OFFICIAL Sony STR-DN1010 3D-Ready HDMI 1.4 Receiver Thread - Page 2

The manual states TDM-BT1/BT10. Heck, even just now their web page for the DN1010 is still stating BT support. Wonder what gives?

Anyways, take a peek on eBay for the TDM-BT10. Couple there for around $115 -$130 shipped from Japan. Probably best to verify with Sony Techs that the TDM-BT10 is "actually' compatible --and== meets your needs beforehand though considering your experiences to date.

There's also the TDM-NC1 Digital Media Port Wi-Fi Client but the reviews on the linked SonyStyle page are less than glowing of the M-Crew Server software. Caveat emptor applies here I'd guess.

To my req above, I may have got it sorted. Not much time on the work days to verify it is but the weekend is again nearly upon us.

ps:

random818, those HDMI 1 -4 buttons you mentioned. Thanks!

I believe that may have sorted it for me.

Typical manuals. No mention of their actual function other than some vague references that sure don't resemble their usage for standby passthrough.

Again, I do believe that has eased the strain on my family life. I'll post my findings this weekend.

I just got this receiver and Im having the weirdest problem. I have my comcast HD DVR connected to it via HDMI and then receiver is connected via HDMI to the TV. Simple right? Everything works great but for some reason i get no sound on commercials. Well not all commercials but most. The sound will just stop at the start of commercial and then come back on when its over. I know some people consider this a feature but its highly annoying. Ive also seen it happen on certain TV shows where when it goes to the credit sequence the sound will just stop and then come back on at the next show.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? I also tried using a digital coax cable from dvr to receiver and had it to use that for sound but there was no difference.

Wow, I can't believe the lack of interest in this receiver. I need to decide on a model today (sale ends today) and this model came up as the best value.

I was mostly set on getting the Onkyo HT-RC260 (basically identical to the TX-SR608 minus THX and a couple of minor features). The main competitor in the same price range is the Pioneer VSX-920.

Then today I noticed the Sony STR-DN1010 for $100 less than the Pioneer and $140 less than the Onkyo, yet apparently it competes with the Onkyo TX-SR608 and VSX-1020.

I'm afraid there might not be enough feedback to go with the STR-DN1010 though. I would prefer to save the money and go with the Sony, but the CNET review wasn't very promising and there is a major lack of interest here on AVSforum.

I have a Sony KDL-46V3000 TV and PS3 so I thought it would make a nice match.

I would choose this receiver even for $250

Well, I just grabbed an HX800 TV and I'll probably end up getting one of these, too...which sucks since I have a DN1000 right now, but can't get any of the 3D items to work via the receiver.
I'm going to sell my DN1000 and hopefully get enough to take a lot off of the price of one of these.

Other than the HDMI 1.4 functionality, is it pretty much just like the DN1000 when it comes to the interface? Any chance it'll do 1080p upscaling for the Wii?

What about an hdmi splitter ? I have been considering one in case the processing of the avr screws up the picture.

An HDMI source doesn't get "processed' by the DCDI Edge. IOW, what goes IN via HDMI goes OUT via HDMI. See pg 34 of the Online Manual <- Link.

Only Component and Video sources can/will be "processed'.



.

This is true, but my players are the PS3 and my PC (which is using an HDMI 1.3 ATI card) and I really don't feel like hooking up another device. Plus, I've only got 4 HDMI slots which are already filled, too.

I ended up selling my STR-DN1000 for $200 and bought the 1010 for $300 online. Seemed like an easier and more "future-proof" solution for the time being.

I currently have my Sony 770 Blue Ray on component input to the DN1010, which is on HDMI to a Mitsubishi DLP TV. With Pandora streaming on the 770the video will cut out after about 8 min (audio on analog continues fine). To see where the problem is, I cycled each device seperatly, and it appears that the DN1010 just stops sending the video (even though auto standby is set to off). I am waiting on my HDMI cables to arrive (will update after they do), but I can't see what would cause this problem to begin with.

To random818 above, did "re-initializing the DN1010" fix the issue for your component inputs??

-Thanks

I needed a 7.1 channel AV receiver. I wanted to go wireless with my rear surround speakers. I wanted to add a low-cost (even if low quality) wireless speaker system in two other rooms. And I wanted the receiver to work with the HDMI-CED system in my Panasonic Plasma (its Viera Link). Because I watch broadcast TV and Panasonic's Viera-Cast for Netflix, I wanted an HDMI 1.4 compliant receiver so I could use the Audio Return Channel to pump the TV sound through the receiver.

