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NEW MITSUBISHI HC 9000 : FULL HD, 3D and..... Lcos panels - Page 12

post #331 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

Few more comments on the Mits. It holds its own against my other projectors and the JVCs. Let it be said, everything is good and each projector has pros and cons relative to the others. And remember, I don't value on off as much as some others. I don't use DI's. The stuff I mostly watch doesn't benefit from any DI, good poor or average so I leave them off.

The Mits has bright corners visable under a 0 IRE full screen size window, However, in real viewing the bright corners are unnoticeable. If I didn't tests for this, I would not know that it had bright corners. .



I too don't like using DI's and don't care if it doesn't perform that well on the HC9000, I would rather keep it turned off, the blacks and shadow detail are great without it.

As for the bright corners I never even noticed it until one or two on here mentioned it, you don't notice it when showing a movie and isn't that what its all about, more watching film that running every test under the sun?
Im sure some on proj threads never watch a film
post #332 of 829
Well tonight I am in newbyville. I just got my Mits 3D emitter, one pairs of MITS 3D glasses, am borrowing my wife's cheap 3D Panasonic 3D BluRay which she doesn't use for 3D, and I just purchased Under the Sea, the Grand Canyon Adventure, and Polar Express. Hope they were descent test discs. I can return Polar if its a bad chice. I wanted to own the other two. I buy all the Imax stuff. After the Bulls game, I am going to try and get it all working. Need to read the manuals.
post #333 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
Well tonight I am in newbyville. I just got my Mits 3D emitter, one pairs of MITS 3D glasses, am borrowing my wife's cheap 3D Panasonic 3D BluRay which she doesn't use for 3D, and I just purchased Under the Sea, the Grand Canyon Adventure, and Polar Express. Hope they were descent test discs. I can return Polar if its a bad chice. I wanted to own the other two. I buy all the Imax stuff. After the Bulls game, I am going to try and get it all working. Need to read the manuals.
Mark its simple to use...
I had never used an 3D emitter or glasses before and I didn't even read the manual, just plugged in the emitter, turned the glasses on and up it started 3D in all its glory.
post #334 of 829
Well I can't stop watching it. It's late and I will post more tomorrow. Set it in 3D mode, peal off a lot of plastic on the glasses, turn on the glasses (a one buttton press), plug in and aim the emitter, aiming it is not easy and took a bit of experimentation, the glasses will shut off after awhile if they don't pick up the emitter beam), and enjoy. The 3D is very bright, not dim at all on my 1.78 110" D 1.3 gain Studeotec GII. (a couple of ft back from shortest throw)? Did I say bright. Watching it in 3D in my 2D calibrated mode, it was a little dim but watchable, but in 3D mode, the colors were fine, did I say bright? Amazing, I am hooked. I watched Under the Sea twice. Now watching the Grand Canyon Adventure. Saw a little ghosting with the Intro Credits on Under the Sea where the background was white. No other ghosting in Under the Sea. On a few dark black screens with the credits on Grand Canyon, the bright cornors showed up. Annoying but watching again put them out of my mind. The 3D was much better on Under. There is no 3D in real life on anything that isn't close up and much of the Grand Canyon I watched so far has distance scenes. A lot of 3D artificial effects in the opening credits. Rather tacky. But I need to watch a lot more of it. Post more today morning maybe 10ish. I gotta get me a 3D machine. This Mitsu is really good. Did I say bright?
post #335 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post
Well I can't stop watching it. Itt's late and I will post more tomorrow. Set it in 3D mode, peal off a lot of plastic on the glasses, turn on the glasses (a one buttton press),plug in and aim the emitter, aining it is not easy and took a bit of experimentation, the glasseswill shut off after awhile if they don't pick up the emitter beam), and enjoy. The 3D is very bright, not dim at all on my 1.78 110" D 1.3 gain Studeotec GII. (acouple of ft back from shortest throw. Did I say bright. Whaching it in my 2D calibrated mode it was a little dim but watchable, but in 3D mode, the colors were fine, did I say bright? Amaxing, I am hooked. I watched Under the Sea twice. Now watching the Grand Canyon Adventure. Saw a little ghosting with the Intro Credits on Under the Sea where the background was white. No other ghosting in Under the Sea. On a few dark black screens with the Crddits on Grand Canyon, the bright cormers shpwed up. anoying but watching again put them out of my mind. The 3F was much better on Under. There is no 3D in real life on anything that isn't close up and much of the Grand Canyon I watched so far has distance scenes. A lot of 3D artificial effects in the opening credits. Rather tacky. But I need to watch a lot more of it. Post more today morningm maybe 10ish. I gotta get me a 3D machine. This Mitsu is really good. Did I say bright?
Awesome thanks for the Report..
When i get the extra cash a 9000 is going up in my room..
I cant wait...
post #336 of 829
My wife came home late last night after her weekly Mahjong game with the ladies. Usually, she just goes straight to bed because she gets up at 5:30AM. I said Honey you have to see this. So I dragged here down to the HT, she said this better be quick. Well I fired up the Mitsu, started Under the Sea, turned the glasses on, and all she did was say Wow, OH MY GOD, this is so good. She watched the whole thing. I sat there and watched it in double vision since we have only one pair of glasses. I am off to buy a few more 3D discs before the machine goes off to its lucky new owner. I have to get a 3D machine of my own that's as bright as this one is.
post #337 of 829
Good stuff Mark.

