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3D Shutter DLP Glasses: REVIEWS? - Page 8

post #211 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin View Post

Just curious... is your emitter connected to the adapter, or to the TV?

I use the Panny 300's checkerboard output, rather than running it through the adapter, so I have the emitter connected to the TV.
post #212 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin View Post

Just curious... is your emitter connected to the adapter, or to the TV?

I may connect it to the adapter to test if the emitter sync gets flipped. Considering I see rainbows with both models of dlp link glasses I've tried, I have no use for getting the optomas or x102s to sync with the mits glasses anyway but might be useful info for other people.
post #213 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

I may connect it to the adapter to test if the emitter sync gets flipped. Considering I see rainbows with both models of dlp link glasses I've tried, I have no use for getting the optomas or x102s to sync with the mits glasses anyway but might be useful info for other people.

connecting emitter to the adapter (with adapter to emitter out on TV) did not flip the sync order. still need standard sync for mits glasses.
post #214 of 517
got a response from MDEA about rainbows. They are apparently now as aware of this as we are. They can a boilerplate respose about the normal dlp rainbow effect, and then added on that this rainbow effect can be worsened for some people in 3D due to the checkerboard.

So, they are probably not going to address the issue. My bigger concern now is getting rid of the DLP link haze seen through my mits emitter-based glasses. We'll see what MDEA says about that.

I'm hoping someone can confirm that using the emitter connected to the adapter alleviates the haze.

At the end of the day, if they ignore the rainbow issue and/or they ignore the DLP link haze seen through the mits glasses in some models of TVs, there may be enough fodder there to take legal action as a class of plaintiffs.
post #215 of 517
Thread Starter 
Can anyone here PLEASE tell me IF they use and like the OPTOMA ZD101 DLP Glasses?
I did not like my XpanD 102s and returned them - now looking to try another brand.....BUT trying to find any reviews of DLP Glasses is like looking for "hen's teeth".

TKS michael

PS: My TV is a Samsung HDTV LED DLP 61A750.
post #216 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberized View Post

Can anyone here PLEASE tell me IF they use and like the OPTOMA ZD101 DLP Glasses?
I did not like my XpanD 102s and returned them - now looking to try another brand.....BUT trying to find any reviews of DLP Glasses is like looking for "hen's teeth".

TKS michael

I've left several posts about my experience with them so take a look at those.

In summary, best PQ I've seen yet, eliminates the dlp-link haze of 3D mode, dark blacks, some brightness is lost but that happens with any glasses, never loses sync.

However, the frames are clunky, weight is similar to x102s, won't fit kids because ear pieces are too far apart, and they reveal the polarization rainbows IF your TV creates them (not all do). Also, they sync in reverse like x102s (I think all DLP link may do this because I think they are designed more for front projection than rear projection), and so therefore they won't work properly at the same time as the mits and samsung glasses which sync in the normal setting.
post #217 of 517
They should build the "reverse" mode into the glasses instead of the display. This would eliminate the problem of using different brands.
post #218 of 517
For those of you who have complained about the comfort of the Xpand X102's...this looks interesting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320571947192
post #219 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by taz291819 View Post

They should build the "reverse" mode into the glasses instead of the display. This would eliminate the problem of using different brands.

agreed. I asked optoma if there was a way and they gave me a canned answer about switching the setting in their projector.

There may be a relatively easy way to reverse in the glasses if you are willing to crack them open and see the wiring. Since I needed to return both x102s and optomas due to the polarization rainbows, I didn't take that step.
post #220 of 517
Thread Starter 
When some of you refer to making settings of "reverse" or "standard" to change the peroofrmance of certain glasses......where and on what are you making these changes? I have a Samsung HL 61A750 and as far as I know I have NEVER seen these "options"???

PS - Would the choice of Mode 1 OR Mode 2 with my HDTV be the same?