Although not as highly rated as AV receivers in the same class, I went with the Sony STR-DN1010. First, I knew (from various postings on the web) that Sony's HDMI-CEC system Bravia Sync would work with my Panasonic Plasma and its Viera-Link system. While my Panasonic Plasma might work with any HDMI-CEC system, I could not confirm this through web postings, and I did not want to take the chance. Second, the Sony STR-DN1010 offered their S-Air technology. I was dubious of buying into a proprietary system. However, I liked the fact that this system did not require plugging a transmitter box with cables into the back of my receiver, and it was cost effective to wirelessly connect my rear speakers and to wirelessly connect two rooms ($34 for EZWT100 transmitter cartridge, $100 for S-Air WAHT-SA20 wireless rear amplifier , 2 x $60 for AIR-SA10 wireless speaker system = $254). Third, it was HDMI 1.4 compliant, so it offered Audio Return Channel capabilities. Finally, I was able to buy it at a decent discount ($370).

I am pleased with the sound the STR-DN1010 puts through my Energy Micro 5.1 Speakers. The Bravia Sync integrates flawlessly with my Panasonic Plasma's Viera Link. (It also integrates flawlessly with my new Sony BDP-S1000ES Blu Ray Player). It has enough power to drive my speakers. It has sufficient HDMI inputs to connect all my equipment. It has an easy-to-operate GIU and an easy-to-operate remote. I have not had any trouble with the STR-DN1010 losing its hand-shake with other equipment.

My experiences with the S-Air components are mixed. On the pro side: All S-Air components set up easily. The wireless rear amplifier (which is in the same room as the 1010 receiver) never loses its connection. On the con side: First, the wireless rear amplifier does not power my surround-sound speakers sufficiently; I have to use the manual speaker settings on the STR-DN1010 to crank up their volume. Second, the remote wireless speaker systems (AIR-SA10) in the other two rooms often drop their connections. I live in an 800 sqf apartment with woodframe plaster walls. You would think the system would be strong enough to deal with that. To make matters worse, for some reason the wireless rear amplifier required that I pair it with the STR-DN1010. Evidently, once you pair one wireless S-Air component, you have pair all of them. And this increased the regularity with which the two wireless speaker systems drop the signal. I would say: don't expect your S-Air to pass its signal through any walls.

UPDATE:
"re-initializing" (holding the power on button) the 1010 did not change the "time out" behavior for the BD input on component.

Changing to HDMI input cable DID FIX the time out issue above!!!
This however has the side effect of not displaying current input content on the TV during GUI menu mode, and no longer overlays the sound level bar.

NEW QUESTION:
Manual says that HDMI input #3 has some kind of superior audio quality???
I would have thought that ALL of the HDMI inputs are equally high quality.
Anyone have any insight as to what the deal is??
(why the *?/# wouldn't they have made the superior audio bus on Input #1?)

OVERALL:
So far I am well pleased with the DN1010. I like the overall clean look, and I am going with all HDMI in/out (Monoprice is the place for cheap high quality cables), which makes the set up easy, and remote control flows through the components pretty well. Not sure if I am alowed to say but at $320 delivered (The Nerds) it was a no brainer for me. The real fun is the Sony 770 Blue Ray which is WiFi enabled - the on-line A/V content is awsome. This is a whole new game for me :-)

i'm getting a samsung C8000 series 3d tv delivered this week. i have an old enty-level sony receiver currently hooked up to very cheap sony surround speakers. i have no problem with sony sound quality or power delivery.

the Sony STR-DN1010 seems like such an obvious choice for me as an upgrade, but i read so many sony-bashing comments that i'm a bit nervous.

- i need the 3d hdmi switching support.
- i like the auto-config with mic idea (alhtough i hear the denon's are much better)
- i need the audio-return-channel support for when i watch internet content with the tv as the source
- upconversion of component Wii connection
- onscreen gui display seems nicer than 2x2" menu screen
- wireless surround and 2nd zone support (which i may use in the future)

am i mistaken with any of the features i listed above?

and this sony is selling for near $300. seems like A LOT of features for the money. am i missing something? is this thing total garbage? i don't think i can find a denon or onkyo with all these features unless i'm willing to pay double? i'd prefer not to go the refurb route.

i was hoping this thread had more activity so i could hear more about it. has anyone happened to hook one of these up to a Samsung current generation 3d tv (ideally an 8000 series plasma)?

any comments appreciated. thanks

I just bought this receiver yesterday.... I'm in the process of setting up, and I will let you guys know my experience with it once I'm able to utilize it thoroughly.

