Originally Posted by penngray
Well, I own many drivers TC sound drivers, AE drivers and I own those so called Fi Q18 drivers you think are crap. I bought some of the first Q18s that Scott modified for IB installs through discussion on the cult. Lets just say you are posting subjective babble more then you are posting real audiability facts. MY conclusions are that the Q18s are just fine for high fidelity...they are accurate which is the simple requirement for high fidelity.
No, they're not, from my experience with the regular Q18's. I had one to "tide me over" while my Avalanche 18 was being reconed by Scott, and it was clearly worse, and clearly just a boom-box compared to the vented JBL 2235H's and PR Peerless XLS12's I was running in a different system at the time. (The Ava18 itself, due to the lack of shorting rings and high inductance, isn't a high-fidelity driver except in the extreme ULF. With that high inductance, it just sounds wrong in the upper bass, even after EQ to flatten the FR. That was obvious to me when I replaced the Ava18 with a Maelstrom-X. Unless the I-B Q18's have something different from the standard one besides just a weaker motor, I don't see any reason to expect them to sound different from all the other high-inductance no-shorting-ring drivers out there, like the Q18.
Fine for sub 30Hz or something, sure, but not in the in the upper bass. If the TC woofer you're discussing is a TC3000, your comparison makes some sense as that's not a high-fidelity woofer for anything but extreme ULF either due to its extremely high inductance.
Originally Posted by penngray
Ever system has a compromises and goals. If its okay with you I think we can all choose what we want. If you want to get into slamming what others own so be...post your incredible setup and HT room so we can all admire it
For subs? In the main-system, a four-sub array using Dr. Geddes' placement principles, with two levels of EQ: MultEQ XT (from a Denon 4308) and a Velo SMS-1. They're all actually prefab right now, because I could not build more attractive subs for the price and despite their dodgy parentage they are absolutely top-shelf.
The ULF sub is a M-Design Eleganza Godfather
for ULF, which is a beautiful cherry-and-black large pie-wedge-shaped vented cabinet containing an ([url=http://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=81Aura
NS15-992-4A[/url] and an OEM variant of the Dayton "1kW" Class G plate amp. Yes, I know M-Design was a Monster Cable brand. That parentage makes their high quality, high value even at MSRP (considering parts cost and the cost of commissioning similarly-high-quality woodwork), and basically nonexistent marketing all the more puzzling. Fortunately, Monster had already likely lost money on them before I bought them.
The floor-mounted BB subs are twin M-Design Eleganza Bellas (see picture, supra) with the ports plugged. They have an Aura NS12-794-4A
powered by a "500W" Class G amp that's not sold to hobbyists so far as I know. (Not that it matters. It's just an amp.)
The high-mounted sub is, for a little bit longer at least, a Morel SoundSub 9,
picked for aesthetics more than anything else. The port is stuffed. It is soon to be replaced by an Aura NS10-794-4A
. I'm currently working on the design for an interestingly-shaped CNC'ed cabinet of about 12L. The new sub will be powered by probably that new Peavey Class D amp. Or the below-mentioned Dayton amp.
The nearfield system sub is a 120L sealed Maelstrom-X mk. I (cabinet by Elemental Designs) EQ'ed with MultEQ XT (Denon 3808) and powered by a Dayton "1kW" rack amp. That sub is soon to be out, too, replaced with an Aura NS18-992-4A.
I honestly don't expect the Aura to sound much if any different from the Mael-X, but they look better and I love the elegant design of Aura's NRT motor. I might go back to a Crown XTi2000 with the Aura, even though its silver finish doesn't look very good next to my other gear.