TKS michael
post #221 of 517
I am unable to access your TV's user manual. In it probably in a section about 3D or Emitters it will say how to switch from Normal or Standard to Reverse to not get Cross-eye images on your screen.
post #222 of 517
yes mode 1 and mode 2 are the same option being discussed.
post #223 of 517
Good to know about Mode1:2 = Normal:Reverse
post #224 of 517
At last a decent thread dedicated to shutter glasses. Thanks for all the info. My five cents to this discussion:

Integrated cards do not have the power to display 3D properly. And specially the laptop integrated cards. Forget about Intel GMA45, X3100, 4500 MHD or even the new Intel HD. Ditto for the ATI HD 3200 or HD 4200 cards. They all do not have the power to process game graphics or Blu Ray, AND the more GPU intensive 3D display at the same time. You need a discrete card. The most basic Nvidia card capable of some 3D is the 8600 GT, then the 8800 GT and then the 200 GT, 300 GT, 500 GT series cards. The most basic ATI card is the HD 2600, then the HD 2900, the HD 3870 and then the HD 4600, HD 4800, HD 5000 series cards. Dual SLI or crossfire setups are most likely to be capable of 3D gaming. Same for laptop 3D (newest ATI 5000 series cards are your best price performance ratio bet there). Minimum of 512MB dedicated video ram on the card.

I have been waiting for the Viewsonic's PGD-150 shutter glasses since May. I finally decided to contact Viewsonic directly on 8/3 and they said they would be available in "two weeks", so that would be 8/17. I hope they do not break as easily as the Optoma's, they look almost exactly the same.
post #225 of 517
I think the Viewsonic and Optoma glasses are the same, with different branding. Just hot the Mitsubishi and Samsung glasses are basically the same.
post #226 of 517
I noticed two other members in this thread posting the concern re: red spotting in the lenses (while active) which was never addressed. Just received my 102's today and my right lens is very spotty with minimal spotting in the left lens. My internal tag indicates the SUD batch. Anyone else to relate to this? Impact on viewing experience?
post #227 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by knurled View Post

I noticed two other members in this thread posting the concern re: red spotting in the lenses (while active) which was never addressed. Just received my 102's today and my right lens is very spotty with minimal spotting in the left lens. My internal tag indicates the SUD batch. Anyone else to relate to this? Impact on viewing experience?

Common--no impact on viewing.
post #228 of 517
It's in the manual, page 13
XpanD DLP® Link™ 3D Glasses Model No X102
FAQ

When the glasses are off, why are there spots on the lenses?
Spots on the lenses are a normal operation of liquid crystal.
post #229 of 517
Hmm, my x102 manual does not even have 13 pages. My issue is when the glasses are active. Guess I'll have to wait until my disc about falling meatballs arrives.
post #230 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by knurled View Post

Hmm, my x102 manual does not even have 13 pages. My issue is when the glasses are active. Guess I'll have to wait until my disc about falling meatballs arrives.

http://www.tru3d.com/stage/uploads/d...-BW-4x6_v4.pdf
post #231 of 517
Thank-you DenisG.
post #232 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by knurled View Post

Thank-you DenisG.

When I first saw the spots on mine I was a little freaked out about it myself at first.
post #233 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHawks View Post

For those of you who have complained about the comfort of the Xpand X102's...this looks interesting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320571947192

Those went for some ridiculous amount of money.
I emailed XpanD and they do in fact make the nose pieces. I am now waiting to see about how I go about ordering some.
Oh, and they sent pic's of them.
LL
LL
LL
LL
post #234 of 517
So has anybody ordered batteries for the X102's from Xpand successfully? My first battery is dead after just a few hours (power off did not work correctly?), and when I try to order with Firefox or IE at their website, it complains about me not putting in a phone number that there is no field for. First the battery pricing is lame, then the order system is junk. Nice.
post #235 of 517
Have you tried tru3d.com?
post #236 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by turls View Post

So has anybody ordered batteries for the X102's from Xpand successfully? My first battery is dead after just a few hours (power off did not work correctly?), and when I try to order with Firefox or IE at their website, it complains about me not putting in a phone number that there is no field for. First the battery pricing is lame, then the order system is junk. Nice.