I am no audiophile but this is how I would answer your questions based on my experience with my SONY STR-DN1010

- i need the 3d hdmi switching support. YES IT HAS IT
- i like the auto-config with mic idea (alhtough i hear the denon's are much better) YES BUT I AM NOT COMPLETELY HAPPY WITH IT'S CHOICES (E.G. TOO MUCH VOLUME IN CENTER SPEAKER)
- i need the audio-return-channel support for when i watch internet content with the tv as the source (YES YOU GET THIS. BE SURE TO USE THE RIGHT CATEGORY OF HDMI CABLE. REMEMBER THIS JUST SENDS THE TV AUDIO, NOT VIDEO, THROUGH THE AVR. HENCE YOU MAY NEED TO USE YOUR TV REMOTE, NOT THE AVR REMOTE, TO TOGGLE BETWEEN TV AS SOURCE AND A/V RECEIVER AS SOURCE)
- upconversion of component Wii connection (DON'T KNOW)
- onscreen gui display seems nicer than 2x2" menu screen (GUI IS EASY FOR FIXING SETTINGS, BUT NOT FOR MOVING BETWEEN COMPONENTS)
- wireless surround and 2nd zone support (which i may use in the future) (YES BUT SO FAR AS I CAN TELL 2ND ZONE SUPPORT ONLY THROUGH SONY PROPRIETARY S-AIR SYSTEM. OTHERWISE NO SEPARATE 2ND ZONE SUPPORT)

excellent feedback - thanks southinnyc and hpmoon.

i've been very close to ordering one of these sonys but i'm still holding off.

i watched some cnet review videos. it's funny, they don't really have much bad to say about it, but then they give it a relatively low score. i think they griped about sound quality (which i personally probably wouldn't notice) and 4-hdmi inputs. they claim "most competitors in this price range have 6". then i watched 5 cnet review videos of competitors and i think only 1 of them had 6 hdmi in's.

the pioneer competitor looked really nice (might have been the 1020) but i think it was lacking the audio-return-channel so it's out for me. the pioneer model above that looks awesome (1120) but is a bit more than i want to spend. i see the sony for just under $300 and the pioneer 1120 is just under $500. adding a $100 ipod adapter for the sony makes the prices closer between the two.

i dunno - if i didnt just spend so much on my new tv i would have bought something already... hard to commit to another $300-$500 purchase right at the moment.

Can anyone please confirm whether the DN1010 will upconvert component 1080p to HDMI?

Two Amazon reviewers of the DH810 report that it will not upconvert 1080p from an Xbox 360 to HDMI. The DH810 will only upconvert+upscale from component 480i (which is clearly not desirable to drop the 360 down to 480i only to upscale).

I have an older 360 with said component connection, and I'm trying to find a receiver to upconvert that to feed over a single HDMI cable to my new 55NX810.

I have a Sony PS-LX350H turntable, which does not have a built in phono preamp and thus outputs its signal with a grounding wire that needs to be attached to a grounding pin on the receiver, or to an external phono preamp.

Although the STR-DN1010's manual nowhere mentions it, I have spotted what looks like a grounding pin on the back of the receiver, in the Antenna section. It even has the grounding icon. What's the deal with this? Will it work with my turntable?

Or do I need to drop $50 or so at PhonoPreamp.com?

After having a horrendous set of experiences with not one, but THREE Pioneer VSX-1020-k's...i've sent them all back to Amazon, and purchased the STR-DN1010..and i'm hoping it's a good choice. At least it should play 'nice' with my KDL-52V5100...

I couldn't get any video or sound from HDMI on the pioneer...Amazon must have gotten a bad batch

So, I bought this on sale on Cyber-Monday for a steep discount. I can return it until January, and I probably will unless I can figure out some issues.

First, I can't configure the input organization in a sensical way. I have 4 HDMI devices, one of which (my Macbook Pro) can't do audio over HDMI but does have optical out. I also have an Airport Express with digital audio out. With 13 input labels on the remote, you'd think it'd be simple to find a good way to handle each. Except: BD, DVD, and SAT/CATV can handle HDMI video but NOT HDMI audio, while the HDMI-labeled inputs cannot be paired with optical audio under their own label. That is, I can't press the "HDMI 4" button and get HDMI 4's video with an optical input's audio. I also can't pless the SAT/CATV button and get HDMI 1's video and audio together. BEFORE YOU BUY THIS RECEIVER check the input assign chart on page 87 of the manual (available on Sony's site as PDF). All of this would be less of a problem if there were a way to cycle through inputs, with some disabled, and the real ability to name inputs (see below).