I will have to get a 3D kit for mine...
post #338 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtdking View Post

Good stuff Mark.

I will have to get a 3D kit for mine...

Wish the min throw ratio (1.58) were as small as that of the JVC's and Sony's (1.4).
post #339 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I have to get a 3D machineof my own that's as bright as this one is.

Sounds good, I have a lightly used RS50 that should fit the bill if your interested.. oh wait, it's not going to be 1/2 as bright in 3D as the HC9000 which has a lamp that's only 5watts more than the clunker in my JVC.

How the mighty have fallen when the new kid on the block trumps JVC's empty marketing promises of 1300 lumens (not in a usable mode by any means).

I wish this projector came out at the same time as the JVC's. It's a bummer the CMS isn't working right though. JVC / Mitsubishi should give up trying to make a quality CMS, charge 1.5k less and include a mini3D with the kit.
post #340 of 829
Some more hands on experience:

- Bright corners: right off the start my machine has noticeable bluish bright corners in the lower left and upper right corner. But these vanish completely after around 3 minutes warm up time. During a movie I cannot spot any bright corners anymore regardless of how dark the scene is.
Also the convergence needs a few minutes to click into place. Kind of a CRT feeling....

- 3D: I finally got around to watch "Resident Evil Afterlife". 3D effect was ranging from "ok" to "just wow", especially the interior scene where the VTOL flyer was smashed into the mountain was just jaw dropping for me. Sorry, there is no better word for this.
Regarding the brightness, I feel that all the current projectors like HC9000, X3/RS40 or VW90 are too dim in 3D mode to give a punch similar to 2D mode on a 2,8 meter wide Cheaptrick AT screen (or a 3 meter Screen Research Clearpix where I sampled the X3 and VW90).
So initially I planned to install a second pull down screen for 3D installed nearer to the projector, but for RE: Afterlife I just zoomed the picture to around 2 meters wide and pulled my seat nearer to the picture.
The HC9000 kept the focus even after the zoom down from 2,8m to 2m and back which was nice.

So I will rather focus on a flexible masking instead of installing two screens or making my Cheaptrick movable and pull it nearer to the projector for 3D mode.
post #341 of 829
I am curious how the 9000 compares to the RS40 as far as ghosting is concerned. I would think they would be similar, but maybe not.

Mark, how much ghosting do you get in Grand Canyon on the 9000? Ghosting pops up fairly consistently throughout Grand Canyon on my RS40.
post #342 of 829
Where can I buy the emitter and 3d glasses?
post #343 of 829
how many lamberts does this thing measure in 3d through the glasses? i have heard it is better than the JVCs, but how does it compare to the sharp z17000?
post #344 of 829
AV Science has the Mitsu 3D glasses and emitters in stock. Give us a call.
post #345 of 829
Can anybody recommend a ceiling mount for this projector?
post #346 of 829
Francis. Check you PMs. The Chief RPA-unv, RPMA-unv are listed as working. Chief will make a dedicated plate for this once they get a sample of the projector.
post #347 of 829
this projector seems like it does everything, and i am tempted. i already have some xpand x103 glasses for my plasma. do they work with the hc9000?
post #348 of 829
I have a 40 to test over the weekend in 3d against the 9000. But there are so many settings that can be changed I wonder what any 3D comparison might might mean. Default to default? And the Mitsu has a zillion settings in 3D which can be changed many I am sure that will increase or decrease the observation of ghosting.
post #349 of 829
What's the Canadian MSRP for the 9000?
post #350 of 829
Have any of the current owners changed the 3D settings as discussed in the projector central review:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/mits...nal-Advantages

Shutter Timing Adjustment. The projector incorporates a novel solution to the dual issues of brightness and crosstalk, two problems peculiar to 3D projection. Lack of brightness, caused by the action of the shutter glasses, is inversely proportional to crosstalk, caused by the shutters being open for too much time and accidentally picking up the image intended for the other eye. Fixing one problem tends to increase the other, in other words.