The same thing happened to me - battery crapped out after about 5 hours use. I couldn't find the batteries for sale anywhere except from XpanD so I ordered two ten packs due to the high cost of shipping one ten pack. Additional shipping for the second ten pack was $1.99.

No matter how you cut it, the battery cost is exorbitant and it looks like the cost of operating my 2 pairs of X102s is going to be high. Any additional glasses will be Optomas (I have one pair [relatively inexpensive] on order at the present time).

Buzz
post #237 of 517
Thread Starter 
As per Thread Subject: A REVIEW!

I just replaced my XPAND 102suds, which flickered alot and also went bright and then dark every so often.........with a pair of OPTOMA Glasses, they arrived yesterday and they operate like I expected the XpanD's to operate...NO flicker...smooth as Silk....and I find them to fit and feel much better over my perscription glasses. Also - with them you can by replacement batteries anywhere you are not FORCED to purchase custom made ones made by/for XpanD. Some have said that the Optomas' are not sturdy....I find that an ODD complaint - they seem just as stout or more so than the XpanDs.
post #238 of 517
Glad to see more feedback concerning the different 3d glasses that are currently available. After doing a lot of research, I'm unfortunately still stuck between the Mistubishi glasses (that come with the starter kit) and the Optoma glasses. I like that you can replace the batteries on the Optoma glasses fairly easily, but am now wondering which one has the better 3d image? Last I read, when using the Mistu 3d glasses, there were known issues with the 3d picture quality when using a Mitsu DLP from 2009 prior. If that's the case, would that mean at this point in time, can we definitively say that the Optomas would be my best best?

Since I have a Mitsubishi 70c9, I would really appreciate it if someone could give me their honest recommendation between the two that I'm stuck between. I'm going to be ordering at least 4 pairs of glasses to be used by adults, so I want to make sure I end up with the right ones from the get-go.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. Been wanting to pull the trigger for a while now, but want to make sure I'm now going to misspend hundreds of dollars...
post #239 of 517
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robness Monster View Post

Glad to see more feedback concerning the different 3d glasses that are currently available. After doing a lot of research, I'm unfortunately still stuck between the Mistubishi glasses (that come with the starter kit) and the Optoma glasses. I like that you can replace the batteries on the Optoma glasses fairly easily, but am now wondering which one has the better 3d image? Last I read, when using the Mistu 3d glasses, there were known issues with the 3d picture quality when using a Mitsu DLP from 2009 prior. If that's the case, would that mean at this point in time, can we definitively say that the Optomas would be my best best?

Since I have a Mitsubishi 70c9, I would really appreciate it if someone could give me their honest recommendation between the two that I'm stuck between. I'm going to be ordering at least 4 pairs of glasses to be used by adults, so I want to make sure I end up with the right ones from the get-go.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. Been wanting to pull the trigger for a while now, but want to make sure I'm now going to misspend hundreds of dollars...

I have a Mits 73C9 and preferred the X102s (have prescription glasses) over the Mits kit glasses. I liked the fit better, and they seemed to let less light in. I've never had a problem with flickering, rainbows, ghosting, or loss of sync with any of my 4 pairs of x102s (SUD models I believe).
post #240 of 517
I ordered two pairs from Projectorzone.com for $81 each and paid for the 2 day shipping and then came on time. Initial impression is they are pretty solid but a little on the heavy side. They came packaged in a sturdy box and came with 3 nose sizes.

As for the comfort level, they feel a little heavy, and for my big head they were tight just above the ears. I tried all three nose pieces and couldn't really get comfortable with any of them. I finally settled on the medium sized one. Hopefully they will break in over time and get looser on my head.
I am using these glasses with a Mits 60C9.

As for the performance of the glasses, all I can say is wow. I was shocked at how well the 3D picture looked on the demo disk for the Panny 300, and Cloudy w a chance of meatballs.

The teal color of 3d mode disappeared, and the blacks were perfect, the colors were bright, and i didn't notice hardly any brightness loss. I think I saw a little bit of rainbows on the brighter grand canyon scene, but it didn't bother me and was only there for a little bit on the screen. So far, I am happy with these glasses other than being a little tight on my head.
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