Also, since I've told it that SA-CD/CD has no video input ("NONE" in the input assign menu") when I switch to SA-CD/CD it gives me the video of the last video source. If there are no active HDMI sources, it sends no signal to the TV, which is a pain since it isn't smart enough to let me turn off just the TV when using that input. My temporary fix is to assign it to an analog vifdeo source so that it just sends a black screen to the TV. Still a waste of power, but at least I don't get mismatched video or a blue "No signal" screen. Same for the FM/AM tuner, although it just displays the barebones tuning interface on the TV. Forever.

While I'm (still) on the topic of inputs, let me point out that naming an input is pretty damned useless. Although you can type in a short ASCII name, that name will only appear in the on-screen GUI. It doesn't appear on the TV or receiver when switching between sources. Why bother naming an input if you'll never, ever see that name except for a deep submenu.

My second problem, which is actually my biggest dealbreaker, is that this receiver adds 40-50 ms of delay to the video. The receiver includes an audio sync feature so that you can re-sync (to the nearest 10ms), but for video gaming, this is horrible. I'd consider running the HDMI and Audio separately if not for the limited number of optical inputs and the need to then switch the video and audio separately.

The third problem, which is more of annoyance than a problem, is that this thing takes a very long time to start up (and switch inputs). My roommate couldn't figure it out while I was gone because the TV displayed "No input signal" for so long that he figured I hadn't hooked it up.

The fourth problem, also more of an annoyance than a problem, is that I can't playback the audio from multiple sources. This is a feature of analog receivers that you don't know you miss until it's gone. Gone is the ability to play music or listen to a sports game in the background while I game (unless I make my gaming machine handle the music as well, which is less-than-optimal). I guess this is due to the expense of including extra chips to decode multiple audio signals and mix them?


Note: For the second and third problem, I've tried to turn off every possible video processing feature I can, to no avail.

Any suggestions on how to fix/bypass some of these issues?

Looking around, a lot of annoyance seems to be common to modern digital receivers. At this point, I'm leaning towards returning this receiver (and the speakers I bought with it) and sticking the money in a savings account until I buy a newer TV that can output 5.1 over optical with a receiver that can mix just 2 optical inputs (the TV's output and the Airport Express's music).

FYI - It plays OK with my 46v5100. It transmits audio and video over HDMI to the TV, will auto on/off the receiver and TV together. The TV will not auto-switch speakers when the receiver is turned on/off, and you cannot access the the receiver's options through the TV's Bravia-Sync menu.

Wow...after your initial post...I'm not so sure I want THIS one either... Part of my problem is - i've been 'out-of-the-game' too long, and am unfamiliar with what connects where and how to get it all to work. The manuals *suck* for any of them. There are 2 possibilities with the Pioneer that I just failed with - either I missed something relatively fundamental..or all 3 were in fact messed up. I would, of course, prefer it to be the latter... Anyway, it should arrive tomorrow, so i'll know if I screwed up with the pioneers or not shortly. The one GOOD thing out of all of this is - I got Amazon to honor the price they had at the end of last month...which is about $130 less than it currently is, and $100 less than the 1020-k...now...if it only WORKS when it gets here...

My Sony arrived today, so I let it warm up a bit...then went to the wiring. It worked 1st time (unlike, unfortunately, the pioneer 1020's). My issues are - the switching time between HDMI inputs....and i'm barely getting any base from the subwoofer - everything is loudest from center speaker (I'm sure it's just a calibration thing...I hope...)...and I haven't yet figured out how to use the tv without the receiver being on.

I still like the 1020 better - with the exception that it didn't work..

I will say one thing - whichever AVR you purchase...banana plugs are definitely the way to go...mine aren't here yet....lol..but my fingers can't work those little knobbies...

I recently bought this receiver as well and It has worked out pretty well so far since I have a fairly small living room. I will try to address some of your issues below.


Yeah, it is a bit strange that you can't set the "non-HDMI" inputs to use HDMI audio. However, I don't think this is really that big of a deal since you can simply use the HDMI inputs and rename them. Also, as you said you can assign the other inputs to HDMI video and optical audio so that solves your problem with the Macbook Pro.


