online from Dick Blick Art Supplies below because various Michaels stores may not stock them)http://www.dickblick.com/products/li...s/#description
Yeah I found a good source on e-bay for $5.99/yd, which is nice because I have an unused ebay gift card conveniently at my disposal. So, I'm thinking of getting 3 yards of it (108"x45"), then getting some cheap lumber boards and creating equally wide borders with the velvet around the top and sides (2-6"), then making the border at the bottom of the screen a bit bigger then the other sides. This would still leave some exposed white wall, so I was thinking of covering the rest of the wall with some cheap black cloth which I have a ton of that looks relatively nice. This way, I get a nice black border around the whole screen without going overboard with the velvet. And if the velvet and black cloth don't mix well, then I'll get rid of the cloth and make my velvet borders slightly wider.
45" width? That doesn't seem right. Bolts of BV usually come in 48" widths. I hope it's good stuff.
I'd just go ahead and do 2- 6" "Sides" and 2- 14" Top & Bottom runners.
Oh man, I'm excited about this, my girlfriend is probably going to be annoyed when I spend the weekend finishing this baby, but she'll understand when its all done. A sports/video game room during the day, and a movie/shag pad at night.
Just put on a "Twilight" movie and your bound to reap the rewards.
...as far as that "Daytime" viewing, Bro, THAT is where going to the effort to paint a SF 3.0 is gonna satisfy you more than any "Shag". Leastwise, for longer periods of time.
But I'd like to extend my thanks to you MississippiMan, you definitely know your s**t and I appreciate your help a lot. If it wasn't for you, I'd probably be painting my screen with white-out or something stupid like that.
I'll be sure to post pics during/after I do this project.
White-Out? Now why didn't I think of that? Thanks for the Tip!
..........and thanks even more for the compliment. I don't "fish" for compliments, just "Chum" the waters to attract those hungry for a good meal. Satisfied DIY'ers don't often chew your leg off.