The HC9000D provides an option called 3D Brightness which includes a number of options for shutter timing, ranging from 2.0 to 5.5 milliseconds per eye at half-millisecond intervals. Faster timing decreases both brightness and crosstalk. Slower timing increases brightness, but does the same to crosstalk. The default setting of 4.5 strikes a good balance, though those sensitive to crosstalk might prefer a smaller interval. Crosstalk was visibly increased at the 5.5 setting, though some may prefer it regardless due to the increased brightness involved. My own preferred setting is either 3.5 or 4.0, which reduces brightness in exchange for a more stable picture.
post #351 of 829
I grasped the concept several days ago but there are so many other factors that affect crosstalk there almost is no point. What are we suppose to do. Find one scene that shows cross talk and then change whatever settings we can to eliminate the cross talk. But now the rest of the picture which didn't exhibit any crosstalk is too dim. I find turning the crontrol down to 2, makes things really dim but raising up to say 3.5 is fine and going to above 3.5 doesn't really change perceived brightness. Cross talk? I am not going to waist my time trying to see it. If I see it, I will try lowering the control a tad.
post #352 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Have any of the current owners changed the 3D settings as discussed in the projector central review:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/mits...nal-Advantages

Shutter Timing Adjustment. The projector incorporates a novel solution to the dual issues of brightness and crosstalk, two problems peculiar to 3D projection. Lack of brightness, caused by the action of the shutter glasses, is inversely proportional to crosstalk, caused by the shutters being open for too much time and accidentally picking up the image intended for the other eye. Fixing one problem tends to increase the other, in other words.

The HC9000D provides an option called 3D Brightness which includes a number of options for shutter timing, ranging from 2.0 to 5.5 milliseconds per eye at half-millisecond intervals. Faster timing decreases both brightness and crosstalk. Slower timing increases brightness, but does the same to crosstalk. The default setting of 4.5 strikes a good balance, though those sensitive to crosstalk might prefer a smaller interval. Crosstalk was visibly increased at the 5.5 setting, though some may prefer it regardless due to the increased brightness involved. My own preferred setting is either 3.5 or 4.0, which reduces brightness in exchange for a more stable picture.

Very interesting and wish the JVCs had this feature. Of course with DLP you dont need this which is what I keep coming back to in my mind and why DLP is the 3d display tech of choice for anyone serious about 3d movies/games. The problem with ghosting (for me at least) is that the more 3d I watch the more I pick up on ghosting no matter if I am actively looking for it or not. I was the same way with vertical banding on my LCD projectors and RBE to an extent with single chip DLP. This does sound like a cool feature though and would make a title like Patagonia watchable for me at least on the 40 if it had it.
post #353 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I have a 40 to test over the weekend in 3d against the 9000.

I'd be more interested in a 2D comparison.
post #354 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I have a 40 to test over the weekend in 3d against the 9000. But there are so many settings that can be changed I wonder what any 3D comparison might might mean. Default to default? And the Mitsu has a zillion settings in 3D which can be changed many I am sure that will increase or decrease the observation of ghosting.

That will be a bit tough to compare. I would think default to default would be the best way to go, and then after that if you wanted to tweak the 9000 to see how much better it could get over the 40 would be interesting to see. It would be cool if you had a 17000 to throw in the comparison as well (do you have one by chance?).
post #355 of 829
I am only go to play with it a bit. Its really nice out, my birthday is tomorrow, I will be 26years olds (plus another 40). Dinner out tonight with ny wife and a family party tomorrow but I will watch a bit on both machines. Once again, I think there really is no optimization re ghosting. Say you see ghosting on the opening titles but that's it. No ghosting in the content. What do you want me to do. Eliminate the ghosting in the introduction and watch everything dim or just live with the opening ghosting. Obviously, if one sees a lot of ghosting, one needs to adjust the shutters to open for a lesser time but this really will be source content dependent and viewer sensitivity dependent.
post #356 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I am only go to play with it a bit. Its really nice out, my birthday is tomorrow, I will be 26years olds (plus another 40). Dinner out tonight with ny wife and a family party tomorrow but I will watch a bit on both machines. Once again, I think there really is no optimization re ghosting. Say you see ghosting on the opening titles but that's it. No ghosting in the content. What do you want me to do. Eliminate the ghosting in the introduction and watch everything dim or just live with the opening ghosting. Obviously, if one sees a lot of ghosting, one needs to adjust the shutters to open for a lesser time but this really will be source content dependent and viewer sensitivity dependent.