There is a way around this which may be a pain depending on how you look at it: Simply turn on the receiver first and don't turn on the TV. I have a Sony Bravia LCD with Bravia Sync enabled. If I turn on the TV it automatically turns on the receiver. If I then turn off the TV it automatically turns off the receiver as you said. The FM/AM tuner only displays the barebones tuning interface if you select it through the onscreen menu in GUI Mode. If you press the GUI MODE button again it will go away and you can listen to the radio while watching video from another source. If you select the FM/AM tuner using the TUNER button and bypass GUI mode you won't run into this problem.


This is absolutely incorrect. I have renamed my inputs and the names show up fine on the front of the receiver. One problem you may be running into is that if you select your input from the onscreen display in GUI mode the receiver will continue to display "GUI" on the front after the input has been selected. While "GUI" is displayed on the receiver you can't use the DISPLAY button to cycle through the various display options. You have to press the GUI MODE button again to get rid of this. Once this is turned off the DISPLAY button will work and you can cycle through the various options. Another way around this is to simply use the buttons on the remote to switch inputs and don't go through the onscreen menu.


I can't really comment on the delay issues as I haven't run into any lip sync issues. I'm a bit puzzled why you said you need to switch the audio and video separately since as noted above you can set some of the inputs to use HDMI video and optical audio.


Yeah, it can take a while but it doesn't really bother me since I'm not constantly switching inputs back and forth.


Interesting. I've never tried to mix audio channels together so to me this is a non-issue. Obviously you could still listen to a CD or the radio while a game is on the screen.

In case anybody else is interested, this receiver will overlay the on-screen menu for analog video sources (I've only tried with component). This means that it will also overlay the receiver volume indicator on the screen while you are watching TV. However, it will not overlay the on-screen menu for HDMI sources. There is a slight workaround through for displaying the volume onscreen with an HDMI source using Bravia Sync. In the receiver under "Settings" and "HDMI" set Audio Out to "AMP" to turn off the TV speakers. You can then change the remote to TV mode using the TV button next to the SHIFT button (not the TV source button). Once the remote is in TV mode you can change the volume and it will use the TV volume indicator on the screen. However, this will actually change the volume on the receiver since you have the audio set to "AMP". The only downside is the numbers for the volume level on the TV and the receiver don't match.

I have no problem auto switching the the speakers when the receiver is turned on/off. I have a 52EX700 and I turned on Control for HDMI in the TV and receiver settings and then enabled the receiver in the device list in my TV menu. I also have "Pass Through" set to AUTO in the receiver HDMI settings. I can simply turn off the receiver and the sound will automatically switch to my TV speakers. Likewise, it will switch back to my external speakers when I turn the receiver back on. Of course this only works for HDMI sources with "Pass Through" enabled on the receiver, but I always listen through my external speakers anyway.

I am hoping somebody has a solution to my problem. I used to be able to watch shows from my PC directly on my Vizio before I bought the Sony AVR.

With the Sony AVR connected to the Vizio , I have lost the ability to hear sound from my PC through the TV speakers ! I can only get the sound through the speakers connected through the AVR.

Here are my connections

Sony AVR HDMI Out > Vizio HDMI In
PC DVI Out ( video only) > HDMI adapter > HDMI In of Sony AVR
PC Audio Out (analog) > Audio In on Sony AVR

I cannot get the sound coming from the PC through my Vizio TV speakers because Sony does not convert the analog audio to digital and output it through the HDMI TV out.

The sound is available through the speakers connected directly to the receiver.

If I connect the PC DVI and audio out directly to the Vizio , I can get both picture and sound.

Sony support suggested running direct HDMI and analog cable from PC to Vizio.That would mean running 2 HDMI cables to the Vizio which I want to avoid if possible.

Any workaround suggestions would be helpful.

Has anyone had trouble getting a subwoofer to work with this AVR? I cannibalized my HTIB (I know, don't judge..) and am attempting to use a Samsung Sub that has two inputs (R/L on each)...I have the wires terminated on Male RCA Plugs, going into a 2-into-1 splitter...that then goes to Audio OUT on the 1010...and...NO sound. Doesn't matter what the speaker config or anything else.

I'll probably end up blowing the $100+ that I saved on the receiver on a new Sub...unless someone can show me the err of my ways...

Update: Ok...mine was not a powered sub...so..no workie. Have a Sony on the way from Amazon...should set me straight...