I understand what you are saying. If you are not seeing ghosting in the main content, there is nothing to compare or worry about. If I was ONLY seeing ghosting in the opening titles, I would not even be on this forum right now since it would be a non issue at that point for me. The problem is many of us are seeing ghosting in the main content to some degree depending on the title (for me this ranges from VERY light to VERY heavy) with our non DLP projectors. I would love to be at your house not only to see this particular 40 (I am wondering if there is unit to unit variation and/or if low hours make ghosting less noticeable) but to compare with the 9000 on some titles that have ghosted heavily for me on my 40 such as Despicable Me, Dinosaurs Giants Of Patagonia, 7 Wonders Of the Solar System, Open Season, and Grand Canyon to name a few. I would also love to throw up a few games or 120hz content since the RS40 is terrible with this type of media as far as ghosting goes from what I have seen. I am curious if the 9000 is any better and if so, how much.

Having said all that, **** the comparison and just go and enjoy your B-Day! Happy B-Day and have fun!
post #357 of 829
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

I would love to be at your house not only to see this particular 40 (I am wondering if there is unit to unit variation and/or if low hours make ghosting less noticeable) but to compare with the 9000 on some titles that have ghosted heavily for me on my 40 such as Despicable Me, Dinosaurs Giants Of Patagonia, 7 Wonders Of the Solar System, Open Season, and Grand Canyon to name a few. I would also love to throw up a few games or 120hz content since the RS40 is terrible with this type of media as far as ghosting goes from what I have seen. I am curious if the 9000 is any better and if so, how much.

It's a bummer there aren't any solid reviews discussing the ghost variances between the 90, 40/50/60, Sharp & the new HC9000. This was the biggest year with 3D announcements from all 4 manufacturers and most reviews regarding 3D (movies & gaming) are just passing comments from owners with no other reference to compare it against.

imo, once you see the 3D DLP, any ghosting will stand out like a sore thumb like it does on my 40/50 (especially with a bright 2.8HP screen). As my lamp has dimmed on the 50, the ghosting is more persistent. The theory is that the panels aren't getting as warm due to the reduced wattage and the ghosting is more prevalent like it is when it's firsted turned on.

Since the HC9000 panels are from Sony, I'd like to know if the HC9000 ghosts less than the Sony 90. Does the HC9000 ghost during the first 1/2 hour then reduce like the JVC's?

damn the Sharp for having such absurd mounting restrictions. If this projector had lens shift, I would have bought one the first day it was released. I want to see 1080P 3D with zero ghosting.
post #358 of 829
I mounted a Sharp on my skate board so I don't have one of those lying around. Alas just a Vango, Samsung SP-A900B, a JVC RS 40 and a Mits HC 9000D. Toe I will watch Despicable Me again and look for the ghosting, also I will watch Grand Canyon on both again.
post #359 of 829
Sounds good Mark, thanks. By the way, I hope it was a nice skate board for a nice Sharp like that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post


imo, once you see the 3D DLP, any ghosting will stand out like a sore thumb like it does on my 40/50 (especially with a bright 2.8HP screen). As my lamp has dimmed on the 50, the ghosting is more persistent. The theory is that the panels aren't getting as warm due to the reduced wattage and the ghosting is more prevalent like it is when it's firsted turned on.

You hit the nail on the head here. This is a big part of my problem with the ghosting I am seeing. Ever since viewing that Acer at my friends house and seeing how much more engaging ghost free 3d is, it makes the ghosting I am seeing even worse and much more noticeable!
post #360 of 829
Last night at 10:30 I started comparing the HC9000 to the RS40. I watched portions of both Despicable Me and the Grand Canyon Adventure on the HC9000D again. L really looked for ghosting on DM and just didn't see any. On the Grand Canyon I saw it on a rather frequent basis. But I had to look for it and focus on certain objects rather than take in the entire scene. I then switched to the RS40 but I couldn't find my JVC glasses, just the Mits pair and I couldn't get thre Mits glasses to work with the JVC emitter. So its off to my stoire to get a pair of the JVC glasses. I did take a pair home a few weeks aho but I can't find them. Anyone, I watched Burlesque on the RS40, just set the thing to Cinema mode and watched. Really enjoyed the movie. Great sound and lots of rich colors. No question the picture is softer than say the Mits. Just not as sharp but it only suffers in comparison, not standing alone.
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